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  1. This thread is about my territory adventures so may as well do a consolidation post here. I bought another territory, 7 seater, cloth interior, non turbo 2009 model zf awd, 360xxxkm, lightning strike same as the turbo one, trans in limp home mode, clunks and bangs galore, busted tailgate, no oil showing on the dipstick, farked lifters, overheating, slightly missing, $1500. I probably paid too much for it but considering I can do all the work it ain't that bad. So far I've chucked a reco tailshaft in it, new rear shocks, new front diff bushes, new front wheel bearings, new front lower ball joints, front sway bar bushes and links, a second hand set of trans solenoids to fix the trans issue, an engine service, a trans service, fuel filter, thermostat, rocker cover gasket kit, external trans cooler, a front mount intercooler, 1500cc injectors, 255 fuel pump, drop in adjustable fuel reg, valve springs, anti pump up lifters, roller rockers, spark plugs, genuine coils, billet wheel gt3576 with flapper mod, stock dump and stock turbo territory exhaust, engine tune obviously, trans tune, a second hand tailgate to replace the trailer hit one, 4 tyres, brake pads all round and I reckon that's about it. No doubt I'll remember something else once I hit post. I've still got the rear sway bar bushes to install and also rear diff bushes. I'll get to that in 3 months when my arm is better. It started out at probably 130awkw as an na beast, probably went up to 145awkw with a tune and now is sitting at around 275awkw with the turbo stuff installed. Anyhow there is that, now people can read about it here instead of it being spread out through the forum.
    3 points
  2. Valve springs are going in, Plazmaman Pro
    3 points
  3. Thought it would be appropriate to thank the people most responsible for the successful completion of this project. * This bloke needs no introduction. Aaron aka JETURBO for all the engine and fabrication work. Words are not enough to express how grateful I am for the time and effort that Aaron put into this car. The result is something to behold. Thanks mate. * Paul @ PE Customs in Brisbane for the paint job which is perfection personified * Mike @ Mike Savage Custom Bonnets at Bargo in NSW. It’s a hybrid design we cooked up that actually works. It’s that heavy I had to get new bonnet struts to hold it up lol.
    2 points
  4. Bought it. Well, my wife did. I was still riding the porcelain bus.
    2 points
  5. morning all, happy Thursday 💡 happy to have got the gains... after winning the Grand Final by 1 solitary run
    2 points
  6. Quick update....the car still ran a little rough after the new battery...especially idle when cold, but has been like that for quite a while. It also had a very slight hesitation too. On the weekend, I changed both cam senors (Genuine), no burnt wiring on the exhaust side...but wrapped in shielding anyway. I also changed the MAP sensor(Genuine), and removed all injectors ( DEKA's) and gave them a good clean using the poor man method, battery and throttle body cleaner. I re-flashed the tune, started it up, and idled perfectly. Taken it for a few good drives, and I cannot believe how smooth it is. Hasn't been this smooth since I bought it. Feels like driving a new car, and all my power is back too. Spins the wheels at 80ks in third.....hasn't done that for a long long time. It's no longer running rich either. The injectors were pretty dirty with some slight carbon buildup. I noticed the drastic difference in the spray pattern as I cleaned them. Kinda reminded me of a dirty shower head with limescale. Anyway...car is running great.....finally.
    2 points
  7. Obviously, that is the first thing I tried. With modern elbows you can't just guess what the problem is, you have to plug in the scanner to see what codes they have.
