Jact

I'm keen for October. $120~$130 sounds pretty good to me.

What do you mean Bellato? Is there something we don't know?

+1 to that

I've re-gapped the spark plugs to 0.8mm and the top-end RPM is definitely punchier. I re-filmed my takeoff and it's dropped from 7.5 seconds to about 6~6.5 seconds. I also did a compression tests on the cylinders (psi) but they look fine: 1 - 1902 - 1803 - 1954 - 1955 - 1956 - 195 I can see the logic behind that argument, as more cat restriction could decrease exhaust gas velocity and increase back pressure and even though it's making ~12psi it is taking longer than normal to get on boost because the car is not compensating for this. At the moment the car is up for sale so I'm not going to spend $1K on a retune when I don't have to (it can go towards a FG F6 ), but if there are some other things I can check, I'll give it a go!

I'll give 0.8mm a go tomorrow and report back but I have a feeling it is to do with the boost not coming on early enough rather than blow out. No the original cat was OEM and the new one is aftermarket (non hi flow) and I didn't get it re-tuned with the new cat. The car wasn't any slower/quicker with the turbo rebuild & new cat installed, but you're right the car definitely feels excessively laggy at low rpm. I want to investigate all other possibilities before I fork out $1K on a re-tune that might not do anything

Sorry forgot, I had the turbo rebuilt and a new cat fitted before I had the car dyno'd a few months ago. Ok I'll give them a re-gap from 1.1mm to say 0.9mm? Whops yeah it's 5.91 seconds for the 2003 XR6T according to Motor Magazine... but I'm still 1.5 seconds slower than stock.

Hi guys, I've noticed my XR6T is not so fast these days even with the few mods the previous owner did: CAIBMC Air filterFPV intercoolerLow temp thermostatCustom tune= typically 300FWKW right? In reality I achieve about 200RWKW (sorry no dyno sheet the guys were really slack) and a 0-100 time of about 7.5 seconds (see the video) If a stock BA XR6T does 0-100 in 5.1 then I’m losing a sheep load of power, but the car runs well, so I can't think what it could be? I've changed the plugs (NGK FR6EI-11), O2 sensor (Bosch), Ford cleaned the fuel injectors and replaced the coil packs and I'm getting about 12psi boost at 3500 RPM. Would anyone have a suggestion on what might be going on?

Driving around I've noticed the boost doesn't fully come on until about 3500 RPM Yeah it's been tuned (so Ford tell me) and the boost gauge is hitting about 12psi. It really doesn't feel that quick but I think that's for another topic...

Ok so the install pic above is correct guys it was the boost gauge causing the problem. The needle was stuck against the glass and not moving. Now when I turn the car on the gauge instantly jumps down to about negative 40~50 psi and driving around I can get it up to about positive 10~12 psi. Surprisingly to me the boost doesn't begin to come on until about 60% throttle, no matter what RPM its doing! Maybe this is a dumb question but isn't the boost from the turbo proportional to the engine RPM not the throttle position?

Ok hopefully you can see the pic now? That does sound like the same place I have my T piece, but the gauge just sites on 0 psi, it doesn't move at all when I turn on the car or rev it. Thanks for the links Paulie, it sound like others have put the T-piece coming off the BOV to. Hmmm maybe my new gauge is dead...

Hi guys, I've done some searching but surprisingly little comes up about the specifics of this. Where exactly have people connected their T-Piece for a mechanical boost gauge on a XR6T? I fitted mine to the manifold end of the blow-off-valve but it doesn't seem to give any pressure. https://itbtra.bay.livefilestore.com/y1p_V33iy1GPjfvfuRelTo9wEx8T0aWr89NhTG92tgdd8o_eBDckqvBP2V4K8Y2bcZjpMCmXn2Rw-Y/DSC_0710.jpg

I'm backing Sprjenkins here, the larger surface area of bigger brakes has everything to do with reduced braking distances, sure heat, pad friction, etc. affect this but what he said is without a doubt true and factual! Also Winstor's post is quite good as the NCOP's state: Fitting disk brakes that are not a manufacturer’s option - requires certification Also interesting to note that it mentions International Standards & Association Standards for braking systems (ie. rotors, callipers) are recognised in Australia as compliant!