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Hi all, it's been a while.. I couldn't get the VN ready in time for Rockynats, so I put some time in to the old girl and got her mobile again. As I had to pull the IRS to replace the outer diff support bushes, I decided to finally assemble the Try Trac that has been sitting in the shed for the past 4 years. While I was at it, I put a new set of Dana gears, so that I didn't have to cannibalise the centre that was being removed. Having missed all previous Rocky Nats due to work, I decided that I was not going to miss another. I have a great time, met many wonderful people and checked out some really cool rides. I didn't take any pics of the car, but I found some on the Nat page that I have shared below. I have also included a current pic of the bay. It has changed somewhat and looks a lot neater. The car was running really crappy, which is why I haven't really been interested in it. My tuna (Joke) installed the latest firmware update and utilised the new manifold pressure predication vs fuel table, car now runs like factory, no more hunting at idle, or stalling. For the first time in a while, I can honestly say that I really enjoy driving the car again. I have also started to make some carbon parts again, although it has been somewhat of a learning curve. I am currently toying with a new rocker garnish to suit the FG rocker cover (1st attempt failed due to air leak in the bagging, so I laid up a new one in the mould tonight) and will soon start on a modified version of the radiator sight cover. I will also have to find some time to remove the dash, as the dreaded mixer shaft failure has finally eventuated. FML Until next time... 🍺

Righto I did my thing and here's an update. I did a comp test and one of the cylinders was low with others being out of spec too. Turns out the head was leaking like a mofo out of the exhaust valves...so I rebuilt the engine. I used stock turbo pistons, Spool I beam rods, upgraded piston pins, Cometic 3 layer MLS, ARP head studs with OS washers, new hx bearings with 360 thrust, inconel high pressure oil pump spring with adjustable relief, oil pump gears and backing plate, Ross balancer, Plazmaman intake and maybe more I forgot. I got hectic with the valve grinding paste and the head is passable. I relocated my trans cooler under the car and wired in the fan with a relay and a switch. I painted the rocker cover with Black Velvet Cerakote, it was sh*t before and now is a bit less sh*t. Haha I still gotta fit the catch can, I'll do that later I suppose. I've had a successful test drive or 3 today, no leaks etc so happy days. It still runs the same boost, it makes 300awkw on about 14.7psi. This should tide me over until I can afford to rebuilt the actual turbo territory. The only thing I really want to do with it now is to have electronic boost control, the na pcm doesn't have that so I'm in the gutter using a boost tee. Here's a pic, hard to believe I did it all in the span of 1 week, in the driveway, while still having family commitments.

Thought it would be appropriate to thank the people most responsible for the successful completion of this project. * This bloke needs no introduction. Aaron aka JETURBO for all the engine and fabrication work. Words are not enough to express how grateful I am for the time and effort that Aaron put into this car. The result is something to behold. Thanks mate. * Paul @ PE Customs in Brisbane for the paint job which is perfection personified * Mike @ Mike Savage Custom Bonnets at Bargo in NSW. It’s a hybrid design we cooked up that actually works. It’s that heavy I had to get new bonnet struts to hold it up lol.

This thread is about my territory adventures so may as well do a consolidation post here. I bought another territory, 7 seater, cloth interior, non turbo 2009 model zf awd, 360xxxkm, lightning strike same as the turbo one, trans in limp home mode, clunks and bangs galore, busted tailgate, no oil showing on the dipstick, farked lifters, overheating, slightly missing, $1500. I probably paid too much for it but considering I can do all the work it ain't that bad. So far I've chucked a reco tailshaft in it, new rear shocks, new front diff bushes, new front wheel bearings, new front lower ball joints, front sway bar bushes and links, a second hand set of trans solenoids to fix the trans issue, an engine service, a trans service, fuel filter, thermostat, rocker cover gasket kit, external trans cooler, a front mount intercooler, 1500cc injectors, 255 fuel pump, drop in adjustable fuel reg, valve springs, anti pump up lifters, roller rockers, spark plugs, genuine coils, billet wheel gt3576 with flapper mod, stock dump and stock turbo territory exhaust, engine tune obviously, trans tune, a second hand tailgate to replace the trailer hit one, 4 tyres, brake pads all round and I reckon that's about it. No doubt I'll remember something else once I hit post. I've still got the rear sway bar bushes to install and also rear diff bushes. I'll get to that in 3 months when my arm is better. It started out at probably 130awkw as an na beast, probably went up to 145awkw with a tune and now is sitting at around 275awkw with the turbo stuff installed. Anyhow there is that, now people can read about it here instead of it being spread out through the forum.

