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Hi all, it's been a while.. I couldn't get the VN ready in time for Rockynats, so I put some time in to the old girl and got her mobile again. As I had to pull the IRS to replace the outer diff support bushes, I decided to finally assemble the Try Trac that has been sitting in the shed for the past 4 years. While I was at it, I put a new set of Dana gears, so that I didn't have to cannibalise the centre that was being removed. Having missed all previous Rocky Nats due to work, I decided that I was not going to miss another. I have a great time, met many wonderful people and checked out some really cool rides. I didn't take any pics of the car, but I found some on the Nat page that I have shared below. I have also included a current pic of the bay. It has changed somewhat and looks a lot neater. The car was running really crappy, which is why I haven't really been interested in it. My tuna (Joke) installed the latest firmware update and utilised the new manifold pressure predication vs fuel table, car now runs like factory, no more hunting at idle, or stalling. For the first time in a while, I can honestly say that I really enjoy driving the car again. I have also started to make some carbon parts again, although it has been somewhat of a learning curve. I am currently toying with a new rocker garnish to suit the FG rocker cover (1st attempt failed due to air leak in the bagging, so I laid up a new one in the mould tonight) and will soon start on a modified version of the radiator sight cover. I will also have to find some time to remove the dash, as the dreaded mixer shaft failure has finally eventuated. FML Until next time... 🍺

Righto I did my thing and here's an update. I did a comp test and one of the cylinders was low with others being out of spec too. Turns out the head was leaking like a mofo out of the exhaust valves...so I rebuilt the engine. I used stock turbo pistons, Spool I beam rods, upgraded piston pins, Cometic 3 layer MLS, ARP head studs with OS washers, new hx bearings with 360 thrust, inconel high pressure oil pump spring with adjustable relief, oil pump gears and backing plate, Ross balancer, Plazmaman intake and maybe more I forgot. I got hectic with the valve grinding paste and the head is passable. I relocated my trans cooler under the car and wired in the fan with a relay and a switch. I painted the rocker cover with Black Velvet Cerakote, it was sh*t before and now is a bit less sh*t. Haha I still gotta fit the catch can, I'll do that later I suppose. I've had a successful test drive or 3 today, no leaks etc so happy days. It still runs the same boost, it makes 300awkw on about 14.7psi. This should tide me over until I can afford to rebuilt the actual turbo territory. The only thing I really want to do with it now is to have electronic boost control, the na pcm doesn't have that so I'm in the gutter using a boost tee. Here's a pic, hard to believe I did it all in the span of 1 week, in the driveway, while still having family commitments.

Thought it would be appropriate to thank the people most responsible for the successful completion of this project. * This bloke needs no introduction. Aaron aka JETURBO for all the engine and fabrication work. Words are not enough to express how grateful I am for the time and effort that Aaron put into this car. The result is something to behold. Thanks mate. * Paul @ PE Customs in Brisbane for the paint job which is perfection personified * Mike @ Mike Savage Custom Bonnets at Bargo in NSW. It’s a hybrid design we cooked up that actually works. It’s that heavy I had to get new bonnet struts to hold it up lol.

This thread is about my territory adventures so may as well do a consolidation post here. I bought another territory, 7 seater, cloth interior, non turbo 2009 model zf awd, 360xxxkm, lightning strike same as the turbo one, trans in limp home mode, clunks and bangs galore, busted tailgate, no oil showing on the dipstick, farked lifters, overheating, slightly missing, $1500. I probably paid too much for it but considering I can do all the work it ain't that bad. So far I've chucked a reco tailshaft in it, new rear shocks, new front diff bushes, new front wheel bearings, new front lower ball joints, front sway bar bushes and links, a second hand set of trans solenoids to fix the trans issue, an engine service, a trans service, fuel filter, thermostat, rocker cover gasket kit, external trans cooler, a front mount intercooler, 1500cc injectors, 255 fuel pump, drop in adjustable fuel reg, valve springs, anti pump up lifters, roller rockers, spark plugs, genuine coils, billet wheel gt3576 with flapper mod, stock dump and stock turbo territory exhaust, engine tune obviously, trans tune, a second hand tailgate to replace the trailer hit one, 4 tyres, brake pads all round and I reckon that's about it. No doubt I'll remember something else once I hit post. I've still got the rear sway bar bushes to install and also rear diff bushes. I'll get to that in 3 months when my arm is better. It started out at probably 130awkw as an na beast, probably went up to 145awkw with a tune and now is sitting at around 275awkw with the turbo stuff installed. Anyhow there is that, now people can read about it here instead of it being spread out through the forum.

