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How to install Autometer gauges to a FG FALCON XR6T Parts: Autometer gauges and components SS inductions FG tripod mount Speco Oil Filter Adapter Potentiometer Fuses 2x Hose clamps Tools and consumables: Additional wire Teflon Tape Electrical tape Solder Soldering Iron Heat Shrink Split tubing Pliers Side Cutters Strippers Shifter (shortened) #NOTE# Not including tools used for Oil filter change and ICC removal Step 1: Install gauges to pod. Instructions provided should point you in the right direction. Brass threads will need to be trimmed to fit the gauges. 5/32 nuts and washers may need to be purchased. Step 2: Remove ICC unit. Instructions for this can be found below: http://www.fordaustr...-a-FG-ICC-unit. Step 3: Install wiring harness for all three gauges. Thread the loom with the gauge connectors first from the passenger side foot-well (triangle panel will need to be pulled off). Follow this path for the loom. Ensure that when the ICC is reinstalled, it will not pinch the cable. Stick adhesive automotive foam to the loom to ensure that not annoying rattles occur. Make sure both ends of each gauge loom is clearly labelled for future reference. Coil excess cable under foot-well. Reinstall ICC unit and replace top facia with SS inductions facia + gauges. Step 4: Pressure and Temperature: Install senders. Oil pressure and temperature will require an oil and oil filter change. This is done so that the Speco Oil Filter adapter can be installed. Instructions provided detail the order of components. A guide to changing your oil can be found below: http://www.fordxr6tu...-filter-in-a-t/ Simply screw the senders into the adapter. Use Teflon tape to exact a good seal. Do not over tighten. Threads on senders are easily cross threaded Boost: In regards to the boost sender, cable tie the unit to a cable loom or support. Make sure that the sender is facing down. Be sure to read the included directions. Connect the sender to the VAC line that comes from the BOV. This is done by cutting the VAC line and installing the provided t-piece. If you are finding it difficult to insert the T-piece into the Ford VAC line, dip the line into a cup of boiling water to soften the plastic. Be sure to secure the connection with two hose clamps (to fit 6mm aprox). Step 5: Cut the connections to the gauges in the foot-well but leave about 15mm from each plug. This is done because the plugs will never be able to fit through the grommet. Instead, solder some extra cable to the plugs (use heatshrink for insulation) and thread through the grommet. Do this for all connections. Then, once you have decided on the correct length of cable to be run from the grommet to the sender, plug it in and start neatening it up with split tubing and cable ties. Step 6: All that is left is the connections in the passenger foot-well. This simply involves connecting all the sender extension cables to their respective gauge wires, and connecting the power and lighting circuits. Below is a rough schematic of what the circuit needs to achieve. I personally made a small Jiffy box set-up to house all of the lighting and power circuit. It also supports the potentiometer and fuses. Each of the gauges incoming supplies should be fused (as per instructions) with a 1A fuse. When making the connections it is important to leave the fuses out. This will ensure that there are no stray voltages reaching the gauges prematurely. Finish: There you have it, all done. Now just examine your good work and see how it runs. The potentiometer if you haven't figured it out is to match the lights to your dash, just turn it until you hit the right spot. Good luck. #NOTES# Currently I am investigating a better power source. I used the Cigarette lighter supply but it appear that it cuts out during start-up thus interrupting the calibration process. I also will advise that undertaking this work is at your own risk! Thanks, Gus.