Valve springs are going in, Plazmaman Pro

I dont think you can call it Na anymore. Its got more fruit than a turbo terry since you've been hard at work

Cheers, this is my cart... add hose, rad zip ties and gulf western atf, filter and gasket and I think im sorted. https://imgur.com/ZB15x18

I've increased the boost on the na+t territory and it makes a bit over 300awkw and 600nm on 15psi. As a result the trans needed an update to the tune, which I did this morning. Once again the shifts are quick and crisp and you wouldn't know it's an na trans in there. I think this is where I'll stop the increase in power, it is a na engine after all. When the time is right I'll do some minor engine work to it so it can handle all the boost, but for now it will do.

THE END

The cam timing is more retarded at idle and cruise by about 10 degrees which makes it quieter.

Yep mine has already been pre hammered. Here's a tip for making the car quieter, use an fgx sprint cam timing map and it'll be all kinds of quiet.

My first exhaust revision on my turbo terry was a decat and mid muffler remove, so it was just 3inch with the rear muffler. I hated it, only time it was acceptable was on load. annoyed me for cruse especially since being a family car. I fitted a fg turbo manifold and a 4inch xforce dump. I had to cut and reweld the bottom piece of the dump, I feel as it was touching something or pointing the wrong way I wanted. I cant remember now it was many years ago. But it goes into a 5inch cat, then 3.5inch pipe to a hot dog and still the standard 3inch rear as ive been to lazy to make one. but its on my list, but in current form it sounds good on noise and pretty close to stock on cruse.

and the motorbike I had to sell (hence buying myself a 'nice' car) due to personal tragedy. and finally the pos VW boring as hell econobox diesel that's about as exciting as a fridge without an ice maker.

Unsure what the coolant ID size is (19mm maybe)? I'd just use copper pipe as it's easily flared and bent but that's me. Pretty sure they sell a pipe to connect them and fits to the old mounting locations but unsure of the name...

Yeah man, 80/20 is the bare minimum for us too. Hopefully we get fibre over the next 10 years or less.

yep, or move out to the middle-of-nowhere and get a MUCH cheaper mortgage haha

Sure sounds like it.

My tuner just got back to me and turns out I will only need the 5bar tmap and can repurpose the boost sensor input. https://www.independentmotorsports.com.au/5-bar-t-map-sensor-omnipower

I had to do mine recently. all the bottom ones were basically hand tight. I think its been about 40, 000 since I installed it. I had normal studs and norlock washers. but I dont think there verry good when the glue melts? anyway might have to buy something for it if it loosens again

gotta love an easy fix

Hey, probably not easily, unless you had a network log running while you did it. morning all, happy Good Friday (for those that follow that, otherwise just Friday) 📜

I would send noods but I don't think there is enough data on the internet to support the file size required for my magnum dong

Hi all First time post here, hopefully this one will be of interest. I was at a clearing auction in Country Vic and spotted 4 XR6 Turbo Crossover Manifolds in one lot. A close look left me in no doubt these were prototypes of some sort, and I ended up buying all 4 quite cheaply. When I picked these up after the auction ended the seller informed me these were indeed prototypes, rescued from a scrap bin by a guy in Ballarat who did a bit of work with Ford including helping out at Bathurst racing a Turbo Falcon in the production class. Here's what I believe to be the first prototype, note no fittings for PCV, BOV etc, different font and also the word "Intercooler" instead of "Intercooled" Also there is an indent in the top of the manifold for what surely must have been a Tickford badge. This is cast in. Here's what I think is the second version, with final font and spelling, but with a grafted in BOV fitting. Still has space for Tickford badge Version 3, more grafted in fittings including BOV, PCV, and a small fitting possibly for a boost gauge? Currently blocked off with pop rivet Final production version, with part number. Tickford badge now gone. I was thinking of bringing down to the Geelong All Ford day in Geelong this April if anyone was interested in having a look up close? I find these interesting but I'm a bit of a car nerd, what do you guys think? Cheers Kev

