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  1. Bought it. Well, my wife did. I was still riding the porcelain bus.
    2 points
  2. morning all, happy Thursday 💡 happy to have got the gains... after winning the Grand Final by 1 solitary run
    2 points
  3. Quick update....the car still ran a little rough after the new battery...especially idle when cold, but has been like that for quite a while. It also had a very slight hesitation too. On the weekend, I changed both cam senors (Genuine), no burnt wiring on the exhaust side...but wrapped in shielding anyway. I also changed the MAP sensor(Genuine), and removed all injectors ( DEKA's) and gave them a good clean using the poor man method, battery and throttle body cleaner. I re-flashed the tune, started it up, and idled perfectly. Taken it for a few good drives, and I cannot believe how smooth it is. Hasn't been this smooth since I bought it. Feels like driving a new car, and all my power is back too. Spins the wheels at 80ks in third.....hasn't done that for a long long time. It's no longer running rich either. The injectors were pretty dirty with some slight carbon buildup. I noticed the drastic difference in the spray pattern as I cleaned them. Kinda reminded me of a dirty shower head with limescale. Anyway...car is running great.....finally.
    2 points
  4. Obviously, that is the first thing I tried. With modern elbows you can't just guess what the problem is, you have to plug in the scanner to see what codes they have.
    2 points
  5. I thought "There may also already be a product specifically for this application somewhere?" and found these https://aeroflowperformance.com/brake/brake-accessories/vacuum-pumps Then I found this for $147 BRAKE BOOSTER VACUUM PUMP FITS Expensive Daewoo Late model camira VE VF V6 V8 HOTROD GM 92227002
    2 points
  6. You might have to look at Force Performance in Toowoomba man. When I was in Brisbane, East Coast Customs did a lot of work on my car, and they deal with barras a lot. Not sure if they have a ZF transmission specialist though.
    2 points
  7. Good outcome mate. Exact experience I had going from 10W40 to 20W60. I even found the 15W50 Penrite 10 tenths not quite enough. Do you roll around on the road at 1000hp all the time?
    1 point
  8. yeah, I'm not saying it's likely to happen, but it might, so budget for it then you won't be (as) disappointed if it happens.
    1 point
  9. If the motor is healthy and you are strapped for a budget, you should just go with the mods you have listed. Transmission rebuild again I'm not sure. Talk to your workshop and see if they are pointing you in the right direction or just wanting some extra cash. If you had more money, I'd get an FG XR6 turbo motor and drop that in or build a motor to much greater strength with aftermarket internals. Beauty of the barra motor is the bottom end is the same for all the series. I think the cylinder head changed designs slightly but someone can confirm. Main changes between these motors were pistons, camshafts and stronger rods from BF xr6 turbo onwards.
    1 point
  10. well, I hope you enjoy it as much if not more than the FG, I guess... would you bring it on a snowies cruise?
    1 point
  11. That's one way of saying you're gonna buy a treadly
    1 point
  12. Good job Uncle Bob Yay Thursday
    1 point
  13. ready for some gains this evening, after a (hopefully) grand final win in my indoor cricket team tonight
    1 point
  14. For anyone that wants the Dark Argents Paint Code...for their bumber inserts on BF Typhoons or BF aggressor....the code is below...I had mine colour matched...and it's exact....😁 E2 2911 1000ml Mix E74 - 530.7 E10 - 278.7 E48 - 69.8 E36 - 53.8 E59 - 43.6 E61 - 18.3 E25 - 10.2 Take this code to Inspirations Paint, they'll mix it for you. Cheers.
    1 point
  15. yeah, it's a been a good day of sport watching and relaxing in the heat... going to the beach tomorrow because why not
    1 point
  16. I've got the Castrol Edge 20w60 in mine at the moment. It boosted my idle oil pressure on idle to high 20s. The Penrite stuff is probably good to go.
    1 point
  17. I convinced a mate to buy a na 6 speed teritory on the weekend, now ive convinced him to turbo it. Its more fun doing conversions when other people are paying. hahaha.
    1 point
  18. 1 point
  19. Geez that blows big time puff... Yep those legs are guna get it alright
    1 point
  20. Got x-ray and ultrasound today, there's a bone spur under the tendon which is causing the pain and my nerve is jumping across the joint when I extend my arm. I've got a follow up with my GP tomorrow but it appears I'll need surgery to scrape the bone. Yay I suppose this year will be dedicated to squats and deadlifts.
