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How To: Dash Removal


Mike XR6T

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  • iTs alL DaRDy........
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 16y 7m 18d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Adelaide

Well every one is keen so here is a right up on HOW TO

ill add pics next time I do one :)

Grab a Beer and Read INTIRLY before starting

0.) set heater to hot and vents to face and then disconnect battery

1.) raise seat up and unscrew 3 hand brake bolts on the drivers side to get hand brake away from console- it clips to console so when loose lift it and move to drivers side to clear console.

2.)pull gear stick surround UP and off

3.) unscrew 2 console sides with phillips head- 1 screw a side and remove

4.) move both seats forward and unscrew 8mm gutter bolts in both sides of rear of console

5.) seats back

6.) undo 4X 8mm gutter bolts in top of console next to selector and 1X phillips head to loosen console

7.) undo 2X phillips holding cig lighter mount in and remove, disconnecting wiring

8.) undo 2X phillips holding front of console to dash

9.) pull hole console up from rear, if still tight some have 2X clips under carpet in center console storage area(move to side to disengauge)

10.)remove console from car

11.) beer

12.) take top of ICC using flat screwdrive of the like lifting from rear until it unclips

13.) remove 1X screw from behind

14.) under ICC disconnect arial plug(black) and 4X plug connectors from ICC starting left and working right( bit tricky may need a light and mirror to figure out the clips)

15.) undo 4X 8mm screws from the sides 2 a side and pull ICC forward until it is clear of the dash- MOVE CAREFULLY AND STORE UPRIGHT

16.) remove lower steering shroud 3X phillips head screws from the bottom

17.) disconnect 4/5X plug connectors going to colomb

18.) undo 1X 10mm bolt in bottom of colomb holding steering shaft to steering rack left of brake pedal(if it spins use a 13mm spanner to hold otherside)

19.) undo 4X 10mm Bolts holding upper section of colomb to dash and remove intire colomb from car(do this with steering centered)

20.) remove fuse box cover and use a screw driver to "pry" the bonet release down and towards front of car to unclip

21.) remove A pillar covers by pulling away from pillar at the top and working down until off on both sides.

22.) in top center of dash remove small 6" cover from dash near windscreen using a pik etc and loosen allen key bolt- dont remove just loosen(6mm from memory)

23.)on both sides of dash, remove side panels by prying off, dont worry 1 clip each side will break but it doesnt matter, it can hardly be helped.

24.) on both sides pull kick panels away from sides, manipulating them so u have acess to the wiring plugs(they wont break they are very flexible)

25.) dissconect 4ish plugs on both sides and pull white plug mount from kick panel area(ull no what I mean) it needs to be forced out as the sh*t plastic clips hold it in :)

26.) left hand side needs arial disconnected, pul black outer clip doen and pull other half to disconnect it.

27.)undo the long 10mm bolt in the bottom of center console area

28.) while in the area on the pass side is a plug infront of that bolt for the srs module, black plug with white housing, pull towars pass side to disconnect

29.) undo the 10mm bolt nere clutch pedal area that holds metal bracket to firewall30.) undo the 1X 10mm bolt either side that is right in nere the top door hinge and loosen right off till it dangels in the door hinge area

31.)undo the 2X 10mm bolts either side that hold the dash in

32.) with help from mate pull the dash forward from the center and once it clears the selector, hand brake and firewall work it out the passanger door with out scratching anything :).

ONCE OUT: Beer

33.) disconnect him module floor vent control rod(steel) -HIM is grey module on left side of heater box- rod has a yellow clip to disconnect

34.) disconnect 3X wiring plugs to module(4 if dual zone)

35.) unscrew 3X screws that hold module in 2 in left side and 1 under screwed to fire wall

36.)carefully remove module, manipulating it away from the 3 rods it controls( they r flexible dont be scared(black blue and green I think))

37.)remove 6X phillips from very top of heater box and remove that panel

IF REPLACING HIM STOP HEAR, FIT NEW HIM AND REFIT DASH- Id replace rod to be safe as its cheap as

38.) remove 6X phillips from front of box

39.) gentelly pull front down(bottom will still be joined)

40.) u should be able to clearly see if the rod is broken now as if it was in tact the HIM would be hard to egt out as rob would be still engauged to it.( the plastic drive gear in the HIM can be pushed out to the pass side to disengauge the rod if it is intact and your just doing the HIM)

41.) remove the broken rod by slowly working it out, making sure u suport all 4 flap hinge points as they are prone to break.a mate is handy now! u dont wanna flex the flaps just slide the rod straight out to the left. (if dual zone u will have 2 short rods an extra step is required, remove the servo motor on the drivers side and slide your extra rod out the drivers side)

42.) fit the new rod(rods) with the same care to remove

43.)once your happy with the rod fitment, making sure the flap edges(bushes) are located in the heater box sides, reassemble the box

44.) once box is re assembled fit the HIM with the gear drive pushed left to the disengauge position

45.) refit HIM allowing the control rods to fit to the flaps they opperate corectly.

46.) lift the heater flaps u just fixed up so they are in the full hot postition(up and forwassd so heater core is visible) and then push the HIM drive gear right so it engauges the rod( dont worry if it doesnt line up perfect the HIM will self test and align its sefl anyway.

47.) REFIT in reverse order the DASH etc

48.) remomber to refit the ICC connectors in reverse of removal, replug the lower plugs left to right.

49.) when its all back together connect the battery and opperate as usual the HIM should self test and adjust itself as required.

50.) if u fitted a New HIM take the car to a sparky or ford to have it programmed to your car

BEER

The HIM is the same part regardless of model variant it is just coded differantly.

ill post part numbers soon but any ford dealer should know them:)

If Mods wanna make this sticky I can modify when I do picks next time I do one that will make it much easier than starting from scratch

if I left anything out please let me no:)

tools required

phillips head screw driver

8mm Socket

10mm Socket

pik or flat screw driver

6mm allen key

maybe an adjustable rench to remove shifter if manual

10mm spanner(battery)

:blink::spoton:

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  • Lost Member
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  • Member For: 15y 8m 18d
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Thanks for that Mike, really appreciate the effort you went to, Well Done. No wonder it costs so much (it's for all the beer needed to work properly)

cheers.

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  • Oh look.... a real car, with no hair dryer
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  • Member For: 17y 8m 13d
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  • Location: Fear and Loathing in Callala Bay

Nice write up mate. Wish you were in Sydney, looks like my dash is coming out very soon.

Edited by mercuryturbo
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  • iTs alL DaRDy........
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 16y 7m 18d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Adelaide

dude, to pul the cluster out, lower to colomb and undu the three screws undfe it and remove bottom schroud, pull the top schroud up and u will c 2 phillips head screws holding the cluster cover in, undo them and the top u and ull b sweet :)

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  • BOOST
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  • Member For: 20y 7m 18d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Southern Highlands NSW

You'll never guess what I'm up to today :spoton:

2 cores in 2 years farking tops hey :banghead:

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