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Mazza

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  1. I had to remove my turbo this weekend to get at the engine mount top nut. When I got the turbo out I noticed that the waste gate was jammed open. The waste gate sleeve that seems to be a pressure fit into the turbo housing had worked its way partially out of the housing. Seems that as the waste gate opened it got progressively jammed open as the sleeve and the waste gate worked its way out of the housing. I simply firmly tapped it back into position. I'm sure it's not a long term fix but I need wheels. I'm hunting around here now for a solution. Perhaps this might be a possible source of that waste gate open error.
  2. I just replaced engine mounts and had to remove the turbo to get at the driver's side top nut on the mount. All my manifold to head bolts were loose and the turbo to manifold bolts that were still there were finger tight! The two bottom bolts were missing altogether. Once I had the turbo out I found one turbo bolt and it's nut nestled in a recess in the cross member. I didn't bother getting a new bolt to replace the missing forth one. Three tight bolts has to be better than two finger tight!
  3. Very old thread revival here but I replaced both engine mounts this time and wanted to report back. I read widely on how I might do the turbo side mount without taking the car apart and found a few people saying it was possible to remove this mount by first removing the heat shield that sits over this mount to protect it from the turbo. The heat shield is held in place by a clip on the engine mount top bolt. Well, I'm unsure how you would even get your hands in there to get at the clip. There is zero room, even after I removed the big bottom pipe connecting the turbo to the intercooler. I tried and tried to remove as little as possible but my man sized hands just could not manage it. So I removed the turbo. Big job first time round - next time I'll be quicker. Here is a view of that clip with the turbo out of the way.... As can be seen its well rusted on and even with the turbo out of the way I had to use a chisel to cut it to get it off..... I needed a breaker bar to get the top nut off this mount too so really not sure how you would do this job without taking out the turbo. BUT - I'm happy I did take the turbo out! Seriously! Once I did finally get it out I noticed that the waste gate was jammed open. The sleeve, that the waste gate assembly is held in place by, had worked its way out of the housing so that the round part that covers the waste gate port was sitting jammed open against the housing. I simply firmly tapped the waste gate shaft and the sleeve and the waste gate assembly shifted back into place allowing the waste gate cover to align with the port and the round waste gate cover to fully close up. Looking at the following image you can see it's now in the right position and closed. When I noticed it was jammed open, the waste gate was protruding from the turbo housing (a lot more than in this pic obviously). It's funny because I had noticed quite some time back the power wasn't as strong as I had remembered it. Perhaps this was the cause? Engine mounts for comparison... Turbo side quite squashed but still had oil in it 15 years and 140,000 kms old.... Here is the passenger side that I replaced back in 2011 that I wrote about previously in this thread. Its still looking pretty good. The new one is better looking, quality wise. Straps integrated and held in place with clips which is a much improved design .... Close up of new one sourced from eBay at $40 delivered... Hope this is helpful.
  4. I have the N5000 in the 245/40 and they are great. Quiet and long lasting tyre rather than a super sticky tyre though. I believe the N6000 are softer and grippier but don't last so long. The N5000 are on ebay for $150 in this size. Here is some info... http://www.thewheeldeal.com.au/index.php?cPath=279_74
  5. The pics in my post above are of the broken genuine "Turbo" mount and a new non genuine NA (naturally aspirated, ie non turbo) mount. It is my understanding from several sources they are the same, just that a turbo mount comes with a strap, the NA does not. Therefore I ordered an NA mount as I already had the strap from my existing Turbo mount.
