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Found 45 results

  1. Conversion xr6t's NA to T conversion

    I finally finished my 4 month project on my driveway with a cheap mixed tool box from cashie for $80 socket set from sca for $70 and a few borrowed recourse from friends/family total build cost $1800 with electric start ☺️ Now I need to see if anyone is local to Christie’s beach South Australia and can paint a car and colour match for cheap with my help is there anyone out therey
  2. Hi all, Am a full newbie to the fordxr6turbo forum, or any forum for that matter, and just thought I'd share my experience in converting my BA mk2 XT wagon into a turbo/manual/lLSD equipped weapon. Got a bit fed up with how much choice Expensive Daewoo fan's have when it comes to a quick wagon and was always pretty cut about ford never making a BA or BF (or even FG) wagon that had some poke. Massive missed opportunity. Also, every new car on the market is a sh*thouse-suv-dog walking- sunday driving-gumby driven poo box, so making a fast taxi was a no-brainer in my books. I've actually had the wagon for 8 years and used it for everything. Ranging from carrying a few hundred kilo's too many concrete bags in the boot through to weekend camping trips in the hills near where I live. It's actually pretty amazing where you can get one if you really try. Especially when it's your bed for the night and is the only car in the group that has a 'banging stezza'. Anyway, I got a bit of inspo from looking at other members conversions on this forum where they'd converted their taxi's into turbo WMD's and thought I'd give it a red hot crack. So I got excited one night after a couple of bevvy's and found myself as being the proud owner of a beaten up xr6 turbo ute. 5 months later and I can finally say the conversion is complete and the wagon is running sweet as a nut. Completely stock in every way apart from a cold air snorkel from an FPV typhoon and a Turbosmart BOV and Turbosmart Wastegate Actuator. Have no idea what power it's putting out but it's enough for me at the mo. Am looking to get a tune done at some stage in the future but the bank account won't allow that for a while so I'll just keep it as-is for now. I got some gangstaaaaaaaaa wheels for it too and reckon they set the thing off perfectly. Will post again soon to cover off on the issues I ran into along the way. The reason I joined is to share what I came across during the conversion process cause I ran into heaps of conflicting advice from this forum and others and just thought I'd help clear things up where I could.
  3. Hi Guys, I am in the process of developing a paddle gear shift setup (pretty close to complete) for the FG Falcon auto gearbox. I have had the prototype working well in my car for about a year tweaking paddle shape, switch mechanism design etc. I need to get an idea of paddle (the bit that you touch) powdercoat colours that would be suitable as I have seen a couple of different vehicle interior colour schemes. My XR6 Turbo has silver trim so silver or maybe just black would be suitable. I have a friend that has a G6E that has gloss black trim where the silver bits are on my car so I would think black would be suitable in his case. I did a set in Gloss black but I didn't like the look of it. The set in the photos below (with white background) are powdercoated Satin Black which I quite like (probably hard to tell from the photos though). I will pre-empt questions about why the paddles are stationary rather than rotating with the wheel. The simple answer is that there is just not enough room between the steering wheel rim and the indicator and wiper stalks especially when they are pulled (high beam and wash) where the stalks almost touch the back of the steering wheel. I figured it is good enough for the following exotic cars so our humble Falcons should be OK with it: Ferrari F12, 458, 488, 599 Aston Martin DB11 Lamborghini Merchialago Lamborghini Aventador (I am sure there are more, these are just the ones I have noticed) There are also a couple of photos of an older prototype installed on my car. Any suggestions of paddle colours would be great or any other feedback.
  4. BA Tailshaft

