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Found 4 results

  1. Hi everyone, Firstly thanks for having me here. There's some great info going around on this site that is always a brilliant help. I have a BA Wagon. The diff is making hellish noises. Instead of repair I'm looking to replace and upgrade from the M78 (3.23) to a M86 LSD (3.45, Maybe even a 3.9 in time). I know from a turbo manual wagon build on https://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/94126-ba-xt-mk2-turbo-wagon-conversion/ (great piece of writing that is!) that I can replace my prop/tail shaft from the one piece to the two piece (ute) by cutting threads in the holes for the centre bearing. And then measure and cut the end piece to shorten and fit. Is there any reason why a sedan prop/tail shaft wouldn't fit? Thus not having to cut it shorter. What am I missing? UJ's not flexible enough due to it being a cradle diff? TIA, George
  2. Guys Tossing up what to do about a tail shaft for my FG manual ute Currently running around 360rwkw on 98 but will be getting the tune finalised in the next few weeks and with an eflex tune hope to be pushing into low 400s Tailshaft is currently stock; as is the rest of the rear end, ride height all stock too. I've owned since new ('08) and give it a good flogging when the need arises, but I'm generally fairly easy on it around town Usually I make an effort to keep it all smooth as possible - ease it into gear, little bit of throttle on downshifts etc etc... basically to eliminate the amount of lash/clunk/whatever that seems to come as standard with these cars. If driven like that then it's smooth as. (True story) But giving it a few hard shifts WOT 3-4 the other night - could definitely feel it there more, CVs did not seem to like it too much Tried to do a bit of searching on here but couldn't seem to pin down any threads regarding tail shaft issues in manual utes in particular - not due to power anyway, plenty of issues from lowering Point is, power will be going up and it won't be getting any better, so I've basically decided to go ahead with an upgrade, question is, what's best option? I know CMS will supply and install upgraded trail shaft for $1550, waiting to hear back from them what brand/supplier and what they're rated to. Pricewise I think 1550 is more than fair if it's say a 1000hp rated shaft and balancing issues don't rear their head. Common complaint seemed to be was massive increase in NVH with the change from CV to uni type joints From memory this was all in auto utes or sedans or manual sedans though so not sure if/how relevant Is this likely to be more/same/less of an issue in a manual ute? Options and opinions please
  3. Hey guys, Was looking for advice. Whenever I take off in first gear there is a noise that comes from the tail shaft. I've taken it to the garage as I've recently moved from WA to Victoria and have to put it over the pits to get it rego"d. The mechanic had said to me that the noise is coming from the tail shaft and that it is a bit loose. I phoned up ford over here just to get a price in case I have to get it replaced and they have quoted me $1805. I'll find out later today if it has to be replaced but was just wondering. . . . Is there any way I can get this fixed cheaper if it does have to be replaced ? Is there any chance that it could just be the centre bearing ? Is the Typhoon set up differently in regard to the tail shaft or centre bearing than other fords ? apologies for my lack of knowledge, I really need to get this back on the road asap so any advice would be awesome. Cheers Baz
  4. Hey guys. Ive got a hold of a t56 conversion kit to turn my 03 ba 4spd sedan into something a bit more fun to drive. I have got everything except this conversion I got was from a ute. The tailshaft obviously doesnt work but can I swap the front section of the manual ute shaft with rear section of my auto sedan shaft. I see my sedan has the uni joint at the centre bearing and the ute one has a cv. Is it that simple or is it best to source another tailshaft Thanks
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