    2 points
  8. The lad has his 12th birthday today and he wants steak. Haha I taught him well
    1 point
  9. Hi all First time post here, hopefully this one will be of interest. I was at a clearing auction in Country Vic and spotted 4 XR6 Turbo Crossover Manifolds in one lot. A close look left me in no doubt these were prototypes of some sort, and I ended up buying all 4 quite cheaply. When I picked these up after the auction ended the seller informed me these were indeed prototypes, rescued from a scrap bin by a guy in Ballarat who did a bit of work with Ford including helping out at Bathurst racing a Turbo Falcon in the production class. Here's what I believe to be the first prototype, note no fittings for PCV, BOV etc, different font and also the word "Intercooler" instead of "Intercooled" Also there is an indent in the top of the manifold for what surely must have been a Tickford badge. This is cast in. Here's what I think is the second version, with final font and spelling, but with a grafted in BOV fitting. Still has space for Tickford badge Version 3, more grafted in fittings including BOV, PCV, and a small fitting possibly for a boost gauge? Currently blocked off with pop rivet Final production version, with part number. Tickford badge now gone. I was thinking of bringing down to the Geelong All Ford day in Geelong this April if anyone was interested in having a look up close? I find these interesting but I'm a bit of a car nerd, what do you guys think? Cheers Kev
    1 point
  10. Hey mate, I ended up taking it in to have it professionally looked over, they took two days to figure out the issue was, it wanst making any power 200rwkw so the tuner took off the back half and she picked up 111rwkw, ultimately was a blocked muffler. I had a few other things done and got the car back with 320rwkw.
    1 point
  11. Nice one man, I've thought about doing this to an na AWD Territory. Cool project
    1 point
  12. I have a couple of sets of turbo rods I can use, also a bunch of turbo pistons etc. I could just slap my spool I beam rods in it and a set of turbo pistons, that will keep it safe to make all the power that turbo can throw at it. So far the trans is fine, I've given it a pretty decent tune up and it's behaving itself for now. Obviously that will change if I throw much more power at it but again, I have some bits I can chuck in it to make it stronger without costing anything. It would be better to have a spare engine so I can do the work on one, then swap it over in a day so there isn't much down time. @Typhoon you're selling an engine ain't ya?
    1 point
  13. That actually the main reason I swapped it. The little turbo was making a sh*tload of midrange torque whereas this one has moved it up. The little one actually made 300awkw at only 3500rpm once, the larger one wont do that which will save the rods lol.
    1 point
  14. Whats better than a single turbo? Two of course! I agree, you should do this
    1 point
  15. Indeed, I blame you lol. Car is much better now though, it's actually decent to drive.
    1 point
  16. Doing well! House is at roof carpentry stage. Should have the frame done by the end of the week, then they will do the roofing and external ceiling stuff. Went for a job interview yesrerday at WesTrac as a MCG (machine control and guidance) Tecnology Technician. Complete shift of career. Kinda came outta nowhere. Long story short, I have more career growth opportunity through this career, and its basically a glorified auto sparky role, which I do heaps of in my spare time. Super interesting role. End up fifo for 3-5 years and then move back to engineering role in the city. They really liked me and were impressed with my auto sparky knowledge without any trade. Same goes for networking knowledge. Missing the skid pig and stuggling to find a replacement 😞 With the new job and more pay towards the end of year, I'm hoping I can move on to my next project. Keep trying to head in a different direction from Ford and barras, but I find myself coming back.... Can only come back in an FPV of FGX 😏
    1 point
  17. Good outcome mate. Exact experience I had going from 10W40 to 20W60. I even found the 15W50 Penrite 10 tenths not quite enough. Do you roll around on the road at 1000hp all the time?
    1 point
  18. yeah, I'm not saying it's likely to happen, but it might, so budget for it then you won't be (as) disappointed if it happens.
    1 point
  19. If the motor is healthy and you are strapped for a budget, you should just go with the mods you have listed. Transmission rebuild again I'm not sure. Talk to your workshop and see if they are pointing you in the right direction or just wanting some extra cash. If you had more money, I'd get an FG XR6 turbo motor and drop that in or build a motor to much greater strength with aftermarket internals. Beauty of the barra motor is the bottom end is the same for all the series. I think the cylinder head changed designs slightly but someone can confirm. Main changes between these motors were pistons, camshafts and stronger rods from BF xr6 turbo onwards.
    1 point
  20. well, I hope you enjoy it as much if not more than the FG, I guess... would you bring it on a snowies cruise?
    1 point
  21. That's one way of saying you're gonna buy a treadly
    1 point
  22. ready for some gains this evening, after a (hopefully) grand final win in my indoor cricket team tonight
    1 point
  23. It's a good idea man. Not many people run them though. Falcons aren't meant to be tracked hard, especially not at 700kw. I was looking at a Setrab oil cooler, but haven't got around to it
    1 point
  24. I convinced a mate to buy a na 6 speed teritory on the weekend, now ive convinced him to turbo it. Its more fun doing conversions when other people are paying. hahaha.
