Specs

Depends on how good your diff was assembled (be it factory or aftermarket rebuild) I have superpro hd bushes in my near stock fg and the only noise I get is a humming dead on 80km/h, whilst a mate has a full moded fg with a trutrac centre and his is quieter then stock bushes with the superpro hd. I have a manual and noticed a significant difference when taking off from a standstill, it feels a lot firmer (in a good way) in the way it transmits the power and they have made the clunks go away as well as reduce axle tramp.

Argh it didn't work best pic is in "bling it up" thread pic 2 is where Im talking about the power steering step

because my computer is being gay and stuffing up I have to post the link this way

and when I say make full use of the space I mean you could a thicker (then what is currently available) intercooler at the top where most of the problems seem to be ie a full 76mm core that's mounted closer to the radiator with no step as the power steering cooler would be out of the way

pwr's cooler is stepped to clear the power steering cooler from what I can see in peoples pictures and the way the mounting brackets are orientated

Hey guys you know when you have one of those light bulb moments?? up until about 5 minutes ago I just realised Ive been looking a stepped coolers the wrong way. I always thought the step was to clear the plastic rad support but its to clear the power steering cooler, so why hasn't anyone remounted the steering cooler else where to make full use of the space then you wouldn't need to chop your car up or well so much anyway. Just a thought that I would think out aloud to you guys

Hey mate great thread I enjoy reading your posts as they are so detailed. A little tip for removing the rear axle bearing put your rotor on back to front and screw 2 nuts on the studs a couple of turns then use the rotor as a slide hammer against the wheel nuts works a treat on my el

I dropped mine in first grabbed sencond foot braked it grab third no worries and let it snake down the road. I then tried it again a few weeks later with a mate in the car and wasnt quick enough on the 2nd to 3rd change and did 5000rpm with the clutch fully engaged with the speedo at 0 kmh for about 1-1.5 seconds and I havent had any dramas with mine since. The clutch was soft for a couple of mins afterwards but that was it no other problems still holds fine can do 40kmh in the dry and drop second and it doesnt slip. I bought a ski boat 2012 stephens magic on a dual axle easy tow trailer (about 1400-1500kg total) at the start of the year and towed it home to Tumut from Batemans bay up the clyde and over the hills with no slip. So unless you have destroyed your clutch and had smoke coming out of it to the point where it crys like a supercharger I wouldnt be worried and mine smelt after the attempted failled 2nd to 3rd for a couple of days aswell, of course if your running alot more then std power or upgrading power wise in the very near future I would consider it but im at 245rwkw with as I said no probs. ps Ive always found launch control best with 1 person sitting in the back in first gear with traction control on

As a lot of people have said storage and handling are critical. Im so anal that if Im halfway through torqueing something say the 6mm bolts usually found on the outside of a bike cylinder that have the same torque as the rocker cover bolts, I will finish the cylinder then unwind my wrench and go to lunch or whatever I need to do then come back and reset my wrench to the previous setting and finish the rest of the motor. When other people at my work need to borrow mine I will torque the bolts for them as I don't trust them with it lol everything else tool wise is fine but only I use my wrenches

definitely the turbo filter change your diff oil, fuel filter, brake fluid and coolant if they haven't been done yet as for the tranny cooler I cant comment as I have a manual

I have an SP 1/2 mircometer 20-200nm and 0-24nm kinchrome 1/4 (motorbike mechanic) both are great the sp cost me iirc $200

I changed mine with 30000kms on the clock and the front nipple was cross threaded at the factory thank good for thread files didn't have a die big enough. The fuel was dirty coming out of it so I cut it open to find the what should of been yellow paper was black. Standard tune car and always on 98 will do it every 15000kms now

wouldn't happen to have the inlet specs as well? this should be a sticky

ok and what about insurance I couldn't find anything up to date in the insurance topic regarding fg's I'm currently with AAMI under 25 male and if they wont cover me for stage 2 I'll have to go with pw st1 or pwr has anybody had any experience with AAMI regarding intercoolers for an fg under 25 male?

ok guys/girls my head is hurting, my eyes are spinning, my wallet not yet full enough to purchase anything and my arms are sore from leaning on the computer desk. I don't want to start a war on brand popularity I just want straight answers to some questions I didn't see asked or questions that weren't answered in other topics, from what I can see in pictures and read in info is the plazmaman stage 2 intercooler kit pipe work better then the pw st2 in the fact that the plastic throttle elbow is replaced in the plaz kit? someone please correct me if the the pw comes with this replacement as well and what is the fitment like with either kit on the cold side near the a/c line, also which has the greatest room for turbo side intakes (I have 1 already but looking to fab 1 out of alloy down the track) as the plaz looks wining hear. I've only seen a plaz face to face on a mates fg and Im pretty sure it was a st3 so Im relying on you guys/girls to help me out pics would be appreciated. Now some more questions, again not starting a war just help me get rid of some confusion size for size a bar and plate will allow for more internal air flow then a tube and fin that is less pressure drop across the core? is this correct? however less air will travel externally through a bar and plate that is your radiator will not get as much air flow as if a tube and fin was in front? is this also correct? now given this situation how much extra water temp are we talking with a bar and plate vs tube and fin? only 2 more questions, what is the throttle response like untuned just cooler vs cooler vs stock and does the extra the internal flow of a bar and plate compensate for lag that may be produced due to the larger core size in the pw st2 due to the fact that the gt3576 isn't the highest volume producing turbo around? I hope I don't start a war or add any more confusion to myself or anyone else wanting to know the same answers thanks