Hi all, I've had an issue with my car running rich now for month's, I've replaced alot of parts trying to figure out what the cause is with no success. A while back my car started to run super rough and rich, figured it was a vacuum leak somewhere or coils. Turned out it was the lower plenum gasket, replaced and it fixed the idle issue but not the over rich condition. Since I've done the following trying to figure out what the cause is: Purchased new oem coils/plugs Replaced TB gasket, PCV valve, Plenum gasket, New battery, Venum high flow cat/Y piece, New fuel filter, New O2 sensor, New Bosche Map sensor. New O-rings/micron filter on injectors. Just picked up the FORscan tool and the O2 shows as 0.9v on idle, when I rev the car to redline in park it'll head back to a more Stoich reading and idle more smooth for about 5secs before going back to 0.85-.90v I've ordered another VOD 02 sensor in the hopes the previous bosche one was d.o.a but I'm at a loss as to what the issue is?. Thermo? CHT sensor?. There's a other guy on here who had the exact same issue but it seems there's was no conclusion, any help would be greatly appreciated t.I.a.

When I worked at a workshop, we would install a boost reference nipple into the front part of the exhaust to diagnose back pressure issues. If a car is making lots of boost and not much power, this is one of the first things to check.

Nice one man, I've thought about doing this to an na AWD Territory. Cool project

I have a couple of sets of turbo rods I can use, also a bunch of turbo pistons etc. I could just slap my spool I beam rods in it and a set of turbo pistons, that will keep it safe to make all the power that turbo can throw at it. So far the trans is fine, I've given it a pretty decent tune up and it's behaving itself for now. Obviously that will change if I throw much more power at it but again, I have some bits I can chuck in it to make it stronger without costing anything. It would be better to have a spare engine so I can do the work on one, then swap it over in a day so there isn't much down time. @Typhoon you're selling an engine ain't ya?

That actually the main reason I swapped it. The little turbo was making a sh*tload of midrange torque whereas this one has moved it up. The little one actually made 300awkw at only 3500rpm once, the larger one wont do that which will save the rods lol.

Once again it's all keefs fault...I installed the gen2 gtx3582r I had sitting on the shelf this morning.

Whats better than a single turbo? Two of course! I agree, you should do this

I'll take the blame turbo'ing every car that you buy should be mandatory

Indeed, I blame you lol. Car is much better now though, it's actually decent to drive.

Doing well! House is at roof carpentry stage. Should have the frame done by the end of the week, then they will do the roofing and external ceiling stuff. Went for a job interview yesrerday at WesTrac as a MCG (machine control and guidance) Tecnology Technician. Complete shift of career. Kinda came outta nowhere. Long story short, I have more career growth opportunity through this career, and its basically a glorified auto sparky role, which I do heaps of in my spare time. Super interesting role. End up fifo for 3-5 years and then move back to engineering role in the city. They really liked me and were impressed with my auto sparky knowledge without any trade. Same goes for networking knowledge. Missing the skid pig and stuggling to find a replacement 😞 With the new job and more pay towards the end of year, I'm hoping I can move on to my next project. Keep trying to head in a different direction from Ford and barras, but I find myself coming back.... Can only come back in an FPV of FGX 😏

Got it all finished a couple of hours ago, test drive successful and a new rocker cover gasket kit got rid of the spark plug hole leaks. As always when going from stock springs to beefy springs, the difference is night and day. It pulls hard to redline now and with decent springs and anti pump up lifters, there is no valve float whatsover. I'm gonna have to raise the rev limiter by 100rpm or so, cos it tagged it in auto mode on the 1>2 shift. Happy days

Good outcome mate. Exact experience I had going from 10W40 to 20W60. I even found the 15W50 Penrite 10 tenths not quite enough. Do you roll around on the road at 1000hp all the time?

And don't forget a 460 will need upgraded wiring, I'm running a 320lph pump with stock wiring loom and fuel reg, 350 killer wasps, no probs. Will be going 460 in near future as I go for 400+ tune

ZF is a much better gearbox. Most guys end up with a T400 or Powerglide for big power. I guess all I meant was, you'd have to compare pretty closely the value of a built btr vs a ZF

Hey mate yeah I still have the issue have the issue the last thing I did was replace the the fuel pressure regulator and it still does it. I work FiFio so the car is parked up majority of the time these days. Think I'm going to have to bite the bullet and take it to a shop to have them diagnose the issue.

