Stockies

Power comes on strong until the little turbo runs out of wastegate cycle. Currently at 100% duty cycle at 13.5 PSI of boost. Looking at fitting the turbosmart actuator but not sure if my injectors/fuel will be up to the task. Can definitely feel when its at its limit at full send, Ran a 11.5 at Heathcote on a full tank, 19's, spare in boot etc and after 3rd gear was wishing for more boost as it just wouldn't pull any harder. Really affected my MPH as I couldn't do any better than 122.6 Still an absolute handful to get off the line on the street, plenty of torque and I've managed to bend my rear CV's and destroy a tailshaft by having semi slicks on the back. I have had the PCMTEC launch control set at 10 PSI though.

I've got the baby turbo high flowed and made 716.9 NM of torque with 412 RWKW (on e85) Might not be the lowest number, but its somewhere for you to start your comparisions

Vaulted ceilings look great, but are a pain for adding stuff down the track. I pulled the skirting boards off and ran the cables between the floor and the plaster at my sisters house that had vaulted ceilings. Pro tip is it not stuff a 6RU rack in the linen closet without a rack fan and temprature sensor though.

Honestly for a ute I'd upgrade the front and rear speakers, sound deaden the doors and rear wall of the ute (this is a must in my view). Then install a slimline sub under the passenger seat. Speakers are 6" in the doors and rear panel behind seats. You'll have to cut the factory speaker pods to pieces to remove the factory rubbish cones. The slimline subs have a speaker input that you can just connect without a line convertor - just tap into the rear speakers while you have it all apart and run the cables under the carpet to under the passenger seat. Ground can be used from the bolt at the back of the console - near the seatbelt stalk. Power can be run from under the bonnet (6mm or 8 gauge - depending on what you have on hand). I normally use the ciggy lighter for remote turn on, unless the slimline sub has "remote audio turn on" from the speaker inputs. I'd put splits in the front and just coaxials in the rear. If you don't already have tweeters from factory, the a pillar covers can be purchased at Ford dealers or eBay/Fackbook etc. Done this a few times now (utes and sedans), and if I had my time again, I'd have never stuck a line out convertor in my G6ET and just left it with upgraded speakers and woofers. That "white noise" from the factory ICC is so annoying - even when most of it is tuned out. Tuning a FG with line out convertors and installing it all correctly is a big job - almost workshop level for most people. If you have to use a line out convertor - make sure is one with lots of tuning options with dials, not software - so you don't lose all your settings if the damn battery goes flat.

Stupid question, but if those drinks fridges are outside, how do you stop people from entering your backyard and taking them? or am I just being to "security paranoid" about fence jumpers and stuff?

I'm liking "Riversand" for the fence panels and "Hegde" for the posts and tops.... Other than that, the dark grey "monument" for a single colour

Is the speed sense wire run to the kickpanel?

When I bought the bedding for my master suite, I went to the local Sheridan oulet at DFO. Bought a "Summer" and "winter" doona along with a whole bunch of fitted sheets and covers. Was still pricey at the outlet store being a king sized bed, but nothing beats those 1000 count threads, when you junp into it at night. Being from a reputable company too, they always look the goods and a well presented bed always looks good when you are rocking the single life.

I've had heaps of issues with mine since upgrading the stereo. I'm still using the ICC and a AudioControl LCQ -1 Line out convertor though. I tried everything, Big 3 upgrade, filter on the factory ICC power wire, best RCA cables I could find, Move wiring away from everything (RCA's are on the passenger side, power is on the drivers). I pulled the whole car apart and added an extra earth wire to every earth I could find in the vehicle with 6mm cable, then joined them all together to make one new earth loom and finished by adding an external earth to the line out unit. I even found a earth really high up on the drivers side that the ICC uses for its earthing (was a pain to get to - buy a 7mm ratchet spanner to undo it) This dropped the whine noise to nearly nothing, and was the best thing I did to solve it. It seems the FG's are really lacking in earthing from the factory to save some bucks on cable per vehicle, this part of the reason for the whine. Because I'm unwilling to install an aftermarket headunit (I want to retain reverse sensor beeps and factory look) this is the best I'm going to get I think. Also, my speaker wires are tapped into the main ICC loom and then covered in tape/conduit to keep "noise" out. I used quaility cable as well, as originally I didn't - and replacing it with better stuff also helped. I'm saying this as I have heard vehicles that have their speakers tapped into in the kickpanels, and all of them have heaps more noise than mine ever did. Mine also has new speaker cable runs from the amp into the doors, as I didn't want to use the factory stuff. So, in short - run new speaker cables from your headunit direct to your speakers, don't use the factory stuff if you have an aftermarket unit. You will lose the reverse beeps and factory bluetooth however.