    Probably been asked before .... will an NA Xr6 tailshaft bolt to a turbo Xr6 car is a btr box and iv got an na tailshaft lined up till I buy an upgraded one from hardy spicer.
  5. Thought I would post up here about my car on this forum after stalking for quite a while and becoming quite active on the "Other Forum" Have had my 2013 FG Xr6T for nearly two years now and have slowly been accumulating a few modifications for it. Had the final bits of work done a few weeks ago at MonstaTorque and managed to pull a final figure of 400.7rwkw. Que comments of hub dyno and manual The route I've taken with the car and many parts can probably be looked at as unconventional and excessive. As a young bloke about to venture into his first mortgage, I decided to spend the extra whilst I can afford it and build a relatively reliable base and future proof as far as more mods go as I plan to keep the car for a very long time. Unfortunately have not had the extra cash to do my oil pump gears or timing chain gear so am very aware of my need to stay away from my limiter and even have a soft cut in place (Although I've been told with this amount of torque these cars like to push straight through this) Bit of info on the car: - 2013 FG Xr6T - Full poverty pack - 6 Speed manual -Bought dead stock with 56,000kms from a single female owner 2 years ago Since then I've done a few mods over the past 2 years, totaling to the following now at 75,000kms - IMS Twin Bush Diff Hat - Wavetrack Diff Centre w/ aftermarket half shafts - Shockworks Coilovers - Single Piece Carbon Fibre Tailshaft - Malwood Opt3+ w/ short shifter - 4" X-force Stainless Exhaust - Jonny Tig 1800HP Stealth Black Intercooler w/ turboside airbox and battery relocations - Crow Race Valve Springs - KPM 1000HP In tank dual pump fuel system - 58mm Billet wheel Machined into my existing 3576 turbo, rear housing ported and a 40mm flapper fitted - 1000cc Injectors and custom tune with Ngauge interface - Copy F6 Bumper - 19" FPV Twisties - DJR Bobtail Spoiler Much like so many have done in the past with their threads, I want to be able to share any info I have on my current list of mods in the hopes it aids with people future mod choices. Any questions feel free to ask. Its gonna be a bit hard to post some photos as I'm writing this on my lunch break but will post a few via Tapatalk below Some quick photos from my phone
  6. Conversion xr6t's NA to T conversion

    Hi everyone just asking around on some ideas with the first parts of my build I will have the motor and trans in soon and want to build the internals first where should I start and what brands to get and what to steer clear of. Any ideas..?
  7. Conversion xr6t's NA to T conversion

    Hi everyone me again just seeing if anyone has any hints and tips on my project just wanting 400-500rwkw comfortably . Is there anyone with some ideas
  8. Hi everyone well I already own a wrecked ba xr6t with all parts perfect except right hand door and dashboard and have a ba xr6 that needs new engine trans rear sub frame now that parts sorted. After I swap my engine rear sub frame and transmission into the standard xr6 can I just swap computers and turn it on or do I have to change all my looms as well ?? Please help
  9. Uni chip fire

    Hey guys I own a ba xr6t 5 speed manual and my uni chip ecu decided to start a fire so I’m after a new ecu, looking for something that’s decent cheers
  10. Total Newby here, Odd question, but am thinking of picking up an ex work 2011 XR6T for my wife (only $8K with 100K on it). I'm just worried about how much power it has and was wondering if there is any bolt on device that can reduce power / response while she drives it but can then be switched back when I jump in. Was thinking something like a pedal max...but not sure they go down on response, only up? Any thoughts appreciated. Cheers, Steve
  11. Car apart, Routine Maintenance??

    Hi Guys, Been a while since I've posted but loving the car so far, retune will happen mid-year hopefully but until then I'm trying to get it up to scratch in every other way. My front end is apart as I realised one of the factory hot pipes (rubber) has perished due to oil (see:little splits/cracks hardening etc.) so a guy locally had a full factory second hand set up on gumtree so I bought the lot. Sadly he recently lost his car due to mistaken identity (jerks). Gave me a lot of good info as his BF Turbo was in pristine condition. Now I have the entire front end of the car apart/exposed, are there any items people would recommend changing/checking whilst I'm here? I've heard the Boost control solenoid usually could use a clean or check and I'm generally going to check all the hoses and bolts that I can. Key fact here is that I am still able to get very cheap parts and things that would normally be very expensive I may have the ability to still get at a good price(aftermarket). Loved that Ford still sell the duct (oversized rubber rad hose) for new @ $320 I can post pics of how apart I've got it if anyone would like me to. cheers. Nathan
  12. Anyone know why my bf xr6t is making a clunking/clicking/tapping noise, its coming from the front left I think!? I took the wheel off and I think I checked all the bushes and they seemed fine but im nomechanic, only one I was abit worried about was the ball joint bush, it wasnt split just looked like wornish? I also attempted to check the ball joint and no noises by shaking the wheel.. I didnt jack up both sides though if that effects it? It was really dry though when I unbolted the upper control arm. And its also worse when theres passengers in the car and when turning left, I was thinking power steering because if im turning the wheel left to right while idling you can hear a click but no leaks or no fluid loss. Any help would be much appreciated before I take it to a mechanics and get absolutely raunted.
  13. Blake's WLD 747 - 413rwhp

