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XR6TTUB

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Everything posted by XR6TTUB

  1. have you attempted to bring the vehicle to a reputable shop to diagnose? if you did what was the outcome or diagnosis?
  2. I see that figure all the time, only time is runs great is cold start to about the 1st line on the temp gauge (around 60-70c) after that the misfire/missing comes along, at times it would run awesome when hot, at times it just does it (mind you it is irregular aswell) As a mechanic myself, I've never encountered anything to this magnitude. Usually,when it starts to pull timing (retarded) then something has set if off and off it goes into limp mode (first thing I looked at was the knock sensor) swapped that out and nothing changed I've got like 4 sets of coils sitting in my spare parts drawer, 2 sets of standard injectors,7 TPS and 3 whole Tb's changed the fuel pressure regulator,new fuel filter and next will be fuel pump (only hard thing to test, as its hard to get fuel pressure tester hooked up) tested oil pressure and that was @ factory reccomendations Tested for headgasket leak with testers etc Compression test 200psi all 4 leak down test within 5% To be honest with you, Only thing I cant think of is 1.Issues with ecu, faulty Injector or coil driver 2.Internal mechanical issues, burnt valve etc hence why I was saying to keith , I have no more hair to pull out LOL kenny
  3. does you car shudder or misfire at idle aswell?
  4. I never had cam errors murdok Never had any errors or codes whatsoever which makes it more baffling checked the timing chain and marks last weekend and everything is spot-on (even the coloured links lined up) still doesnt explain why timing at idle is at -10 to -11deg
  5. honestly keith, I've got no hair left to pull out I should bring my car to a reputable workshop and get them to sort it out, but I've got the male ego (I can sort it out and fix it myself) but it seems like I'm going downhill instead up kenny
  6. I was thinking the exact same thing, because the ground straps look sandblasted + grainy back to the drawing board
  7. Evening all! My spark plugs were due, so I pulled the old ones out and in with the new! But to my amazement, the plugs looked weird (I've never seen such thing in countless car's I've worked on) If someone can shed some light, would be much appreciated Trying to sort this stupid misfire @idle when HOT Below are some pictures I've taken from a potato phone Kenny hope links work
  8. Nope, intake manifold gaskets are all new and tested no vacuum leaks the only thing I’ve got my fingers pointing at atm is the pcm/tune looks like someone has played or tampered with the tune to make it more fuel efficient as timing is pulled quite a fair bit
  9. Ahhh bugger So this isn't contributing to my stupid idle' Keep digging I guess
  10. G’evening all im just poking around my engine bay looking for vacuum leaks,I had this idea in my head disconnecting the vct solenoids whilst car is idling to see if it makes a difference whilst the car is idling, I disconnected one at a time, and then both at the same time,didn’t make any difference to idle whatsoever so my question is, disconnecting the OCV/VCT solenoids, should it affect timing at idle? Cause at the moment, seems like my VCT solenoids are doing squat (which then tells me it’s pulling timing at idle to about -9.14 deg which in turns causes a stupid misfire ) kenny
  11. Another thing before I forget. I had access to some vct solenoids and thought why not throw them in and see if it makes any difference I had one issue with them, one on the engine seemed thinner without any filter screens and ones I had to replace them with are thicker and has filter screens
  12. Thanks for the quick responses ladies and gents o2 sensor is still the old one, haven’t replaced it yet as the values don’t go over or under reccomended values ive Rescently replaced the cams with some later model bf cams as I had the dreaded ticking and tapping noise on cold start. Sorted that problem out though so when I was changing the cams, I lined up all the coloured links on the chain to designated marks on cam and balancer, seems everything is spot on, and the guides are intact and undamaged one quick observation though, with everything lined up hunky doory, the 2 marks stamped on cam phasers sit slightly off middle at 11 o’clock, cause if it did jump a tooth or 2 none of the coloured links would of lined up like I previously stated, sometimes car would idle fine, no hiccups. 4/10 times she would idle with a miss. dyno tuning is in process, currently getting all the bits I need before I send it off (valvesprings,injectors and fuel pump) kenny
  13. Hello all and good evening ever since purchasing this car, I’ve been trying to fix this one and only annoying hinderence Car details ... 03 March ba xr6 turbo Ute with 5 speed manual symptom.. cold start: starts normally and smooth (no miss or abnormal behaviour) as as the temperature needle starts to climb, she starts to misfire,more hotter or longer I drive it, it gets more irregular. Alao sometimes, whilst idling and misfiring away, she would stumble,revs drop and pick up again now, I’ve Done numerous test on the vehicle and it all seems to be within factory/workshop manual specifications oil pressure - 60psi cold and 50-60 warm new coils and plugs new fuel reg new fuel filter new throttle body and updated TPS another set of known working injectors all new baskets around (hot and cold side) im a mechanic by trade, so this issue has me stumped. I’ve been diagnosing this issue for the last 2 months, but I can’t seem to replicate or trigger a change whilst doing so on my scan tool with live data, it seems to pull timing at idle and below is some data to look into VCTADV(VCT ADVANCE ERROR -9.13 VCTADV2(VARIABLE CAM TIMING 2 ADVANCE ERROR) -9.63 VCTADVERR(VCT ADVANCE ERROR) -0.69 VCTADVERR2(VARIABLE CAM TIMING 2 ADVANCE ERROR) 0 VCTDC(VARIABLE CAMSHAFT TIMING DUTY CYCLE) 0 VCTDC2(VARIABLE CAMSHAFT TIMING 2 DUTY CYCLE) 0 hope someone can shed some light, also as a sidenote, car rev thru rev range smoothly (no misfire) ecu previously look like someone has tampered with it and the numbers on the side of PCM have been changed as I googled the numbers and came up with a F6 typhoon PCM kenny