    1 point
  21. Yeah it's dead easy to make the car idle higher. Only thing is it will want to push the car along so you'd be on the brakes a lot more often. Worth a try though.
    1 point
  22. no wonder why you're hungover I don't miss hangovers at all since I stopped drinking alcohol completely ~2016.
    1 point
  23. Makes sense though....even though it had enough power to start the engine, the sensors would have all been out of their voltage range, triggering limp mode. No wonder it threw 20 codes for just about everything. These are the codes that it threw...the complete list. PO21 Intake cam PO22 Cam not in position to crank PO124 TPS or PPS error PO172 System to rich PO221 Throttle Position Sensor PO223 Voltage output PPS or TPS to high PO224 PPS Sensor switch B PO351 Cylinder 1 Coil fault PO356 Ignition Coil F Circuit Malfunction PO1270 RPM Or Speed out of calibrated range PO2100 Throttle Actuator A Control Motor Circuit Out Of Range PO2105 Throttle Actuator Control System PO2110 Major Failure In Throttle Actuator PO2138 Throttle Position Sensor Or PPS Voltage Correlation Problem PO2139 TPS Or PPS Switch D And F Voltage Correlation Problem. I did have lots of starting issues and big voltage drops starting the car before this all happened.
    1 point
  24. Confirmed.....Bad Battery. Had it tested and it was stuffed....wouldn't even hold load. They were surprised the car even ran at all. Took the car for a run with the new battery and the car runs much better. Also noticed that it's no longer running rich like it was before. It also had a slight stutter/hesitation before, that's now gone as well. Did a proper smoke test a few weeks ago thinking it was and intake gasket or similar. Anyway...all good.
    1 point
  25. Also the intercooler was 50C when I left the driveway and dropped to 40C at the end of the run. It's currently 30C and sunny here. Previously the top mount would start at 50C and finish at 100C.
    1 point
  26. Ok so I've gone to have a look and it's not as straightforward as I first thought. Basically the ignition timing and the idle airflow are both in closed loop control at idle. That means that if you change them to an incorrect value they will self correct in just a couple of seconds. I would need to look further into the tune file and see if there is a way of having either the ignition timing or the airflow not be controlled at idle. This isn't a common thing to be looking for, so I would have to sit down and browse through a few hundred, or possibly a couple of thousand parameters to find a likely candidate, then I would need to flash my car etc etc. While it doesn't cost me anything to do this, it does take a lot of time. This certainly isn't a request you would take to a workshop, as you could easily run up a few hours, or a whole day sorting it out. I'll have a look through the tune when I've got some quiet time during the week, I wouldn't hold my breath for an outcome though.
    1 point
  27. Hi all. I’ve owned my 04 (March) manual stock baxr6t for over 10 years. I’ve been a member on this forum for about the same amount of time. It’s a great resource. I have had problems over this time but have resisted asking for help as I didn’t want to waste peoples time with stupid questions. But the time has come. Here’s a bit of back ground. probably the worst of the problems I’ve had is intermittent missing under load. It’s been an issue for years. I’ve done all the usual things a few times ….Coils, plugs, throttle body, check for vacuum leaks, engine diagnosis… I have generally used a very well known and respected tuning shop in Sydney for 7+ years now. In the last 3 years I have spent $18000 on assorted things to maintain it and try to ultimately sort out this intermittent missing. 16 months ago a had a clutch put in it and they told me to put in a twin plate clutch. I went ahead with it. Rear main seal, flywheel machined, spigot bearing replaced, clutch fluid flush, stud forch, nut-copper crush, racing bolts and spring washers, coolant temp head sensor. Also plugs, turbo t3 gasket, wastegate actuator, sump plug washer. LHS & RHS engine mounts engine insulator. Dump pipe repair drill and tap (helicoil), hot side intercooler piping kit, tail shaft center bearing, exhaust manifold gasket. When I picked up the car I was informed my car had been overboosting to 16 psi and breaking down. Evidence of vehicle running lean. Wastegate diaphragm was found to be damaged and pierced. Unable to control boost. They were unable to determine if any damage had been done to the engine due to this. So they gave no warranty because if this. (As a side note at this point I should mention I had to REPLACE the clutch 3 weeks ago as it was slipping and worn out!) 12 months ago I had 4 tyres and alignment, motor and tranny degreased, wipers, headlight globe, coolant turbo pipe, handbrake adjustment. Also rocker cover, spark plug recess, vct valve cover gaskets replaced. When I picked up the car I was informed battery might need replacing, idler pulley was noisy and will need replacing in the near future, one rocker cover bolt was “worn” and was tightened as best as possible and front cam connectors clips broken on harness and re-secured as best as possible. 