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Hi all, it's been a while.. I couldn't get the VN ready in time for Rockynats, so I put some time in to the old girl and got her mobile again. As I had to pull the IRS to replace the outer diff support bushes, I decided to finally assemble the Try Trac that has been sitting in the shed for the past 4 years. While I was at it, I put a new set of Dana gears, so that I didn't have to cannibalise the centre that was being removed. Having missed all previous Rocky Nats due to work, I decided that I was not going to miss another. I have a great time, met many wonderful people and checked out some really cool rides. I didn't take any pics of the car, but I found some on the Nat page that I have shared below. I have also included a current pic of the bay. It has changed somewhat and looks a lot neater. The car was running really crappy, which is why I haven't really been interested in it. My tuna (Joke) installed the latest firmware update and utilised the new manifold pressure predication vs fuel table, car now runs like factory, no more hunting at idle, or stalling. For the first time in a while, I can honestly say that I really enjoy driving the car again. I have also started to make some carbon parts again, although it has been somewhat of a learning curve. I am currently toying with a new rocker garnish to suit the FG rocker cover (1st attempt failed due to air leak in the bagging, so I laid up a new one in the mould tonight) and will soon start on a modified version of the radiator sight cover. I will also have to find some time to remove the dash, as the dreaded mixer shaft failure has finally eventuated. FML Until next time... 🍺

Righto I did my thing and here's an update. I did a comp test and one of the cylinders was low with others being out of spec too. Turns out the head was leaking like a mofo out of the exhaust valves...so I rebuilt the engine. I used stock turbo pistons, Spool I beam rods, upgraded piston pins, Cometic 3 layer MLS, ARP head studs with OS washers, new hx bearings with 360 thrust, inconel high pressure oil pump spring with adjustable relief, oil pump gears and backing plate, Ross balancer, Plazmaman intake and maybe more I forgot. I got hectic with the valve grinding paste and the head is passable. I relocated my trans cooler under the car and wired in the fan with a relay and a switch. I painted the rocker cover with Black Velvet Cerakote, it was sh*t before and now is a bit less sh*t. Haha I still gotta fit the catch can, I'll do that later I suppose. I've had a successful test drive or 3 today, no leaks etc so happy days. It still runs the same boost, it makes 300awkw on about 14.7psi. This should tide me over until I can afford to rebuilt the actual turbo territory. The only thing I really want to do with it now is to have electronic boost control, the na pcm doesn't have that so I'm in the gutter using a boost tee. Here's a pic, hard to believe I did it all in the span of 1 week, in the driveway, while still having family commitments.

Thought it would be appropriate to thank the people most responsible for the successful completion of this project. * This bloke needs no introduction. Aaron aka JETURBO for all the engine and fabrication work. Words are not enough to express how grateful I am for the time and effort that Aaron put into this car. The result is something to behold. Thanks mate. * Paul @ PE Customs in Brisbane for the paint job which is perfection personified * Mike @ Mike Savage Custom Bonnets at Bargo in NSW. It’s a hybrid design we cooked up that actually works. It’s that heavy I had to get new bonnet struts to hold it up lol.

The cam timing is more retarded at idle and cruise by about 10 degrees which makes it quieter.

I dont think you can call it Na anymore. Its got more fruit than a turbo terry since you've been hard at work

Cheers, this is my cart... add hose, rad zip ties and gulf western atf, filter and gasket and I think im sorted. https://imgur.com/ZB15x18

I've increased the boost on the na+t territory and it makes a bit over 300awkw and 600nm on 15psi. As a result the trans needed an update to the tune, which I did this morning. Once again the shifts are quick and crisp and you wouldn't know it's an na trans in there. I think this is where I'll stop the increase in power, it is a na engine after all. When the time is right I'll do some minor engine work to it so it can handle all the boost, but for now it will do.

