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Brake Shudder - On The Hunt For The Problem. Over Heated Brake Fluid?


masda74

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  • Member For: 10y 4m 8d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Brisbane

If you knew how DTV it takes to cause problems you would make sure everything is in check, including wheel nut torque.

http://www.dba.com.au/tech-article-t004-dtv-disc-thickness-variation/

T3 + A1rm's FTW. Its as good as the stock brakes get... As long as everything else is in order.

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  • Talks Cheap, Let's Race
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  • Member For: 17y 4m 13d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Atherton, FNQ

my brake fluid looked like that so I flushed the system myself with new fluid and when I checked it about 3 weeks later it looked just as bad as before I changed it. I have flushed the system 4 times and then I put new seals in all the callipers and now seems ok

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  • Member For: 15y 8m 12d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth, Western Australia

my brake fluid looked like that so I flushed the system myself with new fluid and when I checked it about 3 weeks later it looked just as bad as before I changed it. I have flushed the system 4 times and then I put new seals in all the callipers and now seems ok

The trick is to clean the reservoir properly. If that isn't cleaned then the new fluid is only going to be contaminated.

I used to use/waste a heap of brake fluid doing this. Drain the reservoir with a 60mL syringe (used for horses, get one from a vet for about $3).

Pour new fluid in. Swish it around. Drain it. Do this several times.

Because I am flushing brakes on cars regularly (taxis) I have now got two spare reservoirs. I drain and remove the reservoir (8mm socket) and then put a clean one on. I'll then clean the old one later. This means that I don't have to wait for it to dry.

Brake fluid is absorbed in water, so washes out very easily in the laundry (or dishwasher).

I flushed the brakes on my taxi a couple of weeks ago in 45 minutes on my own. That's including adjusting the handbrake and bleeding from both bleed nipples on each Brembo caliper. Speed bleeders make it a lot quicker and easier.

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  • Member For: 12y 3m 27d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: WA, Perth

I had a good 25min conversation with Matt yesterday and I was told that it could be anything that has caused the problem.

- I could skim/replace the rotors and it ill go away for a while and then possibly come back.

- It could even be the bushes for the control arm.

- It could be the way the rotor was installed without removing dust from the hub.

- It could be the way the nuts for the wheels were tightened.

- It could even be the resins from the brake pads that have accumulated on the rotor. a few heavy braking from 80km/h could help remove this resin.

Endless possibilities and unless I figure out what it is, the issue will remain there.

The problem is to figure out what is casing the issue and spending the least amount of cash.

I will be looking at getting some tools so I can revisit this the following weekend.

I will be removing the wheels, pads, callipers and rotors and working my way back.

Making sure that all rust or debris has been remove from the hub and rotors(I will keep the DBA rotors on for the time being).

I will see if I can get the OEM pads back in there. I shall make use of my Torque wrench and tighten the wheel nuts and calliper nuts as well.

At this point, my plan of attach in regards to the bushes for the control arm, is to get the shockworks gear off .stripes.

One I got them, I will then get Malaga suspension to install them, but at the same time replace the bushes in the control arms.

Would this be the go?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-Falcon-FG-SUPER-PRO-Front-Suspension-Bush-Kit-/331387558926?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d283cdc0e

I have the feeling that this is overkill.

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  • Member For: 12y 3m 27d
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  • Location: WA, Perth

Do you mean QFM A1RM? I liked their HPX pads (lower performance street pads kinder to rotors).

(Queensland Friction Materials)

Steve, How have your found the HPX pads? Nick in East Perth has suggested these to me.

I would like to get my OEM pads back in first and see what the go is, but if you rate these, I might pick some up from Nick tomorrow.

How much did they cost you Steve?

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  • Manual mode ________________________ All day, erryday
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  • Member For: 16y 4m 4d
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  • Location: Probably above atmospheric pressure

Like $80 or something for my old front stock brakes? Hard to remember, but they stopped well. Possibly not enough for a race event though, Would probably want A1R-M if selecting from the QFM range. But yeah great street pads that took decent punishment.

Dusty like all good pads though :P

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  • Member For: 12y 3m 27d
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I have not changed them and dont plan on getting other pads right now. Might put the oem ones back in over the weekend and see how this affects the car.

As I mentioned, I spoke to Nick and I am not sure that changing pads will fix this. I dont want to spend more money at this time of the year.

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  • Member For: 10y 10m 3d
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  • Location: NOR Perth

yeah no sh*t hey....since ralph & butt plug say the pads are garbage....I'm thinking when I change to the DBA rotors, I'll use a different set of pads.

since everyone raves on about the A1RM's.....might give them a try (hopefully the brake dust doesn't drive me crazy)....but since its a while off; I might wait and see how Luke finds those project mu pads

I'm hoping these Pedders guys can spot the bushes that are causing me grief....if not I will still try the radius arm to chassis bushes & upper inner control arm bushes as suggested by Pat & Luke.

f*ck I hate shudder!!!!

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