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Hi all, it's been a while.. I couldn't get the VN ready in time for Rockynats, so I put some time in to the old girl and got her mobile again. As I had to pull the IRS to replace the outer diff support bushes, I decided to finally assemble the Try Trac that has been sitting in the shed for the past 4 years. While I was at it, I put a new set of Dana gears, so that I didn't have to cannibalise the centre that was being removed. Having missed all previous Rocky Nats due to work, I decided that I was not going to miss another. I have a great time, met many wonderful people and checked out some really cool rides. I didn't take any pics of the car, but I found some on the Nat page that I have shared below. I have also included a current pic of the bay. It has changed somewhat and looks a lot neater. The car was running really crappy, which is why I haven't really been interested in it. My tuna (Joke) installed the latest firmware update and utilised the new manifold pressure predication vs fuel table, car now runs like factory, no more hunting at idle, or stalling. For the first time in a while, I can honestly say that I really enjoy driving the car again. I have also started to make some carbon parts again, although it has been somewhat of a learning curve. I am currently toying with a new rocker garnish to suit the FG rocker cover (1st attempt failed due to air leak in the bagging, so I laid up a new one in the mould tonight) and will soon start on a modified version of the radiator sight cover. I will also have to find some time to remove the dash, as the dreaded mixer shaft failure has finally eventuated. FML Until next time... 🍺

Righto I did my thing and here's an update. I did a comp test and one of the cylinders was low with others being out of spec too. Turns out the head was leaking like a mofo out of the exhaust valves...so I rebuilt the engine. I used stock turbo pistons, Spool I beam rods, upgraded piston pins, Cometic 3 layer MLS, ARP head studs with OS washers, new hx bearings with 360 thrust, inconel high pressure oil pump spring with adjustable relief, oil pump gears and backing plate, Ross balancer, Plazmaman intake and maybe more I forgot. I got hectic with the valve grinding paste and the head is passable. I relocated my trans cooler under the car and wired in the fan with a relay and a switch. I painted the rocker cover with Black Velvet Cerakote, it was sh*t before and now is a bit less sh*t. Haha I still gotta fit the catch can, I'll do that later I suppose. I've had a successful test drive or 3 today, no leaks etc so happy days. It still runs the same boost, it makes 300awkw on about 14.7psi. This should tide me over until I can afford to rebuilt the actual turbo territory. The only thing I really want to do with it now is to have electronic boost control, the na pcm doesn't have that so I'm in the gutter using a boost tee. Here's a pic, hard to believe I did it all in the span of 1 week, in the driveway, while still having family commitments.

Thought it would be appropriate to thank the people most responsible for the successful completion of this project. * This bloke needs no introduction. Aaron aka JETURBO for all the engine and fabrication work. Words are not enough to express how grateful I am for the time and effort that Aaron put into this car. The result is something to behold. Thanks mate. * Paul @ PE Customs in Brisbane for the paint job which is perfection personified * Mike @ Mike Savage Custom Bonnets at Bargo in NSW. It’s a hybrid design we cooked up that actually works. It’s that heavy I had to get new bonnet struts to hold it up lol.

This thread is about my territory adventures so may as well do a consolidation post here. I bought another territory, 7 seater, cloth interior, non turbo 2009 model zf awd, 360xxxkm, lightning strike same as the turbo one, trans in limp home mode, clunks and bangs galore, busted tailgate, no oil showing on the dipstick, farked lifters, overheating, slightly missing, $1500. I probably paid too much for it but considering I can do all the work it ain't that bad. So far I've chucked a reco tailshaft in it, new rear shocks, new front diff bushes, new front wheel bearings, new front lower ball joints, front sway bar bushes and links, a second hand set of trans solenoids to fix the trans issue, an engine service, a trans service, fuel filter, thermostat, rocker cover gasket kit, external trans cooler, a front mount intercooler, 1500cc injectors, 255 fuel pump, drop in adjustable fuel reg, valve springs, anti pump up lifters, roller rockers, spark plugs, genuine coils, billet wheel gt3576 with flapper mod, stock dump and stock turbo territory exhaust, engine tune obviously, trans tune, a second hand tailgate to replace the trailer hit one, 4 tyres, brake pads all round and I reckon that's about it. No doubt I'll remember something else once I hit post. I've still got the rear sway bar bushes to install and also rear diff bushes. I'll get to that in 3 months when my arm is better. It started out at probably 130awkw as an na beast, probably went up to 145awkw with a tune and now is sitting at around 275awkw with the turbo stuff installed. Anyhow there is that, now people can read about it here instead of it being spread out through the forum.

Valve springs are going in, Plazmaman Pro

I dont think you can call it Na anymore. Its got more fruit than a turbo terry since you've been hard at work

Cheers, this is my cart... add hose, rad zip ties and gulf western atf, filter and gasket and I think im sorted. https://imgur.com/ZB15x18

I've increased the boost on the na+t territory and it makes a bit over 300awkw and 600nm on 15psi. As a result the trans needed an update to the tune, which I did this morning. Once again the shifts are quick and crisp and you wouldn't know it's an na trans in there. I think this is where I'll stop the increase in power, it is a na engine after all. When the time is right I'll do some minor engine work to it so it can handle all the boost, but for now it will do.

