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  1. Hey guys. Been such a long time since I've been on the forums. How is everyone? Last time I had any contact was ages ago!!! Smurfs still in action, well wasn't for 2 years as I was rebuilding bigger and better. Anyone in Sydney?
    12 points
  2. If this thread single handily doesn’t show how much of a immature person Arronm is nothing would. Why even bring your useless B/S into general threads regarding general questions Arron ? Seriously no one gives two Chits and no one thinks your “so cool” Your an old man, fruck off and tell all your mates at the Pub how cool you are 😐 Since you’ve always had a crack at nearly every single persons mods/tune/Dyno sheet let’s have a look at your “Magical” witchcraft sheet.... Shall we ? Barely makes 2 psi against the roller - That’s actually really appalling for a GT3582 Takes up until 5000rpm till it makes 15psi ... That’s terribly laggy Power comes over and can’t even pull until redline... Yep what a winner ( performance head that can’t flow past 6000rpm, yeh killer sign me up for one ) Boost can’t even be commanded and held flat... Basic tuning/set up of turbocharger specifics ... ( can’t wait for the excuse on this one ) Power generation down low is pretty average and nothing is showing exemplary efficiency here as depicted by the Torque displacement What you actually have is a “Dyno queen” tune as I doubt a “Fully Built Nizpro” F6 is missing some vital hardware that your tuner is allowing for and can’t ramp it in hard and fast 🤣 Looking forward to you replying to each above statements with facts, know you’ll just sprout off about some totally unrelated issues but you ... Go Girl ! To the bloke who started this thread, Sprints are a good package, I’ve got 414 of 500 and Some might say I know what I’m doing in regards to modifying and tuning Turbo falcons ... Yes the magical 400rwkw zone typically falls just short on the factory turbo GT3582 on 98 fuel so unless it’s tuned Really lazy like old mate above’s graph or on E85 it probably wont do it with full list of mods. Common safe ground is about 18 psi & 360-380rwkw with the GT3582 on the FG/FGX platform A GTX3582 G2 is what you will want to keep as close to characteristics of the factory turbo but have enough support to see the 400rwkw target. This is a well walked path and yes other turbos are on the market that can do it but it’s a more expensive option, characteristics change, manifolds might need to be purchased and the list can go on Typically a punter will want to get to a target with the least amount of outlay and least amount of stuffing around but yes experiment and left of centre options can generate results too... many ways to skin a cat especially if you’re a king killer big wheeler cat peeler Cheers
    12 points
  3. Can we please move this to the 1200kw section?
    11 points
  4. Did some tuning today. Apparently gapping the plugs did the trick cos straight away it ran up 605awkw with no tune changes. I frigged around with fuel and boost and this and that, and managed 685awkw at 39.5psi. I brought it in gently as the trans wasn't happy to take much more than 30psi on the hit. There was some trans truncation going on at that power level on the road, so I've turned it back down to about 640awkw for now.
    10 points
  5. Hey guys, Just got a new XR6T from the mainland (I'm in Tassy) Just thought I'd share a few pics.. Good to be back in a Barra after selling my F6 RSpec a little while ago.. - 2005 MKII - 101,000kms original - Rapid V3 intercooler kit - SMB turbo back exhaust system - Walbro 255 with upgraded hoses at tank - Valve springs - FG turbo exhaust housing, ported/flapper mod with 12PSI actuator - Low temp high flow thermostat - Iridium plugs - 5x Genuine FPV "Cobra" wheels - 6 / 4 Brembos - BILSTEIN shocks all round with upgraded heavy duty lowered springs - WhiteLine adjustable swaybars with upgraded bushing and a camber caster kit - Triple gauge pod - DJR lip spoiler - BF tail lights - 344rwkw @ 15psi - tuned by PitLane 8 or so years ago and still going strong! Cheers!
    10 points
  6. After nearly 6 months, the wiring is completed and installed in the car. I cannot begin to describe my feeling of joy and relief. I really feel like crying.. I know that some will wonder why it has taken so long. The extended duration was due to my wiring guy having a full time job (At the mines), which involves being away from home. Given my familiarity with these circumstances, it has taken substantially longer than normal. However, the man is absolutely fastidious with his work and I'm sure that when you view the pictures below, you will attest to the wait being justifiable. AS you can see, we cut the harness just past the firewall and added a Motorsport connector. This will allow us to completely disconnect the wiring harness in one spot (Except coils), if engine removal is required. I wish that I'd thought of it the first time around.... We've done the same with the Thermocouple amplifiers to allow for ease of removal/installation. Note that they amplifiers are not yet installed into the engine management compartment and that they will be mounted on top of thew wideband and I/O expander modules... So, the beast has been fired, but we had a small trigger issue. It seems to be losing it's home(Can't remember exact term).. We'll put it on a scope and suss it out...