    Thought I'd finally make a thread on my car, purchased her back in Oct '14 and this year finally got around to getting it tuned and ready for Powerplay May '16 and made 308rwkw/413rwhp Got the car pretty much exactly as I want it, but as all would know the power bug has bitten and I want more! Anyways lets rewind back just a bit.... This was the day I got her and now..... and the powarrrr
  14. Fg Busted diff mount bolts

    Anyone had diff mount bolts fail? Not the centre bolt but the side? Would it be easier to drop the cradle or the fuel tank to replace?
  15. Hey guys Ive recently (well in the last 12 months) put a Genuine F6 body kit on the front of my FG XR6T tonner Ute. After I had a little run in with a fence I decided an upgrade would be better than a repair. So I thought Id document the journey and recorded parts & prices in case anyone else is interested in doing the same thing. DECISION When doing an FPV body kit there are 2 main routs you can take; Genuine or Fiberglass, each with their benefits & drawbacks. -Basically going genuine will cost a hell of a lot more & you will probably have difficulty finding individual parts for an appropriate price. But it will fit 100% and be plastic meaning it will be more hardy if it catches or scrapes on gutters. The easiest option is to check in with FPV focused wreckers for complete body kits straight off the car. -All after market kits are Fiberglass, which tends to (the internet told me this) crack and splinter more than plastic as it is not as Flexible. It will most likely need massaging & trimming to fit properly and a lot more prep-work for a good paint finish. However... with bumpers on ebay starting from $300 they are far cheaper, especially considering that they have the lower grill surround, upper grill surround & fog light surrounds already in the mold which genuine can cost $300 each & are very hard to find. There are also ones that are molded to suit the XR style headlights if you prefer to keep that look. I would genuinely recommend people go this rout if they have the time to prep the bumper or want to have a go painting it themselves. I went the Genuine rout, mostly because this is a daily work & leisure ute that will certainly see gutters, and because I underestimated how many other parts there where to find, and the cost & difficulty in acquiring them. Just for the front end parts I spent over $2500 before paint. SHOPPING LIST Here is my receipt for the front end & side skirts. Purchasing the bumper in early August 2015 & finally getting my hands on a pair of fog light surrounds in mid January, it was a drawn out process that took a solid 6 Months on eBay, calling wreckers and shopping around. Collected parts from Sydney Special Vehicles, FTG AutoSalvage, Macarthur Auto Parts, eBay sellers: mr.fpv, ikeech, mrcarparts.59 and Gumtree Genuine: -FPV Bumper: $900 -FPV Upper Insert : $300 -FPV Upper insert rear molding: $205 -F6 Lower Insert: $250 (slight damage) -FPV Fog Light surrounds & brackets: $270 -Stone/Splash Guard Extension lip: $100 (bargain) -FPV Ute Side skirts + Brackets, cabin only: $680 Aftermarket: -Upper Grill: $210 -Lower side Grills: $140 -F6 Headlights: $199 -Stainless bolts for stone guard: $15 -Short button head screws for grills: $5 BUMPER Bumper was the first thing I picked up. Found it on Gumtree, new, never used, was in storage for project that never eventuated so $900 is a good price. All the parts are the same for F6 & GT until you talk about the lower grill area, that's the only difference. Upper Insert & the Upper Insert rear molding. I didn't even know the rear molding existed until I tried to put it all together, It basically clips the front insert & bumper together & provides screw holes for the grill. Luckily the guy I bought the front piece from knew what I was on about because I have never actually seen one listed on eBay. Probably the parts I over-paid the most for. F6 Lower Insert. Mine was missing the tow point cover and had some deep scratches in it that were bogged before painting, but the piece was still a bit pricey. The single hardest part to find for a 'reasonable' price. Eventually came across them on my fortnightly wreckers ring around. There was 2 other pairs I saw previously on eBay but were asking $400+ Chrome plastic surround with metal brackets to mount the fog light. The Splash Shield Extension lip was another part with little information that I only knew existed after asking another forum user. The FPV bumper is about 100mm longer and slightly lower (enough so that I now scrape when parking into gutters with stock suspension) I did however get a good deal on it. Was getting a new splash shield to replace my broken one so I messaged the eBayer about it who happened to have one and threw it in for an extra $100. Which is very good considering there's used lips on eBay atm for $300+. It bolts to the splash shield using existing screws. However mounting to the bumper is apparently done from factory with large plastic rivet thingys, so instead I got some stainless dome head bolts & lock nuts. Here's the Stainless bolts I used for the splash shield, Button head screws for the grills and you'll most likely need extra Scrivits or Christmas tree plugs for re-mounting mud guards, as I got out the angry pliers to remove them. For the Grills I went after market. They're stainless, cheaper, fit perfect, look the same and in the case of the Upper grill don't come with an F6 outline in them, which would look silly if you