JETURBO

I still like to Chit all over members though

That’s what Motive believe and to be fair Garrett rate pretty conservative so yeh a G40 1150 would do 1000whp on a Barra

Monroe GT’s ……

Oh yummy !

Looking good mate, Jamie doing his thing again !

Hey mate They’re “Billet Specialties” in 17*X10* with 6.5* back space and 5x114.3 stud pattern The Tyres are M/T’s Street R with 315/50/17 Fronts are again “Billet Specialties” in 17*x4.5 2.25 backspace fronts

Mehhh I fitted a transmission cooler and serviced the ZF so that’s kind of Australian haha Did break in a mini Webber Q at the same time so that’s definitely up there

530rwkw with a 1.01 is pretty aggressive indeed haha, that should be a tonne of fun mate !

Flat battery !!!

Hundo bro

Back to work and feeling meh 😑

Replace the TPS sensor mate

Then your justification makes sense mate, go for it

That’s how I would do it if you’re concerned about warm up time and maintaining a narrow band of temp, All of which isn’t necessary unless you’re in extreme negative temp areas. If your coldest mornings are 0* without major snow/frost the ZF will warm the fluid at an acceptable rate per minute as the fluid will always maintain around 10* above ambient when as low as 0* ( so starting point 10* oil T )

Congratulations Alex ! Onwards and upwards with her cooking haha

you’re correct with above trace out and hence it’s lacking, fine multi strand high cross sectional area pre terminated cable is best in all cases for cost and finish. I’ve previously used the inhibitor as an add in despite it being not recommended under typical ratio mixes ( commonly 50ml to 1ltr of de min ) I’ve added 10ml to around 1ltr coolant 33% ratio Glycol mix ( off the shelf premixed 6year coolants ) Typically a B series falcon will take about 8ltrs of coolant on a flush and about 12ltrs on a first fill empty engine/system I will assume you potentially used about 10ltrs of coolant to fill your new system / radiator? If so remove aprox 800ml to 1ltr and add in inhibitor of around this capacity to your coolant and it will help protect the aluminium cores on that PWR beauty If in doubt under mix vs over mix as even in small dose’s inhibitor works well

Yep indeed it was a decent outlay but it’s now or never really so on the train we went ! Anything old that’s had some kind of restoration or kept in good shape is just fetching silly money these day’s and unfortunately the covid bubble doesn’t really apply to these so much as they’re always just going upwards. That said I can’t wait to take that iconic picture that the XY GT was famous for, mind you I won’t be doing that speed haha

Yeh I’m happy to go slow in her, nothing else like a good cruiser if she makes the right sounds

Replica, Genuine has just surpassed $1,000,000 as a regular base price point now which is a bit too much lol. Can’t wait to pick it up ! Solid bucket list vehicle for me and @Mrs Jeturbo as XY GT’s have always been that one bad ass bus. I mean the engine sticks through the bonnet and that’s cool as sheet

Ima just leave this here ….. Pretty excited 😍

Mate same I’ve been pretty full on “Flu” symptoms and my official test came back negative and a Rapid Antigen one too. meanwhile flat out snots,sneezing,sore throat, coughing ! #Covidlies

Hey mate Yep that’s about how they fit up and looks pretty good from here. B series do suffer from electrolysis no question and the best way to see a reduction is by super good clean earthing system. Upgrade the main Negative to chassis with a pre terminated 4GA “minimum” cable and same for the engine block. Feel free to double up in these areas and obviously clean paint/grime free purchase on the connection points, spring star washers and nut & bolt system. Remember the engine can use earth points in various areas ( sump/block/rockercover/water pump ancillary bracket ) The factory stuff really wasn’t great new so after 14-16 years she’s well degraded. At the alternator make sure she’s clean bolted to the block via it’s typical bracket with no loose connections too. secondary use a coolant “inhibitor” additive as part of a new complete fill This should bring a substantial drop in those figures.

I have to use Aviation spec closed end 10mm spanner to get them off and yes they’re hella tight so I wrap them in a rag and tape it down so your hand doesn’t feel like it’s about to break in half lol These two bolts are in a massive khunty spot but again I’m only ever removing the manifold to do a new gasket, High mount or because the turbo to manifold studs/nut thread themselves doing the turbo swop so then re stud the manifold on bench. There’s always the hope it’s been off once beforehand as it’ll never be as tight as they come from factory lol If you get the turbo off first it’s easier again just for hand placement at least

You have correct information mate ! PWR55 is the big daddy and works mint with factory fans/shrouds for circuit work Bolts in like factory too !

Nhegggg BA-BF super easy to remove the whole manifold to do the changeover on bench as the B series Turbo/manifold flange bolts are in a bit of a dick spot FG super bitch head to remove the manifold 3-4 cylinder lower 10mm hex head bolts as ford also used some killer thread locker on the bolts unlike B series loose bolts that said the FG turbo/manifold x4 14mm nuts are super easy to get to all x4 with just a simple ring/ratchet spanner 🔧 All you need is a new GT35 gasket pack from MTQ / Inox / 14mm / 19mm socket / 17mm socket and ratchet / 7mm socket for water outlet clamps / 13mm socket for Dump pipe nuts Easy as brah