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Clunking Noise In Left Rear Of Car


Guest EnviXR6T

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  • Member
  • Member For: 10y 6m 2d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Auckland, NZ

Welcome to NZ. A truTrack looks like $1280, but I'm assuming this is plus whatever to actually make it work as they talk about building your drive head as a service?

 

Otherwise:

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/ford/diffs-axles/listing-2329635147.htm?rsqid=a861ae3ab9de46e781bee11100d4a970-005

 

And I was thinking of trading it after 6 years.

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  • Member
  • Member For: 10y 6m 2d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Auckland, NZ

Cracks through the mount and arms? Described as a 3” thick piece of steel, with possible cracks in the arms to the other bushes? 

 

Looking at it Monday morning.

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  • Member
  • Member For: 10y 6m 2d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Auckland, NZ

@k31th just reading something you wrote in another topic regarding bushes and broken bolts..

 

The entire diff bush in mine was out and resting against the spare wheel well, hence the clunk. The mechanic was able to push it back in with his fingers.

 

Is that more likely to be a broken bolt? I've just ordered a complete set of SuperPro bushes for it after the last ones lasted about 56k.

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  • less WHY; more WOT
  • Site Developer
  • Member For: 16y 8d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melbourne

yeah, you shouldn't be able to push the bush in by hand... that'll be either the bush mount cracked/broken or the bolt is missing/broken.

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  • less WHY; more WOT
  • Site Developer
  • Member For: 16y 8d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melbourne

you won't know which it is without inspecting it... either way it's likely you'll have to repair it by dropping the cradle anyway... just remains to be seen if you need to weld up a solution or just replace the bush/bolt (and other bushes if necessary while it's out).

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  • 4 years later...
  • New Member
  • Member For: 5y 5m 4d

Yay thread mine time lol

one thing I’ve seen a diff builder comment on is the roll pin that locates the centre pin in the diff hemisphere can crack in two fall out letting the pin to drop and it can actually foul  the pinion gear 

 

also on the m86 the clutch packs either side of the side gears have a clutch then a shim then clutch etc etc those steel shims also clack and can spit out and get chewed up in the gears 

 

also on the “side gears” on the lsd m86 most of the spigot on the side gear is takin up by the clutch packs leaving barely any spigot to register into the hemisphere really bad design 

 this is bad on a Ute that relies on that side  gear to support the splined end of the axel. IRS models have an extra caged bearing behind the side seal to help this 

Edited by jako
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