Dear Community, my name is Riccardo and I hope that you can help me out, because nobody in Europe has ever heard of the BTR/ION/DSI transmission. I bought my childhood dream, a Maserati 3200 GT which has the M72 version installed and that gives me a tremendous headache. On my first "real" test drive the transmission decided to fail. The car is not moving forward or backwards. Since there is nobody who knows anything about the transmission, I took action myself and disassembled it. Turns out 2 clutch packs are burned and the planetary has gotten a lot of wear, so it can not be reused. After some months I came across a used auto transmission, put it into the car, but the same problem still occured. So I guess the torque converter is broken and has caused the prior damage. My reasearch about BTR always leads to Australia, but when I try to look something up, I can hardly find anything. It is not possible for me to find parts on e.g. Ebay or other websites. (Guess they are bind to specific locations) Have already tried to message some Youtubers and companies, but never received a reply. This is why I am hoping to find some infos in here. I´d be happy if someone would tell me a source for parts, alternatives or any which will help me putting a working transmission back into the car, so I can eventually enjoy it. I´m open to modifications, swaps, conversations to a manual etc. Any knowledge, hints or tips are highly appreciated ! Lots of greetings from Italy Riccardo

I have a 2002 XR6T manual with exactly the same problem that I have been chasing for half a year now. The car is totally stock (no flash tunes) and has been maintained very fastidiously since I bought it 19 years ago. The symptoms are that the fuel pump relay cuts out and then, the starter relay won't allow the engine to crank. It happens when the engine gets hot (it can occur after a short while in warm driving conditions, or after a short drive and stopping for a while - and heat soaking occurring) both the fuel pump and starter relays won't work. I have done significant testing to get to the "cause" of these relays not working including making a circuit board up with LEDs to monitor the voltages at each pin on both relays. I've traced the problem to the PCM not pulling the B27 FP pin (926) and EEC B (324) pin (for the fuel pump relay and starter relay respectively) to ground. These relays require the PCM to ground the negative pin on their coil to allow the PCM to turn them off (e.g. to turn off the fuel pump if the engine stalls). I have even run my diagnostics wires to the connector at the PCM to be sure the issue is not in the wiring loom as my diagnostics also includes two over-ride switches that I can switch to provide an alternate ground (instead of the PCM) and therefore allow the car to run when the fault occurs. When I use these override switches, the fuel pump and starter relays work fine (though obviously this is not safe to do as the fuel pump will continue to run if the engine stalls - say after a big accident - but this is just to diagnose the issue). I have sent the PCM, BCM and key to Injectronics for testing on their test rig and although the issue was still pretty intermittent the first time I sent it (it now is very consistent) and yet both times, they can't replicate the fault. I have faith in their testing and can only conclude that something (an input to the PCM) is causing it to turn both these relays off for some reason. As I said above, the fault occurs with heat (Injectronics tested it with heat and cold conditions, visually inspected the board for dry solder joints, cracks in tracks and blown ICs). I have seen the familiar DTC code (P0230) occur but to be honest, I need to do some more testing and reading of the Ford manual. I did wonder if it could be the crank sensor but I wouldn't expect that it would stop the starter output on the PCM from working (and you'd think it would also make it run pretty rough). I then wondered if it was something to do with the security system but when problem first occurs, the relay flickers (for a couple of seconds) before it cuts out (so its unlikely that the security system would trigger - via CAN - a flickering engine cut coms signal). Also (according to the Ford Manual), the security system also cuts ignition, so it can't be that as my "over-ride" switches allow the engine to run fine (when the fault occurs). I think I need to do some more testing (and reading of the Ford Manual) but I think my issue is very similar to yours and probably due to the same cause.

Seen this today

So yeah nothing much exciting going on really, I fixed a wiring issue on the territory today that prevented being able to manually shift gears. Now I can stall it up in 2nd gear, 3500rpm, full boost which is around 16psi and let it rip. It goes ok but it's probably just as quick using first gear. Nothing a bit more power wouldn't fix though

Yes. NOS = New old stock. I have lots of parts. Bezels, inserts, undertrays, grill mount and top sections... I also collected a lot of other BA/BF parts- NOS dash pad, door rubbers, weather strips, headlights, boot lids, quarter panels etc. The way I see it, is if you want to drive it. you have to be able to fix it... BA/BF will be like all other cars. parts will very soon be hard to get and buyers will be forced to pay a premium to restore/repair their cars.. After all, my car is almost 20 years old. 10 years to go before it can be placed on club rego...

