Lunchietey

Update for anyone reading this. Car is running well on same tune. Barely stalls anymore unless I do specific things on start up. Can drive it so it doesn't do the stalling in other words(if it doesn't try and stall in the first 60 seconds it wont do it later and it only does it if I reverse and take more than a few seconds to go into D. If I do it quickly there's no issue) Cold mornings mean flooring in first means wheelspin on 245s(stock diff) and still thoroughly enjoying the power. Average fuel consumption (mostly urban and shorter trips) is 15.5l/100 according to the dash. Will have a fuel card shortly that will show more accurate numbers but it's not THAT bad now. Blows a cloud when I give it some though but that's only really noticable at night with headlight beams of the cars behind lol. Once life stops throwing me curve balls, I'll be getting the bigger pump in(just as insurance) eventually fitting the LSD and then get the injectors cleaned and get a proper tune on a dyno by @Ralph Wiggum. Was going to do it sooner but his guess at an initial tune was pretty good hahaha. Still does a wierd surging at very light throttle but cannot figure that one out. Also need the exhaust sorted out as the stock center muffler sits a bit low. I think its because it's a sedan centre pipe but a ute may fit better? Dunno if they are different but this one can't get any higher and it sits low. Probably just get a 3" straight through muffler and replace the cat with a 200cpi before the final tune.

Well, swapped TBs over, no difference even using the other tps too. Was a little better maybe, but stupid stalling second time I drove it. Seems to start fine, idles up a bit then almost dies, shakes like sh*t with the cel lit, and wont rev at all. Stop and restart and all good...

I'm worried about the higher rotation of the driveshaft (which is the point of the limiter). The wagon will still do 180 as diff ratio doesn't determine the speed the ecu sees but the driveshaft will need to spin 14% faster to do it. Will vibration/failure be an issue? Did ford leave a good safety margin? I can't see myself doing 180 but 160 is very easy to do on a strip or overtaking in a 110 zone which will exceed the driveshaft rpm that ford had limited. 180 will be more like 205 on the old diff

Ok so common knowledge is the ba/bf wagon is speed limited to 180 due to the long single piece tailshaft. They have a factory 3.23 diff. Now I have been considering an upgrade since the turbo went on to a 3.7 LSD to help with the looong first gear in the BTR. This means faster tailshaft RPM at the same speed(14% give or take) meaning max speed (based on tailshaft RPM) is now 157... That speed might be hit on a 1/4 mile with that diff after all of my mods are done, and probably easy to hit overtaking a long truck in a 110 zone. Is it a concern?

So the turbo leak(if you hadn't seen my other thread) was from a lost exhaust housing bolt likely caused by a cracked rear housing. Put a new bolt in and it so far has been fine. Will check the bolt in a few days on my break. Get an odd fuel smell which I have looked at under the bonnet but can't see anything. Im assuming for now this tune may be rich(was a preliminary flash anyway and will be redone soon) or potentially an injector is leaking etc. Im seriously considering getting a decent injector clean and new orings. Unsure of the cars history so won't hurt! I have also had a few codes relating to rpm limit(guessing its simply that its hit limiter in first a few times) and also a couple relating to TPS(tps is a new and genuine part fitted before the conversion) Ive always had a jerky cruise control and what feels like odd but gentle surging at very light throttle. TB is very clean so maybe the TB stepper motor isn't the best?

Could potentially be a few things, might be worth checking the inlet manifold gasket also. Causes horrible idle, but fine at other revs.

Went and bought some and also some lock tabs if it comes loose again. Fitted a bolt and it all sounds great now. Goes very nicely! Will be doing a 200km service and will recheck all my bolts etc and flush the oil again just to be sure(and fix the earth issue on the gauges). Hopefully all good for now!

Local turbo specialist says probably a cracked housing. So he has said a new bolt with lock tabs may last a while so going up to see them. Hopefully it lasts a while at least...

Hi. So after bolting a stock XR6T setup to my BA wagon, I had a huge exhaust leak appear under the heat shield. Pulled it off to find on of the bolts on the exhaust housing missing. NOT the bolts to the exhaust, the small bolts holding the housing to the cartridge. Anyone know the spec so I can go find one asap?

