Which model ute to buy BF or FG

[Oracle1]

Hi all,

 

thanks in advance for any and all help. I have done a lot of reading in the past few days of various conversion threads trying to find out as much info as possible re the differences between the BF and the FG models. Call me crazy but at 45 I am having a little bit of a mid life crisis and I want a fast ute, again. I've built a few fast cars but of late most of my time has been spent in late model turbo diesels and I haven't bothered to keep up with the models and what part fits what. I have owned and run falcon sixes and eights but not for many years. I have also done some unusual conversions so I have some experience and I can also paint. I am looking around ATM at BF and FG utes and I was hoping to ask the differences between the two and what to watch out for in features with regard to the following criteria.

 

This is a basic outline of what I want to achieve as the end product,

 

1. Max price for donor car 12000 before mods and a One Tonner Cab Chassis with alloy tray approx 2005 - 2010.

 

2. The car will be LPG.

 

3. Will try and get as much life out of a four speed auto as I can and may even stay with a modified 4 speed auto as a final gear box but would actively seek a six speed conversion if it can be done.

 

(I know how to nurse machinery my machines die prolonged slow deaths)

 

4. Would like to turbo it, to take advantage of LPG high octane ratio (liquid) looking for torque and fuel economy (did dedicated LPG engines have higher comp ratios, can ECU be remapped?).

 

5. Have read the threads about  FG being much nicer to drive than BF but go fast gear being easier to get for the BF. I am getting older and I would like a bit more refinement which is why I would possibly put up with a few more difficulties with converting the FG to go fast gear. BUT does it make any difference in the One Tonners?

 

6. How have the bodies of the FG and BF aged over time with regards interior build rattles etc and overall structural integrity?

 

7. Any other catches or gotchas that come to mind.

 

I say in advance that I have read so many times just go out and buy X instead. Over the years I have scrounged and overhauled and I understand exactly how painful it is to do a build and can understand this argument. But in this case I am looking to build something unique and so buying X instead really doesn't help me. Besides that I like being the last person to put something back together and I get to choose the exact part I want. The models mentioned previous are at a stage in the life cycle that parts are now cheap and I may buy wrecks for parts if I have to.

 

 

your thoughts people?

[k31th]

If you want the refinement, buy an FG turbo ute (with or without tray already), source the one-tonner suspension/rear-end (source/build a tray if necessary) and fit suspension/rear-end/tray and then convert it to Dual Fuel or LPG only, tune it up on DF/LPG etc and go nuts!

 

6-speed conversion will be difficult. But do-able with many more headaches

 

 

Good luck with everything and keep us updated as I'd love to see how this sort of custom build goes

[skidxr6t]

4 hours ago, Oracle1 said:

7. Any other catches or gotchas that come to mind.

I would source a FG turbo engine with lowish kms if I was you man.

 

the 4 speed auto is crap, when you say 6 speed conversion, auto or manual?

[BAXRTUTE]

This could be very interesting to see unfold!

 

Firstly the B series to F series utes are the same chassis just newer shell, I personally like the lines on the B series over the F also.

@MattyP has done a heap of research on a lpg setup and may have some helpful hints for u.

 

The fg is nicer(  kinda ) inside but really in the utes unless fpv spec it aint much better tbh.

 

If I was to look into something like this id start with a xt lpg tonna and buy a write off fpv ute and transfer the inside over to it and as much of the goodies outside as possible... body kit zorst system turbo and housing, cooler or upgrade it. Sell the fpv engine ( 3ish K ) as it will help to pay for your own goals.

 

This would be a massive long journey to take but with your own vison and hands on approach it would be a very satisfying one.

 

Best of luck with it mate and PLEASE STAY AROUND AND LOG A THREAD TO SHARE WITH US

[OZYWALKER]

Ditch the LPG idea. Will set you back way too much for a capable LPG system ($10k area).

There's a guy on here rarely and often on AFF, GAZ084 who has done a supercharged BA xr6. Spent big $$$ on the LPG and ended up going to a factory petrol tank setup all with aftermarket options xr6ts use.

To save the $$$ is go bf mk2 xr6t.