don't plan to put an F6 badge there. Find them on eBay. There's also the option of a central lower grill but I wanted the open Intercooler look. If going for a GT front the lower grill & insert will be different. There are only 2 shapes of FG headlight; XR & non-XR. Meaning the base model lights are the same as FPV, which keeps the price down for us. I went with aftermarket Sydney Special Vehicles Headlights though because they're cheaper for the same look, you can feel the lacking build quality though. I didn't like the look of the DRL/ fairy light options & already had HID kits ready to attach. Now the Wheel arch splash Guards have an ever so slightly different profile around the bottom of the bumper. You can spend the extra $500 or so on a full FPV set, or do what I did with some cutters to make them fit better & mount solid. Remove the bottom section of the mud guard. Cut off the outer screw point. Then Cut along the back edge about yay far. You can then remount with that tail part poking under the lip extension and secure in the same position but with only 2 bolts and some new Christmas tree plugs. Profile is still a little different but not $500 different Removing the old bumper involves 2 bolts under the bonnet; either side of the upper grill & then 2 on each corner of the bumper, accessed by pulling back the wheel arch mud guards. There's then 2 small bolts at the back of the under bumper splash shield. Un-clip the corners of the bumper, unplug the fog lights & it should all come off. Swap out the headlights and your good to put on your new bumper. All mounting points line up perfectly so just bolt it all back up. SIDE SKIRTS Now the Side skirts I lost the photos of. (Phone went swimming) But they were Genuine, new & in blue. There is a Chrome insert at the front of each that clips in, which for the pair goes for around $100, however mine came included with them. They also require 4 aluminum brackets (2per side) which I also lost the photos for. The wrecker who quoted me the $680 didn't realize there were brackets at first but called me back once they found out and included the ford brackets new in packaging for me at the same price. (ftgautosalvage, would recommend, were very friendly & helpful even with my regular calls asking for the same parts) I then had the panel beater fit them as I was doing 12hr night shifts at the time, but you could make your own brackets or ghetto rig them up if you wanted. PAINT I had the bumper painted for cheap by a local shop (Not my first choice as they were too busy) when it first showed up. Found the paint code used on 50th turbo wheels and had the fangs painted to match, scratches in the lower insert bogged and painted gloss black black along with the FPV logo section of the bumper. The rest was painted 09 Lightning strike with a pair of indicator mirrors. Left the parts with them, $300 and took about 3 weeks. Result was not good they must have painted the whole thing in the darker colors then masked up & put the silver over top. They're lines & paint job were good but the silver didn't match at all. So once the side skirts turned up I had them done at my preferred local shop. $800 Left the car with them for a few days. They blended the sides of the bumper into the quarter panels & bonnet. Took 7 blending coats but it turned out 90%, can only fault if your trying to find it at certain angles to the light. Painted & fitted side skirts which came out perfectly and didn't need any blending. RESULT Went from this: To This: Along with a new Bonnet, PW Stage2 Intercooler, side mount number plate, Indicator mirrors, 50th Anniversary Badges, stickers & a Bobblehead! TLDR: Genuine F6 bodykit, spent over $4000, should have bought an F6 to begin with... I'm now even more scared of roos. Looks F*cking Epic though!
  16. Have been having issues with my Ba xr6t mkii manual , for a while a whirring sound would come and go slightly between 60-80 km/h (I put it down to just about time for a centre bearing change over. then after about 3-4 weeks of driving to and from work I gave it a little throttle from a standing start and it made a very bad vibration through the car , pedals and gearstick. after that , any hard acceleration of more than 1/2 throttle would make bad vibration and the whirring sound had now become a Humming sound heard and felt above 50km/h. and an all around feeling of "something isn't right" was lingering ....a couple of days after this (about 60-80 kms later) I was driving with barely any acceleration at 60km/h and the whole car broke into vibration with a metal on metal sound present, the car also seemed to now have some resistance under acceleration as if the handbrake had been left on.... Babied the car home about 30km away and every time I would hit an incline and had to give anything more than a touch of acceleration the car would vibrate/drone and hum violently . on the very last hill to my house I honestly didn't think I was going to make it. the last 2kms. when I got home I took it apart and on this video is what I found...... If anyone can point me in the direction of what it might be? and the costs involved / possibly even someone in the northern perth area that can fix it, with quality workmanship? Until I get it fixed im leaving it parked up . im hoping it'll get me to the repair shop without the cost of a tow, though I've been told too much vibration being sent back through the gearbox etc could be very bad? car runs 500+rwhp on 15psi
  17. Ba Xr6T Spooling Issue/sound

