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Dear Community, my name is Riccardo and I hope that you can help me out, because nobody in Europe has ever heard of the BTR/ION/DSI transmission. I bought my childhood dream, a Maserati 3200 GT which has the M72 version installed and that gives me a tremendous headache. On my first "real" test drive the transmission decided to fail. The car is not moving forward or backwards. Since there is nobody who knows anything about the transmission, I took action myself and disassembled it. Turns out 2 clutch packs are burned and the planetary has gotten a lot of wear, so it can not be reused. After some months I came across a used auto transmission, put it into the car, but the same problem still occured. So I guess the torque converter is broken and has caused the prior damage. My reasearch about BTR always leads to Australia, but when I try to look something up, I can hardly find anything. It is not possible for me to find parts on e.g. Ebay or other websites. (Guess they are bind to specific locations) Have already tried to message some Youtubers and companies, but never received a reply. This is why I am hoping to find some infos in here. I´d be happy if someone would tell me a source for parts, alternatives or any which will help me putting a working transmission back into the car, so I can eventually enjoy it. I´m open to modifications, swaps, conversations to a manual etc. Any knowledge, hints or tips are highly appreciated ! Lots of greetings from Italy Riccardo

Gave the boost tee two more turns today and it did fark all. No doubt there is something there but the seat of the pants was lacklustre. Pretty sure I can have my custom four inch turbo back system installed in a few hours. Gotta cut an shut a bit of it but the parts are here and I'm getting antsy. Hopefully it's not too loud lol

I have a 2002 XR6T manual with exactly the same problem that I have been chasing for half a year now. The car is totally stock (no flash tunes) and has been maintained very fastidiously since I bought it 19 years ago. The symptoms are that the fuel pump relay cuts out and then, the starter relay won't allow the engine to crank. It happens when the engine gets hot (it can occur after a short while in warm driving conditions, or after a short drive and stopping for a while - and heat soaking occurring) both the fuel pump and starter relays won't work. I have done significant testing to get to the "cause" of these relays not working including making a circuit board up with LEDs to monitor the voltages at each pin on both relays. I've traced the problem to the PCM not pulling the B27 FP pin (926) and EEC B (324) pin (for the fuel pump relay and starter relay respectively) to ground. These relays require the PCM to ground the negative pin on their coil to allow the PCM to turn them off (e.g. to turn off the fuel pump if the engine stalls). I have even run my diagnostics wires to the connector at the PCM to be sure the issue is not in the wiring loom as my diagnostics also includes two over-ride switches that I can switch to provide an alternate ground (instead of the PCM) and therefore allow the car to run when the fault occurs. When I use these override switches, the fuel pump and starter relays work fine (though obviously this is not safe to do as the fuel pump will continue to run if the engine stalls - say after a big accident - but this is just to diagnose the issue). I have sent the PCM, BCM and key to Injectronics for testing on their test rig and although the issue was still pretty intermittent the first time I sent it (it now is very consistent) and yet both times, they can't replicate the fault. I have faith in their testing and can only conclude that something (an input to the PCM) is causing it to turn both these relays off for some reason. As I said above, the fault occurs with heat (Injectronics tested it with heat and cold conditions, visually inspected the board for dry solder joints, cracks in tracks and blown ICs). I have seen the familiar DTC code (P0230) occur but to be honest, I need to do some more testing and reading of the Ford manual. I did wonder if it could be the crank sensor but I wouldn't expect that it would stop the starter output on the PCM from working (and you'd think it would also make it run pretty rough). I then wondered if it was something to do with the security system but when problem first occurs, the relay flickers (for a couple of seconds) before it cuts out (so its unlikely that the security system would trigger - via CAN - a flickering engine cut coms signal). Also (according to the Ford Manual), the security system also cuts ignition, so it can't be that as my "over-ride" switches allow the engine to run fine (when the fault occurs). I think I need to do some more testing (and reading of the Ford Manual) but I think my issue is very similar to yours and probably due to the same cause.

safe as houses

Seen this today

I'm exactly the same as you. I'm just going through the process of tidying my engine bay. Nexus R5 and new wiring loom etc...

So yeah nothing much exciting going on really, I fixed a wiring issue on the territory today that prevented being able to manually shift gears. Now I can stall it up in 2nd gear, 3500rpm, full boost which is around 16psi and let it rip. It goes ok but it's probably just as quick using first gear. Nothing a bit more power wouldn't fix though

Yes. NOS = New old stock. I have lots of parts. Bezels, inserts, undertrays, grill mount and top sections... I also collected a lot of other BA/BF parts- NOS dash pad, door rubbers, weather strips, headlights, boot lids, quarter panels etc. The way I see it, is if you want to drive it. you have to be able to fix it... BA/BF will be like all other cars. parts will very soon be hard to get and buyers will be forced to pay a premium to restore/repair their cars.. After all, my car is almost 20 years old. 10 years to go before it can be placed on club rego...

morning all, happy Saturday 📨

I've found "quilton" does the job no finger-through-the-paper problems haha morning all, happy Friday 📧

Super tidy engine bay. Love it

The cam timing is more retarded at idle and cruise by about 10 degrees which makes it quieter.

This is why you're posting in the Coversions, Transplants and FRANKENSTEINS page haha What you're talking about is a big and ambitious job! That's why I, for one, am so excited to follow your journey. Even if you don't do it, it's really cool to see the fact finding process

awesome! I'm keen to follow your build! If you need a hand with homework, let us know. There's always someone around who's interested in helping out