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Was wondering if anyone has any idea what this clicking sound could be? noticed it when my car was idling the other day while I was at a friends. Thanks IMG_0807.MOV

hey guys welcome to my blog on the modifying of my 2008 FG falcon XT. this car was a recent purchase for me and is my first car. I have a lot on the list of things I would like to do, like swapping the XT interior for the better XR interior, lowering springs, tinting the windows and so fourth. I hope you will have fun following along with me on this story as I will be having working on it. if you have any suggestion or have ideas on how I could do things better feel free to comment. thanks!

Hello I'm about to buy either a G6ET or XR6T in about 5 months time. Considering they're the same price, which one would you choose and WHY? Also, is the G6ET slower than the XR6T to 100km/hr because the lack of LSD? From what I have gathered on other sites, there is not much of a difference.. but the only difference is racing around a track and hanging 'better skids'. - PS, I don't intend on racing around a track or skidding, so would LSD really make that much of an impact in everyday driving? I would give it a go if a Expensive Daewoo SS/GTS or anything else tried to overtake me though. Thaks

New Ford GT fellas! Looks pretty sexy. "The Ford GT is back. And then some. Taking all the headlines at the Detroit motor show - and confirming some tasty rumours that have been rumbling for a little while now - is the third iteration of Ford's supercar. And gone is the supercharged V8 of old, replaced by an Ecoboost engine. Fear not, though, as it still packs a proper amount of cylinders. A twin-turbo 3.5-litre V6 engine drives the rear wheels with ‘more than' 600bhp, and with motorsport development behind it, Ford is claiming great efficiency. Of course, it's performance we care about. Nothing's confirmed in that area just yet, but a 0-60mph time close to 3.0secs and a top speed north of 200mph ought to be very feasible targets. There's plenty to help it on its way too, with lots of carbon fibre to keep the weight down. A carbon passenger cell, a la McLaren 650S and P1, is joined by carbon in chassis components too. "The GT will exhibit one of the best power-to-weight ratios of any production car", Ford promises. Aerodynamics play a huge role, as you may be able to tell from styling way more intricate and involved than the rather retro-tastic GT of ten years ago. Keeping pace with its key rivals - and with Ferrari's spectacular 458 clearly in mind - there are active aero elements, including a rear wing whose height and angle react to speed and conditions. Other goodies? There's racing-inspired pushrod suspension, adjustable ride height and upward-swinging doors. The old GT's manual transmission is gone, rather inevitably replaced by a seven-speed paddleshifter, while the driver environment very much takes its cues from what Ferrari's currently doing; a fully customisable instrument display sits behind a steering wheel free of stalks but festooned with buttons, while the seat is fixed, the pedals and wheel adjustable instead. You have to admit, it looks brilliant. It'll land at some point in 2016, by which time the new turbo 458 and 911 GT3 RS will be here, as well as the new Honda NSX and McLaren Sports Series. What a group test that would be..." http://www.topgear.com/uk/car-news/ford-gt-detroit-motor-show-2015-01-12

Hey Guys, First off I'm looking to buy a first car that I can work on and muck around with and do up how I please, I've always been predominately Ford man ( Not to say that I don't like Holdens') but for a first car I want it to be meaningful and what better way to do this then to buy an XR6!! But I'm tossing and turning over the issue of a Ute or a Sedan, I've seen good mods and ideas for both but what better than to ask people who know about it! So please give me your thoughts, pros, cons and all the good stuff Enjoy!

Looking at putting 1.5-2" lowering blocks in the back end. It's a 2008 fg xr6 turbo. I'm unsure if I have to change shocks and a few other things, and I've also heard that it doesn't do no good to the tail shaft

Hey guys, the name is Sam I just stumbled across this forum and thought, what a great place to get advice, I'm don't know too much about cars due to being new to the car scene. I just turned 18 two days ago, I own a 2003 BA xr6, everything is stock currently. I have been driving this xr6 since I first started on my L plates, I know the car fairly well. However I'd like more power. I am starting to look at exhausts and extractors.. Is there any other things I could do to look at some decent power increases? Please include brands that you would recommend. Please no comments like "if you want power get an xr6 turbo" or "just wait for yours full license"... It's my money and I'd like to spend it on what makes me happy Cheers. - Sam PS. attaching a photo of my Baby

