dare

Yeah normal factory extra! I get it all the time during winter - country roads and water crossings. Apparently got something to do with moisture and the ABS sensors at the wheels - slight short in warning system I guess. Nothing to worry about though ... although brakes don't work efficiently when wet

I second XRBrutes option - I had the same problem about a year ago and switch just needed resetting. Seems that the spring in the switch may bind up inside not allowing it to disengage properly.

No worries mate - glad to help out. Now tell us how much you've prob saved all up (on Frauds original quote and through this site - heads up Mal). Don't shout too loudly, got to get down that way again sometime Is it back on the road yet?

Yeah, I was without it for about a month 'til it went in for service... little bit hard to keep foot restricited on nice straight roads and long trips. The switch looks el cheapo - plasticy (green and about 3/4 size of matchbox, for your reference), ford cost cutting I guess. If it does it again think I'll replace with older type more robust switch. Pretty simple, hope it works for you

Dont know if this will helps but I had prob with cruise control not working and brake lights intermittently not working/staying on. Turned out to be brake light switch (to put simply I guess 'over extended'). No need to replace switch with a new one, just a simple case of resetting. Pull switch out of car (located normal spot behind brake pedal), pull piston of switch out 'til it clicks, then push in to check opertaion and reinstall in car. Ford dealer said this is not an uncommon problem with cars from AU onwards - I guess overextending the little piston of the switch binds up the spring internally??? Anyway, was a simple fix for my problem

Darren, had similar problem late last/early this year. Started playing up, same as yours, at 4000rpm intermittently on medium to heavy throttle, then more regularly ->3500rpm, then 2500rpm. Ended up being corrosion in the connector to the knock sensor, leaning it out and going into limp mode 'til it adjusted itself. All came up as errors (with explanations) when fraud mechanic finally believed me and connected diagnostic to computer - I looked over his shoulder quite interesting. I put up with it for quite a while but problem got to the point of leaning out to the extent of stalling when under load towing boat, so not good - a quick clean of the connector and not a problem since. Hope this help at all. Cheers Simon

Had my car in at Ford last week - having the same problem. Motor randomly cutting out on long trips and hot days (sharp loss of torque, quick drop in rpm and stalling with a shudder). The temp gauge wasn't moving off normal operating but when it stalled the light and chime for 'engine oil overheating' would come on. Thought it would have something to do with the warning, but was told this is just a linked warning. After much head scratching, the problem turned out to be corrosion in the connection for the knock sensor (came up as an erorr on the diagnostic). It was giving false readings and leaning it out too much (also came up as errors). Now is all good - heaps more power, smooth acceleration, which I haven't had for some time. Pity they didn't fix the sh#t second diff, the horn, the cruise control and the annoying drumming in the back end ???(that I've had for 50,000km and they can't find why). Can't have everything I guess!