Diy Tuning

[turbotrana]

You don't even need an inlet air temp sensor. I used to tune aftermarket engine management systems without it connected and it was fine. My Fg will run fine with the Tmap sensor completely disconnected. I think it just defaults to a certain inlet air temp. Its does a little protection and adjusts fuel a little for IAtemp and helps with extremes of hot and cold but you can do without. I am not sure how that secondary map sensor works into the tune but it does not affect the running much from what I remember.

[ratter]

to have a tune that is "safe" without the air intake sensor input, you will be lacking power in other temperature ranges

[rollex]

My old skyline didn't have one however it used a flap MAF air meter so it could meter air effectively. You did have to tune it in the hottest weather you would drive it in to be sure it wouldn't ping though, pulling timing on coolant temp helped but would have been better with proper IAT.

Edited 29/08/15 11:35 AM by rollex

[IH8TOADS]

The cars runs fine with the t-MAP disconnected!?

The pre-throttle body boost sensor is for the closed loop boost control system. I.e you desired boost table. If the car is tuned in open loop it will be useless. You can use it to measure boost by logging boost error and desired boost though.

[rollex]

Ok so how do you guys detect knock,do you simply look at the spark adder and if it is pulling timing you assume it is knocking?

Have any of you bought knock detection set-ups or just used primitive microphone and ear phone set-ups?

Is simply logging the spark adder a safe enough way to tune these cars?

Edited 13/09/15 12:22 AM by rollex

[rollex]

Double post

Edited 13/09/15 12:20 AM by rollex

[JETURBO]

There's only one way to accurately detect knock on any car when tuning

What do u think this is ?

I use the same method on skylines and falcons

Since your a skyline tuner I assume u already know this answer?

Edited 13/09/15 01:13 AM by Womend Bellbat

[rollex]

Obviously proper knock ears are the way to go, what I was asking is can you get a good indication from the stock system and do many people rely on using it?

[JETURBO]

The standard system has phantom knock all over the place

For correct tuning a calibrated aftermarket system is always recommend

A keen tuner will be able to see tell tail signs on a dyno but again this is an after the fact display

[rollex]

From what I've been reading a lot of people rave about the plastic tube connected to ear protectors which gets the sound from a crimped piece of copper pipe bolted to the fuel rail/block.

I've only ever used headphones with a microphone (I always borrowed them and no longer have access) which worked well but they were a crude home setup. Would run the sound into a laptop and do a fast fourier transform to pin point knock and adjust a DIY filter to that frequency though most of the time simply listening to the audio was good enough.

Anyone here ever used the plastic tube and ear protector setup? I've seen lots of anedoctal reports saying they give better results than a lot of electronic setups, obviously it makes it harder to log as you have to guess where you heard the knock though.

Also I picked up a WBO2 2J9 wideband kit with a 4.9 bosch sensor. What do people recommend to avoid noise when installing a permanent wideband? I'm thinking I'll get power from the aux audio plug behind the fuse box (blue plug) and use the ground supplied with the plug and also bolt the ground to the floor. For the narrowband simulation (if I ever play with it) I'll use a separate ground from the ECU for those two pins.

Also to feed the new wideband through the firewall is going behind the inner guard and one of those grommets the best place or is there a better grommet to use in the engine bay, lots of people seem to use the manual clutch point but I have a manual so that is out.

Recommendations?

Edited 19/09/15 01:37 AM by rollex