hello all so my now that ive had my xr tuned up, affected my warranty, now the problems start to flood in!! 2 years stock,3 months with 300kw now its gotta desont list of problems turbo manifold bolt broken 858.00 timing cover oil leak 1381.12 replace rear dif mounts/ bushes, diff reseal and replace left hand rear diff out put seal 1605.31 turbo leaking oil 82.50 front brake pads 236.04 total $4162.97 my plan is to go em for warranty I haven't touched the turbo or the manifold or the timing cover , I have increased power so I might leave out the diff and the bushes wont be covered anyway and ill do the brakes my self .ill get Aitkenvale auto and dyno to do the rest they said itll be about 800-1000 to do the diff so what does everyone think of the prices they quoted I think its very expencive and could some one please tag a link on hear so I can have a look at whats involved in resealin the timing belt cover thanks you help is appreciated

Hi Everyone, Checkout www.trackdayclub.com.au We run street car focused track days to enjoy cars like ours! It's a great opportunity to drive fast, hang out with like minded people and test your car. The next track day is Saturday August 24th 2013 Included is the morning track walk, Driver coaches, who will ride with you and share their expertise, timing and un-timed passengers sessions, morning tea and we also run a dedicated session for the girls. Our aim is to create a club environment of passionate car people and to provide a respectful arena to drive our pride and joy. If you have any questions please let me know

Hi Ive just got a stock 2010 fg xr6 turbo now I wanna mod it. Its only done 47xxx Kms what should I do and what brands should I get please help thanks. .Flash tune .injectors .fuel pump .exhuast .intercooler .vavle springs

Topic was brought up in the VF Commodore thread and I thought it would be interesting to see just where our allegiances lie on this forum. Myself I was always more of a Holden fan until the first XR6 Turbo. I dont really have a solid allegiance as I like most performance vehicles all in their own right.

Hello I own a ford xr6 ba 2004 and it is missing in low revs when it gose over 2500 around there it stops but it is really annoying me what do you guys think is wrong with it?

HEY GUYS! love this site. Well im new and im new to ford, just bought a brand new xr6 2012 mkII 6 speed manual sedan for $33 500, 21kms on it straight out of factory.. Its fast, but im noticing it stutters, like it wants to go harder but the mods it got are limiting it, now I dont know anything about fords, im skyline fan. lol But what should I get for it? I heard K&N fliters and cold air intake, new exhast 2.5 cat back, a tune and I was told a underpully doesnt do anything :S and that's all I know. Any ideas? im all ears and I want to learn this car I got the cash easy blow 20k on it lol fcking love it so fcking much. Kinitic Blue paint. By the way cuz its new, if I mod it, will the warrianty get voided? Thanks guys!!! P plater by the way...