    1 point
  25. Geez that blows big time puff... Yep those legs are guna get it alright
    1 point
  26. Got x-ray and ultrasound today, there's a bone spur under the tendon which is causing the pain and my nerve is jumping across the joint when I extend my arm. I've got a follow up with my GP tomorrow but it appears I'll need surgery to scrape the bone. Yay I suppose this year will be dedicated to squats and deadlifts.
    1 point
  27. Yeah it's dead easy to make the car idle higher. Only thing is it will want to push the car along so you'd be on the brakes a lot more often. Worth a try though.
    1 point
  28. Makes sense though....even though it had enough power to start the engine, the sensors would have all been out of their voltage range, triggering limp mode. No wonder it threw 20 codes for just about everything. These are the codes that it threw...the complete list. PO21 Intake cam PO22 Cam not in position to crank PO124 TPS or PPS error PO172 System to rich PO221 Throttle Position Sensor PO223 Voltage output PPS or TPS to high PO224 PPS Sensor switch B PO351 Cylinder 1 Coil fault PO356 Ignition Coil F Circuit Malfunction PO1270 RPM Or Speed out of calibrated range PO2100 Throttle Actuator A Control Motor Circuit Out Of Range PO2105 Throttle Actuator Control System PO2110 Major Failure In Throttle Actuator PO2138 Throttle Position Sensor Or PPS Voltage Correlation Problem PO2139 TPS Or PPS Switch D And F Voltage Correlation Problem. I did have lots of starting issues and big voltage drops starting the car before this all happened.
    1 point
  29. Confirmed.....Bad Battery. Had it tested and it was stuffed....wouldn't even hold load. They were surprised the car even ran at all. Took the car for a run with the new battery and the car runs much better. Also noticed that it's no longer running rich like it was before. It also had a slight stutter/hesitation before, that's now gone as well. Did a proper smoke test a few weeks ago thinking it was and intake gasket or similar. Anyway...all good.
    1 point
  30. Also the intercooler was 50C when I left the driveway and dropped to 40C at the end of the run. It's currently 30C and sunny here. Previously the top mount would start at 50C and finish at 100C.
    1 point
  31. Ok so I've gone to have a look and it's not as straightforward as I first thought. Basically the ignition timing and the idle airflow are both in closed loop control at idle. That means that if you change them to an incorrect value they will self correct in just a couple of seconds. I would need to look further into the tune file and see if there is a way of having either the ignition timing or the airflow not be controlled at idle. This isn't a common thing to be looking for, so I would have to sit down and browse through a few hundred, or possibly a couple of thousand parameters to find a likely candidate, then I would need to flash my car etc etc. While it doesn't cost me anything to do this, it does take a lot of time. This certainly isn't a request you would take to a workshop, as you could easily run up a few hours, or a whole day sorting it out. I'll have a look through the tune when I've got some quiet time during the week, I wouldn't hold my breath for an outcome though.
