Jump to content

F6X (Fpv66X)


xr6bfv

Recommended Posts

  • Member
  • Member For: 15y 7m 26d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Central Coast / St Leonards

hey guys, so I used to own a BF MKII F6 Typhoon, sold it and went in to the skyline business with a R34 GTR.... trying to sell It at the moment but replaced it with a F6X.

as previously owning a F6 I know what they are capable of, but the thing is this time round its a 4WD and not to many people have modded them.
I have a few questions for the guys that have modded them.

im only looking to run around 270-300awkw, ive heard running 320awkw or more things don't last for a long time so I think 270-300awkw is safe and some good power for now.

FMIC - I for one thing its stupid paying $2000 for plazmaman kit, so I rung plazmaman and asked them the size of the intercooler they use.

its 400Wx450Lx76(3 inch ) thick. so im thinking there are plenty of near size intercoolers around to buy, also buy a 3 inch piping kit and cut and use them to make it fit.... might take some playing around but for $500-$800 you have just saved yourself around $1300.

thoughts?

INJECTORS - from memory I ran 440cc inj in my F6 Typhoon, but im think anywhere around the 600cc mark will be plenty.

TURBO - don't get me wrong, I love the turbo response of my GT3582 (0.63)ar comes on boost very quick... but dies off. had the same issue with my F6 it was an animal when you put your foot down (360kw) but top end ran out of puff. so on my GTR I have a HKS T51R KAI BB, it is the best sounding turbo out there. and yep I bought one for the F6X because I love the sound. it might be a bit laggier comared to the standard turbo but I know it will pull all the way to the end and that's the feel I want not having to short shift. it is a 800hp turbo, but its very unique sound will definatly make heads turn. so to that

Manifold - I will need a manifold, has anyone got custom or even a aftermarket manifold for there TT or F6x?

I will be looking for a top mount v band flange, with 60mm wastegate possibly screamer but unsure yet.

I don't think I will need much more to get the desired kw range Im after, ill only be running around 13-16 pound boost so I think that should be plenty.

whats everyones thoughts? or suggestions? :)

post-31031-0-25082200-1418017606_thumb.j

post-31031-0-25916200-1418017773_thumb.j

Edited by xr6bfv
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 10y 10m 25d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: NOR Perth

Nice car mate.....cant really help but thought I'd compliment it none the less :P

So whats wrong with the 34GTR? I would much prefer that over any Ford lol....I'm guessing you have a family now (or bigger family); hence the big rig now

anyways, good luck with it all....I'm sure others will respond with proper answers soon enough :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member
  • Member For: 9y 5m
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: St Clair NSW

Gday mate nice car. I purchased a ttg about 3 weeks ago and im coming to terms with paying the $2500 for a fmic. Heres the ups and downs of an FX6 or TTG Your diff ratios are 3:7 where as the TTG has 4:11. The ZF6 speed is your main concern. With 3:7 you put a lot more stress on a box that's weak even for a stocker. No need to change ratios but keep in mind your up for around $8000 to $10k for a box. Having said that 350AWKW is easy to achieve apparently. 1000ID injectors 12psi actuator 4 inch dump going into a decent cat leave the rest stock your turbo im not to sure about as I was told by many ppl that the FX6 has a smaller turbo than BA?? You dont need valve springs as the FX6 already has the bigger springs in it from factory. Your Conrods are also stronger than a TT and a decenent tuner. If in NSW I suggest to speak to Joe at CMS he can also supply you with cheap parts. As for your front mount... I looked at plazmans ic and at the end of the day your going to be cutting into the body of a nice car that may have value in yrs to come. I can build a wild N/A engine but im pretty new to tubos. But this is what iv learnt from friends looking at dynos and a damn lot of reading. Bar and plate IC are excellent for drag cars their cheap they flow a damn lot of air but down side is once their hot they stay hot. There not very street friendly. Tube and fin is a lot lighter which means it can cool faster. I was looking at a car on the dyno just yesterday fitted with a tube and fin (nizpro) for about 45mins and I was watching the temps. Very Stable results. 8 times the price of a bar and plate set up though. The top mount to make ANY consistent power MUST go. Im running just under 5psi ( still stock) and on a raining day cruising at 100km/h (practically no boost) my intake temps were min 33 deg engine 91-93 deg on a 20 deg day. I boost it a few times and the engine stays exactly the same but intake temps rocket. I purchased a bar and plate $150 ebay) core size 450X300X100mm I moved my radiator back 40mm cut the lip off the inner front bumper support bar and re welded it. Although I dont need it I will be removing the original battery tray and moving it the other side and running a 3A pod filter similar to plaz's set up. Ill let you know how she goes in a few weeks with precise temp readings ect.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member
  • Member For: 9y 5m
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: St Clair NSW

I thought they were all bar and plate myself and they are just charging whatever they want cause no one else is really making them compared to say a Nissan 200SX where you have practically hundreds of makers/combinations. But its not true. They are actually tube and fin. I saw a Plazmaman core so I can vouch for them Nizpro Im going by what they told me over the phone. Maybe Nizpro has cheaper options hence the stage 1 stage 2 ect with $$$ to match, Im not sure.maybe they lied to me only those who own them can say. Valve springs may be a hit or miss on BA based engines I honestly couldn't tell you mine I have inspected and they are extremely soft but the FX6 fortunately did get the fatter rods which makes them 350awkw safe (safer) and they all did get the tougher springs. Apparently (and this is only going by several Ford fanatics which I personally know) the reason they ran the weaker springs was due to Ford worrying about Cams chewing out which is why we see this on the later models which have tougher springs. In saying this cams can also chew out due to weak springs but only at high rpm (valve bounce).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member
  • Member For: 11y 4m 11d

The first generation Nizpro intercoolers were tube and fin. I know this because I had one.

I rang them up around them up around this time last year and they now use bar and plate cores. They have the same core for both the standard and 'big big' cooler, just different size outlets.

Perhaps the car you saw had an early generation intercooler on it

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member
  • Member For: 9y 5m
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: St Clair NSW

I didnt even realize till just than you've already bought a T51.... Cant help you with what flanges are needed ect. But a couple of calls to reputable turbo manufactures will point you in the right direction.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member
  • Member For: 10y 4m 30d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Brisbane

that's an expensive turbo...look forward to hearing it.

Your probably going to need a t3 or t4 to v band adapter depending on what manifold you use. Or get one fabbed

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
  • Create New...
'