Hey mate I have similar issues and also this exact code on my ba xr6t now Aswell. Mine was open loop faulting. I tracked that to bad oxygen sensor wireing....fixed that. Change oxygen sensor Aswell. But also had TPS... throttle pedal....and 2 other oxygen sensor codes that I couldn't get rid of no matter what I did till I swapped around the ess(?) Relay and came good but the p0172 code I am yet to get rid off and it's using a fair bit of fuel again What I'm about to try is the CHT sensor as it's reading that it's at 1/4 on guage no matter tragic the jumps up a little then down just as quick. ..other thing is I was gonna check vacume leaks again and also fuel pressure return restriction in line as the FPR is fine/new. Don't like using bucket loads of fuel haha

Yeah checked, for codes nothing significant, and have also checked the CHT and it's nominal at 90c. The open loop occurred only after changing to this new O2 sensor. The LTFT are adjusting and after a while, cruising at about 80kph it'll sit. Notice in the last pic the STFT had improved significant also. However the voltage on the 02 sensor still is showing to high voltage when the car is coasting or at idle which is when fuel trims go out the window and the car starts using more fuel again. Hopefully the FPR will get here by the weekend and I'll install it to see how it goes.

Did another log on the way home from work, https://www.instagram.com/p/CTO1Wqah5S1/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link Drove alot better than it has for a while fuel trip still continues to come down, its only when on idle it's having the issue. I heard that the factory fuel rail can rust over years internally and gunk up the fpr, hopefully it'll be that or the return will see this week. Only thing I noticed is the whole time it stayed in the open loop which I'd think is odd as open loop is the ecu not taking reading from the 02 correct?.

Update installed the new o2 sensor. Now it seems to be running better around town went for a drive and got the fuel trip down from 19 to 16. Where it still seems to run rich and cause issue, is idling.

From my understanding long-term is what the car has learnt over time?. Can you explain why and also what value I should be looking for on a stock tune?. Put it this way the cars fuel trip on the dash over time has gone from about 13.1 to as high as 25L per 100. managed to get it down to 19 by driving it like a nanna.

Yeah I got it tuned I have 3 different settings but since the issue, reverted it back to stock map.

take the front bumper off and move the headlight if you're having trouble.

Finally got around to sorting this. Pulled the fuel module out, as last time I'd had to reuse some fuel hose and wanted to have both lines using the proper flexi stuff. Drilled out the fuel return thing in the bottom of the cradle to 4mm But I also noticed that the return port in the cradle was blocked. Not sure if there is meant to be something there or not, but either way it wasn't passing any fluid. So drilled that out too. Before and after pics below. I now have positive fuel trims (remembering that I fudged my low slopes to tune around the issue temporarily) so think I have resolved the fuel pressure issue. I'll do a few km to make sure the trims continue like that, then flash the correct low slopes back on.

Unfortunately this issue continues to hang around, even though at times it looks a bit better. I built a tune that basically got rid of any lambda corrections, kept the car in open loop and targeted a flat 0.95 everywhere so I could see easily what was going on. Car could happily hold commanded lambda with a bit of load, but was very rich at idle. Made me suspicious of fuel pressure and also I think eliminated things like an erratic O2 sensor. Had some rose joints replaced in the rear yeaterday so got them to test my fuel pressure while they had it. Had been tested before (reported back as "ok") so asked for the actual value. Good news is that it was 65psi at idle - I think I've found the cause of my negative fuel trims. Reckon step 1 is to disconnect the return line under the car and point it at the mower petrol tin. If the fuel trims settle down while idling, I know I've got an issue somewhere between there and the tank. Hard lines all look good so reckon checking the pump module would come after that.

You need this

Theorectly it should make no difference but if there is a problem with earthing (remember we are dealing with less than 1 volt) it can't hurt

Don't try & clean sensor just replace it with a new quality one (only the frount one not the one under the car) O2 sensors are not designed to last the life of the vehicle veiw them as a long term spark plug. While these engines have suspect coils (replace with genuine only) if it runs good on the road it does not sound spark related, as you accelerate you add more fuel and therefor need more spark to light it. If there's not enough spark at idle there's not going to be any were near enough under acceleration for it to run properly. by all means change the spark plugs (and do a comp test while your there) check or replace coils is a maintenance thing on these engines. You might just have a leaking inlet gasket or the injectors need cleaning but you have to make sure the basics are right