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Alignment Settings


F6R

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  • Forged Member
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  • Member For: 17y 1m 22d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: SW Sydney

The only stock adjustmenet is Toe (not counting the addition of shims for camber correction) so there isn't too much you can play with. Rear toe should be as neutral as possible and front should have a little toe in - not much though.

Every car and driver is different though, so you need to set it up for your needs and driving style.

For handling on the street 1.5 deg negative camber is good without killing tyres, but only if you increase the toe in a little more - rear should generally stay as neutral as possible - but it is dependent on set-up, tyre wear, conditions etc

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  • Member For: 15y 4m 28d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Sydney, New South Wales, Australia

G'day F6R

I have all the factory settings for the BA XR - I don't know whether your F6 would be different but it might be useful to you. Pm me if you'd like it.

Cheers,

Chris

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  • Member
  • Member For: 15y 4m 28d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Sydney, New South Wales, Australia

Gee I wish I'd read this earlier - I just finished typing up and posting a new topic called Wheel Alignment Specifications - and all of Greg's info is in there...

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  • 1 year later...
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  • Member For: 14y 5m 8d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: WA

Anyone have the documented figures for the FG XR6T?? Arguing with my dealer about excessive tyre wear and my rears have a variance of .75 degrees between the left and right camber!!!

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  • Member
  • Member For: 12y 9m 26d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth NOR

I had my alignment set by reputable suspension shop in WA, this is their recommendations and what they had to do. Worthy note is my car has been lowered to 335mm center rim to guard front and rear.

When I took my car to them camber was between 1.5-2.5 on the 4 corners and toe had been pushed to 5mm to compensate.

They recommended 0.6 neg all round which will help reduce tyre wear and increase traction at the rear and give a better handling package.They had to use a upper control arm concentric poly bush on rear to get this and had my front upper control arm modified with longer bolts,poly bushes and shims to get the 0.6 neg. Caster was then set with 1 deg difference across the front(7deg left 6 deg right) and toe set right back to 1.5mm front and 2mm rear.

Car feels and handles much better tracks straight, fairly neutral turning, wanders much less and does feel like the power gets down heaps better.

Whilst these settings may not suit track or absolute performance handling it does provide a nice compromise and looks after the tyres.

These cars stock do not offer much adjustment and even stock height benefit from camber/caster kit fitments. The initial cost would be quickly recouped in increased tyre life.

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  • Member For: 17y 7m 4d

I have all the FG and SY territory factory tables (SZ is slightly different due to the new epas but I changed jobs) but I might be able to remember all the key points off the top of my head-what would people like to know?

Come to think of it I have written these up on here before, a quick search should find that thread.

Just a note that we work in decimal degrees, not mm.

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • Member
  • Member For: 14y 5m 8d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: WA

WA g6et, which shop did you take yours to? I foolishly had mine done at pedders and it has creaked in the right rear ever since (which my dealer says is "a body creak"!! even though it wasn't there until after the alignment), so I'm looking for a good shop to take it to. Have considered Wilkinsons or Wheels World, but just wondered where you went.

Also, what did you pay for the alterations? (the rear bushes and changes to the front etc)

Cheers,

Josh

Edited by DEDLYWEPN
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