Gremlins In Daughters 2005 Ba Xr6

[01txr]

Please anyone, can you give me any clue to funding the issue with this car.

I've been driving it for the past week,it had a few times lit up every light in the cluster when switch in to high beam.

Then there was the click click crank a few times.

Also wife cleaned car the other day(uuumm) had radio going without keys???

Pretty sure it never used to work without turning on to accessory .

Today it decided no more, it's like its got a weak battery or power supply.

Changed battery still the same.

I think its now triggered security as well.

Won't even turn audio on.

Also if I turn lights on to auto I get a clicking from rear left quarter.

Try locking car and won't work, and the hazards come on very dull and only on cluster not indicators plus make rear and map lights flash.

Locks won't work but boot release dose by fob.

Also when switched to ignition the throttle body drive by wire is switching on and off.

I'm thinking either bad earth or bcm.

Plus cabin bulb is blown, I've heard this may cause problems as the imobilizer is one same circuit?

Please share if you know a fix.

[Ralph Wiggum]

Audio will stay on for one hour without the key in

Sounds like the battery is stuffed.

Clicking in rear quarter will be the fuel flap release

Probably need a new battery

Tb will cycle open and closed when powered up

Seriously get a new battery.

Change the blown interior globe

Did I mention it's the battery?

[jas98]

^^^^think what hes trying to say is, its the washer fluid needs toping up..

but yeah sounds like battery

[01txr]

It's not battery.

Have put my odessay battery out of my car and still exactly the same.

Tried jump start.

The clicking sound in rear is coming from premium amp.

Disconnected it to confirm.

You try locking with the key fob and all it does is starts dimly flashing the indicators on cluster.

Indicators not flashing

The boot release works by fob.

Trying to start car and the ICC starts clicking, sounds like coming from behind tissue compartment.

Turn just to ignition without cranking and the throttle body starts clicking.

Turn lights on and they don't come on, turn back to Parker's and they come on.

But after approx 5 sec the blue back lighting fades off and the needles stay lit.

Center cabin light bulb blown.

All the other cabin lights also start flashing as if the indicator fuse is controlling them.

I had noticed the indicator relay clicking to be very quite and hard to hear during the last week.

As well one night had dash cluster lights all lighting up on flicking hi beam on and off.

Will pull car to pieces over weekend and check earths.

This is really pissing me.

Can I change the bcm over without having to code it in.

This morning I reconnected battery tried to crank it and the security code error came up but cleared itself.

Still not starting.

Put my SCT tuner on it to check errors and it to started to flash and froze when turned ignition to on.

Gggggrrrrr

I'd have it towed to ford to get fixed but I'm on verge of bankruptcy and have no possible way of paying it.

And daughters on apprenticeship can't afford it.

Needs it to get to work.

So I'm hoping someone who may have same issues may be able to help.

Btw I've checked all fuses and relays and all are fine.

[Wenier]

Still sounds like battery. Or bad connection.

What car was your battery out of?

Pretty sure bcm is coded for vehicle.

These things can be picky about battery quality.

[barnz]

Sounds like a bad earth or possibly even a short somewhere if it was able to drag the sct unit down with it. Pull all non essential fuses and see if it comes good and re install them one at a time to locate the problem. Also check your neg terminal to the body where there is no paint or a scratch, not between the neg terminal and where it grounds to the body. You can get a good circuit there but may still be making a poor connection to the body.

I had an alternator do this on a laser. A battery that just started a 5l bombodore would struggle to start it and be flat within a few starts. Made the dash go bonkers, dim lights ect. Alternator had a short.

Edited 16/04/14 09:53 PM by barnz

[01txr]

its last battery kept spewing acid out, when it died approx 6mths ago it was replaced with a exide heavy duty, which is still showing 13volts and has still got green illumination in the condition gauge.

The Odessay battery is out of my turbo BA XR6 and we used it to get by last time till daughter bought the new battery.

When last battery died Id checked the voltage from alternator and it was fine, not over charging or under charging.

Im really thinking BCM or a short or maybe a bad earth connection somewhere.

Tested Battery neg to body and neg to engine and earth is fine there.

checked volts to fuse box and its fine, checked volts from fuse box and its fine.

Could it be some sort of failure with the starter motor or ignition immobilizer key sensor?

If I change the bcm will it start or will I have to have it coded by ford.

Or if I change the ecu and bcm from another car will it function or will I also have to change out the steering column as well.

just wish the sct would read the fault. gggggrrrr

has anyone had the cabin light bulb blow, did you have any issues because of it?

Im hoping its the bulb, yes sounds optimistic but ive seen a few comments on the bulb in my searches.

will find out when I get home if it is.

Edited 17/04/14 02:47 AM by 01txr

[arronm]

Doubt its the bulb. My son runs no bulb in his. Have you checked the battery voltage as you try and start the car

[barnz]

Unplug the bcm and see if your scanner will do anything at all. It really sounds like the whole lot is being dragged down by a short. A short is theoretically an infinite amount of load so it will just suck the juice out of it. Have you checked the battery with a load on it? Does the voltage drop dramatically when you open the door, switch headlights on ect. Process of elimination mate, these kind of electrical faults can become a lengthy nightmare to locate.

Also if your battery is heating up excessively whilst your messing around trying to fix it you can be pretty sure its a short somewhere.

And silly question but is there an earth strap on the car?

Edited 17/04/14 03:47 AM by barnz

[01txr]

It has a earth strap.

It is not battery as I've tried my odessay batt plus tried jump from car, and from a 4wd battery.

Maybe the earth strap is carrying voltage but not the amperage.

It's the woven factory one and it did cop acid from that last battery.

Maybe corroded and not flowing enough current.

Will change it tomorrow, I'll start pulling parts from my car to try eliminate.

Yeh fitted the cabin bulb no good but it cleared the security error.

And the dash lights stayed on and didn't dim off leaving the needles illuminated.

Try lock the doors and nothing but the soft clicking and dim cluster indicator lights flashing.

Again to stop it I have to turn headlight switch on the off and it stops. Nothing else seems to stop it.

Still when turn ign to on position the throttle body is clicking like its getting power from the flasher unit.

In fact everything is like its being controlled by the flasher unit.

Throttle body, dash lights, cabin lights, Parker's, going out to rip the flasher unit out.