I've found "quilton" does the job no finger-through-the-paper problems haha morning all, happy Friday 📧

In other news the missus bought a different brand of tp recently. Do they actually test how strong the paper is or do they just cut down a tree, mush it up and call it good?

Super tidy engine bay. Love it

It's a genuine DJR 320 kit.

Yep mine has already been pre hammered. Here's a tip for making the car quieter, use an fgx sprint cam timing map and it'll be all kinds of quiet.

My first exhaust revision on my turbo terry was a decat and mid muffler remove, so it was just 3inch with the rear muffler. I hated it, only time it was acceptable was on load. annoyed me for cruse especially since being a family car. I fitted a fg turbo manifold and a 4inch xforce dump. I had to cut and reweld the bottom piece of the dump, I feel as it was touching something or pointing the wrong way I wanted. I cant remember now it was many years ago. But it goes into a 5inch cat, then 3.5inch pipe to a hot dog and still the standard 3inch rear as ive been to lazy to make one. but its on my list, but in current form it sounds good on noise and pretty close to stock on cruse.

I put a built trans into the na territory today. Holy sh*t it's a night and day difference!

and the motorbike I had to sell (hence buying myself a 'nice' car) due to personal tragedy. and finally the pos VW boring as hell econobox diesel that's about as exciting as a fridge without an ice maker.

I'm an Atheist haha so you can put the hail-mary's approximately here

swap the plastic connectors around, just push in the sides inside the holes and pull the connector off. Unclip the ear nose clamps, holding the existing hoses on and replace with an L shaped hose by Gates, Part number is 02-0025

Unsure what the coolant ID size is (19mm maybe)? I'd just use copper pipe as it's easily flared and bent but that's me. Pretty sure they sell a pipe to connect them and fits to the old mounting locations but unsure of the name...

what is everyone doing in regard to the coolant lines that go into the exchanger once they bypass it to an oil/air cooler at the front? I could just leave it connected but if the inside of the exchanger degrades im going to be dumping my coolant all over the road lol. https://www.carmodsaustralia.com.au/PWR-PWO0528-XPX-Trans-Oil-Cooler-280-x-255-x-19mm-3/8-Hose-Barb https://www.carmodsaustralia.com.au/Raceworks-RWF-411-08-06BK-AN-Female-to-Barb https://www.carmodsaustralia.com.au/transmission-oil-cooler-adapter-fittings-2pk-ford that's what im planning on using, plus some 3/8" tube of course.

Yeah man, 80/20 is the bare minimum for us too. Hopefully we get fibre over the next 10 years or less.

I have HFC here with FttN NBN. Had 100/40 for ages with a cheap ISP and it was a barely okay sort of service. Upgraded that to a more internet focused service provider more recently to 250/20 and it's a lot better.

I read the replies on the thread early on boys but didn't get a chance to reply until now. With the battery tray, because of the way ANTZ have the tray propped up just by one support in the centre and also because the metal tray can be flexed, the battery can be rocked with pressure forward and back. I worked out the easiest fix is to drill 2 bolt holes into the tray and make a support and drill that into the engine bay metal (small screws). Should work a charm. Just have to get a flat bar of metal and I should be set!

There's a huge list of "pros" like you've listed for the country-living, but a huge list of "cons" as well, same as for living nearer to the city... I'll weigh it all up and spend heaps of money either way haha.

yep, or move out to the middle-of-nowhere and get a MUCH cheaper mortgage haha

You want to have it within an adaptation range so it can adjust the pressures if necessary. There are multiple types of adaptation and subsequently various temp ranges for them. Slipping adaptation starts at 70C, so it would be wise to wait until then before giving it the berries. To make things interesting there is a 3C hysteresis on the trans temp, so maybe wait until 73C lol.

Maybe I should have said "waste of time in a street car in Canberra". Mine turned on once in 6 years I reckon and even then the transmission was well within its safe range. The manual override was a more useful option - I used to flick that on when the trans was warmed up and I was working it hard.