9 months ago I had a coolant o ring replaced and coolant flush, motor and tranny degreased, valve cover gasket kit, timing cover gasket set, ribbed pulley replaced, flat pulley replaced, a hose a sump plug washer and a tensioner belt replaced. I also replaced radiator and hose. When I picked up the car I was told clips broken on ignition coil and vct plugs, also connector to crank sensor not clipping on. They secured all clips as best as possible. 5 months ago I had coils and plugs done again and an engine diagnosis. I returned the car 2 days later as it was running terribly. Missing badly and breaking down under load. They said it’s the engine wiring. I need a new loom and the ecu probably needs replacing! My patience and pocket was empty and I drove the car for a couple of months with a terrible miss and stutter, it constantly died at standstill and was rough as it’s ever been. Then as I mentioned before my clutch died and I got another mechanic to put in a standard one. He told me it was very worn! After 12 months?!!! I rang the tuning shop and they told me I should have bought in to THEM, they said it could have been ANYTHING! I informed them that the clutch mechanic said it was worn. And was resistant about bringing it to them as it akways costs me thousands of dollars ever time the look at it and I didn’t have a great deal of money. My car is currently at a auto electrician. It has 2 error codes reading it’s timing running advanced, and a throttle body code. He discovered the cam sensor exhaust side was broken and the wiring burned in the harness as wiring was bridged together by hose clamp on water pipe. Wiring behind engine block burnt in harness, cam sensor faulty under testing. He removed wiring harness from vehicle cam sensors to engine ecu and repaired wiring harness with new plugs on cam sensors. He said upon further inspection the water pipe that caused damage near the cam sensor was moving freely by hand and noted it was not secured to inlet manifold by bolt. He then cleaned , reprogrammed and aligned throttle body. I picked up the car and on the way home it started surging like you wouldn’t believe. It’s a bucking bull. It seems ok under load but when backing off and maintaining speed it is tragic beyond belief. The idle is fine and nothing is showing on the rpm display when it’s jerking like a *#€¥#!. I’m a patient tradesman of over 35 years myself, but I am really at the end of my tether. I have spent now over $20000 and my car is still f@$*#!. I’d be interested if anyone has had similar issues or advice on these matters. Your input would be very greatly appreciated.
    1 point
  28. Fitting the actual intercooler itself is the same as a Falcon. There is some trimming of the inner crash bar, bending of the AC line, I used a rivnut gun to insert some threads for the top mounts and tec screwed some mounts into the lower rad support. I suppose I could rivnut the lower ones too but it was too hot and I cbf lol. FG upper piping fits to the hot side of the intercooler with an extra silicone and 90 degree bend while BA/BF piping fits on the cold side, with a slight change for the lower part of the piping as the terry cooler is flipped. I used the Raceport BOV as well, it needed a vacuum/boost source that I stole from the no longer used IMRC solenoid. It took me about 4 hours to remove the intercooler from the other car, find all the various bits of pipe and silicone, weld up a hole in one of the pipes, temporarily relocate the trans cooler and fark around removing the stock stuff and fitting it all to the car. I went for another drive and it has definitely made an improvement.
    1 point
  29. Here's a halfway through the job pic
    1 point
  30. I'd be the same if I had all of the equipment and space and time to do it
    1 point
  31. Not today but last night, I changed the torque converter lockup schedule on my na+t territory. There's a you beaut OSS tool in the PCMTec software, you chuck in your wheel size, gear ratios and diff ratio, of which the last two can be plucked from the tune. With that you can decide when you want the converter to lock up. I went through and made gears 1 thru 4 stay unlocked until 4000rpm, I left 5th and 6th alone for cruise economy. Now the converter flashes up a little bit quicker, it comes on boost a bit quicker, gear changes are smoother and a kick down has it hauling ass immediately, although it kinda already was like that. 4000rpm is about 140kph in 4th, so a normal kickdown from 6th to 4th to overtake means it's on boost straight away and has a bit more power due to it being slightly higher in the rev range from the converter slip. I am still very tempted to install my built trans with its 3200rpm stall speed, just gonna wait until I can be farked.
