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New Guy Needing Some Xr6T Buyers Tips


highland

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  • Member For: 14y 1m 13d

hey guys just in the market for an xr6t ute

few questions I have to start off with, im looking to spend about 25k bit more if I have to

- do I look for a cheap bf or settle for a ba ?

- main differences between both? driveline, handling, brakes etc

- id prefer a hardlid but whats the go with the torneau covers, some have the loop holders around the edge of the ute and some dont ?

- whats the general price range and klm's clocked up on ba's or bf's that I should be looking for ?

cheers :)

also just another quick question sorry.. whats the difference between a normal xr6t and an mkII xr6t ?

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  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 15y 11m 17d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: East Suburbs Melbourne

If you can afford it choose a BF, They have a better motor, and most likely lower k's. Also if you choose the BF has the ZF 6 speed box which is an awesome transmission.

If your thinking manual a MK11 BA will be pretty good as they had the 6 speed manual over the 5 speed which according to alot of people is not great.

As for brakes im not sure of any difference between the BA and the BF, I hear the BF MK11 has better brakes and also the typhoon bottom end which is what you want if your planning 350rwkw+ engine mods. (it has stronger piston rods)

Im not sure about utes but the price for a BF would be mid to high 20's and a BA mid teens low 20's. MK2 BF fetch even more at high 20's to 30's

Hope that helps

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  • Member For: 15y 8m 4d

If you plan on modding try to extend your budget for a BF built after 06/06 or a bf mk2. They got the typhoon internals so your off to a better start from a reliability perspective.

Not sure about utes but sedans you can pick up a late bf or early bf mk2 for 25-27 if you are willing to look around.

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  • Member For: 14y 1m 13d

excellent.. thanks guys

I have no bargaining experience admittedly, how much would you intend to knock off price wise on carsales private car sellers in general ? based on a 30k car that is as they all tend to have negotiable asterix's next to their price

I looked round on here and sourced out info for the tonneau plugs so its not a concern anymore

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  • Cruise Whore
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  • Member For: 18y 8m 19d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melbourne

Probably the BF and as others say go for one that is post June 2006 if you can.

I don't remember if the brakes on the BF are better - but definitely the ZF 6 speed auto transmission is a big attraction. One thing I can say though - I had brake shudder on my 1st BA and my 3rd BA but my 2nd car was a BF XR6T and had no brake shudder whatsoever.

There's a link somewhere where I posted up a guide comparison of BA Mk1, Mk2, BF Mk1 and BF Mk2 - Not sure where it is now but if I find it - will let you know. It shows the factory differences between the models.

Here's a link on some things to look for - it's mainly about buying a BA, but some of the stuff still applies generally speaking.

As for negotiating - I think in the second hand market - be choosey about the car you are after - vehicle conditions vary enormously. If you find the right car for yourself - don't worry too much about price unless it's grossly unfair/unrealistic - main thing is you've been looking all this time and find the right one - get it while it's up for the taking is my opinion :buttrock:

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • Cruise Whore
  • Moderating Team
  • Member For: 18y 8m 19d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melbourne

Here is something I spotted just then - RACV did a buyers guide to XR6Ts in the April 2010 issue. Doesn't really say more than what any of the long termers here know already - but good for newbies I think. Like it will mention brake shudder but doesn't really tell you you can fix it using dba 4000 slotted rotors and Race Brake RB24 pads on the front wheels and so on. Here it is anyway - enjoy :beerchug:

By the way, not all modified cars have been driven hard - contrary to what the article says. I reckon there would be fair number of people on this forum who have modified their cars and treat them well and with respect.

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  • Member For: 15y 3m 25d

By the way, not all modified cars have been driven hard - contrary to what the article says. I reckon there would be fair number of people on this forum who have modified their cars and treat them well and with respect.

True to an extent, but.... you would never buy a modified car 2nd hand if given the option of a stock car, everything else being equal. Either would I.

Don't buy a modified car, it's as simple as that. There is a wealth of XR6Ts available meaning you can easily dismiss them. You can get a stock /log book serviced car, probably cheaper than a modified one anyway.. This way you mitigate the risk involved... it's a no brainer. Modified cars may be looked after, but odds are they've still been pushed a lot harder than stock cars... if not raced or dragged.

Edited by -MARTY54-
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  • Member For: 15y 3m 3d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melbourne

Go the BF. I remember when I was in this situation, and decided on a BA as it was cheaper. After a bit of convincing, I decided to wait a little longer, save my money and get a BF. I did wait quite a while for the right car, it was well worth it. Picked up an immaculate BF August 06 build with leather, sat nav, premo sound, 34, 000k's on the clock and 12 months reg for $22500 back in January. Just be patient, bargains do pop up here and there...just check carsales every morning and every night.

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