Sure sounds like it.

My tuner just got back to me and turns out I will only need the 5bar tmap and can repurpose the boost sensor input. https://www.independentmotorsports.com.au/5-bar-t-map-sensor-omnipower

I've got something planned, I'll update when it's done.

I had to do mine recently. all the bottom ones were basically hand tight. I think its been about 40, 000 since I installed it. I had normal studs and norlock washers. but I dont think there verry good when the glue melts? anyway might have to buy something for it if it loosens again

I guess it might have to be another stock injector. Well I'm pretty positive it's the injector. I put new plugs in and gapped them to .7 still ran the same, swapped coils with cylinder 1 was still the same. Very noticeable on the graph when reving, holding 2000rpm levels out but some exaust popping, taking my foot off the throttle after holding revs the graph on number 5 goes crazy unless I got a bad plug ? Double checked fuel pressure and it's 4bar with out vacum connected. It's not picking up any codes except p0420 and that's cause my cats been taken out

gotta love an easy fix

I downloaded South Park, the fractured but whole, on the ps5. Apparently pressing the fart button repeatedly annoys the missus.

Hi guys, I'm installing a walbro 460 intank pump and I know I need to drill the return line out to 4.5mm. Is this the right one? Can anyone explain what the center one is for as it's blocked? Thanks,

Hey, probably not easily, unless you had a network log running while you did it. morning all, happy Good Friday (for those that follow that, otherwise just Friday) 📜

I would send noods but I don't think there is enough data on the internet to support the file size required for my magnum dong

This is why you're posting in the Coversions, Transplants and FRANKENSTEINS page haha What you're talking about is a big and ambitious job! That's why I, for one, am so excited to follow your journey. Even if you don't do it, it's really cool to see the fact finding process

awesome! I'm keen to follow your build! If you need a hand with homework, let us know. There's always someone around who's interested in helping out

what does the hot water do and if it’s stops the rough idling then how and what’s causing it I’ve changed coils,plugs,02sensor,I had only put on new keyless pads with keys and did it fords way press rear demister button for three times and when door locks open press each button on each pad so you know they are setup correctly First drive after doing these my car has been idling fine when cold as soon as it’s upto normal driving temperature the car idles very roughly when I put it into neutral it’s okay WHAT IS CAUSING THIS NIGHTMARE OF AN ISSUE SURELY MY CAMSHAFT HASNT GOT THIS LUMPY GRIND IT WOULD HAVE DONE IT PRIOR TO THIS IVE HAD CAR SEVEN YEARS NOW ONLY 112,300klms very good condition

Another pump question. BF xr6t - flash tuned and flowed injectors only (stock pump). After sitting for a couple of hours when starting you need to hold the key on for a few seconds before starting. Strait starting results in pre-ignition or backfire (which blows the PCV hose off). 1: Is this likley to be caused by fuel pressure dissipating when shut down? 2: If yes, are there a few likely causes. I can buy a guage and test but if there are other ways to diagnose the prob with my eyes, or if there is a common fault peeps know about I can save the money. Thanks in advance

for 320rwkw, a GSS340 is plenty for an in-pod pickup pump and provides the pickup abilities for surge-tank setups if you go that way for more power in the future.

You need this

is this part of the fuel tank setup? I was under the impression you needed to drill out the return hole in the fuel pressure regulator itself, or purchase the bolt in GFB one when installing high flow pumps.

no worries

Don't try & clean sensor just replace it with a new quality one (only the frount one not the one under the car) O2 sensors are not designed to last the life of the vehicle veiw them as a long term spark plug. While these engines have suspect coils (replace with genuine only) if it runs good on the road it does not sound spark related, as you accelerate you add more fuel and therefor need more spark to light it. If there's not enough spark at idle there's not going to be any were near enough under acceleration for it to run properly. by all means change the spark plugs (and do a comp test while your there) check or replace coils is a maintenance thing on these engines. You might just have a leaking inlet gasket or the injectors need cleaning but you have to make sure the basics are right