Swindog

Its tricky to get the fin parts out. Its quite easy to flush the I/C with water though. Just make sure you dry it out, empty with water and pump a hair dryer through it. Some workshops provide I/C flushing services. Youll have known by now if any smaller metallic parts have made it through.

Pop the front turbo hose off. Put your finger on the nut holding the front wheel. Try and lift the wheel up and down or try and push it back. If it moves more than half a mm youll have done a bearing. Its a quick check and free. The odd noise you hear is prob the fact your thrust bearing is rooted. The oil filter screen is a common prob in Subarus too. Removing them and adding a larger braided line is the best long term solution but if you are hearing noises now it might be too late, especially if its combined with excessive wheel movement on your check. Check for fin damage or wear. Also signs that the bearings are wearing and the fins some times wear on the compressor housing, normally associated with high pitch squealing from the turbo on full torque. I speak from experience. A very costly experience

How do the dash ones work if you have a case on your phone? I see on the website they are clean phones with a recess the phone sits in so looks like it wouldn't work with a case, even an ultra thin spigen.

I would assume, the amount of research into my own car the last few months it will be ok. It might be worthful while since you ll have dyno figures already, pay for a power run on the dyno and check your figure. Youll be able to tell from that if its worth a tune adjustment to suit the less back flow created. If you had standard cat and dump pipe but did a cat back, you wouldn't need a tune. Have had the turbo work done prior to replacing the cat and dump?

This is a write up from NZEFI in Christchurch NZ who mod the FG. Quite a reputable tuner of alsorts. Stage 1 – 340kW at flywheel on XR6/G6E Turbo OR 350kW at flywheel on F6-310 (approx $3600NZ) Hi-flow catalytic converterNZEFI Custom hot side intercooler pipeK&N air filterFuel injector upgrade – not required for F6-310 at this stage of modificationNGK Spark plugs (custom gapped)SCT X4 Power Flash Tuning BoxCustom NZEFI Dyno TuneStage 2 – 375kW at flywheel on XR6/G6E Turbo OR 400kW at flywheel on F6-310 (approx $6200NZ incs stage 1) Stage 2 uses all the same parts as Stage 1 but adds the following:Plazmaman upgraded intercooler kitStage 3 – 480kW at flywheel (approx $16,000NZ incs stage 1 and 2)Stage 3 uses all the same parts as Stage 2 but adds the following: Fuel injector upgrade now required for F6-310Fuel pump upgradeFull 4″ exhaust system (Nizpro option preferred but other options available)Full turbocharger upgrade on XR6 & G6E (not required for F6-310)Turbocharger compressor housing upgradeNizpro custom CNC ported turbine housingNizpro custom long throw wastegate actuatorHerrod cold air intake systemStage 4 – 540kW at flywheel (requires E85 fuel rather than pump fuel)Stage 4 uses all the same parts as Stage 3 (except for the Herrod cold air intake) but adds the following: Plazmaman custom intake manifold and plenumBattery relocation kitCustom cold air induction system

To add to this thread... LC6i here http://www.crutchfield.com/mobile/Product/Item/Overview.aspx?I=161LC6IG&tp=2001 I'll be doing an upgrade soon with this unit but keeping an 8" sub in the parcel tray.

ASL Automedia. Awesome site.

Cable jumpers. They are small white fold over splice connectors, no cutting of cables required. Just clamp them on.

Not that I am endorsing APS products but I thought this was a decent write up and has pipe calcs inc'd; http://www.airpowersystems.com/falcon/exhaust/exhaust.htm 3.5" minimum. Or a mix of 3.5" and twin 2.5"

I just used some cheapy stuff my father in law gave me so it wasn't great on the corners but I would imagine the proper 3M is designed to be pushed and pulled with heat. All in all not a bad job. I just wanted to cover up the silver accents in the interior. It already has black leather so didn't need much. First pic is before, the others are the result. I didn't use a heat gun, just a hair dryer with a heat facility.

Struggling to find out exactly how much coolant to put in the 08 FG. Anyone know an exact figure based on dry system fill up?

I see. I might wait and see. When I run it before, when it was warm the coolant level came back up. I noticed as it cooled down again the level dropped. Unsure on these things what normal is but youd think cold max would be the level it would sit at cold if youve filled it up to that point cold.

So...along the same lines as all the above. Coolant level drops over a few days. No over heating, in fact sits slightly under half. Good power and no puddles under the car I can see (even had a drip tray under there for a time) No dodgy smell with the heater and the heater blows well. Does the amount of the use of aircon use the water? Topped it back up with some glycol and water to max cold line. Today checked it when the wife came home. It was normal op temp and the line had dropped slightly. Checked just now, 3 hours after last been run and its back down to cold min line. Bottom hose same temp as line from header tank but hose to thermo is still quite warm. Squeeze the lines and theres water there. Checked for leaks again around hose ends, under tank and nothing. Oil still looks good. No cloudy white, in fact still quite golden.

Had the car back at the dealer today. Replaced the battery then we could hook the phone up. 5 mins later it cut out. Ford got a replacement bluetooth module to try but same issue. Delving into the codes it suggested a mis match of the ACM. Does anyone know if you can re programme the audio control module to match the vehicle?

Ive had mine in for the same thing. Unfortunately it threw an error code that the icc ecu is bung hence no bluetooth or ipod hook up but will still play radio and aux. Getting fixed under mech warranty in a couple weeks.