  6. I just did my passenger side engine mount and it was a bitch of a job mainly because the top mount nut was done up extremely tight. I managed to get the top nut loosened by using every socket extension bar I own to allow me to use my breaker bar from above the intake manifold. Even then I thought I was going to break the socket. After that it was easy. Undo both engine mount bottom bracket bolts where they mount to the alloy cross member, jack the motor up as high as it will go by jacking under the sump with a block of wood to spread the load. The mount will drop out of the top bracket and will slide out easy. The turbo side one looks scary though... Some pics of my old mount and new side by side... The new one cost 30 bucks from riverside spares. Not too worried about the quality because the ford genuine is clearly crap! You will notice that the mount is nicely rounded out when the broken end of the bolt was rubbing around in its spot. I have been having all kinds of horrible noises from my front end over the last 6 months. When starting the engine I often got a loud "clunk". Going round corners I got a slightly different and softer clunk. Breaking and accelerating I got a "graunch" to quote my friendly local Ford service rep who wanted to charge me $200 to take out the left front strut to diagnose theses noises because after a day in their work shop that were baffled. So I went and ripped out the whole front end and put Superpro from Fulcrum through the front end. This I can recommend. Best money spent so far on my lady, but I digress. When it all went back in that damn graunch was still there! Ahhh. It was somewhere here in this great forum where I read of a guy who had dented his hood when his tuned T broke free of its mounts. So I tried the broken mount tests, foot hard on the brake, rev the motor in Drive, same in reverse. This showed that in Drive the motor would stand up in the engine bay. Bit strange to watch and really freaked out my bro when I showed him (he's an STI man, he doesn't know what its like to have anything break in a car, owning a Ford teaches you about these things....) Anyway the broken mount syndrome can manifest itself in so many strange ways. If you have any strange noises give your motor the "Mount Test" too. A couple of tips. I got the NA (naturally aspirated) mount, it sure does look like the the Turbo one without a strap. Any way I could not get the straps to go on so I had to first trim some excess rubber from around the corners of the alloy channels and then gently file away the hard edge at the bottom of the channel so the strap would sit down a little lower and catch the now deeper sides of the channels. I also had to use my vice to squash the mount a bit to physically fit the strap up as the new mount was a little taller than the old one. Have a close look at the pics and you can see the bright alloy corners where I have filed it back. Oh and for the record my car had done about 65,000 kms when it started making these noises, is not tuned and is an auto...
  7. I have fitted BF 328mm ventilated rotors and the matching (and much larger) calipers to my BA as it too had 303 solids on the rear. They bolted straight up, I just had to use the tin snips to remove a little of the steel shroud that sits behind the rotors. I'm assuming they are the same as the FG as the pad part numbers are the same meaning the same calipers and therefore same mounting points? I also did the fronts, going up from the standard BA 298mm rotors to the BF 322mm that have the pillar cooling rather than the tubes, if that makes sense. The fronts use exactly the same caliper and pad, except the caliper is extended where it mounts up. The rears are a big change over standard though with much larger pads, caliper and of course rotors, again with the pillar venting. I got all the hardware from FTG Salvage. Their advice was don't bother with the rear upgrade. They recommended to keep the 303 rotors and instead fit the Lucas/TRW pads. The gent at FTG uses these pads in his Nissan Patrol race truck (oxymoron? ;-) ). I ended up doing the front and rear rotor/caliper upgrade and the TRW/Lucas pads but in retrospect I probably should have saved my money and just done the pads (possibly with slotted rotors) as these pads have great bite and are cheap (try ATAP). I found a write up on these by a fella that races Toyota Supra's and he endorsed them for serious track work too. This pad is a bit of a "sounds too good to be true" but ends up delivering. It's quiet, can handle high temps without fade and has great pedal feel and is cheap. The down side is plenty of dust but it makes my rims look like 17" Dark Agents so I'm happy! Also I did a very thourough fluid flush with Penrite dot 4. Race Breaks have a rather long write up on this forum that basically says don't bother with hardware upgrades, instead they guarantee any car will be track ready with their pad and fluid upgrade, naturally I did not find this until I had done my hardware! Notwithstanding I still want 6/4 pot Brembos front and rear! Next up is the re-bushing of the entire front end with Superpro. Now that the brakes are good I'm hanging out for a tight, pointy and feelsome front end. Next weekends' job.
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