XR6TTUB

have you attempted to bring the vehicle to a reputable shop to diagnose? if you did what was the outcome or diagnosis?

I see that figure all the time, only time is runs great is cold start to about the 1st line on the temp gauge (around 60-70c) after that the misfire/missing comes along, at times it would run awesome when hot, at times it just does it (mind you it is irregular aswell) As a mechanic myself, I've never encountered anything to this magnitude. Usually,when it starts to pull timing (retarded) then something has set if off and off it goes into limp mode (first thing I looked at was the knock sensor) swapped that out and nothing changed I've got like 4 sets of coils sitting in my spare parts drawer, 2 sets of standard injectors,7 TPS and 3 whole Tb's changed the fuel pressure regulator,new fuel filter and next will be fuel pump (only hard thing to test, as its hard to get fuel pressure tester hooked up) tested oil pressure and that was @ factory reccomendations Tested for headgasket leak with testers etc Compression test 200psi all 4 leak down test within 5% To be honest with you, Only thing I cant think of is 1.Issues with ecu, faulty Injector or coil driver 2.Internal mechanical issues, burnt valve etc hence why I was saying to keith , I have no more hair to pull out LOL kenny

does you car shudder or misfire at idle aswell?

I never had cam errors murdok Never had any errors or codes whatsoever which makes it more baffling checked the timing chain and marks last weekend and everything is spot-on (even the coloured links lined up) still doesnt explain why timing at idle is at -10 to -11deg

honestly keith, I've got no hair left to pull out I should bring my car to a reputable workshop and get them to sort it out, but I've got the male ego (I can sort it out and fix it myself) but it seems like I'm going downhill instead up kenny

I was thinking the exact same thing, because the ground straps look sandblasted + grainy back to the drawing board

fixed I hope

Evening all! My spark plugs were due, so I pulled the old ones out and in with the new! But to my amazement, the plugs looked weird (I've never seen such thing in countless car's I've worked on) If someone can shed some light, would be much appreciated Trying to sort this stupid misfire @idle when HOT Below are some pictures I've taken from a potato phone Kenny hope links work

Nope, intake manifold gaskets are all new and tested no vacuum leaks the only thing I’ve got my fingers pointing at atm is the pcm/tune looks like someone has played or tampered with the tune to make it more fuel efficient as timing is pulled quite a fair bit

Ahhh bugger So this isn't contributing to my stupid idle' Keep digging I guess

G’evening all im just poking around my engine bay looking for vacuum leaks,I had this idea in my head disconnecting the vct solenoids whilst car is idling to see if it makes a difference whilst the car is idling, I disconnected one at a time, and then both at the same time,didn’t make any difference to idle whatsoever so my question is, disconnecting the OCV/VCT solenoids, should it affect timing at idle? Cause at the moment, seems like my VCT solenoids are doing squat (which then tells me it’s pulling timing at idle to about -9.14 deg which in turns causes a stupid misfire ) kenny

Another thing before I forget. I had access to some vct solenoids and thought why not throw them in and see if it makes any difference I had one issue with them, one on the engine seemed thinner without any filter screens and ones I had to replace them with are thicker and has filter screens

Thanks for the quick responses ladies and gents o2 sensor is still the old one, haven’t replaced it yet as the values don’t go over or under reccomended values ive Rescently replaced the cams with some later model bf cams as I had the dreaded ticking and tapping noise on cold start. Sorted that problem out though so when I was changing the cams, I lined up all the coloured links on the chain to designated marks on cam and balancer, seems everything is spot on, and the guides are intact and undamaged one quick observation though, with everything lined up hunky doory, the 2 marks stamped on cam phasers sit slightly off middle at 11 o’clock, cause if it did jump a tooth or 2 none of the coloured links would of lined up like I previously stated, sometimes car would idle fine, no hiccups. 4/10 times she would idle with a miss. dyno tuning is in process, currently getting all the bits I need before I send it off (valvesprings,injectors and fuel pump) kenny

Hello all and good evening ever since purchasing this car, I’ve been trying to fix this one and only annoying hinderence Car details ... 03 March ba xr6 turbo Ute with 5 speed manual symptom.. cold start: starts normally and smooth (no miss or abnormal behaviour) as as the temperature needle starts to climb, she starts to misfire,more hotter or longer I drive it, it gets more irregular. Alao sometimes, whilst idling and misfiring away, she would stumble,revs drop and pick up again now, I’ve Done numerous test on the vehicle and it all seems to be within factory/workshop manual specifications oil pressure - 60psi cold and 50-60 warm new coils and plugs new fuel reg new fuel filter new throttle body and updated TPS another set of known working injectors all new baskets around (hot and cold side) im a mechanic by trade, so this issue has me stumped. I’ve been diagnosing this issue for the last 2 months, but I can’t seem to replicate or trigger a change whilst doing so on my scan tool with live data, it seems to pull timing at idle and below is some data to look into VCTADV(VCT ADVANCE ERROR -9.13 VCTADV2(VARIABLE CAM TIMING 2 ADVANCE ERROR) -9.63 VCTADVERR(VCT ADVANCE ERROR) -0.69 VCTADVERR2(VARIABLE CAM TIMING 2 ADVANCE ERROR) 0 VCTDC(VARIABLE CAMSHAFT TIMING DUTY CYCLE) 0 VCTDC2(VARIABLE CAMSHAFT TIMING 2 DUTY CYCLE) 0 hope someone can shed some light, also as a sidenote, car rev thru rev range smoothly (no misfire) ecu previously look like someone has tampered with it and the numbers on the side of PCM have been changed as I googled the numbers and came up with a F6 typhoon PCM kenny

Alrighty!! Just a quick update for everyone and anyone who is curious what the issue was. I went and purchased another set of camshafts (later model BF-FG camshafts) and measure the lobes (peaks of lobes etc) This made it very evident that the pitting and spalling of cams are signs of bad wear, causing the lobes to "flatten" So, conclusion is, if the engine has top end knock It'll be the worn cams or bad roller lifters (in my case camshafts were bad) all power is restored! and I don't have the annoying misfire at idle anymore!!! thanks to all that have replied and tried to help, Very Much Appreciated! Kenny