Spoony

Got them on using a 36mm socket (one I use for hub nuts) reversed into the stop. Then after many sketch random slips managed to lever them on with a long tyre lever bar.

Hmmm the hot/boiling water idea seems to have zero effect on the Poly. :(

While the rest of the car has Superpro bushes and joints these ones are just PolyPro, same design/item as Nolathane/Whiteline etc. One end is quite open so it can only go one one way. http://www.nolathane.com.au/product_detail.php?part_number=47344&sq=2056

Good idea, I actually had a light bulb moment of doing this laying in bed last night haha. Will give it a shot, cheers. Yeah pretty sure, was yours poly or rubber though? I'd imagine rubber would pop over easy.

I picked up some ebay poly rear bump stops. I've had no luck getting them to pop over the mounting lug/knob. So far I've tried greasing them up, trying to use a scissor jack between suspension arm and stop, no luck. I also tried putting using a large socket that locates in the stop but wide enough to no fall not the stop then jacking up that section of suspension. I got to a point where it looked scary/risky and stopped. Any other tips for young players? Cheers

Really lots of those things you listed earlier are general wear an tear on any vehicle. As for the above, 100% agree. The turbo oil feed is after the standard filter. There a plenty of turbo setups that don't have a special inline filter for the turbo. I remember reading somewhere, possibly hear-say though, that the small mesh filter was only a run in precaution that Garrett recommended, and that it could (should?) be removed later. I've run 170,000km (at 270,000km) without any inline filtered, still on original turbo, still same amount of play as at 100,000km and still spins down for just as long when turning it off. Interesting you needed a turbo at 250,000km. As they are generally very under stressed on this engines I would have expected the original still to be going now on yours. It makes one ponder if leaving that screen filter in caused premature failure?

I feel the driveline in them is genuinely impressive. 'touch wood' but despite the km's, respectful but spirited fun use at times, and the substantial increased power output for much of it's life, I haven't touch a single thing with the exception of finally needing to do the water pump at 260,000km. That's from crankshaft pulley to rear wheels.

Is this maybe the highest XR6T that gets a mention? I noticed Philtaxi commented with more but not sure if that's his taxi or an XR6T? Mines now on 260,000 odd kms, late 07 BFii. 320rwkw (DynoDynamics) on LPG and largely due to doing the suspension sometime ago (Bilstiens, all superpro bushes, 2 rate up king springs etc) it still drives better than it did when got it at 100,000kms, and a I feel better than newer FG XR6T's or G6ET's. Bar the brakes and engine response it's drive/ride/feel is more like the bosses new FGX XR8. Finally Ford got some reasonable suspension in these things stock. What caused your turbo to go at 250k? Mine still seems to feel the same as at 100,000km as far as noise, free spin and play goes. I did remove the turbo oil filter/clogger thingy at 100,000km so not sure if that's helped? It does seem that these things will steam on for many km's if serviced well. I change 10-40 nulon synth every 10,000km, I'd do it sooner if it was on Petrol, but LPG is better for oil and engine life. Part of me wants to sell it to move onto other things, another part wants to see just how many kms an Aussie built car that can run a low 12 at 116mph with probably about 500 engine hp can do.

http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Cooling_Systems/Radiator_Stop_Leak/#.U7DmY_mSx8E I'm trying to find the thread/discussion on another forum with the Nulon rep who basically explained it a being good for weeps and assured it wouldn't cause blockages in a system that's already clean. I'd also consider using this stuff. Flush/change it out after so can't really get caught in the system. http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/DynaGrip-Metallic-Seal-Tite-Radiator-Stop-Leak-250mL.aspx?pid=0468#Cross

Still hasn't moved a mm since then Nulon stuff, $12 or whatever it was a bottle. Coolant still looks green/same colour and clean.

It's a 230,000 km taxi motor though, bar the head they aren't exactly the latest design, not that much in any engine regarding head gaskets etc has changed though?

I'd tend to agree, if replacing the head studs to retention in the 'hope' that it works (chances??) might as well go the whole hog. After a bit of searching & reading I found a Nulon rep posting on a few forums about their seal-up product. Comments included assurances that it will not block or gunk up the cooling system if it's in a clean state already etc, and works for weeping head gaskets. It's been in there not long after the early posts now and haven't seen the level drop even after some spirited driving and a hard skid pan day. As gaz097 said, it's a fair bit of work, for what's almost just an annoyance. It seems for me it took many many months for the level to drop just millimeters . Hopefully the fix in a bottle does the trick for a while.

Cheers, not cheap but I guess includes all gaskets, head bolts etc. Seems it's a 'fault' with design though when happens across multiple cars? Is it turbo only in this spot or both? I do wonder when doing it what else would be good to do at the same time. The car is fairly mild, 10psi LPG tune with about 288-307rwkw (pick a dyno haha) . Has 226,000km on it. The front timing cover I think has a weep so figure one would do that at the same time, and maybe a crank seal? Anything else, water pump perhaps? Oil pump or non issue (I never limiter bounce it as peak power is like 4950 with the above tune). I was just considering using some of that CarGo Seal up, it's worked well I other cars through the years and doesn't seem to clog anything (as you don't leave it in) . After all it is just an external weep.

Aren't the headbolts Torque to Yield though? Ie shouldn't be reused/tensioned?

So seems my BFii T has an external weeping headgasket rear on exhaust side. A quick search and it appears this has happened to others. (Design fail?) It's not yet pouring or dripping but tensioning the exhaust manifold and turbo bolts I can see where it's weeping and wetness down the block. Have noticed coolent res dropping slowly too over time. Does this seemingly 'semi common' issue all of a sudden get worse? Ie don't drive it at all etc or more an annoyance? (Guessing the latter as I think its been like this for maybe a year haha) What's usual cost to do a Headgasket? Any tricks for young players to watch out for if doing it at home? I think the timing cover is also weeping oil so would be the time to do that also. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk