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4321 last won the day on April 25

4321 had the most liked content!

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  1. DIY ZF transmission cooler and kit

    The lines are 12 or 13mm Have a look in jets thread there's heaps of info (recently) about how he does his installs (with pictures! -pretty good install too)
  2. I reckon that aaron is right, only the turbo has a oil temp switch (and the wiring to plug into it) If you were to run it oil would come out the drain back hole so to me , like arron said, the na exhaust was put on for handling purpose's. The inlet manifold has no broadband stuff which is also turbo only
  3. The sumps are the same just the casting is drilled & tapped. On a turbo head & block are the same. Exhaust valves ,springs, rods & pistons are different none of which you can see from the outside.
  4. boost at 14 at idle

    As the turbo builds boost ( which it shouldn't at idle) the pressure goes down the hose to the actuator, which is about 7 psi standard, when the actuator see's 7 psi it should move the actuator which opens the flap allowing the exhaust gas's to bypass the exhaust wheel which should stop the compressor wheel from making more boost. The turbo needs a fair amount of exhaust flow to make it work, you won't get this at idle & probably not even at light cruise but when you start to accelerate you should start to see boost. Stick a boost guage on & take it for a drive & if it goes over 7psi back of the accelerator & drive it like a busted slug to your tuner!
  5. Clunk in rear of BA sedan

    If you want a drive to Campbelltown on gumtree ba diff & cradle with IMS hat $1500
  6. FG N/A Engine into BA Checklist

    valve springs & what are you going to do about the comp? (pistons are different)
  7. G6ET knocking

    I'm guessing a noisy lifter, but why did you have the sump off? Check the rocker cover for leaks along the drivers side down onto the exhaust IS it the same oil that you normally use? Perhaps try a different brand/ grade of oil before you start pulling things apart Next to the oil filter is the oil temp switch take this out & fit a guage to check your oil pressure perhaps the oil pickup has come loose of the pump. first up redo the oil & filter & go from there
  8. Leak help!

    With the stalling issue thrown into the symptoms Id check afr's but I'm thinking cam timing. With no turbo on the engine at all it shouldn't stall so at this stage I wouldn't look there which either leaves a tuning issue or a mechanical fault You've checked compression so no bent valves or pistons, check what the fuel is doing & if that's reasonable move on to spark but I would expect it to miss, then check your valve timing but start with the fuel system (with a scan tool it's easier- AFR's STFT etc..) The stalling issue is what is the biggest symptom to find out why (I'm suspecting a mechanical fault )
  9. Had this on mine, assuming its the same it nearly plugged in but after a 'trim' of the side lugs with a razor blade it plugged in & never turned the light on.
  10. Fz auto slipping when cold

    First thing I would check is the fluid level!
  11. Remove intake piping

    It is a thin 22mm nut inside the rubber at the top & bottom. Either a spanner or a pair of multigrips will work but you have to be square on the nut because it is so thin
  12. fg engine rebuild

    It's in & running fine, started at 5am this morning & in & running at 1.30! dropped the whole lot out the bottom & changed every thing over to the new engine. That went smooth but changing the radiator- what a crap job (worse than BA_BF) have pics will upload later. Thanks for all the advice!
  13. fg engine rebuild

    Engine's back, mostly went with JETS suggestions, JE pistons (+0.020) scat rods, arp studs (head & main) atomic oil pump gears & cover (ported myself after brad said where to enlarge) atomic chain, guides & bottom cog, balancer & flex plate. Torque plate bored & honed , file back rings straighten crankshaft (!) plaz valve springs, ford exhaust valves & head gasket & new heat exchanger. It's mostly back together & intending to change it over this weekend
  14. The blocks are mostly the same (dipstick position in fg's different) Get another mtr ( wreckers get $50 in scrap for them), put some S/H fg rods & pistons in it, a good set of oil pump gears, new timing chain set & you will have a good base to build of. Or buy a new fg short from ford, redrill the dipstick hole & use that. first option is cheaper (see if eff xr6t has pistons to go with the rods) Building a tough engine isn't cheap (I'm doing it at the moment & it makes the $12 grand atomic mtr good value)
  15. See if you can find a mobile thread repair ( there will be one all the workshops know of someone) He will come out & helicoil the bolt holes or you can go to repco or bursons & buy a kit & do it your self. The kit will come the right drill bit, the coils & the spanner. I don't know about changing the cam caps, aren't they supposed to be align honed? (but if you gotta do what you gotta do...)

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