jim985

Turned out that a fuse was blown. All good now. Thanks for all the help guys.

I will pull the column back out and carefully check the wires that came with it. I guess I could splice in the original wires, except for the ones connected to the ignition. I will charge the battery and check the fuses also. Hope this works. Thanks for all the help guys.

The wrecker I went to specializes in Falcons and knew that a BA column would not be compatible. He confirmed it was from a BF. Next to each other the two parts seem identical, and all the old wires fit into the same spots on the new column.When I asked him for a steering column he said "ignition playing up is it?" so I am guessing he gave me the correct part. I even took my old one in to make sure they were the same. I also checked the battery charge 12.5V I reckon the the next issue I am going to have is trying to get the car on a tow truck from where it is parked.

The only wiring that is different is the stuff that is connected to the back of the ignition barrel. That harness consists of the wires connected to the black plastic disk on the ignition switch and the green plug for the PATS the small white plug that is pictured above on one end. With a much larger white plug with a spring loaded catch on the opposite end. Everything else was from the original column. I tried plugging my X3 in and it would couldn't load a tune because I could not unlock the ECU.

Here it is

Yeah I am sure it is all plugged in. I have the battery disconnected at the moment. I will try the key thing too. I assume I cycle the key with the battery connected. The only thing that was not connected was one white plug on the passenger side of the column, which I can't see any other plug for. It is part of the ignition switch loom. The repair manual I was using shows pics of it not connected at all, so I assume it is for column gear shifts or something. Thanks for the help.

Ok so I have swapped over the Key barrel and the PATS circuit board onto a replacement column I got from the wreckers. Plugged it all in and bolted it back together but car still wont start. The key seems to function normally now, with the right clicks etc, but the car doesnt do anything at all when the key is turned. The ICC screen says Security code error. I was under the impression that I this wouldn't happen if I used my original key, barrel and PATS board. Is there anything I can do or will I have to get it towed to ford after all? I have an X3 flash tuner if that makes any difference?

Thanks Adam. Looking through that it would seem I unbolt the shaft from the fire wall and remove the entire assembly. The parts I have seen on ebay dont appear to include the lower shaft. Maybe I will just have to go to a wrecker and get the whole thing.

Hi Sorry to start a new thread about this but I am really stuck. I have been trying to remove my steering column to fix an ignition issue and have got upto removing it from the steering shaft (I think that's what it is called). Can anyone tell me how to separate the main part of the column from the shaft. I have attached some pics of where I am upto with it.The first photo shows the parts I need to seperate. The previous topic is here: http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/83669-bf-ignition-barrel-problem-need-help/

So I have started pulling apart the car to try and fix this issue. So far I have the steering wheel off, the plastic cover off the column and all the wires unplugged. I have hit a snag now as I don't know how to get the steering shaft off the part that I am trying to remove. I have take some photos of where I am up to with it.

Ok so if I get a column from a wreckers, I can pull mine out, swap my barrel onto it and put it into the car. This will mean my original keys will work without the need to reprogram anything? In my town the local mechanics don't seem to like to do anything more than log book servicing, and seeing as the car wont start my options seem limited. edit: my keys are the flat type that I think are standard of BF models. The car is an 08 BF2 XR6T.

If I was to get a replacement steering column, is it an ok DIY job? Can I use the barrel from my car and put it on the replacement steering rack to keep using the same key or doe these keys have some type of chip in them that will screw all this up. As you can probably tell I am pretty confused about this situation. Thanks for the help.

Hi I went out to start my car today and the key spins freely in the barrel and nothing happens. the car does not start. There seems to be a weak click between position I and II but nothing between II and III. I did a search and found some topics on BA having similar issues but in those topics the cars all started, where as mine nothing happens at all. They also had the key springing back to the off position where as min will just sit where ever it is left Has anyone had this issue before, or know what it is or how to fix it? cheers

I would (and did) use one of the site sponsor tuners. That way you know you are getting someone that knows these cars well.

I have no idea if there was one, and I appologise for starting this thread, never expected it to turn out like this. My intention was to maybe save people from of getting defected for a pod filter or something, not to start a hate thread. It is embarrassing to be the OP of this thread.

Got the car back from the auto trans place on wednesday. Ended up costing me $565, I was happy to pay it so I could use the car again. I got it out today (dont use it in the week) and noticed a fair amount of oil on the floor. Parked it somewhere else for around 2 hours and when I moved it they was an oil patch about the size of a CD. Looks like it is leaking arom around the base plate of the trans now, and its leaking way worse than before it was 'fixed'. My biggest concern is how to get it pack to the trans place when its a 45 min drive, how much oil and I lose and it still be driveable?

Thanks for the help. Best quote to do this work was $450-550, and that was cheaper cause I have the seperate pan and filter, not the combined on like in the link. Does this seem fair?

Hi I noticed an oil leak from my gearbox and took it to a local mechanic in Cessnock. He tells me it is the o ring on the transducer. He reckons the job is too complicated for him and I need to take it to a specialist place in Newcastle. However since I am employed 2hours away from newcastle this creates a bit of an issue. I have asked a larger franchised mechanic about it and they want to look at it before they will tell me if they can do it or not. Changing an O-ring sounds pretty simple to me, I am assuming that it must be accessing the o-ring that is the challenge. I was wondering if anyone else has had this issue before, and if the job really is so hard that it can only be done by specialist auto-trans places.

Just a quick heads up. I have heard from 2 completely different places today that the police will really be cracking down on modified cars this weekend. Apparently they may have EPA officers (do those exist?) with them. I realise that I am not providing much info, but I just thought that some people might like a bit of a heads up.

I agree ep 3 was great. If only used car prices were so good here. Love that Merc Jezza got, even if it does have she juice in it.

Mine has just started doing this on the drive home from work today. It is really really loud. I have not even had the thing installed for a year yet. Did you find out if it was the filter, the rubber or something else entirely?

I have BF goodrich G Force Sports. I am happy with them. They were about $170 each fitted. These were reccomended to me by a few places when I was looking for the Falkens.

lol Worm Q: Hey buddy... People are making fun of you on forums everywhere... Your car is lucky to be worth $13000... Its got a sh*t interior, sh*t wheels, sh*t auto and if it has 300rwkw it will blow it up... Stop f*cking kidding yourself and you may sell the car... Start it at $10k... And you may get a bid... Worm 10-Nov-10 A: couldnt give a sh*t this car owes over 40k I can't believe he included this in his ad.

Yeah and for 1/2 a mil on the badge. Anyone who bought a non-genuine badge would have to be happy if it was only 1/2 a mil out. From the look of my car I'd say ford doesn't even get their tolerances that fine. Also there is no fpv badge in his ebay history.

Q: Sweet ride bro!!! Was wonderin if it been in any magz like street fords or nethin? Also my mate has a hektik prelude wif vtek. Can u put vtek on this, and wat would the 1/4 time be wif vtek? Oh and how fast with mefenol race fule?