Sweet EB

You get the points mate.. I can't believe it destroyed the centre.. It's only done low ks but it gets a bit of a hiding..!

Hi all, been a while since I posted.. I replaced diff and car running perfect.. I have only just had a chance to pull the cover plate off the old diff.. Well, don't think a set of bearings is going to fix this problem..!

Well, removed LH half shaft and ran car in 1st again and noise is still loud as ever in the diff.. Looks like I'm up for a diff.. Not happy..!

Hi all, well finally got around to changing out the RHS wheel bearing.. Problem is still there.. No more clunks from the rear now though.. Did a bit more research about pinion preload because the symptoms match.. I got under the car today and couldn't feel any noticeable movement in the pinion itself. I started the car and ran at idle in 1st gear.. The noise is either coming from the diff or the inner cv on the half shaft on the LHS.. The weird thing is that the LH half shaft is moving around like it's bent.. The shaft itself has a wobble and looking where the shaft/cv meets the diff, it has a wobble up there.. Could the half shaft be bent or is there something inside the diff that would cause half shaft to move around like it's bent..??

Exactly the same..

Well, here's what it was.. Driver's side wheel bearing.. Completely collapsed.. Jacked car up and grabbed hold of drivers side wheel and it flopps around like it's about to fall off.. How does a wheel bearing just collapse like that.. No warning at all.. No noises leading up to or anything.. Just a bit of quick clutch our action and a fair bit of throttle... Would never have thought the wheel bearing.. Very happy that was all it was..!

Yeah unfortunately it's a sedan.. Mine has always had a bit of play.. What were you doing or happened when your diff let go..? I have done a lot worse and nothing has happened before.. I don't understand why something broke this time... Wasn't a full clutch dumb.. Was normally just enough to break traction.

No what I want to hear..! Will get a chance to have a look this arvo.. It's been killing me not having a chance to work out what's wrong.. Hoping it is just a half shaft..

Hi all, I have a BA XR6T manual. It's has a moderate power increase which has been that way for years ~250 RWKW.. I stepped off the clutch today and give it a bit and I heard a definite clunk and then a lot off woop woop noises and what sounded like loud bearing noise under coast conditions.. The bearing noise sound just like a very bad wheel bearing noise. Noise is a lot quieter when under a bit of load but gets very loud when you back off. Additional to that, when you take off from standstill, it kind of jerks the car like your pumping the brake peddle a bit while taking off. The when rolling in reverse into my driveway, it was make some pretty ugly clunking noises.. Haven't had a chance to have a look but what is everyone's thought of what it could be.. Sounds pretty bad.. Car gets driven about once a month with just over 100k on the clock.

Ok, Just finished the job. Ended up taking the turbo and exhaust manifold off. I have the support bracket so I had to take the turbo off the manifold as well as taking the exhaust manifold off. I separated the exhaust at the exhaust to dump pipe flange. I took too long trying to replace the actuator with the turbo in situ. I can't see how this can be done. Once I took the turbo off and had a look, you would have to be some kind if magician to be able to do this job with the turbo in place. The little clip holding the actuator shaft to the wastegate is sooo hard to get to. It was also totally destroyed once I had removed it. It wouldn't stay on with any confidence when I tried to re-use it. I ended up using just a conventional E clip when I put the new actuator on. Anyways, if you are thinking of attempting this job then be prepared to just take the manifold off as well as the turbo. It makes thing 10000% easier. The bottom front turbo to manifold nut can be removed easily by using a 1/4 inch drive 14mm socked on the end of a fairly lengthy extension. In all honesty, with this combination it was the easiest nut/stud to get out. All but 1 of mine had the whole stud come out with the nut attached. No easier or harder to remove/replace. Whole job was a little fiddly but definitely not hard. Be patient and most with a little mechanical savvy will do this job with ease.

20 mins...!!! Someone tell me their secrets!! I have a full array of air tools and it took me about 10 mins just to take the heat shielding etc... Any help would be greatly appreciated..

Hi All, I have a failed wastegate actuator (perforated diaphragm) causing overboost issues. I am just replacing the actuator with another new standard one. I have read that you can replace this with the turbo still on the car. I have looked over this and had an attempt and I simply can't see how you can disconnect the actuator at the wastegate end let alone reattaching the new one with a new circlip.. I have used a mirror to have a look and without being able to really see what I am doing along with only just being able to feel what I am doing I can't see how this is possible. Anyways, I have decided that I am going to remove the turbo instead to do the job. I have taken all the heat shielding off and taken all the nuts off that join the dump pipe to the exhaust housing but it doesn't appear that the dump pip has enough room to slide backwards off the studs and I am going to have to pull the turbo off with the dump pipe attached (no biggy).. If I remove the oil return line at both ends, will I be able to access the bottom front turbo to manifold nut with a socket and small extension?? Any tips would be good. This initially appeared to be a fairly easy job but is turning out to be a pain in the arse... I was wondering if there is an easy way??? Surly tuners are not having to take the turbo off to fit a higher rating actuator so there must be a trick.??? Any help would be appreciated.. PS car is a BA mk1 xr6 turbo with all standard hardware.

Hi all, I replaced both complete drive shafts yesterday. Also bought a new tail shaft centre bearing as the bush was completely non existent. Pretty certain it was the centre bearing making the noise and clunking. On the other positive note, the cv rumble with passengers in the back seams to be gone also. Pretty happy with the outcome. I didn't replace the tail shaft uni as it appeared to still be good.. Marking everything including every bolt going back into the same position so it went back together exactly as it came apart including the position of the plastic weights seems to have worked also will no vibration from the driveline at any speed. Took from a spin on the freeway this morning an is smooth as..