General Audio Questions

[#96]

Part 2:

I'm pretty sure I've just found the plug that would connect to the sub in a premium pack (two wires, taped to the body, directly behind sub hole)

Soooo, can I get my non premium icc to spit out a signal to these wires?

If I have to, ill check for continuity and simply add them to the rear speaker output, but would rather the icc give me a signal for it.

(dont need adjustments on screen, will have a remote adjustment for the amp already, so even a plain full range speaker signal will work for me)

Anyone tried this?

[TomT]

Hey Guys,

Looking at upgrading the speakers in my FG mk1 sedan.

Already has some "orion" speakers and tweeters in the front door and a couple of 10" subs in the boot run off an orion sub.

All pretty cheap stuff I imagine. I'm pretty happy with the subs, but one of the front door speakers has stopped working so I'd like to get some good quality ones.

Questions:

- Is alpine type R a good way to go?

- Will I need another aftermarket amp for the speakers?

- Is keeping the standard wiring ok or?

- can anyone give me an idea of exactly what I'll need to buy to do both front and rear doors? Will install all myself

[#96]

if you want volume from the standard stereo, with no amp, you will need to find some speakers with high sensitivity.

the stock speakers will be designed for low power, while lots of aftermarkets need plenty of power to get loud.

cant help much more, as mine is a work in progress.

[stubbietubbie]

Howdy,

I have a BF Typhoon, thus a 6 stacker premium ICC. I got an Auxiliary output installed earlier this year and a replacement stacker since the last one swallowed a CD and choked. It was through ASL, who I felt did a solid job and I'm sure they've done enough installs like this to not have screwed it up, so they're the last ones I want to blame just yet. Yesterday when I got into the car on an especially hot day the screen wouldn't turn on and all the buttons are rendered useless, there is some air coming from the A/C, which I'm guessing is from the last setting I had it on before I last drove it, but nothing else is happening. I've been told Ford ICC's commonly suffer from 'heat stroke' and leaving it for a day in a cool environment would fix it.

So today I'm back in, and still nothing. I don't want to point fingers since I can only currently speculate, but could this be from the Aux/stacker install from earlier in the year? I've never had this problem in the years I've had the Phoon, and it's experienced hotter days than the one that has potentially killed it. I daresay it's the first legitimately hot day experienced since the install, thus my suspicions. But maybe it was just it's time too? Could a cable somewhere within have miraculously come off? I'm thinking no, and am currently considering all options before I take it to an auto elec or bug ASL or as a very last resort, consult Ford themselves, who'll more than likely just say I need a new unit, and duck that.

Is there anything I'm not trying? I've limited knowledge of cars technically, and besides pressing the on/off button on the unit and every other button, was almost considering unplugging the battery to maybe reset it or play with fuses, though both those options I'm not keen on doing myself. Yeah, I'm that hopeless.

Apologies if this is a common-enough situation that it's been answered many times before, but I couldn't find an exact match to my problem when I did a search. Or if this is the wrong place to post. And thanks for any reply, even if it's just calling me stupid.

Edited 14/12/13 08:07 AM by stubbietubbie

[Ralph Wiggum]

Wow

Such Post

Very Words

Much Long.

Sorry mate can't help you. Cant say I've ever heard of ICC "heat stroke"

[stubbietubbie]

Well, that was interesting. Much wow.

Being the optimistic sort to leave something and hope it fixes itself; it hasn't. And so today I made the effort of disconnecting the battery and found no success. Tried turning the ICC on with/without the engine turned on and discovered something new. I can hear a faint 'ticking' noise coming from the factory sub, and when I was staring closely at the screen there is a near-invisible flicker that I think is flashing in time with the sub tick. I cannot say if this has happened since I disconnected the battery or not, since it's such a faint noise and I was in a closed garage with minimal noise that I might just not have heard it before. I'm now guessing the ICC is properly ducked, and it's trying to 'turn over' but something internal is not letting it. I was going to try and unplug and reconnect the fuse for it, but I couldn't remove it or simply don't know how (I'm guessing I need needle-nose pliers, if anything), and I'm not sure if doing such a thing will make matters any better (or worse still, the car re'fuses' to go - nice).

Last call for any suggestions or ideas please, otherwise I'll definitely be giving an auto elec or Ford a call tomorrow because I nearly died on the drive home from work in this heat (and it's only going to get hotter as the week progresses). Even with the windows down.

Cheers.

[Lennox]

Mine gets heat stroke in the way that the screens really faint when it's hot?

[stubbietubbie]

So we got there in the end!

Me and a friend started taking to the fuses with some needle-nose pliers, ripping out anything that looked associated with the ICC (removing the amplifier fuse stopped the ticking), and we worked through them one-by-one, checking if it did anything by turning the car on and if the fuses themselves were worn-out of completely stuffed. We even swapped them out with some of the spare fuses too just in case and it didn't seem like any of it was working. After they were all plugged back in, the ICC sprang back to life, with a message like SECURITY CODE ERROR or similar. We turned the ignition and everything looks back to normal. Our theory is that one or two of the fuses are possibly on their way out, and the heat just acted as a hint to pending failure. We also suppose that the unplugging of the battery instigated the ICC attempting to turn itself on (and thus the sub ticking noise/screen flicker) and the playing with fuses got everything back on track.

We're still not sure exactly which are causing the problem, but as far as I'm concerned, if it ever happens again I'll be running through the same process of unplugging the battery, then unplugging and reconnecting any fuse that works with the ICC, and it should hopefully (dear god, hopefully) be fine. Just thought I'd give an update, in case anyone was wondering how I got on or if someone else has to go through this themselves. Personally I'm just glad I now don't have to shell out for a new ICC - which we were all but sure of until it magically resurrected.

Happy (and now a lot cooler) days!

Edited 17/12/13 09:09 AM by stubbietubbie