Valve springs are going in, Plazmaman Pro

I dont think you can call it Na anymore. Its got more fruit than a turbo terry since you've been hard at work

Cheers, this is my cart... add hose, rad zip ties and gulf western atf, filter and gasket and I think im sorted. https://imgur.com/ZB15x18

I've increased the boost on the na+t territory and it makes a bit over 300awkw and 600nm on 15psi. As a result the trans needed an update to the tune, which I did this morning. Once again the shifts are quick and crisp and you wouldn't know it's an na trans in there. I think this is where I'll stop the increase in power, it is a na engine after all. When the time is right I'll do some minor engine work to it so it can handle all the boost, but for now it will do.

THE END

I've found "quilton" does the job no finger-through-the-paper problems haha morning all, happy Friday 📧

clearly the latter... only certain brands are acceptable and don't rip as soon as you go to grab a couple of squares

In other news the missus bought a different brand of tp recently. Do they actually test how strong the paper is or do they just cut down a tree, mush it up and call it good?

The cam timing is more retarded at idle and cruise by about 10 degrees which makes it quieter.

It's a genuine DJR 320 kit.

Yep mine has already been pre hammered. Here's a tip for making the car quieter, use an fgx sprint cam timing map and it'll be all kinds of quiet.

I'm an Atheist haha so you can put the hail-mary's approximately here

swap the plastic connectors around, just push in the sides inside the holes and pull the connector off. Unclip the ear nose clamps, holding the existing hoses on and replace with an L shaped hose by Gates, Part number is 02-0025

Yeah man, 80/20 is the bare minimum for us too. Hopefully we get fibre over the next 10 years or less.

I have HFC here with FttN NBN. Had 100/40 for ages with a cheap ISP and it was a barely okay sort of service. Upgraded that to a more internet focused service provider more recently to 250/20 and it's a lot better.

There's a huge list of "pros" like you've listed for the country-living, but a huge list of "cons" as well, same as for living nearer to the city... I'll weigh it all up and spend heaps of money either way haha.

Sure sounds like it.

nice work on squeezing that in for ACDT morning all, happy Friday 🔖

I've got something planned, I'll update when it's done.

I guess it might have to be another stock injector. Well I'm pretty positive it's the injector. I put new plugs in and gapped them to .7 still ran the same, swapped coils with cylinder 1 was still the same. Very noticeable on the graph when reving, holding 2000rpm levels out but some exaust popping, taking my foot off the throttle after holding revs the graph on number 5 goes crazy unless I got a bad plug ? Double checked fuel pressure and it's 4bar with out vacum connected. It's not picking up any codes except p0420 and that's cause my cats been taken out

Great job! I will have some pics of my fgx adventures soon, efr 9174, artec high mount, farmer made custom 4 inch dump etc.

I would send noods but I don't think there is enough data on the internet to support the file size required for my magnum dong

Hi all, I've had an issue with my car running rich now for month's, I've replaced alot of parts trying to figure out what the cause is with no success. A while back my car started to run super rough and rich, figured it was a vacuum leak somewhere or coils. Turned out it was the lower plenum gasket, replaced and it fixed the idle issue but not the over rich condition. Since I've done the following trying to figure out what the cause is: Purchased new oem coils/plugs Replaced TB gasket, PCV valve, Plenum gasket, New battery, Venum high flow cat/Y piece, New fuel filter, New O2 sensor, New Bosche Map sensor. New O-rings/micron filter on injectors. Just picked up the FORscan tool and the O2 shows as 0.9v on idle, when I rev the car to redline in park it'll head back to a more Stoich reading and idle more smooth for about 5secs before going back to 0.85-.90v I've ordered another VOD 02 sensor in the hopes the previous bosche one was d.o.a but I'm at a loss as to what the issue is?. Thermo? CHT sensor?. There's a other guy on here who had the exact same issue but it seems there's was no conclusion, any help would be greatly appreciated t.I.a.

When I worked at a workshop, we would install a boost reference nipple into the front part of the exhaust to diagnose back pressure issues. If a car is making lots of boost and not much power, this is one of the first things to check.

Nice one man, I've thought about doing this to an na AWD Territory. Cool project

As always a quick check with virtual dyno, now it makes 291awkw at 13.7psi vs the 276awkw it was making at 13.4psi previously. It's also only making 203awkw at 3500rpm vs the 300awkw it did on a cold night a few nights ago. That's what's gonna keep the rods in it lol.

That actually the main reason I swapped it. The little turbo was making a sh*tload of midrange torque whereas this one has moved it up. The little one actually made 300awkw at only 3500rpm once, the larger one wont do that which will save the rods lol.

Once again it's all keefs fault...I installed the gen2 gtx3582r I had sitting on the shelf this morning.

can't go wrong with that idea

It might, one way to find out. Maybe it needs 2 turbos to keep the exhaust separate?

I'll take the blame turbo'ing every car that you buy should be mandatory

Good outcome mate. Exact experience I had going from 10W40 to 20W60. I even found the 15W50 Penrite 10 tenths not quite enough. Do you roll around on the road at 1000hp all the time?