    10 points
  7. Just completed and passed a certificate 4 in “Electrical installations in hazardous areas” HV/LV/ELV and certification of existing hazardous areas with the pathway to Diploma well and truly started it was without a doubt one of the hardest assessments ever due to the risk associated with installations and having the ability to now certify others Pretty happy with myself
    10 points
  8. Got some shiny bits for the ute.
    10 points
  9. Thought I would make a thread of what I have done to my FGX so far I took a different path to alot of other people some people like it others hate it. Enjoy MOD LIST Jonny tig 1800 cooler Process west Surge with a single walbo 460 pump Plazmaman intake and battery relocation Value Springs Head studs Oil Pump Gears Cams done by Pakenham Engines Highflow turbo X-Force quad system Turbo smart external gate Tuned BY GM-F 432.3rwkw did make more we back it off to keep the Auto happy Dyno run vid Cam Vid
    9 points
  10. Thought I may as well get a start at a new thread for the 'new' ute... My little brother sends me links to random cars on gumtree and carsales semi-regularly, a few weeks back he sent one that made me look twice; built atomic motor, built auto, g2 gtx3582, wavetrac, tailshaft etc I always thought if I get another barra it would have to have a built motor and auto box, and would prefer a ute again...so all boxes ticked, nitro blue same as the old bitch. Bit of digging and found out the seller was a 3rd mate twice removed in family terms lol The usual back and forth, decided to go ahead. Picked it up a couple of weeks back, haven't taken any photos apart from these To be continued...
    9 points
  11. A small project that I've started.. Sonic tested Fg Mk1 block (Has both BA/F and FG dipstick provisions). Tunnel alignment checked, bearings fitted and clearances measured. Atomic main and head studs (14.3 mm). Factory crank that has been nitrided and stress relieved. Mains and big ends are 10/10. Rotating components balanced. Acl, 360 degree thrust main bearings and ACL big end set. Crank machined and Torrington thrust bearing installed. Atomic 998 conrods, JE ceramic coated pistons, thicker gudgeon pin An interesting find by my engine guy. Misaligned machining of the gudgeon pin oil feed (slot going left instead of right) . We modified all 6 rods. That's all that we managed to fit in today. Hopefully more progress tomorrow... Till then, stay safe.
    9 points
  12. 9 points
  13. Modding your FG: Everyday I see either on the Facebook or the Forums, How do I make X amount of KW or how do I get into 11s or 10s Or will this component get me too Y power level. So this is a basic guide on what engine mods you should be doing to get the most power efficiently. I'm not going to Definitively say this will get you 400kw or even 300kw but I will say when things start needing replacement. Before I begin a few things: All statements and information contained within may or may not be up to date and all opinions are solely my own and not those of the forum administrators/moderators/advertisers. There isn't actually a one size fits all guide to mods. Everyone wants something different in their cars and every mod you do will be a compromise in Performance, Economy, Cost, Noise, Functionality, Etc. Future Proofing your mods is incredibly important. Do it once, Do it properly. I've learned this the hard way. The most important performance Mod you can do is select a good tuner, Just because you've seen a video on youtube of them tuning a high HP car or they sell flash tuner and injector packages on Ebay doesn't necessarily mean they know what they are doing. Do your Research. New products are always coming out onto the market just because I haven't listed them here doesn't mean they aren't any good, Once again do your research and learn if the product is right for you. Lastly, I'm no mechanic or tuner. Im just an enthusiast with a love for the Barra and have spent hours upon hours researching and learning about these beautiful machines and if I can help anyone along the way then it'll be well worth it. Stage 0 Start off with doing a full service. A good quality Engine oil, Oil Filter, Air filter, Fuel Filter, Spark plugs (pregapped to tuner specifications) and Coils if required. Check all your other fluids and service accordingly. If fitted with a ZF it is also advisable to flush and service the ZF if around the 100xxx kms as this will extend the life of the gearbox and to prepare it for modifications. **Please note that the factory ZF heat exchanger is very prone to failure and should be replaced as soon as possible, Think of it like an insurance policy that's going to significantly reduce the chance of gearbox failure. Most common is the PWR heat exchanger. These are usually preferred because the ZF likes to be at a certain operating temperature which the heat exchanger can do more efficiently. Straight air to Transmission fluid coolers also work well and when fitted with a functioning thermostat and fan do the job nicely and totally eliminate the risk of the ZF Milkshake. Factory ZF Heat Exchanger -> Aftermarket Air to Fluid Cooler-> PWR Heat Exchanger fitted --> If fitted with