My wife was in hospital last night(she's ok at the moment) and once she's up and about I'll see if I can fix that leak! Hopefully it's just something small! Pic of 3" over diff from XR6T centre muffler. Custom fabbed by Carline in Rockingham. Nice work!

Haha, did a couple of full throttle runs, while obviously not a 700hp weapon or anything, the Torque Pro measured 5.9 0-100 with a light stall sure made me giggle even on this base tune at 5.5psi(that's what it seems to peak at) on 3.23 ratio is pretty fun. Still have a monster exhaust leak near/on the turbo too which I hopefully can do something about.

Exhaust done! Downside is now that the noise had dropped to a nice burble, I can clearly hear an exhaust leak on the turbo. Seems to be(from what I and the exhaust shop guy with his stethoscope type tool can tell) on the top, near the join between the exhaust housing and the oil port. Ugh now wtf does that mean

Ok for some reason the centre section of the exhaust won't fit(hanger in wrong spot) so going to have to take it to the exhaust shop and get it all done at once. So after confirmation that the gauges were not wired correctly (have to create a better earth when I do an oil change in a couple of hundred kms) I have gone for a quick drive! Woohoo, positive pressure! (Boost gauge works fine :D ) no full throttle runs or anything but probably a couple of second gear half throttle squeezes to ensure it would boost, and that the gate was doing its job properly. Seems to make approximately the right 5psi boost and sounds great doing it with some nice over run crackles and plenty of audible whistle thanks to the very short exhaust. My turbo gear had a BOV delete so I even heard a tiny amount of flutter haha The burning did seem to die down pretty fast too and I'll have a very thorough check of the engine tomorrow in daylight with no bloody rain! Happy camper so far! And yeah makes boost extremely easily thanks to the higher comp!

Well I guess that's good to know! Gauges are definitely a wiring issue, no conductivity to Earth through the sandwich plate. Thought I checked it but apparently now they don't earth hence no signal. Also good to know. Just fighting the exhaust now...

Hmm. Ok well initial fire up is fine, after about 20 seconds the idle seems to come down a touch but becomes quite rough. It is also at this time you can see the smoke I mentioned. It is at this point I switch it off. Also the oil pressure light goes out after starting (2 seconds) but oil pressure gauge(new Autometer) shows nothing. Will have to double check that but at least the OEM light is off so that should just be a gauge issue.

So I fired it up(still on stands etc and only the cat pipe on) and seems to run happily with the new tune. Worryingly after about 60seconds there was some Blue smoke wafting up from under the heatshield near the turbo.... Can't see any leaks but definitely used a fair amount of inox etc in the process. Hopefully it's just all that as the manifold warmed up... *Fingers crossed* Will do a couple of small jobs now, fit some more exhaust and get it off stands and try again!

Test filled the cooling system, no leaks I can see. Hopefully stays that way under pressure. Drilled the sump and fitted that after collecting the ECU from Ralph. It will have to wait now until I'm over my hangover haha but yeah would be REALLY surprised if it wasn't running by Monday afternoon.

I tried all that (well I didn't lick it haha) The old one was pretty good so that's back in with bulk sealant. Will fill it again after its had a while to dry

Ok so new genuine ford oring. Will NOT go in without trying to roll back over the pipe. I am a plumber by trade and have fairly solid hand skills but this is pissing me off now.

Found that thread, thank you! Now just to get an oring that size locally lol

My fault, oring had bound on pushing the pipe in and rolled over part of the lip. Now gotta go order another one. @JETURBO which black oring did you have success with? Do you remember where you bought it?

Definitely the right line, came off a BA. I'll just have to try again but this time fill the f**king thing with RTV! ?

Where it goes into the back of the pump. Steel line with the green oring. Was coated in RTV too and I actually thought it looked really good. I don't think there's really a way to fix it without removing the exhaust manifold... The one I was iffy about is perfectly fine of course although I wouldn't have cared as much if that had leaked because it would be an easy fix.