Car: 2011 FG Xr6 Turbo - Dealer Demo. Colour: Nitro Blue Kilometers: 20k Modifications: Stock. Cost: 35k Body: Ute. Use: Daily / track drifter. About me: Im Chris Findlay, im 18 years old from Noosa Queensland, yep that makes me a P-Plater... I have an unfinished project car currently sitting in my shed awaiting its finish.. Its a 1982 Ke70 Corolla.. It has been built with the purpose and intentions to be used for drifting, I have spent roughly 25k on it to date, and it is pretty highly modified, with everything from brand new leather bucket seats, momo steering wheel, 4age 16v Quad throttle engine conversion with 250hp at the flywheel, coilovers strut braces, sway bars, sunroof, ae86 break upgrade all the way to 4 link trailing arms etc.. Hey guys, im new here so first thing I thought I would to was post a thread on my new car.. As you have read above its a 2011 XR6T, im yet to see it in the flesh as I work away and I purchased it from Victoria, had it shipped over here to Queensland, where it has been parked in my garage until I get home tomorrow night (Sunday 14/10/11), I bought the car from Hillis Motor Group, they were awesome to deal with, and the offer 100% perfect customer service. This ute has been purchased for the intention of use as a daily driver, but due to me only being home 9 days, 12 times a year (I work a 28 on 9 off rotation) Im extremely keen to take it to Queensland Raceway when I can for the occasional drift night.. I have the car booked in for this coming Thursday at Tint-A-Car to receive the darkest legal Octane tint, which should look awesome. First thing Monday morning I am debadging the boot and side skirts of the car, although it is still registered as a turbo vehicle, and insured with Just Car insurance as turbo.. I have a cunning plan which has worked for mates with high powered turbo vehicles on their Provisional licence to allow me to drive this vehicle without any hassle from the Police and its simple.. My local mechanic gave me a full receipt for labor and necessary parts for a "TURBO REMOVAL" back dated to the afternoon the vehicle was delivered to my house.. I will simply place this receipt in the glove box for use when needed.. Also I am going to do my best to hide the turbo (Although it is lower-mounted which is pretty hidden already) with metal heat shielding.. So far I have purchased a few bits and bobs to give this car some hidden potential.. Below is a list of what I have purchased so to date.. Tein super street coilover and suspension package for front and rear - http://performance.fulcrumsuspensions.com.au/index.php?option=com_vehiclefilter&filter=product&Itemid=250&car_id=26&part_number=QSJ48-EZAS3FG Black angel eye styled headlights - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/260967758972?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_3089wt_1139 Complete Headlight, fog light, tail light, number plate lamp and interior light white HID Bulb kit - http://www.facebook.com/gchidsandcarcustoms?fref=ts Rota GTR-D Wheels 18x9.5 +25 5x114.3 All round in Matte Black - http://www.rotashop.co.uk/Rota+GTR-D_c33739_33741_67993.htm White line front and rear adjustable sway bars for that extra stiffness and stability - (Front end) http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=BFF54Z (Rear end) http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=BFR42Z In the near future I plan to do some modifications such as the following 4" dump to 3" exhaust system with Varex interchangeable twin setting exhaust - Bigger Cam's - X3 Flash Tuner - Bride Low Max Fixed back Bucket seats - Full Sound system install with twin slimline 12" subs mounted behind the front seats - Larger injectors - F6 front bumper and that is about it.. So that's about it for now, I look forward to posting with updates and photos of my car as soon as possible, thanks for reading, Chris.

hi, well I have bought a new HOLSET HX50 Pro Series 700hp Turbo with GARRETT T04 rear housing with a T4 flange, my problem is that the EX/Manifold is a T3 flange and I dont want to replace it with an aftermarket MF so if you guys have any idea how I can keep the stock manifold but get the new turbo on and also get wastegate onto the setup somehow to AND a custom dump pipe that will suit both a 3.5" exhaust and the turbo.. lol any ideas/pics of your own setups would be GREAT! thanks guys. oan

Hey All, Is anyone from the forum planning on heading up to Darwin for the Skycity Triple Crown? I know a convoy of Ford fans do follow them up, but just wondering if anyone from here is coming up, would be good to meet fellow XR6Turbo.com forum members.

TODAY WHILE DRIVING IN THE RAIN I PUT THE WIPERS ON ONLY TO SEE THAT THE BRAKE SYSTEM MALFUNCTION WARNING LIGHT CAME ON. ONCE I TURNED THE WIPERS OFF THE LIGHT WENT OFF. NOT SURE IF IT IS EARTHING, WIRING ETC... NEED TO FIND OUT WHAT PROBLEM IS.

Hey guys.. Just a quickie.....Is it worth the money Dynamating the front doors in a BF Ute. I do have a set of MB Quartz splits with a 10" sub in the back tray. I've heard people say it makes a huge difference. What is this difference they're refering to.

DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly-stained heirloom piece you were drying. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned guitar calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, "YEOWW SHOOOT...." ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age. SKIL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters. Most often the tool used by all women BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. WELDING GLOVES: Heavy duty leather gloves used to prolong the conduction of intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of. WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2 inch socket you've been searching for the last 45 minutes TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. EIGHT-FOOT LONG YELLOW PINE 2X4: Used for levering an automobile upward off of a trapped hydraulic jack handle. TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters and wire wheel wires. E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit. It snaps neatly off in bolt holes thereby ending any possible future use. RADIAL ARM SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to scare neophytes into choosing another line of work. TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect. CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 24-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A very large pry bar that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle. AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw. TROUBLE LIGHT: The home mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids and for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws. AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts which were last over tightened 30 years ago by someone at VW, and instantly rounds off their heads. Also used to quickly snap off lug nuts. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part. HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent to the object we are trying to hit. Women primarily use it to make gaping holes in walls when hanging pictures. MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use. DAMMIT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling "DAMMIT" at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.