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Jizza

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  1. Yeah can expect some variance, though cant accept a brand new $38000 car to handle like a VS commodore (in terms of comfort not sportiness)
  2. Thanx Bunna, very informative: Have just swapped the G6 Limited's springs and shocks front and rear for XR6 units, difference as follows. Front was 385mm - now 373mm Rear was 390mm - now 375mm Will be interesting to see how / if it settles further.......handling is obviously much improved. Since new (now 15,000km) The G6 stock was crap as expected in corners but over bumps and surface changes it was horendous, worse than the old BF XR6 with 80,000km on it. Surprisingly that is now fixed also..... Wonder if Pedders can examine the stock units I took out and tell me if they were stuffed so I can take them to the dealer with some lube........ 5 times back there in 6 months and they couldnt find an issue, till the front sway bar had rattled its way loose. Interesting they were also the last to have the wheels off, front right wheel nuts today were little more than hand tight
  3. Well made the swap today with the neighbour who is a former brake technician, the difference is astounding. None of the sloppy corner roll (in comparison anyway) and handles bumps heaps better. Dropped the car 15mm give or take all round, will see how it settles. Off to Pedders this week for an alignment and a safety check just in case, perhaps an upgrade to the swaybars or bushes if needed, and if it still needs to go down a little perhaps some lowered springs.
  4. Anyone know the standard hub to guard measurement for FG XR6 out of interest?
  5. I should also add, its a my car but under a private lease and will be updated after 3 years (75000km or so), hence no desire to go too wild with it. Just want to improve the drivability of the thing while I have it as the stock suspension is crap. It has been back to Ford 5 times, they cant replicate the issues I am having in road tests (of course). Actually had them suggest the tyre pressure was too high and that was the reason........ Had the front sway bar work its way loose and rattle like the front end was collapsing, they sure found that. Inherent issues with Independent rear perhaps......I dunno, the BF XR with 80000km handled bumps better than this from new, as does the wifes 60000km old Mazda SP23
  6. Simple economics there......aftermarket shocks and springs $700 - $1000 plus, standard XR6 with 14,000 km from someone who has already updated their shocks and springs = $180 Car already has a ridiculously firm ride over bumps, I expected the move from a BF XR to a G6 would mean a bit more slop around corners but a much softer ride over bumps etc, turns out I got the worst of both worlds, all of the corner slop and a thump in the rear and front over every bump or surface transition, it really is a crap ride, and when you give it a bit around corners and the surface changes the thing is all over the place......just crap Mr Ford.
  7. Hi gents, have recently purchased some near new XR6 springs and shocks for the G6 Limited. Query - safe to assume that swapping these into a G6 will result in same hub to guard measurement which can be found on FG XR6??? This will result in a 10-15mm reduction in stance height by my estimate which is better than nothing, and obviously improved cornering compared with the G6 standard issue which corners like a toyota hi-ace van. Has anyone performed this kind of surgery replacement with "factory" gear from a transplant vehicle? I dont have the time to do it myself so will likely have Pedders do it. Interesting point to note, asked the Ford dealer for a price to do the same job while they will already have the wheels off for the 15k service......they want $650, Pedders will do the job from scratch for $370
  8. Yeah careful with the plastic clips......I had my trims off the first few times with no issues at all, then the last time while being "less careful", snapped one of the little buggers in half. They do hold properly when put back on, unless they get damaged.
  9. Good to hear, how have you found the sound quality?
  10. Check out the following post, plenty of info on the tweeters including pictures and replacement information: http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=55569 Tweets will likely run of the same line as the mid and there should be a cross over somewhere to split the signal but it may be easier to just swap them out, however you will of course need to ensure you get the wiring to them from the cross overs in your new splits........
  11. Yeah the one I used was a cheaper one, not a dremel and worked just fine, easy to use. Have a crack at the speakers yourself. As a guide the fronts were the trial and error for me, passenger side was first which took a few hours, driver side an hour and a half, rears took less than 2 hours (till I found the speakers were too big and needed some mods to the mounts and door trims). If I had a guide to go by probably would have cut the time in half. I did see a few guides around which helped a little knowing what too expect, the whole reason I did this one was for that little extra information I didnt have.