THE END

I've found "quilton" does the job no finger-through-the-paper problems haha morning all, happy Friday 📧

clearly the latter... only certain brands are acceptable and don't rip as soon as you go to grab a couple of squares

In other news the missus bought a different brand of tp recently. Do they actually test how strong the paper is or do they just cut down a tree, mush it up and call it good?

The cam timing is more retarded at idle and cruise by about 10 degrees which makes it quieter.

does add a certain uniqueness to your car; nice and the rear bar with the twin exits looks great

Yep mine has already been pre hammered. Here's a tip for making the car quieter, use an fgx sprint cam timing map and it'll be all kinds of quiet.

and the motorbike I had to sell (hence buying myself a 'nice' car) due to personal tragedy. and finally the pos VW boring as hell econobox diesel that's about as exciting as a fridge without an ice maker.

swap the plastic connectors around, just push in the sides inside the holes and pull the connector off. Unclip the ear nose clamps, holding the existing hoses on and replace with an L shaped hose by Gates, Part number is 02-0025

Unsure what the coolant ID size is (19mm maybe)? I'd just use copper pipe as it's easily flared and bent but that's me. Pretty sure they sell a pipe to connect them and fits to the old mounting locations but unsure of the name...

what is everyone doing in regard to the coolant lines that go into the exchanger once they bypass it to an oil/air cooler at the front? I could just leave it connected but if the inside of the exchanger degrades im going to be dumping my coolant all over the road lol. https://www.carmodsaustralia.com.au/PWR-PWO0528-XPX-Trans-Oil-Cooler-280-x-255-x-19mm-3/8-Hose-Barb https://www.carmodsaustralia.com.au/Raceworks-RWF-411-08-06BK-AN-Female-to-Barb https://www.carmodsaustralia.com.au/transmission-oil-cooler-adapter-fittings-2pk-ford that's what im planning on using, plus some 3/8" tube of course.

Yeah man, 80/20 is the bare minimum for us too. Hopefully we get fibre over the next 10 years or less.

I read the replies on the thread early on boys but didn't get a chance to reply until now. With the battery tray, because of the way ANTZ have the tray propped up just by one support in the centre and also because the metal tray can be flexed, the battery can be rocked with pressure forward and back. I worked out the easiest fix is to drill 2 bolt holes into the tray and make a support and drill that into the engine bay metal (small screws). Should work a charm. Just have to get a flat bar of metal and I should be set!

My tuner just got back to me and turns out I will only need the 5bar tmap and can repurpose the boost sensor input. https://www.independentmotorsports.com.au/5-bar-t-map-sensor-omnipower

I had to do mine recently. all the bottom ones were basically hand tight. I think its been about 40, 000 since I installed it. I had normal studs and norlock washers. but I dont think there verry good when the glue melts? anyway might have to buy something for it if it loosens again

gotta love an easy fix

Great job! I will have some pics of my fgx adventures soon, efr 9174, artec high mount, farmer made custom 4 inch dump etc.

Hey, probably not easily, unless you had a network log running while you did it. morning all, happy Good Friday (for those that follow that, otherwise just Friday) 📜

The lad has his 12th birthday today and he wants steak. Haha I taught him well

I would send noods but I don't think there is enough data on the internet to support the file size required for my magnum dong

2.5 years you mean to reply to a thread no one was able to help with, which is why I took it in to a workshop.

Oh yeah that's right! I'd forgotten it was that bit!

Hey mate, I ended up taking it in to have it professionally looked over, they took two days to figure out the issue was, it wanst making any power 200rwkw so the tuner took off the back half and she picked up 111rwkw, ultimately was a blocked muffler. I had a few other things done and got the car back with 320rwkw.

Nice one man, I've thought about doing this to an na AWD Territory. Cool project

I have a couple of sets of turbo rods I can use, also a bunch of turbo pistons etc. I could just slap my spool I beam rods in it and a set of turbo pistons, that will keep it safe to make all the power that turbo can throw at it. So far the trans is fine, I've given it a pretty decent tune up and it's behaving itself for now. Obviously that will change if I throw much more power at it but again, I have some bits I can chuck in it to make it stronger without costing anything. It would be better to have a spare engine so I can do the work on one, then swap it over in a day so there isn't much down time. @Typhoon you're selling an engine ain't ya?

As always a quick check with virtual dyno, now it makes 291awkw at 13.7psi vs the 276awkw it was making at 13.4psi previously. It's also only making 203awkw at 3500rpm vs the 300awkw it did on a cold night a few nights ago. That's what's gonna keep the rods in it lol.