a TR6060 this is also a great time to refresh the trans fluid and flush and bleed the clutch system. Stage 1 Flash Tuner Most places tune with SCT and this requires a handheld flash tuner. If your workshop tunes with SCT you must buy one as its what actually writes the files to the ecu from the tuner. Some tuners use software like HP Tuners which doesn't require a flash tuner which can save on the total cost. SCT currently has more parameters however HP is becoming increasingly popular and more parameters will becoming available has time progresses. Neither is better than the other, Just different ways of tuning. Fuel Injectors These are the first bottle neck in the pursuit of power, They are a 440cc unit and typically run out of flow in the 275rwkw region. Once again some have seen more with them others have found they run out before this so If your going to be modding this is a good place to start. The two main aftermarket options for the 6T are Injector Dynamics and KPM 1000cc injectors. Both brands of injectors have excellent idling and flow characteristics and have seen 450rwkw on E85 in several cars. There are many other options available like 60lb Dekkas and 80lb Siemens however these injectors are outdated. They can be used but not recommended especially if your planning on going E85 or 400+kw. Intercooling (Johnny Tig vs PW Stepped) The factory intercooler may have seen a power run of 300rwkw but it wont be able to do it again. The factory intercooler heat soaks quiet badly. Yes including the F6 one. The factory piping also has a tendency to leak or burst when boost is raised from factory pressures so it needs to be replaced. The Process west stage 1 cooler, Plaz 800hp and HDI kit are all good for 300+ and "Bolt On" but as I said above it's always a good idea to future proof as all will begin to struggle especially in the summer months with heat soak. The Process west Stage 3, Plaz 1800hp and The big Johnny Tig kit will outlast your wallet when it comes to how much power these units can handle. Do it once, Do it properly comes to mind again. I'll go into the differences briefly: Bar & Plate (Heavier, Holds more heat but sturdier) Vs Tube & Fin (Lighter, Better heat transfer but easier to damage) Black (Removes heat better when static) Vs Polished (Removes heat better while in motion) Process West use Bar & Plate while Plazmaman and Johnny Tig Use Tube & Fin Exhaust The standard FG Turbo exhaust is 3 inch the whole way. The first restriction is the Catalytic Converter. Venom make a widely used "Bolt on" cat which can go into 300s with correct supporting mods and tune however as we increase power demand the rest of standard exhaust becomes the restriction starting with the dump pipe. Xforce make a 4inch dump and cat that can "Bolt up" to the factory cat back Is an improvement however this will really begin to increase back pressure and cause a restriction the higher you go. A full system is not that much more expensive than a Dump and Cat which is why most people go down that route. Either 4inch dump and cat into a 3 1/2 inch Cat back or 4inch all the way are both popular choices and both have seen into the 450rwkw plus territory without too many dramas. Xforce, Nizpro or Custom seem to be the way most people go. People have had some issues with fitment with both brands mentioned so an Exhaust shop is highly recommended or have the appropriate tools/machinery. Stage 1 Final Thoughts So if you get a good Exhaust, Injectors, Intercooler and Piping and a good tune it has been shown to go 300rwkw and 11 second 1/4 mile times have been achieved. On an F6 this is even easier with the upgraded turbo. This is a good place to start and getting to learn how to drive these things. Once you get started its hard to stop so with that in mind. Beyond Stage 1 After those first basic mods it becomes all about preference and what you really want from your Barra but keep in mind you always need the correct supporting mods Ie if you buy a Huge turbo you want get any power out of it if you don't upgrade your fuel pumps to suit. So with that in mind... Fuel Delivery The Fuel pump on the Fg is good for around Mid 300rwkw on 98, Some have seen (My car personally) 350 rwkw on E85. But some have failed at much much less so its always a good insurance policy to change them out anyway. The most common kit is the walbro 460. Relatively cost effective, Suits E85 and can go 400rwkw+ on E85. If your wanting even greater flow KPM and AI do Twin intank fuel pumps with either twin 300lph or twin walbro 460s both E85 compatible and can go into the 500rwkw mark. These systems are both still relatively new to the market and have been some issues with fuel lines around the pump failing with E85 however reports of these failing haven't been heard of for a while know. External surge tanks have also been used and are also good for supplying 500rwkw cars utilising Walbro 460s, Bosch 044s etc and have been proven fairly reliable. However they can be very noisy, Relatively complicated and have legality issues as externally mounted fuel systems can be illegal depending on where you live. One final consideration is the Bosch 044 is not rated for continuous E85 usage