  12. Well completed the install on the weekend, 6inch VDO Dayton splits in the front and 6inch Kicker 2 ways in the rear, no amp, no sub, just upgraded the standard speakers and the difference is well worth the effort......however. I recommend anyone thinking of undertaking this change do some research BEFORE you buy your speakers. I got lucky with the fronts as they went on (rather than in) the factory speaker mounts without any trouble, however the kickers in the rear went on fine until I tried to put the door trims back on and they wouldnt fit. Ended up having to modify the speaker mounts twice to get them to fit. Note that the inside of the door trim is also moulded to fit around the speaker so if your speaker is too wide sitting on top then the trim will not sit flat (the issue I had with the Kicker's) As a guide 5 1/4 speakers will go in the mounts, 6inch will sit on the mounts and 6 1/2 will not work unless you are prepared to modify the mounts completely or make your own. If you use 6inch speakers make sure they are low in profile at the rim (the VDO's were aprox 2mm thick, the kickers were about 9mm) as the surround on the inside of the door trim meets up with the foam on the outer surround of the speaker mount. A modification of the mounts to remove the outer ring and have the speakers sit on the inner ring (angled towards the passenger) is pretty simple if you have a dremell or similar and will allow for 6inch or 6 1/2 inch to be mounted provided the holes lineup with the rim: Standard speakers in their mounts: Be prepared to hack apart your new car as the speakers and mounts are a one-piece product and the guts of the speaker will need to be removed. I used an angle grinder, a 4inch just fits for the finishing: Identifying speaker wires etc is tricky unless you know what your doing, however take note that the speaker mounts have clip in terminals and one of these on the outer side of the casing shows a + sign for positive (something I noticed after I had done a stack of trial and error :( ) For the rears what I did was locate the side marked + and used the wires and connectors supplied with the speakers to solder on to the inside of the terminal lugs so that the factory plug in loom could be used. VDo's installed in mounts, I also mounted the crossover to the same mount, just fit inside a cavity, did some measuring to check, your may or may not: Cant imagine why the new speaker sound better than the old ones, perhaps size does matter: I have the tweeters in the front mounted inside the rearview demister vents on the dash so it all looks stock and they cant be seen, but can be heard. Sound is great and really punchy mid bass with enough low bass. I didnt want a doof doof boot rattler just a nice pronounced sound with good imaging. I ran the wiring for the tweeters down through the shround on the side of the dashboard under the side area of the footwell and through the rubber sealed tube into the door skin where the factory wires go. This takes time to access and patience to get the wires through. I removed each end gently but firmly and used a reasonably firm tube of plastic 4mm sprinkler hose to get through the rubber tube and when both ends were exposed I taped the wires to the tube and pulled them through, doing each section at a time. There is also a recessed white plastic box on each side of the car containing an assortment of wiring loms etc, these pop out pretty easily for running the wire through. Be patient as it can take some effort to find the holes to get it through but persist, only took me a few goes blind. Also, be prepared to remove the glove box and the shroud it sits in (with its 13 screws holding the damn thing on). The glove box has a clip in the middle at the top which stops it pulling forward, you can maneuvre this clip to get it further forward where it will lift out, again be careful not to snap anything. Glove box shroud: After glove box and shroud removed: Tweeters hidden in vent: Tweeter cables down side of dashboard behind shroud piece (easy to remove, dont set off airbags!) Made sure any holes I drilled were as small as possible, and I mean small enough that the terminals would not fit through with the rubbers on them! Finished interior looks like I never touched it which is what I was going for. All in all a great sound and worth the effort. I spent $69 on the splits at JB's at 30% off and the kickers for the rear were $59 at 30% off, pretty cheap spend after all. Very punchy, great mids and highs. Be prepared to spend a little while defining the sound through your new speakers......songs will sound different, you will hear things you may not have noticed before and that includes harsher mids and highs on some music. I listen to rock from old stuff to very new, no dancy stuff....... Enjoy chopping.......as per usual practise I did have the normal one screw left over.....still dont know where that goes (?) Fell free to shoot questions, other than which wires are positive and negative, go with the labelling on the speaker mounts for that one (wish someone told me that before I started)
  13. Well with MUCH thanx to a forum member on another forum who posted and extremely simple and effective way to disable this crappy feature, it is finally disabled. This is 100% tested, working and reversible with no mods needed. I didnt think it would work like that silly "cycling the key" suggestion but to my surprise it does, takes 10 seconds to do Suggest as this comes up HEAPS that it gets a very well deserved sticky and the person responsible for posting it below gets much adoration and praise "Originally Posted by whiteelfalcon" ignition on, wait for airbag lights etc to go out buckle then unbuckle 9 times wait for few seconds for seat belt light to start regular .5 second flash and then go out. All done. To go back to the annoying warnings repeat above proceedure
  14. Yes this issue has been discussed in other posts that carry off on different issues and yes I have read them. What I would like to know is has anyone had theirs successfully disabled, was this done by a dealer and if not what was the method? It is a pesky "feature" (and I use the term feature very loosely) that most would like disabled, and it should have been selectable as it was with the B series. I tried every dealer in South Australia and most said it "cant" be disabled or that "they" cant disable them. IMPORTANT------Yes I wear a seatbelt at all times, except in my LONG driveway. If you share the opinion of some who think its a great feature and anyone who wants it disabled is threatening society (and no doubt the kind of people who think speed and red light cameras make the roads safer by distracting people from the traffic and road obstacles they should be paying attention too rather than a speedometer), please keep your opinions to yourself ........and try providing something helpful or just dont comment.
  15. Yes this issue has been discussed in other posts and on other forums that carry off on different issues and yes I have read them. What I would like to know is has anyone had theirs successfully disabled, was this done by a dealer and if not what was the method? It is a pesky "feature" (and I use the term feature very loosely) that most would like disabled, and it should have been selectable as it was with the B series. I tried every dealer in South Australia and most said it "cant" be disabled or that "they" cant disable them. And yes I wear a seatbelt at all times. Funny this "feature" didnt pickup last week that my 3 year old didnt have her booster seat harness on, she had to tell her idiot forgetful dad when we were 2 minutes down the road.........then it would have been useful but given kids are in those seats until puberty now, the "feature" is of even less use.....
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