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silkhammer

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  1. This makes sense. I've just found my front two tyres absolutely destroyed on the inside edge, particularly the front right - not the whole inside band as the car has always worn a bit at the front, but literally the inside 5mm has been torn off. The "alignment" guys are saying is is due to excessive camber, but I keep insisting it feels like it is toe-ing out under brakes (it's wandering around like buggery). And the camber is at about 1.4deg on the RH and 1.8deg on the LH, they've always been more than 1deg since new and generally it has worn the insides more than the outsides, but not too badly and I've still been able to get down to nearly the tread-wear indicators in the middle before the inside got too bad. Also, if it was camber then the LH should be worse that the right, which is the opposite of the fact. I really think it is toe out under brakes, and because of the slight crown of the road I have to steer slightly to the right of neutral which means the inside edge of the right tyre has copped a caning. My question then is (and please excuse my ignorance) - are the "castor bushes" in the lower arm that runs forward on a 45deg angle from the bottom of the hub and connects to the subframe just ahead of the sway-bar? Can you buy and fit replacement bushes yourself or will Ford only sell you the whole castor arm? And is there a more durable option which does not completely ruin the NVH of the front end? Thanks.
  2. Are they known to be weak? Because mine has only done 60k, not abused, and the problem has been there since the day it was delivered, so although I can see why buggered lower bushes might create the problem, I am doubtful that's it in this case - I've been under the front end recently poking about, and they all looked pretty good. I have also heard rumours that Ford changed the "specs" sometime since the FG was introduced, on account of such issues - anyone know of this?
  3. My FG XR6T has a shocking habit of scrubbing the insides, predominantly on the front end but I suspect the rear end a bit as well (hard to be 100% sure as I rotate pretty regularly). It's standard suspension, and has happened both on the Dunlop OEs and the Sumitomos I have since - it's pretty annoying as I'm chucking tyres with 10k left at least over 80% of the tread, just the inside "band" is rooted (down to the canvas on one - whoops!). I've been getting regular wheel alignments, I make sure I get a copy of the before and after figures, there's never really much change, but I've always suspected a bit more toe-in is necessary. Camber is minimal. Has anyone else experimented with additional toe-in, and found it to improve? What sort of toe-in figures are you using? Cheers.
  4. At the risk of bringing bringing what appears to be a fairly controversial thread back to the top, can anyone shed any light on the build dates potentially affected by the HIM / flap thingy issue? My XR6T is Aug08 build, and I have to say that I have been particularly disappoiinted with the AC performance since delivery, and yes I've tried all the settings possible, including manual ("semi-auto") low setting etc etc. I've asked the dealer to look at it every service, thus far they keep saying that the gas levels etc are "within normal range" and refuse to do much else, which is annoying. Perhaps if mine might be affected by the potential fault/recall I can direct them specifically to check it? They are telling me that "they've not had any problems with FG AC", but it appears from this thread that potentially there are some dodgy ones out there? And I promise I'm not just whinging - the old man has now had two different G6Es, both in darker colours, and they've both had waaaay better AC performance than mine, same with several XR6 renta-wrecks I've had.
  5. I'm looking at changing the gearbox oil in my FG manual, after about 40k - while it's a lot better to use now that it's been run in a bit, it's still fairly arkward when cold, to the point of graunching into 2nd fairly consistently. Anyone found an oil that's worked well for them? Apparently Transmax was the go with the T56, is that still applicable to the TR6060? Cheers.