    I own a 2004 ba xr6t with a standard turbo. I have noticed that when my turbo spools under load (generally in 4th or 5th gear) it makes a strange surging noise. The spool does not sound constant like it should. I have no idea what the problem may be. Looking for ideas? Thanks
  18. Upsizing Tyre Aspect Ratio

    I've got 19" 50th anniversary turbo rims that I love so much that I've bought a second set. (matching trailer) However my issue has been load rated tyres. In the factory 245/35/19 I can only get a 93rating (650kg). Local Bob Jane guy said they upped the Aspect ratio and fitted 245/40/19, 98(750) to a GS ute a while ago and haven't had any clearance issues so far. Speedo is 3.8% off. Also thinking possibly 255/40/19, 100(800kg), 5% off. Specifications for the One Tonner say max rear axle load is 1700kg so if I got to 1600kg worth of tyre rating that's enough for me. I also what the bigger numbers so I can register my trailer with a higher Load capacity. So whos done this before and had experience? How does upsizing affect acceleration, drag times, launching, handeling, cruising revs etc? Considering the same brand/pattern tyres. Also how would I find out the weight rating of the rim itself? The local parts department potatoes aren't that helpful, they couldn't even find my wheels on their system & said they must be an aftermarket option. http://www.tyresizecalculator.com/tyre-wheel-calculators/tire-size-calculator-tire-dimensions http://www.bobjane.com.au/info/load-index-speed-symbol/
  19. My New Turbo Doesn't Fit!

    Hi guys. I have a question. I own an XR6 Turbo with an (a-r50 - <- wL->5) Turbo. it has recently decided to stop working, so I bought a new turbo and was told it would just bolt on. The new turbo says its (t04E - T3/t4). As we went to swap them, we realised the old turbo is water cooled as well as oil cooled. The new one isn't. Is there a way to fit the new one? and if not, is it possible to use the internals out of the new turbo for the old casing? Thanks in advance.
  20. Fg Xr6 Turbo Running On 5

    Hi all, reasonably new to this group but having dramas with my fg. Car is an fg with a built 698 atomic engine with about 50000km on it. It started off dropping number 5 cylinder with a fault code suggesting it was coils, changed coils same problem. Got a new computer and loaded myHi all, reasonably new to this group but having dramas with my fg. Car is an fg with a built 698 atomic engine with about 50000km on it. It started off dropping number 5 cylinder with a fault code suggesting it was coils, changed coils same problem. Got a new computer and loaded my files onto it and it was fixed... For about half an hour then dropped 5 again. After that You could start it up and it would run on sequential injection for the first 10 seconds then immediately drop number 5 again. So we decided maybe we would do the imjector harness. So we replaced that and got another new computer and loaded files onto it. At last she ran on all 6, even dynoed it and all again. Then without warning its dropped number 1 cylinder, with fault codes pointing to coil windings, swapped coils but number one has nothing. Doesn't even run on 6 when first started. That brings us to today. Starts and runs on 5 cylinders. I'm at breaking point and any help would be appreciated Cheers
  21. Fg Xr6 Turbo Running On 5

