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Showing content with the highest reputation on 16/06/17 in all areas

  1. Best Q&A in that blog: Will this fit in my Honda? Of course. Paging @.Stripes.
    4 points
  2. Thought I would share some photos of the new look. Just added new wheels, brakes and suspension
    3 points
  3. Haha, agreed! The worst part: May I ask why you didn't put forged internals into it? Lowering the comp ratio on a turbo engine is only to allow detonation free tuning on a specific fuel that is prone to knock. If you are using E85 then leave it as is, compression and turbos are are good combo. That question and answer are not even related haha
    3 points
  4. 2 points
  5. I'm not in Sydney, but still found Matt could do me a better price than anywhere local even once shipping was added.
    2 points
  6. Mint... wheels look tough Still not sold on the FGX front end but the G6E is pick of the lineup stylewise imho
    1 point
  7. Turbo front brakes, whether G6ET or XR6T are 322mm Go to Race Brakes Sydney, talk to Matt and tell him they were recommended on the Ford forums Best price, great service. Grab some pads while you're at it, read this thread for recommendations but ignore freaky cos he can't make up his mind... http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/88776-fg-brake-upgrade/
    1 point
  8. Que container loads of barra motors getting shipped back to Japan to be used in Formula Drift
    1 point
  9. Hey mate. I chose Dulux colours (had a Dulux colour consultant come out from Bunnings, only cost $100) but actually used Solver paint, as my brother in law (painter) got a really good deal through his supplier a few months back and I got 50L of Solver ultra for $320. I gave the Dulux colour codes to the painter and he had the Solver shop make up the tints to match the Dulux colours. We used Dulux 'Lexicon Quarter' for the ceilings (which is essentially 'Vivid White' with a shot of black in it - painters pretty much mostly need to do this anyway to be able to see their coverage. It's also known as 'WA White' over here...it's pretty much the standard white white colour) Dulux 'Lexicon Quarter' gloss for doors, frames and skirting. Dulux 'Vanilla Quake Half' for the main wall colour. Dulux 'Heifer' for the feature walls. Be really mindful of what sort of feel you're aiming for with your house before choosing your paint. I initially choose a colour from the small Dulux swatches from Bunnings called 'Highgate' that I though looked really nice. Did a bit of googling and found a few examples of people painting their houses with it and it came out really blue on the walls. I've also read a LOT of instances where people have been really displeased with Dulux 'Lexicon' (even in half strength) on walls as it also has a tendency to look blue. Blue tinge is ok, if that's what you're after. But it does tend to make a house feel a bit colder and less warm and homely. 'Cool' paint colours have more blue and green in them and less red, and are a little more show homey. 'Warm' colours tend to have more red and less blue and green and feel more homely and inviting. Also need to take into account your lighting. Are the LED downlights you added 'warm white' or 'cool white'? If you went with 'cool white' then you'll definitely want to pick a paint colour that gives some warmth back, as those lights tend to emphasise a bit more of a cold hospital/clinical/showhome type feel. I was wanting a warmish grey (definitely didn't want blue) that opened my place up and made it more modern, but still feel homely and not clinical. Need to add a bit more colour back with artwork, but even though the main wall grey ended up slightly lighter (and perhaps a little more 'cool') than I'd initially been aiming for I'm really happy with the outcome as it's done what I was hoping it would in terms of feel and look. Another nice warm colour to take a look at is Dulux 'Grey Pebble' and its half variant. I was initially pretty keen on it for my place, but the colour consultant talked me out of it because the floorboards in my place would make it turn a bit too brown. My friend has it in half strength on his walls and it's a really nice colour. Your carpet reminds me of my childhood haha! Can't wait to see the progress pics as you start working through it all! When are you looking at getting the painting and carpets done etc? Is the paint on the wall behind the bachelor artwork the feature wall colour you mentioned?
    1 point
  10. I was in the same situation as you. got my foot in the door, had to paint, new carpet, I did backyard 80% complete, im moving onto the kitchen this year. as for paint I used dulux but its a fkn rip off and for the kitchen and lounge im switching to British paint or maybe taubmans. apparently cheaper. but fek dulux. prices went up across the board I think too. because I dont like the blue tinge in our hallway/bedroom paint im biting the bullet and repainting. lesson learnt on that one.
    1 point
  11. I swapped a BA turbo engine into my BA wagon. Both cars were auto which made it easier. I wanted to keep it easy for me in that I didnt want to take the car somewhere to get the PCM flashed to get it going. Its not exactly what you are doing but its just an example and might prompt you to think about some of the other issues you will come across. I had to install a turbo engine bay loom (or N/A XR6 as previously mentioned) which has the plug for wastgate solenoid. This required removing the drivers side guard. The passenger side loom was just the additional third plug plus loom on the PCM for wastegate. I swapped in the PCM and BEM from the donor car. I also had to swap the dash loom as it has extra wiring for T/C light in the cluster, wiring for the auto headlight sensor and a few other things. This meant the whole dash came out. The wagon was only a 3 channel ABS sensor car so I had to swap the ABS module for the 4 channel one out of the turbo car. This also required a second brake line running from the front to back of the car. The rear brakes are normally on one circuit on the wagon and the turbo ABS module requires two lines. I used the existing airbag/restraint module. There is a program called Forscan that I used to delete the turbo keys from the PCM and BCM so I could use my wagon keys (wagon steering column). This process was relatively easy but I couldn't find much info on it before I started. Installing the turbo engine, turbo trans and intercooler etc was the easy bit. The only outstanding thing is that the car has a 3.23 ratio diff whereas the donor car had a 3.45. Speedo is not out as the speed is measured from the wheel ABS sensors. The only part I paid someone for was to make the rear section of the exhaust over the diff. In your case, you have the pedal assembly to swap, clutch reservoir, wastegate solenoid, engine bay loom or just the wiring for the solenoid if you want to save a bit of time, tailshaft... The diff will be fine to get it mobile but as has been said it might not last too long. In saying that, my M78 wagon diff with an LSD has held up fine but its just a stock tune. Your biggest hurdle will be because you are installing an earlier series engine into a later series car and I expect you will have to take it somewhere to sort the PCM out so it talks with the rest of your car and you can start it UNLESS you change everything so the PATS system is happy. If you are getting it tuned anyway they can probably sort that stuff out for you anyway. Will just need to get towed there.
    1 point
  12. That most certainly sounds like you've got a skipped tooth on the timing chain. The VCT solenoids will leak if you've actually got a problem there (most likely in the event of VCT error). Take the timing cover off and rotate the chain via the harmonic balancer bolt until you've see the timing marks line up at the time (can take a LOT of turning to get them to line up).
    1 point
  13. Had my first go on Barbagello on saturday, and wow its a bit harder than Collie. First thoughts were how hard it is to judge where the apex of the corner is because theyre quite long corners often going over hills, as such I think I hit the apexes way too early and just end up hugging the inside of the track for the rest of it. None the less I had an absolute killer time and at least memorized the track somewhat for next time. Ran a best of 1:14.3 with plenty of room for improvement, and im looking for advice on how to reduce it Car: BA XT -> BA XR6 turbo conversion (5 speed manual) Mods: PBR premium front brakes with PMu HC800 pads, DBA slotted and drilled rotors, Territory rear brakes with Bremtec Evolve pads, Castrol high performance brake fluid, rear sway bar removed. Stock everything else VIdeo: few pics:
    1 point
  14. 1 point
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