Thanks for all the reply's and guidance everyone. There certainly is a few members here raising the bar extremely high! I'll be sure to show off any improvements as go.

Mine are connected to the auto meter LED dimmer module, allows them to be dimmed independent of the factory gauges - its still wired into the same dimmer wire that everyone else uses, so they can dim with the factory settings. Highly recommend it for aftermarket gauges

Have to also confirm the T3 upgrade with goodridge stainless lines, works a treat. Can't remember what pads are in it, might be QFM HPX or something similar - but no issues with "squealing" at all. Replace the brake fluid (flush and replace - so 2 bottles) while your at it Also, I'm pretty sure I only have the T2's on the rear, and T3's on the front - so that's an option if price is a issue

Thanks for that mate, really do appreciate it. I get what you mean with the "cool" vs "warm" paint colours, that's what what I have struggled a lot with. I'm onto at least round 4 of "settling" on paint colour choice. I really want the modern feel to my house and I keep running into the "it looks too cold" look, as you explained above. Really do like the grey look, but I keep thinking its going to be too dark. Have had the paint experts out last time and she recommended a pure white (Vivid White) ceiling - since there will be roof mounted speakers in most rooms for multiroom audio controled off an iPad with independent volume control in each room. It will also match the bezels on the LED's. I went with cool white LED,s but also have warm white accent LED's in the study (in photo above) and two roof mounted on a gimble pointing at artwork in the hallway, just to "soft light" some paintings I bought - The posters in the hallway are a little too bachelor spec - as much as I like them though (They were the first things I hung on the walls) The carpet I cannot decide on, I'd like a really dark grey for contrast and to look good for longer than a lighter carpet. The other idea is a floating floor in a lighter timber stain to "brighten" up the house. Simply can't decide what I want. The carpet that's there now is great when someone has dirty feet or drunkenly spills a drink, you simply can not tell its dirty. Its also really thick and in good condition - its just ugly. Makes a great conversation starter when people first walk in however. The photo of the "bachelor wall" - the colour I want is the lighter grey on the right - that's "timeless grey" The left hand side is "Teahouse" and was one of my first choices, but I feel its too dark - I did however use it to paint my kitchen (woodgrain panel - but otherwise in good nick) to stop the two different types of woodgrain patterns that where there. I'm about halfway through with that now, thought It would do for a year or two - until I fully replace it with all new appliances - with hopefully a gas cooktop - since everything is currently electric.

Bit of background, since this is the right thread. This is my first house, bought it a year and a half ago, its a small 3 bed, 1 bath completely wog spec joint. Bought it for location more than size/newness. Has never been been modified or painted since built in 1979. No gas - only electric hot water unit in roof and old school wall heater (removed for being a fire hazard) Have done some basic electrical rework on it, new board, Clipsal saturn switches, moved switches from architrave to wall, LED downlights etc. Pictures below, since they speak louder than words: Outside of the house: Living room on move in day - light fitting has been replaced, carpet has not - yes its hideous Lovely pocket door to kitchen, this time the glass is hideous/retro Other side of living room with new furniture and some artwork to liven up the place: Hallway with the lovely 70's spec carpet and standard bachelor artwork, did splash out of the console table so it matches my dining, coffee and lamp tables (Also been colour testing in hallway) Good old Clipsal Saturn, have changed all light switches and power points and added data points Data cables in roof- (blow in stuff is booked to be sucked out and replaced next month): Study with IKEA shelving with glass doors to keep the dust out: Its going to be a big job to paint, and fix up - but its my foot in the door of the real estate market.

Stripes, what colours did you use for painting the interior of your house. They look great. I'm really stuck at the moment for colour scheme in my place, have to completely repaint and re carpet the whole house. It's hideous - but its a big job and I don't wanna have to paint it all again if I hate the colours I've picked. For anyone who may/can help - I'm going/want to do: Dulux "Vivid White" for doors and skirting Standard Ceiling white, for you know - the ceilings Dulux "timeless Grey" for any feature walls, was thinking hallway, living room master bed etc Dulux "Lexicon" or "lexicon half" for walls Only really looked into dulux at the moment, but I have no idea on picking colours