    1 point
  32. Hi all. I’ve owned my 04 (March) manual stock baxr6t for over 10 years. I’ve been a member on this forum for about the same amount of time. It’s a great resource. I have had problems over this time but have resisted asking for help as I didn’t want to waste peoples time with stupid questions. But the time has come. Here’s a bit of back ground. probably the worst of the problems I’ve had is intermittent missing under load. It’s been an issue for years. I’ve done all the usual things a few times ….Coils, plugs, throttle body, check for vacuum leaks, engine diagnosis… I have generally used a very well known and respected tuning shop in Sydney for 7+ years now. In the last 3 years I have spent $18000 on assorted things to maintain it and try to ultimately sort out this intermittent missing. 16 months ago a had a clutch put in it and they told me to put in a twin plate clutch. I went ahead with it. Rear main seal, flywheel machined, spigot bearing replaced, clutch fluid flush, stud forch, nut-copper crush, racing bolts and spring washers, coolant temp head sensor. Also plugs, turbo t3 gasket, wastegate actuator, sump plug washer. LHS & RHS engine mounts engine insulator. Dump pipe repair drill and tap (helicoil), hot side intercooler piping kit, tail shaft center bearing, exhaust manifold gasket. When I picked up the car I was informed my car had been overboosting to 16 psi and breaking down. Evidence of vehicle running lean. Wastegate diaphragm was found to be damaged and pierced. Unable to control boost. They were unable to determine if any damage had been done to the engine due to this. So they gave no warranty because if this. (As a side note at this point I should mention I had to REPLACE the clutch 3 weeks ago as it was slipping and worn out!) 12 months ago I had 4 tyres and alignment, motor and tranny degreased, wipers, headlight globe, coolant turbo pipe, handbrake adjustment. Also rocker cover, spark plug recess, vct valve cover gaskets replaced. When I picked up the car I was informed battery might need replacing, idler pulley was noisy and will need replacing in the near future, one rocker cover bolt was “worn” and was tightened as best as possible and front cam connectors clips broken on harness and re-secured as best as possible. 9 months ago I had a coolant o ring replaced and coolant flush, motor and tranny degreased, valve cover gasket kit, timing cover gasket set, ribbed pulley replaced, flat pulley replaced, a hose a sump plug washer and a tensioner belt replaced. I also replaced radiator and hose. When I picked up the car I was told clips broken on ignition coil and vct plugs, also connector to crank sensor not clipping on. They secured all clips as best as possible. 5 months ago I had coils and plugs done again and an engine diagnosis. I returned the car 2 days later as it was running terribly. Missing badly and breaking down under load. They said it’s the engine wiring. I need a new loom and the ecu probably needs replacing! My patience and pocket was empty and I drove the car for a couple of months with a terrible miss and stutter, it constantly died at standstill and was rough as it’s ever been. Then as I mentioned before my clutch died and I got another mechanic to put in a standard one. He told me it was very worn! After 12 months?!!! I rang the tuning shop and they told me I should have bought in to THEM, they said it could have been ANYTHING! I informed them that the clutch mechanic said it was worn. And was resistant about bringing it to them as it akways costs me thousands of dollars ever time the look at it and I didn’t have a great deal of money. My car is currently at a auto electrician. It has 2 error codes reading it’s timing running advanced, and a throttle body code. He discovered the cam sensor exhaust side was broken and the wiring burned in the harness as wiring was bridged together by hose clamp on water pipe. Wiring behind engine block burnt in harness, cam sensor faulty under testing. He removed wiring harness from vehicle cam sensors to engine ecu and repaired wiring harness with new plugs on cam sensors. He said upon further inspection the water pipe that caused damage near the cam sensor was moving freely by hand and noted it was not secured to inlet manifold by bolt. He then cleaned , reprogrammed and aligned throttle body. I picked up the car and on the way home it started surging like you wouldn’t believe. It’s a bucking bull. It seems ok under load but when backing off and maintaining speed it is tragic beyond belief. The idle is fine and nothing is showing on the rpm display when it’s jerking like a *#€¥#!. I’m a patient tradesman of over 35 years myself, but I am really at the end of my tether. I have spent now over $20000 and my car is still f@$*#!. I’d be interested if anyone has had similar issues or advice on these matters. Your input would be very greatly appreciated.
    1 point
  33. I haven't forgotten again lol but I've been tied up most of the day and now it's dinner time and kids etc. Haha I will go out there and make some changes tomorrow morning and update then.
    1 point
  34. Here's a halfway through the job pic
    1 point
  35. I haven't tried it yet, I forgot, I'll get onto it tomorrow.
    1 point
  36. They put a vacuum canister in for my stage 5 crow cams...did the job and a very simple fix. Before that when the idle was low, pulling up to a car Infront of me was dangerous, braking suffered under the right conditions.