  14. Alrighty!! Just a quick update for everyone and anyone who is curious what the issue was. I went and purchased another set of camshafts (later model BF-FG camshafts) and measure the lobes (peaks of lobes etc) This made it very evident that the pitting and spalling of cams are signs of bad wear, causing the lobes to "flatten" So, conclusion is, if the engine has top end knock It'll be the worn cams or bad roller lifters (in my case camshafts were bad) all power is restored! and I don't have the annoying misfire at idle anymore!!! thanks to all that have replied and tried to help, Very Much Appreciated! Kenny
  15. Gday all! Here is another video I took early morning yesterday, In this video the ticking,tapping noise is VERY evident My theory to this noise ATM is Camshaft worn (pitted and spalled camshaft lobes) worse only @ 5-6 cylinders Might try and find some standard XR6T items and investigate more Bottom end is quiet hot or cold, Only the cylinder produces the noises (using a doctors type stethoscope and electronic ear) Kenny https://youtu.be/mgXM6V3WNyg
  16. In the mornings with cold start, it sounds like this video (another owner experiencing the same issue) I was bored after work today and took out my stethoscope to try and pinpoint the noise,front timing case is quiet,front of valve cover is quiet, intake manifold @5-6 cylinder gets a little noisier, cylinder head and valve cover @ cylinders 5-6 are most affected.   Trying to narrow down the possibilities, when I first purchased the car, the turbo (compressor blades and housing were lunched) seem s like a rock or nut was in there causing damage to the blades. Now, with the turbo spinning really fast, that nut/bolt or rock would've been hacked up and went into the engine. My first possibility is damaged intake valves (if valves were shot, I wouldn't have any compression in 1 or a few cylinders) but then again it does explain the rough/misfire at idle (fine when driving)   On the way home from work, I came up to my exit off the freeway and got off, sat at the traffic lights listening to the radio. Out of no where the car just misfired (about to stall) and rims jumped up again.    I'm completely lost here, maybe someone out there has a recommendation for a workshop that specialises in this type of vehicle/engine, I'm located in Melbourne Victoria, out towards the western suburbs. Only issue I have is I can't make it during business hours as I start pretty early and finish 7pm, Saturdays would work aswell   A few xr6 turbo owners have recommended dyno-mite, located near me aswell, anyone heard or have experiences with them?   kenny
  17. Also forgot to mention, it has new turbo to manifold gasket and exhaust manifold gasket,dump pipe gasket is also new
  18. Thanks for the quick replies The powersteering pump is a little noisy and ive got a new belt to put on, what ill do is remove the belt and video a cold start so the noise is a little more evident Turbo is from an FG xr6T
  19. G'day ladies and gentlemen (Evening is more appropriate I guess loll) I've recently purchased a 2003 BA XR6T Ute Manual in Mecury Silver, first Ford I've ever owned (Correction*First Ford was a Turbo TX5 back 16 years ago). My poor XR6T recently started to develop a strange tick/knock/tapping noise, I've tried everything up my sleeves to try and rectify the problem but to no avail I've failed time and time again In the mornings with cold starts, noise is evident and loud, tap tap tap tap but when the engine hits operating temperature it really wonders off and subsides (5 out of 10 times, you wouldn't be able to hear it at all cold or hot) Car idles weird when @ operating temp,idles a little lumpy like my stage 1 cam 180sx, but more irregular (not like a misfire) Other then the symptoms above, car drives and boost's normally, Compression tested 200-205psi across all cylinders (highest was 205psi lowest was 200psi) I'm a mechanic by trade and have never come across this situation ever New Parts Fitted *New genuine ford coils *New rocker arms/Lifters (HLAS) *New fuel filter *Used working throttle body with tps *New air filter *New Garrett FG turbo *New T/B gasket *Fresh 10w60 penrite fully syn oil with Ryco z9 filter SIDENOTE: Both exhaust and intake cams have rusted pitting and spalling on lobes, more evident on 1-2 5-6 cylinders (I guess the Car had been sitting around for sometime) as I've been rocking back and forth thinking about the pitting and spalling of the cams causing excessive clearance issues maybe? (I did use a cheap digital caliper to measure a few of the lobes, some were @ least .05-.10mm bigger and smaller) I've order a new set of plugs(genuine ford) as the ones in the car now are NGK AND they are leaking (compression leaking, Noticed when hand turning engine) I'm stumped! someone help before I pull more hair out. I've attached a video in regards to the noise (engine had sat for 1-2 hours,so it isnt as loud) I will upload other video's to outline the annoying knock/ticking noise Kenny
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