Jump to content


4321

Member
  • Content count

    59
  • Donations

    $0.00 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

23 Excellent

Recent Profile Visitors

802 profile views
  1. Warped manifold

    Iv'e never been a big fan of machining relatively thin parts like this (and brake rotors) they are 'X' thick & they bent & now you machine them down to 'Y' and expect to last as long? Try a gasket between the turbo & manifold with new studs & nuts, new ford gasket for manifold & head, torque it up as JET said and there's a pretty good chance it will be good. As a maintenance thing they should be checked for correct torque every 2nd or 3rd service
  2. Typhoon or xr6 turbo

    The block has to have a engine no. on it, that will give you the VIN of the car it came out of (just add 6FPAAA to the frount of it) Just be aware the block has to have the dipstick hole in the right position to match your car (ba/bf at the frount, fg at the rear) or your drilling a new hole for it. I agree with everyone, while your there chuck some decent rods in it at least,if you don't & kneed them down the track- another rebuild to put them in. Kinda makes it cheaper to put them in now
  3. Low power and loss of power

    Carby spray works good to, have the pipe on so you can direct it, where ever it's sucked in the engine will run rough, plus it dries clean (but it does attack paint, after all it is nail polish remover)
  4. 03bacr6t

    The temp guage is not marked with actual numbers so it's hard to work out what 1/2 is in actual temp. Isnt the coolant temp a calculated no. derived from the cyl. head temp? ( on old kingswood's when they went to ADR27a a lot of them came back with overheating, the dealers fix? bend the needle on the temp guage- overheating fixed!) My point is it's a mental thing where the needle sits, Like has been mentioned, if it worries you change the thermostat & retune or just use the reading as a guide as to whats going on
  5. spark plug condition?

    This might be old fashioned but stick a vacuum guage on it, pick up vac from a central point (not from pressure reg) At idle it should be reasonably steady- not fluttering, you'll need a cheap vac guage not a boost/vac guage because they do not respond quick enough. Check your idle reading then bring the revs up to about 2000, drop back to idle & see if you instantly get the same reading not needle flicking & then settling down All things being right it should hold a steady reading at idle if the engine is mechanically sound, a low reading is in the tune (you've checked the valve timing & done a compression check) If the needle flutters & then settles down look at valve seating (springs/ guides etc) If it had a burnt valve it would show up in the comp test. Plug the scan tool back in & start going through live data to see what the ecu is seeing from the knock /o2/ map sensors you might be chasing a crook earth. By looking at live data you are seeing what the ecu is seeing & I find this helps with diagnosing the problem
  6. 2013 Mk II Ford Turbo

    I'd stick with the 1000's, purely because when you want more power (and don't kid yourself you will) you will have to chuck the injectors & buy 1000's anyway, so why buy twice?. Change the cat & dump, injectors, close the plug gaps tune (hp tuners will be cheaper & work fine) I'm not a fan of cooler thermostats for economy reasons but each to his own. Later down the track a better intercooler & pump. that's my stage 1 after this get your wallet ready!
  7. Good FG auto electrician in Sydney?

    Ring joe, tell him whats going on & get a quote of him & if you need any parts he can just bring them with him. He has all the equipment for testing & programing the modules (I dont know about the ECU but ask )
  8. Good FG auto electrician in Sydney?

    Try FPV JOE, he advertises on gumtree & he does a lot of mobile work for workshops all over sydney 0452460708
  9. Please help!!

    Ba/Bf poverty packs had a resistor under the drivers seat to let the bcm think that there was a airbag there so I'd recon it wouldn't be to hard to adapt that
  10. Fg passenger door not locking

    BA-BF are prone to problems with the actuator (door lock) but FG's dont normaly have this problem. New actuator & get it fitted
  11. In the sedans the rear vent below the tail light needs glueing down, remove the side trim & discover how it's only held on by 2 plastic clips (I think they intended for the trim to push up against it to stop it rattling )
  12. fg won't boost

    The actuator should hold the waste gate shut, assuming it's a 12 psi actuator it should take 12 psi down the vac hose to force the waste gate open bypassing the exhaust gas from the turbine & therefore stopping the turbine from spinning fast enough to make decent boost. Check that the actuator is fully up (you might have to measure another one) to check weather the waste gate is shut. If you unbolt the dump pipe you can see in there. But my bet its the rubber hose on the t/body
  13. fg won't boost

    Undo the outlet pipe from the turbo. find a old inner tube & cut out the valve stem with enough of the rubber to clamp around the outlet pipe, put your compressor on to the valve stem & presurize the inter cooler & piping system ( I use about 30 psi) & listen for air leaks It should hold most of the pressure If it pass's this test look at the turbo.
  14. Jet's Tuning ( Oh No )

    happy birthday ! and your a bloody good shot!
  15. HELP! Car breakdown and popping after traction loss

    Where do you start? Regap plugs, by all means put a new set of FORD coils in it, a blocked cat, wastegate stuck open, etc... What code dose the o2 sensor throw? to rich or to lean? air filter blocked? Do the basics first.


FordXR6Turbo.com Powered by Invision Community

×