    1 point
  37. Hey mate I have similar issues and also this exact code on my ba xr6t now Aswell. Mine was open loop faulting. I tracked that to bad oxygen sensor wireing....fixed that. Change oxygen sensor Aswell. But also had TPS... throttle pedal....and 2 other oxygen sensor codes that I couldn't get rid of no matter what I did till I swapped around the ess(?) Relay and came good but the p0172 code I am yet to get rid off and it's using a fair bit of fuel again What I'm about to try is the CHT sensor as it's reading that it's at 1/4 on guage no matter tragic the jumps up a little then down just as quick. ..other thing is I was gonna check vacume leaks again and also fuel pressure return restriction in line as the FPR is fine/new. Don't like using bucket loads of fuel haha
    1 point
  38. Did another log on the way home from work, https://www.instagram.com/p/CTO1Wqah5S1/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link Drove alot better than it has for a while fuel trip still continues to come down, its only when on idle it's having the issue. I heard that the factory fuel rail can rust over years internally and gunk up the fpr, hopefully it'll be that or the return will see this week. Only thing I noticed is the whole time it stayed in the open loop which I'd think is odd as open loop is the ecu not taking reading from the 02 correct?.
    1 point
  39. No I mean stock as in base boost etc accounting for the injectors. Just grabbed a FPR will swap it out in the coming days. Did a log on the way to work, the 02 was hunting all over the place unless I take my foot off throttle and then it sit about .078 Long fuel trims hunted for a while and then sat at 0%. And the short trims were all over the place and then would sit at -18.79% and go up when more throttle was applied. Here's a screen shot of the log from Forscan last night. https://www.instagram.com/p/CTNSJhvhbTF/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet
    1 point
  40. Update installed the new o2 sensor. Now it seems to be running better around town went for a drive and got the fuel trip down from 19 to 16. Where it still seems to run rich and cause issue, is idling.
    1 point
  41. From my understanding long-term is what the car has learnt over time?. Can you explain why and also what value I should be looking for on a stock tune?. Put it this way the cars fuel trip on the dash over time has gone from about 13.1 to as high as 25L per 100. managed to get it down to 19 by driving it like a nanna.
    1 point
  42. Any update to this, I've got a MKII 04 XR6T and have been dealing with the same issue, and similarly replaced alot of the same parts with no success. Just purchased Forscan OBD and from what I could see no significant faults that would cause this issue. Just purchased another o2 sensor in the hopes that the previous one I installed might have been d.o.a any help would be great! T.I.a.
    1 point
  43. Finally got around to sorting this. Pulled the fuel module out, as last time I'd had to reuse some fuel hose and wanted to have both lines using the proper flexi stuff. Drilled out the fuel return thing in the bottom of the cradle to 4mm But I also noticed that the return port in the cradle was blocked. Not sure if there is meant to be something there or not, but either way it wasn't passing any fluid. So drilled that out too. Before and after pics below. I now have positive fuel trims (remembering that I fudged my low slopes to tune around the issue temporarily) so think I have resolved the fuel pressure issue. I'll do a few km to make sure the trims continue like that, then flash the correct low slopes back on.
    1 point
  44. Unfortunately this issue continues to hang around, even though at times it looks a bit better. I built a tune that basically got rid of any lambda corrections, kept the car in open loop and targeted a flat 0.95 everywhere so I could see easily what was going on. Car could happily hold commanded lambda with a bit of load, but was very rich at idle. Made me suspicious of fuel pressure and also I think eliminated things like an erratic O2 sensor. Had some rose joints replaced in the rear yeaterday so got them to test my fuel pressure while they had it. Had been tested before (reported back as "ok") so asked for the actual value. Good news is that it was 65psi at idle - I think I've found the cause of my negative fuel trims. Reckon step 1 is to disconnect the return line under the car and point it at the mower petrol tin. If the fuel trims settle down while idling, I know I've got an issue somewhere between there and the tank. Hard lines all look good so reckon checking the pump module would come after that.
    1 point
  45. Theorectly it should make no difference but if there is a problem with earthing (remember we are dealing with less than 1 volt) it can't hurt
    1 point
  46. Thanks 4321, I'll check it out over the weekend! Why would running an earth from battery to engine change anything? Is there a known farthing issue with these cats? Cheers again for the help!
    1 point
  47. Also talk to Paul at Elite Automotive . Located at Archerfield. My tuner of choice in Brisbane area. I've tried 7 tuners in 3 states over the past decade and these guys are as better than most
    1 point
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