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LazyBrennan

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LazyBrennan last won the day on July 19 2019

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About LazyBrennan

  • Birthday 01/02/1990

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    arelette@hotmail.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Baldivis, Wait Ages.
  • Interests
    Ford.

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  1. hahaha you can tell my wife that then considering she's the one who has been driving it 95% of the time. By any chance can you show me a photo of what you're talking about? I can get parts welded no worries if I can show my mate what needs doing.
  2. Gday guys My 2010 fg xr driver seat is sliding backwards and forwards a little even after being locked into position with the slider bar if that makes sense. Has anyone had this or know of a fix?
  3. Gday guys Trying to help my old man find a new set of axles for his 2011 335 gt. His passenger side is knackered so looking for options. He currently has 480rwkw on 98 and about to go e85. I was hoping to find some 700hp axles like I put in my bf xr6 turbo but can only seem to find the really expensive 1400hp kits for the fg. What have people used or can anyone recommend anything else?
  4. That’s a good point, I’ll check how much is in it before I drain it next time. I put 8.5l back into it and it was over full a little bit lol
  5. G'day guys So recently I did an oil change on my old mans 335 GT. When I was draining the engine oil I only managed to get about 6-7 litters out of it. That includes the oil filter as well. This doesn't seem right to me considering its meant to 8.5 litters. Is there something I may be missing or doing wrong? Or do other people find they get the same thing? Its running with 5w30 Gulf Western oil.
  6. So recently working on the old mans GT I was installing some injectors getting ready to " I <3 Bananas send it" lol. Everything went sweet apart from this bloody vacuum connection that broke behind the intercooler. From research it seems to be quiet common but no detailed fixing instruction so here you go. This fitting is connected to the fuel vapour canister purge outlet. As you can see here this is how mine broke with the thread still stuck. Being in such a *beep* of a spot I decided rather than trying to get hands behind there it was easier to just take the intercooler out. To do this start by disconnecting your oil breather from your air intake piping then take your air intake piping out by loosen the hose clamps each end and wiggling the hose off each end. Next take the 10mm bolt out holding your engine oil dipstick to the throttle body housing as you'll need to shift this a little to get the throttle body out. Next disconnect both connection to the throttle body then take out the 4 bolts holding the throttle body and remember to grab the gasket and not let it fall down into the engine bay and look after it!! Might even be worth inspecting and replacing. If you're experiencing the main issue here you know how temperamental these cars get with a simple air leak lol. Shimmy the dip stick out of the way to slide the throttle body out. Next you need to disconnect this "hat" or bracket. They are a 5mm hex bolts so be careful not to round them like I did πŸ€¦β€β™‚οΈ Next start taking out the torx screws holding the 335 plate down. From memory I think they are a T20 bit. Once that's off disconnect the T-map sensor plug and move the wiring out of the way, The sensor can stay in. The rubber under the 335 plate is a charger "silencer" from what I was told... Ours looked good in the bin πŸ€·β€β™‚οΈ Next start taking out the 8mm bolts holding the intercooler housing down. You will need a 1/4" uni joint socket and a small extension to get the back 4 bolts out, Handy to keep a magnet on hand as well so you don't drop any bolts down into the bay. Now the housing should just lift straight out. Next take the 6 bolts out holding the intercooler down then just lift the cooler out. Now there's plenty of room to get the thread out, I just used a thread extractor tool. With the tube still connected to the fitting you just push in and hold down the fitting end then pull the tube out. Now I went to Enzed to get some metal fittings because F*#! ever having to do this again because of cheap plastic. The parts I got (on my Enzed receipt) Product code - A72-0604 72 3/8X1/4 M&F Adaptor Product code - 20003-M0806 M STR 8mm Tube X 3/8 BSPT You will also need to disconnect the oil breather line just to screw this fitting in. Now just push the hose back into the fitting and reverse all the steps to put it all back together Hope this helps anyone who has this happen to them and hey.. Least you know how to do half of the job installing a after market intercooler 😈
  7. Cheers mate! Trust it to be blocked at work haha πŸ€¦β€β™‚οΈ
  8. Hey guys Does anyone have a digital copy of the 335 workshop service manual or know anywhere I can get it? Happy to pay for it but I can only find workshop manuals for the 6's
  9. What a F%^%ing day its been... Can anyone tell me what this connection is called and whats the best way to get to it so I can pull the broken bit of plastic out?
  10. haha I meant looking at the engine bay what cylinder is what number. I was under the assumption drivers side was 1 to 4 starting from the front of the car but im hearing different things.
  11. Legend mate cheers! Dont know what number order the cylinders go in by any chance?
  12. Hey guys Been trying to find the answer and can’t find it. How much engine oil do these 335’s take for a service? Cheers
  13. Well Racewars was a world of fun!!! I had 2 400m passes making 215 and 216 kmh then I had 3 800m rolling passes. First was 260, 261 then 265. Unfortunately I only got 1 run on the 1000m due to the incident but I managed a 270. Horrible launch and bad gear changes so hopefully next year I can crack at least 275. But all in all I am stoked!!! Was an awesome weekend and can't wait for next year! Massive thanks to @IH8TOADS Unreal tuning and help! Missus got some awesome photos and a video of toads and my self racing on the 800m roll on.
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