There's no such thing as a 1 tonne falcon they were all dealer options that may have included uprated leaf springs. But I wouldn't want to be throwing weight in an xr ute, they have a max payload of 440kg setup as factory.
Also keep in mind most alloy trays weigh around 100kg depending on extras. The tub body weighs more so will aid in traction.

[BAXRTUTE]

Mine is 680kg load rated. First owner was Lewis speed boats so they may of had upgraded springs as it towed new boats for a living

[OZYWALKER]

Could be an fg at 440kg vs bf ???.

I reckon the B series are built tougher than the FG, would make sense as the fg has a higher ancap rating so it crushes easier.

[BAXRTUTE]

Mite be right there Dan! I not to sure.

Ive had 600kg of glue in the back of mine and she was soo smooth on the road over the normal bouncy crap when empty.

 

Trays are wider so could u fit a 345 tyre or something on it? Would look tough as fark

[OZYWALKER]

Trays are narrower than the tub, they stay the same width as the cab whereas the tub widens towards the wheel wells.
I tried my 295/35r18 on the work ute (fg with alloy tray) and they poked out past the tray, would say 275 maybe 285 with the right offsets but it would probably still rub.

[Oracle1]

Hi all and thanks for the advice,

 

I am currently sniffing around a 2008 Falcon Cab Chassis R6 FG Auto White in color (my fav) factory mags very nice looking car with tinted windows one owner 140000 km for 10 grand. Can anyone tell me the if the R6 options may have included the heavier suspension. Any other nice bits that come with R6 lol? I am sure he said to me it did have heavy suspension.

 

12 hours ago, skidxr6t said:

the 4 speed auto is crap, when you say 6 speed conversion, auto or manual?

 

Re:  Questions on transmission definitely 6 Speed Manual  I like the idea of a 6 speed auto but it seems overly complex and expensive for my taste in that area. A six speed manual would be awesome but for towing in some instances the auto would be nicer. I much prefer a manual box overall though. Studying up on the T56 now.

 

12 hours ago, BAXRTUTE said:

Firstly the B series to F series utes are the same chassis just newer shell, I personally like the lines on the B series over the F also.

@MattyP has done a heap of research on a lpg setup and may have some helpful hints for u.

 

How do they differ in the front suspension, do they share the same front end? Would love to talk to Matt about what he has tried.

 

12 hours ago, k31th said:

If you want the refinement, buy an FG turbo ute (with or without tray already), source the one-tonner suspension/rear-end (source/build a tray if necessary) and fit suspension/rear-end/tray and then convert it to Dual Fuel or LPG only, tune it up on DF/LPG etc and go nuts!

 

I have found a nice FG ute already set up with exclusive gas but minus the hairdryer. Its about the body my friend and a good body is hard to find. Swapping hard bits in and out is easy, a very nice paint job not so easy.

 

11 hours ago, OZYWALKER said:

Ditch the LPG idea. Will set you back way too much for a capable LPG system ($10k area).

 

Respect what your saying re feeding a turbine but I have a little experience in this area I am an aircraft mechanic with a background in turbo piston twins and PT6 gas turbine. This machine is not about outright power. That is too easy anybody can make power, but you must also do it with longevity and efficiency.  I am aiming for around 250-280 kw at the flywheel on gas and would be more than happy with these numbers. I am really looking for driveability and torque. I am getting old crew I am a bit of a fossil. The main aim of the game is an efficient road going ute that I can move myself about in cheaply.

 

 LPG has some definite advantages among them a high octane rating meaning I can compress it more in a stock engine, its a little help with the usual higher compression ratio in N/A engines. LPG is a very clean fuel also. This is why I was wondering if anyone had some info on how the exclusive gas engines differed, if they had bumped up the compression to suit gas and hardened the valves. This is the challenge for me. If it all goes bad there are still reliable diaphragm mixers that will feed an engine very efficiently if it tends to sit at one RPM like mine do. Also a good mate of mine is a gas fitter so I have a signature and he trusts my work.

 

Re supercharging yes it produces good numbers no doubt about it (have studied this kit yesterday) but it draws shaft horsepower from the crankshaft unlike a turbo which scavenges energy from the heat of expanding exhaust gases. I want thermal efficiency up with higher compression from turbo and gas, intercooler, coolant effect of liquid gas expansion in the inlet tubes. Hell I may cut loose with some water meth under hi boost ( I jest of course )