  6. I think what we need to remember is that speed does NOT kill, the d1ckheads behind the wheel do. Speed increases the impact, but the cause of the impact can be a multitude of factors (including speed in some cases). Speed limits are set at arbitrarily low levels to allow for average drivers in average cars in average conditions - this does not mean you are safe at the speed limit in all conditions, and that is the point; drivers need to be able to determine what is an appropriate and safe speed for a given set of conditions. The current attitude to speed limits forced on us by the authorities encourages us to focus only on the speed limit, not on the conditions or what speed is safe for the conditions. What we must also consider is that a good proportion of crashes are caused by morons who will drive like w@nkers no matter what extra rules or regulations are brought in. Enforcing harsher penalties regarding license demerit points will only affect the majority of the community who generally drive safely and responsibly, and occasionally get caught out at 4km/h over the limit on a downhill gradient in the middle of no-where by a sly camera-operator. The morons will continue to drive with or without a license, so don't really give a toss about it. If the authorities were really interested in making holiday periods safer (and all times for that matter), police PRESENCE on the roads would prevent a lot of incidents caused by impatient, potentially in-experienced drivers. Let's focus more on things like in-attentiveness, dangerous over-taking, driving without due care (which includes phone use etc), un-roadworthy vehicles, and most importantly, DRIVING WITHOUT A LICENSE. I have never, in 12 years on the roads, been asked to show my license. Which, I may add, was far too easy to get in the first place, and is another area where more attention should be shown by governments. A driver's license should be a priviledge, not a right.
  7. My Gen5 30GB iPod connects and works fine in my FG T. It does annoy me though that you can't scroll fast through long lists like with the iPod itself - ie. if I'm trying to get down to a band starting with 'S' and go into "Artists", which means you start from the top, it takes a friggin long time to scroll down through the couple of hundred other artists to get there, which ain't that helpful when trying to drive a manual in traffic. Has anyone found a feature that I haven't? Or some clever way around it? I tried creating playlists with artists starting with each letter (ie A-Z) but then it only shows the song names when scrolling through them, not the artists. I'm being picky I know (at least mine works!), just thought I'd see if anyone has any ideas...
  8. OK, thanks for that, will keep an ear on it. The shift is definitely a LOT better when it's warmed up properly, which makes me think the right trans oil could be the key. Seems Transmax Z is the go for the old T56, anyone used it in their TR6060 yet? I'd be very interested to hear from anyone getting good results out of a particular oil in this box. How long do I need to keep the OE oil in?
  9. Hi all, I'm another newbie to the forum. I picked up my manual FG XR6T 3 weeks ago, have put about 1300kms on it so far. While I absolutely love the car, I'm still a little concerned I've made the wrong choice of the manual over the ZF... I fully expected it to be a bit truck-ish, after all the box is supposed to be designed for 800Nm. From day one I've had the "clutch depressing rattle", mainly only noticeable on 1st, but you can hear it in neutral too. I was thinking something along the lines of PhantmXR6 about this one, so not too worried, and you can drive around it farily easily. I also noticed the vibration through the shifter, which was a bit alarming to start with but I've grown used to it. What kind of sh1ts me though is the drivetrain noise/rattle while under load at low revs in 1st and 2nd - most noticeable with the window down. It sounds very much to me like a noise we used to get in Patrol diesel utes which we attributed to the springs in the pressure plate (unsure of terminology here) rattling as a result of the load and engine vibration combination. I had assumed it was clutch noise becuase of this but maybe I'm hearing what you guys are describing as gearbox noise?? I also get two noises in the cabin from the shifter - one is the vibration causing the leather boot to squeak, and there is a seperate (and louder) squeak coming from below somewhere, which directly correlates to the vibration of the shifter, and which I suspect is a dry gearbox rubber mount. It is getting progressively louder to the point where even my gf is whinging about it. I will climb under on the w/e to try and lube it somehow. Overall though, I could deal with the various noises if the bloody thing shifted OK - unfortunately I haven't been hugely impressed thus far. It's obstinance through the 1/2 and 2/3 shifts makes smooth driving in traffic almost impossible, particularly when cold. When it's cold the engine also hesitates as I release the clutch/reapply throttle, which exaggerates the whole lack of smoothness and makes me look and feel like a learner driver. Hopefully this can be solved at it's first check-up if they re-flash it. I'm hoping it will get better and smoother with some more kays like Michael said - the one thing I can say is that I'm not experiencing any back-lash to speak of, so mine might just have been built "tight". I don't want this to look like a massive whinge - the car is fantastic, and I haven't had any problems thus far, I just want to make sure my manual issues are no worse than anyone elses! Fuel-wise, I've averaged around 12L on highway driving and 16L around town, average sort of driving with occasional squirts, I'm sure it will get better as it loosens up. Apologies for the epic post.
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