Hey mate yeah I still have the issue have the issue the last thing I did was replace the the fuel pressure regulator and it still does it. I work FiFio so the car is parked up majority of the time these days. Think I'm going to have to bite the bullet and take it to a shop to have them diagnose the issue.

Hey mate I have similar issues and also this exact code on my ba xr6t now Aswell. Mine was open loop faulting. I tracked that to bad oxygen sensor wireing....fixed that. Change oxygen sensor Aswell. But also had TPS... throttle pedal....and 2 other oxygen sensor codes that I couldn't get rid of no matter what I did till I swapped around the ess(?) Relay and came good but the p0172 code I am yet to get rid off and it's using a fair bit of fuel again What I'm about to try is the CHT sensor as it's reading that it's at 1/4 on guage no matter tragic the jumps up a little then down just as quick. ..other thing is I was gonna check vacume leaks again and also fuel pressure return restriction in line as the FPR is fine/new. Don't like using bucket loads of fuel haha

Did another log to work still in open loop decided to check fault codes again, now I have a pcm fault. Reset the pcm car went back to closed loop for about 1min and then went back to open loop again, fault code hasn't shown up yet. https://www.instagram.com/p/CTPsdDqBzCw/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Yeah checked, for codes nothing significant, and have also checked the CHT and it's nominal at 90c. The open loop occurred only after changing to this new O2 sensor. The LTFT are adjusting and after a while, cruising at about 80kph it'll sit. Notice in the last pic the STFT had improved significant also. However the voltage on the 02 sensor still is showing to high voltage when the car is coasting or at idle which is when fuel trims go out the window and the car starts using more fuel again. Hopefully the FPR will get here by the weekend and I'll install it to see how it goes.

Update installed the new o2 sensor. Now it seems to be running better around town went for a drive and got the fuel trip down from 19 to 16. Where it still seems to run rich and cause issue, is idling.

From my understanding long-term is what the car has learnt over time?. Can you explain why and also what value I should be looking for on a stock tune?. Put it this way the cars fuel trip on the dash over time has gone from about 13.1 to as high as 25L per 100. managed to get it down to 19 by driving it like a nanna.

Custom dyno tune. Intercooler and injectors. No wideband installed, rich as in using not pulling fuel out. Just went for a drive and monitored the 02v and it's stays at .90v and only when blipping the throttle it'll dip down and then return back to .88-90v should be around .45v stoich correct?

what does the hot water do and if it’s stops the rough idling then how and what’s causing it I’ve changed coils,plugs,02sensor,I had only put on new keyless pads with keys and did it fords way press rear demister button for three times and when door locks open press each button on each pad so you know they are setup correctly First drive after doing these my car has been idling fine when cold as soon as it’s upto normal driving temperature the car idles very roughly when I put it into neutral it’s okay WHAT IS CAUSING THIS NIGHTMARE OF AN ISSUE SURELY MY CAMSHAFT HASNT GOT THIS LUMPY GRIND IT WOULD HAVE DONE IT PRIOR TO THIS IVE HAD CAR SEVEN YEARS NOW ONLY 112,300klms very good condition

Unfortunately this issue continues to hang around, even though at times it looks a bit better. I built a tune that basically got rid of any lambda corrections, kept the car in open loop and targeted a flat 0.95 everywhere so I could see easily what was going on. Car could happily hold commanded lambda with a bit of load, but was very rich at idle. Made me suspicious of fuel pressure and also I think eliminated things like an erratic O2 sensor. Had some rose joints replaced in the rear yeaterday so got them to test my fuel pressure while they had it. Had been tested before (reported back as "ok") so asked for the actual value. Good news is that it was 65psi at idle - I think I've found the cause of my negative fuel trims. Reckon step 1 is to disconnect the return line under the car and point it at the mower petrol tin. If the fuel trims settle down while idling, I know I've got an issue somewhere between there and the tank. Hard lines all look good so reckon checking the pump module would come after that.

Another pump question. BF xr6t - flash tuned and flowed injectors only (stock pump). After sitting for a couple of hours when starting you need to hold the key on for a few seconds before starting. Strait starting results in pre-ignition or backfire (which blows the PCV hose off). 1: Is this likley to be caused by fuel pressure dissipating when shut down? 2: If yes, are there a few likely causes. I can buy a guage and test but if there are other ways to diagnose the prob with my eyes, or if there is a common fault peeps know about I can save the money. Thanks in advance

for 320rwkw, a GSS340 is plenty for an in-pod pickup pump and provides the pickup abilities for surge-tank setups if you go that way for more power in the future.

You need this

is this part of the fuel tank setup? I was under the impression you needed to drill out the return hole in the fuel pressure regulator itself, or purchase the bolt in GFB one when installing high flow pumps.

its not a very good pic