    Hi all, reasonably new to this group but having dramas with my fg. Car is an fg with a built 698 atomic engine with about 50000km on it. It started off dropping number 5 cylinder with a fault code suggesting it was coils, changed coils same problem. Got a new computer and loaded myHi all, reasonably new to this group but having dramas with my fg. Car is an fg with a built 698 atomic engine with about 50000km on it. It started off dropping number 5 cylinder with a fault code suggesting it was coils, changed coils same problem. Got a new computer and loaded my files onto it and it was fixed... For about half an hour then dropped 5 again. After that You could start it up and it would run on sequential injection for the first 10 seconds then immediately drop number 5 again. So we decided maybe we would do the imjector harness. So we replaced that and got another new computer and loaded files onto it. At last she ran on all 6, even dynoed it and all again. Then without warning its dropped number 1 cylinder, with fault codes pointing to coil windings, swapped coils but number one has nothing. Doesn't even run on 6 when first started. That brings us to today. Starts and runs on 5 cylinders. I'm at breaking point and any help would be appreciated files onto it and it was fixed... For about half an hour then dropped 5 again. After that You could start it up and it would run on sequential injection for the first 10 seconds then immediately drop number 5 again. So we decided maybe we would do the imjector harness. So we replaced that and got another new computer and loaded files onto it. At last she ran on all 6, even dynoed it and all again. Then without warning its dropped number 1 cylinder, with fault codes pointing to coil windings, swapped coils but number one has nothing. Doesn't even run on 6 when first started. That brings us to today. Starts and runs on 5 cylinders. I'm at breaking point and any help would be appreciated Cheers
  22. Damp evening + crappy road + my lead food & poor judgement = a new friend out of a chain link fence. So the bumpers cosmetically ruined, bonnets dinged in a bit, headlight is covered in scratches however not broken, a few scratches on the quarter panel & there's a newly installed leaf blower under the hood stealing all my boost. From the looks of it the piping is all mangled up but the bottom of the intercooler is also dinted up a little bit. Now I always wanted an F6 bumper and since one headlight already wants replacing I figured ill just get 2 new F6 (same as g6) ones. There are fibreglass F6 bumpers for $310 raw on ebay. QUESTIONS: Anyone experienced these bumpers? They any good? Where else should I look? Whats a paint job roughly gonna cost? Do F6 & xr & G6 all have the same fog lights? I may get a chance to pull it apart and get a closer look friday night, otherwise not till sunday. QUESTIONS: Driving with a big air leak shouldn't be a problem should it? its blowing out extra air rather than sucking in dirt so I should be right to drive the 10min to & from work? Now if there's no actual hole torn in the intercooler it should be just fine to leave in there? just slightly less efficient? If not I might pony up for a PW Stage 2 Ill go see a panel beater about fixing the bonnet, not interested in an xr8 one. I might vinyl wrap the bonnet & the roof as it gets covered in bird crap every day at work atm rather than repainting the bonnet. If I'm lucky I think the quarter panel marks may buff out.
  23. Fg Xr6 Turbo Power Loss

    hi, im new to the to the turbo world and wondering if someone can help me, so I recently bought a 2010 fg xr6t with 58,000 k's on it, had it serviced about 1500 k's ago and within the first few days after the service noticed a change in power. turbo seems laggy less responsive. the mechanic said all he did was oil (synthetic) and air filter didn't touch anything that would change the power. had computer plugged in to see any registered faults but computer came up normal. have recently noticed a flutter in my exhaust which I'm thinking must be coils or plugs. if it was that wouldn't I notice a rough idol or something like that? always running premium fuel. I know the clutch is on the way out but wouldn't think that's the issue. been told to tighten manifold and change fuel filter and see what happens after that. if anyone has any ideas please share thanks
  24. Ba Xr6 Turbo Diff Advice

    I just got the Ba 2004 xr6 t auto second hand , with a noise in the diff , , I need to know if I can get a kit to fix it , or do I have to get full center ,, where and about how much will this cost me , Also any tips on on service , as this is my first turbo car and have always serviced and repaired my own cars ,
  25. G6Et Vs Xr6T

    Hello I'm about to buy either a G6ET or XR6T in about 5 months time. Considering they're the same price, which one would you choose and WHY? Also, is the G6ET slower than the XR6T to 100km/hr because the lack of LSD? From what I have gathered on other sites, there is not much of a difference.. but the only difference is racing around a track and hanging 'better skids'. - PS, I don't intend on racing around a track or skidding, so would LSD really make that much of an impact in everyday driving? I would give it a go if a Expensive Daewoo SS/GTS or anything else tried to overtake me though. Thaks


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