That actually the main reason I swapped it. The little turbo was making a sh*tload of midrange torque whereas this one has moved it up. The little one actually made 300awkw at only 3500rpm once, the larger one wont do that which will save the rods lol.

Once again it's all keefs fault...I installed the gen2 gtx3582r I had sitting on the shelf this morning.

Hey mate. I honestly can't remember exactly where the other hole was, but I remember just visually tracing how fuel flows through the module to identify any restrictions so I suspect it will be obvious once you are in there. Sold the car last Friday so I can't even have a look to confirm. I did also have to adjust the low slope a little to get LTFT spot on. As Puff says this is likely just due to aftermarket dump and cat so nothing unusual. Since the above, car behaved beautifully in the years following.

can't go wrong with that idea

Doing well! House is at roof carpentry stage. Should have the frame done by the end of the week, then they will do the roofing and external ceiling stuff. Went for a job interview yesrerday at WesTrac as a MCG (machine control and guidance) Tecnology Technician. Complete shift of career. Kinda came outta nowhere. Long story short, I have more career growth opportunity through this career, and its basically a glorified auto sparky role, which I do heaps of in my spare time. Super interesting role. End up fifo for 3-5 years and then move back to engineering role in the city. They really liked me and were impressed with my auto sparky knowledge without any trade. Same goes for networking knowledge. Missing the skid pig and stuggling to find a replacement 😞 With the new job and more pay towards the end of year, I'm hoping I can move on to my next project. Keep trying to head in a different direction from Ford and barras, but I find myself coming back.... Can only come back in an FPV of FGX 😏

Good outcome mate. Exact experience I had going from 10W40 to 20W60. I even found the 15W50 Penrite 10 tenths not quite enough. Do you roll around on the road at 1000hp all the time?

Hey mate yeah I still have the issue have the issue the last thing I did was replace the the fuel pressure regulator and it still does it. I work FiFio so the car is parked up majority of the time these days. Think I'm going to have to bite the bullet and take it to a shop to have them diagnose the issue.

Did another log to work still in open loop decided to check fault codes again, now I have a pcm fault. Reset the pcm car went back to closed loop for about 1min and then went back to open loop again, fault code hasn't shown up yet. https://www.instagram.com/p/CTPsdDqBzCw/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Did another log on the way home from work, https://www.instagram.com/p/CTO1Wqah5S1/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link Drove alot better than it has for a while fuel trip still continues to come down, its only when on idle it's having the issue. I heard that the factory fuel rail can rust over years internally and gunk up the fpr, hopefully it'll be that or the return will see this week. Only thing I noticed is the whole time it stayed in the open loop which I'd think is odd as open loop is the ecu not taking reading from the 02 correct?.

Custom dyno tune. Intercooler and injectors. No wideband installed, rich as in using not pulling fuel out. Just went for a drive and monitored the 02v and it's stays at .90v and only when blipping the throttle it'll dip down and then return back to .88-90v should be around .45v stoich correct?

Yeah I got it tuned I have 3 different settings but since the issue, reverted it back to stock map.

what does the hot water do and if it’s stops the rough idling then how and what’s causing it I’ve changed coils,plugs,02sensor,I had only put on new keyless pads with keys and did it fords way press rear demister button for three times and when door locks open press each button on each pad so you know they are setup correctly First drive after doing these my car has been idling fine when cold as soon as it’s upto normal driving temperature the car idles very roughly when I put it into neutral it’s okay WHAT IS CAUSING THIS NIGHTMARE OF AN ISSUE SURELY MY CAMSHAFT HASNT GOT THIS LUMPY GRIND IT WOULD HAVE DONE IT PRIOR TO THIS IVE HAD CAR SEVEN YEARS NOW ONLY 112,300klms very good condition

Another pump question. BF xr6t - flash tuned and flowed injectors only (stock pump). After sitting for a couple of hours when starting you need to hold the key on for a few seconds before starting. Strait starting results in pre-ignition or backfire (which blows the PCV hose off). 1: Is this likley to be caused by fuel pressure dissipating when shut down? 2: If yes, are there a few likely causes. I can buy a guage and test but if there are other ways to diagnose the prob with my eyes, or if there is a common fault peeps know about I can save the money. Thanks in advance

is this part of the fuel tank setup? I was under the impression you needed to drill out the return hole in the fuel pressure regulator itself, or purchase the bolt in GFB one when installing high flow pumps.

Don't try & clean sensor just replace it with a new quality one (only the frount one not the one under the car) O2 sensors are not designed to last the life of the vehicle veiw them as a long term spark plug. While these engines have suspect coils (replace with genuine only) if it runs good on the road it does not sound spark related, as you accelerate you add more fuel and therefor need more spark to light it. If there's not enough spark at idle there's not going to be any were near enough under acceleration for it to run properly. by all means change the spark plugs (and do a comp test while your there) check or replace coils is a maintenance thing on these engines. You might just have a leaking inlet gasket or the injectors need cleaning but you have to make sure the basics are right

its not a very good pic