groper

sorry lads, for some reason we cant sort out why its stalling with the limiter armed only when its idleing... we think its electronic noise confusing the unit into thinking its reving past the set limit so it pulls spark and killswitches the engine. apart from that (900+rpm) it works fine although its never been tested on the track due to me taking a new job in MT Isa 1000kms from the nearest track... ill probably send it down to dave (blueboost) and let him track test it one of these days...

I went the other way, put 3.46 in and took out the 3.73... I did this as I was on the limiter crossing the line in 4th at the drags... I tried shifting into 5th and I dropped 5mph... bad idea that extra shift... plus on the hwy, I get sweet economy... id say in a manual, its gonna cost you 1/4 mile times by going to 4.1`s as youll def have to shift 5th...

I thought the paint on my BF was pretty damn shocking aswell... heaps of orange peal everywhere... its like the apprentice down the local panel shop coulda done a better job???

dion from dynomite runs a small shot of NOS im pretty sure... give him a yell about the tuning side of things with it.

mix your own mate... buy toluene and xylene from the local paint wholesaler or northern chemicals... that's what I do...

its published earlier in the thread... they cost around $300

ok well, I dont have alot of time at present but it goes somthing like this... First you remove the rocker garnish and pair back and expose one of the 2 wires going to each coil pack. You then solder on a wire to each coil without cutting it. These wires are then reinsulated and the rocker cover replaced with an extra bundle coming out the back near the firewall. This then goes inside the car to where you mount the box up behind the dash or similar... The then have a choice of where to mount your switches... I chose to do a "no holes" install and mount them all in a junction box cable tied to the center console beside my left knee. alternatively, you could use some of the cruise control buttons on your steering wheel or what ever you want. The idea is is you now have 2 spark cut rev limiters that can be set by pressing a momentary switch for each, and activated by pressing another for each... so you need 4 buttons or switches in total. I use 1 for launch control and the other for a flatshift limiter. The unit takes a split second to "remember" the rpm at which you hit the button. So its very quick and easy to do as I showed in the vid. The unit then cuts spark to alternate cylinders to keep the RPM in check when you active it and this happens without the PCM "knowing" whats going on so it keeps the throttle open and fuel injectors squirting. This builds the boost and prevents the blow off valve from opening if the throttle were closed. Very simple, but very effective.

you can fit it yourself if your handy with a bit of electrical work... a little soldering is required... yep its all in one package the size of 2 matchboxs...

sure... no track run yet courtesy of a certain somone taking in excess of 1 month to get my clutch back to me :banghead: should get a run in next weekend...

its available now... but as im not a sponsor, obviously I cant advertise it here...

you need launch control my man... builds boost in neautral before you let the clutch out...

I fitted the plenum and cooler before getting tuned... no problems, if it overboosts itll just go limp mode, no big deal... just dont get into it too much before you get tuned and youll be fine... as for the plenums making more power, they do on less boost, but only by a fly sh*t,,, like 10rwkw or somthing... or maybe .5psi of boost...

all we got so far... dave might have a better one...

atomic internals, stock plenum, cant remeber what the cooler is, PWR I think? stock head... turbo is a "swanko special"... its a custom supra turbo using a GT42 frame, with unknown to me compressor and wheels etc... supposed to flow 1200hp anyways... 5inch inlet and POD. 4inch exhaust (no cat I think???), 6boost manifold with ext gate and screamer. only single 044 pump and siemans deka injectors, this is why the power is "only" 450rwkw... its run out of fuel, new injectors and another 044 are going in... C4 auto done by ALS race glides and I dunno what converter, but its flaring to 6200rpm with 17% slip atm, needs to be sorted... kent will have to fill you in on the rest...

it depends on how the engine is setup... like what mods it has and the tune... if its got all the right gear, then 380rwkw @ 17-18psi is no problem with a tuner that knows their stuff properly. This is as far as practical with the stock turbo. According to a few REPUTABLE tuners, change the turbo to a t51 and you can push 420rwkw @ 15.5psi on stock internals with all the right gear... those in the know, know... there are few, that are in the know though... with a very good intercooler, the intake temps stay cool and therefore higher boost is ok. with a bigger turbo, the power is made with less boost and even lower intake temps, making the safe limit higher again... providing all the supporting mods are done.... if your car is stock, and dont change much, then 12psi is about as far as id go with it too... and youll only get 300rwkw if that... read my friend, read, its all in here if you search for it...