BA wagon turbo conversion using ford parts

[Tocchi]

Ute exhaust way different. Front half of exhaust fits wagon. Rear section doesn't (sedan or ute)

 

On 16/05/2017 at 7:26 PM, Ralph Wiggum said:

that's wagon is a pos and the owners a jerk when hes been drinking

lol you're way off the mark, I'm a jerk when sober too

[Lunchietey]

3 hours ago, Tocchi said:

Ute exhaust way different. Front half of exhaust fits wagon. Rear section doesn't (sedan or ute)

 

This is good info, at least I know aftermarket dump pipes etc fit. Then it's just a custom cat back for the rest which is easy.

 

Picking up the wagon(140k on clock) in half an hour.

 

18" snowflakes tomorrow

 

Friday full polish and service(all fluids and filters Inc cabin filter and K&N for airbox) and fit trans cooler(bypass radiator)

 

Gearbox full flush and filter Monday. New O2 sensor coming(just to be sure for tuning).

 

Bigger snorkel as soon as I find one(turbo gear may come with it) and just trying to find a set of XR6T calipers from an FG and I'll get some new slotted rotors etc sorted.

 

Next week will be full lovells lowering job(just sports low) and new bushes etc and then full tint(35% front doors and 20% for the rest)

 

Inbetween will be replacing all speakers and some light sound deadening.

 

AFTER I'm confident the car is safe and running well and will survive dyno time I'll start the conversion.

 

Edited 17/05/17 08:27 AM by Lunchietey

[Tocchi]

Not even cat back. Up to the diff, the sedan fits.
I'm running FG sedan cat to diff section.
Running FG as I'm running FG manifold, turbo, dump elbow, dump, cat etc
 
140km is nothing
 
Snowflakes will fresh up its appearance. But beware the rears will look tubbed as a result haha. Big guards.
 
Good idea re: trans cooler, put a fan on it if you can.
 
 
I think the calipers mount differently from BF to FG so try to find some BF 322mm fronts
 



Honestly you don't need to worry so much about the car surviving. They are tanks (touch wood), mine keeps going fine and I have zero concerns about it. Note I do treat it with respect and stuff, just no love.

My advice, as cool as doing FG intake/exhaust manifolds are, it would have been far easier, quicker and cheaper keeping it B series spec turbo install

Good luck

[Lunchietey]

Do snowflakes look odd on a wagon? I like the style(had similar 18" rims on my Ecoboost Mondeo Titanium before I sold it) . Missus is a bit grumpy I'm already starting the mods on the first day haha but she doesn't complain about driving around in my lifted and decked out FJ Cruiser as her daily...

 

I just want this car to look tidy and not draw attention. Was considering stanced rims or getting a custom offset but that seems to be a red flag to the boys in blue around here. Keeping it OEM seems like a good idea to me.

 

Ironically I bought the car off of a detective working at state crime level! It has only 140k but has lots of the usual issues(key barrel spring, one door actuator snapped, headlights need a polish, and is throwing a rich bank 1 code which hopefully I can sort with a new O2 sensor,temp sensor and new filters and some injector cleaner with a tank or two of ultimate 98).

 

When I say I want it all sorted it's more to do with the chassis and handling to deal with the extra power. I'd rather not have it sh*t itself at the dyno either or have inadequate brakes etc. I'm a big fan of balance with a car. My RX8 for example handles like a go cart with perfect 50/50 weight distribution has big brakes and 0-100 in 6.2. 

 

I had read FG calipers fit but just need to be swapped sides but I have just noticed the car I'm taking the turbo from is a BF so hopefully it has the different calipers. I'll get new rotors and pads.

[Lunchietey]

Ok. 

 

So I have the car, the turbo set up and lots of bits to go on(big pile of boxes much to the other half's amusement....)

 

Now I'm getting to some more technical choices.

 

I have REALISTIC expectations for this wagon and won't be going down the "I need 700atw" path.

 

I aim to run 7-8 psi or so using stock XR6T gear on the NA motor with a TUNED Na ecu. Will now be using stock XR6T exhaust inc cat with last section custom into a single 3".

 

My next "issue" is deciding on a reliable way to control boost and factoring in that it is a BTR NA drivetrain(oh and I have a 3.23 LSD about to go in)

 

Am I crazy to run ONLY a wastegate? Specifically the Turbo smart IWG with 7 psi(maybe 8 psi )preset?

 

My reasoning is that firstly I don't need an Eboost on the dash(stealthy)

 

Secondly the lazier boost coming on a bit slower may actually HELP the gearbox out and also the likely drop in upper boost from the stock XR6T cat restriction will limit total horsepower. Counteract that with the higher compression should mean a reasonably torquey and slightly lazy setup? I'm mainly looking for 2500-5000 torque and stock below that.

 

It also significantly simplifies the setup and the Turbo smart IWG is adjustable if I want more and I can still add an EBOOST later.

 

Thoughts?

 

Here's a pic of the Wagon just because (it's dirty and has lots more to do)

Edited 08/06/17 03:22 AM by Lunchietey

[NathanB]

Clean

[Ralph Wiggum]

You wastegate plan will work fine. 

You'll be able to fiddle with preload to get your desired boost. 

 

But you'll be balancing a boost spike around 3500 against the boost coming on veeeeeery lazy and dropping off up top. 

[Lunchietey]

Cheers, just want it clean and simple 

 

So what would cause the boost spike Mr Wiggum?  And how does an electronic controller stop that vs a gate only? As far as I was aware an EBOOST can only prevent a wastegate opening, not open it up any faster?

 

Or is it the Turbo smart IWG that causes a spike?

 

Oh I should mention the turbo has the flapper mod already.

 

What (else) can I do to prevent the spike? Was hoping the OEM exhaust would keep the spikes down a bit(from what I read most people only get it AFTER going high flow?)

 

I'm fine with a bit of extra lag, a bit of boost creep and also the drop at the top as I'm boosting for torque (pulling power, highway kickdown) 

Edited 08/06/17 07:12 AM by Lunchietey

[Ralph Wiggum]

Engine hits peak ve around that rpm and that combined with stock hardware accounts for the spike.

 

 

Most decent boost controls have rpm based set point mapping so the duty cycle on the gate solenoid can be altered around peak ve to prevent the spike. 

 

Your setup will really be a case of suck it and see. 

 

The ts actuaries have move mass internally than a stock can, so while this helps smooth the boost curve they are sensitive to preload and will spike more readily if not setup properly. 

 

But it's hard to say what properly will be in your case. 

 

Who's tuning the car? 

[Lunchietey]

What I don't understand is how a boost controller stops spiking? If a wastegate can't open fast enough to stop the spike, how does something BLOCKING the wastegate reference help it open faster?

 

According to just about everything I can find, an electronic controller is actually RESPONSIBLE for boost spiking so having a wastegate only should minimise is and boost should come on slowly and progressively according to boost controller manufacturers?

 

I think a restrictive (stock) XR6T exhaust a NO boost controller should be fine now I've spent half the day reading up on it 

 

As far as tuning, there are 2 on my list. A local tuner(Kwinana performance) or Extreme Ford Tuning although they haven't exactly been helpful and seem rather full of themselves. Initially they were good but after 2 emails asking to confirm a few things before I trailer the car 60km to them they just can't be added replying to questions that would ensure they could tune the car without wasting their time.

Edited 08/06/17 12:34 PM by Lunchietey