    1 point
  32. I had a ham sammich with bbq sauce for lube, a nectarine, 2 plums and a bunch of grapes. Yay Wednesday
    1 point
  33. Not being facetious but you can just press the pedal harder, I did that with mine all the time. I also had a split booster in my other car and the pedal was like a rock in that. I'd just press the fark out of it and it worked fine. Not so much for the missus though lol. Thinking outside the box here, you could raise your idle speed a couple hundred rpm, might be enough to make a difference you can live with.
    1 point
  34. They put a vacuum canister in for my stage 5 crow cams...did the job and a very simple fix. Before that when the idle was low, pulling up to a car Infront of me was dangerous, braking suffered under the right conditions.
    1 point
  35. Singing is a surprisingly uplifting thing to do
    1 point
  36. Any modifications? other than the K&N of course
    1 point
  37. My guitar playing has suffered, I rarely play now and can't remember 99% if the stuff I wrote over the years. I can still play alright though, just not nearly as good lol. I still keep up with singing practice, I doubt I'll ever stop with that.
    1 point
  38. As I'm sitting here on the throne it just occurred to me... Yay Saturday
    1 point
  39. That's what happens with big cams. The brake booster will store vacuum on decel and a little bit at idle, you can drive around it like this. I never bothered with trying to fix it, I just press the pedal harder, you get used to it. I'm sure you could fit a vacuum pump and it would be sweet. If the cams are locked, there's fark all you can do about it without changing your power band and needing a retune.
    1 point
  40. Another good stint today although it was too farken hot. I've got it running now, no leaks which is a friggin miracle. Tomorrow I'm gonna swap the bonnet for a turbo bonnet so the top mount intercooler can get some air flow. I need to for the intercooler which is a 5 minute job, fit the intake pipe which is another 5 minutes, fit a 4 bar reg, also 5 minutes, swap the map sensor and flash a tune into it. I'll have to spend some time with the wideband and knock ears to dial it in but that generally only takes me a few hours with a simple tune like this. Haha no boost control to worry about, just 12psi gate pressure. For anyone wondering wtf I'm on about, I'm fitting turbo stuff to my na territory. The turbo is a billet wheel 3576, perfect for what I'm doing.
    1 point
  41. Shed stuff is clocking the turbo, setting preload, modding oil return, stuff like that. Car stuff is working on the actual car which is in the driveway.
    1 point
  42. Come on man show some enthusiasm
    1 point
  43. Shoulders today … the last couple shoulder days I’ve managed to DB shoulder press the 25kg dbs for reps so pretty stoked… also took a pretty cool photo and realised how much back gains have been made May 2023-Feb 2024
    1 point
  44. Any update to this, I've got a MKII 04 XR6T and have been dealing with the same issue, and similarly replaced alot of the same parts with no success. Just purchased Forscan OBD and from what I could see no significant faults that would cause this issue. Just purchased another o2 sensor in the hopes that the previous one I installed might have been d.o.a any help would be great! T.I.a.
    1 point
  45. Theorectly it should make no difference but if there is a problem with earthing (remember we are dealing with less than 1 volt) it can't hurt
    1 point
  46. Thanks 4321, I'll check it out over the weekend! Why would running an earth from battery to engine change anything? Is there a known farthing issue with these cats? Cheers again for the help!
    1 point
  47. Also talk to Paul at Elite Automotive . Located at Archerfield. My tuner of choice in Brisbane area. I've tried 7 tuners in 3 states over the past decade and these guys are as better than most
    1 point
  48. I can agree that the xr6 5speed auto is sh*t my car will clunk every time I go from p to r into d when cruising gears won't change properly and even when u punt it hard seem for it to take a few seconds before it starts to move I wish I went for the 6speed zf even my ba mk2 turbo 4speed trans goes better and harder then the 5speed
    1 point
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