where as the Walbro and KPM is. The fg Fuel rail has been used to 450rwkw plus. If planning on going 500rwkw a Fuel rail upgrade will be required. However the factory rail will suffice for most applications Intake The Fg intake system is fairly unrestrictive compared to the BA/F but as you climb closer and closer to the 400rwkw bracket it becomes a restriction. An intake muffler delete adds extra sound however it hasn't been proven to add power. Cutting a hole in the factory air box has been done with moderate amounts of success and has been used on a car with 400rwkw. Cold Air Intakes like Herrod and KPM do look nice and add some extra sound haven't been proven to be big power adders either. The main restriction in the intake is the factory crossover itself. Removing that with a turbo side intake and battery relocation kit allows the engine to breath alot easier but be warned a turbo side is incredibly loud compared to the standard setup. Lots and lots of turbo noise. One thing to consider with Turbo side intakes is to try and stay with the maker of the intercooler kit as Process West intercooling piping may not line up with a Plazmaman turbo side or visa versa. The Intake Plenum in the fg is far better designed than the BA/F and has gone 450rwkw+ with ease however is going beyond 500 the plenum can be upgraded with most people opting for custom plenums. Turbo Upgrades This will probably be the most political topic on here but we will start with the very basics Here is the specs on the FG XR6-T T04S/GT35R: Compressor cover: .50 A/R. Compressor wheel: T04S/T04B. Inducer 53mm, Major 76mm. 7+7 Bladed Cast wheel. Turbine Wheel: GT35R. Major 68mm, Exducer 62mm. Turbine housing: GT35R. 1.06 A/R Here is the specs on the FG F6 GT35R: Compressor Cover: .50 A/R Compressor Wheel: GT35R. Inducer 61.4mm, Major 82.0mm 6+6 Bladed Cast wheel. Turbine Wheel: GT35R. Major 68mm, Exducer 62mm. Turbine Housing: GT35R. 1.06 A/R So as you can see the Standard FG turbos cold side is smaller than the f6 but the hot side is the same. However as you do your upgrades proper boost control will be necessary. Totally unmodified FG turbos have gone into the 350rwkw however to push any higher than that or boost issues are occuring modifications may need to be done such as actuator upgrades, Porting of the waastegate and bigger flappers fitted. The standard FG runs out of puff roughly at around 320rwkw on petrol and 360rwkw on E85. The f6 Turbo begins to run out at around 370rwkw on 98 and 410 on E85 with correct supporting mods. There are plenty of "bolt on" options for turbo upgrades for the Barra and here are just a few. Upgrading the cold side. GTX3576r, GTX3582r And GTX3584r complete cold sides can be bought and fitted to either turbos above. These turbos mimic the specs as those turbos. This is a relatively cheap alternative compared to a brand new outright turbo. Places on ebay like mamba or kinugawa have been used with success by forum members but professionally fitting/balancing is recommended. GTX3576R: Ridiculous spool, Has seen mid 400rwkws on E85. This is the turbo for someone whom loves the standard turbos 'punch' GTX3582R: A fair bit laggier than the standard FG turbo but can get mid to high 400rwkws out of it. Was the go to turbo but becoming outdated GTX3584R: Similar to the GTX3582R however by Mamba not Garrett and has a T04Z 11 Blade billet wheeled cold side PTE6235: Spools a little later than the GTX3576R but has been getting more power than the gtx3582R PTE6466: New kid on the block, Spools a little later than the 6235 but has been into the 500rwkw zone. Also water lines need blocking MTA750: Similar to the GTX3582r MTA900: Bigger than the MTA750 so a fair bit laggier however has run into the 9s There are plenty more T3 footed turbos not mentioned and countless others available if going aftermarket exhaust manifolds. The Borg Warner EFR series turbos get a notable mention however the people who use them are fairly secretive on their setups and are very expensive. Valve Springs The standard FG valve springs are very hit and miss some lasting in the 350rwkw + stage and some needing to be changed straight away. Valve springs themselves don't add power but they are necessary if you begin to get valve float Speak to your tuner and find out what they recommend. Final Thoughts With any modifications your going to cause stress on the drive line. The ZFs aren't happy above 350rwkw and clutches in the tr6060s start to slip at that level as well. Don't Forget too you'll need to be able to stop so invest in a decent set of pads, discs and lines and that'll make your trips much safer. To all of you who made it this far thanks for reading Happy modding and leave any questions/comments below.
    9 points
  14. Oi let's get all social media about it... If this post gets 5000 likes, I'll fit a gen 2 gtx35r to my territory this week and run 18psi through it. Since we're here in fordville I'll settle for 5 likes or a decent burrito recipe. K go.
    9 points
  15. That last crazy lap I got within 0.2 seconds of my lap 2 PB despite the slow start and skids. I think I can shave a second and a half off if I string it all together with grip the whole time, maybe 2 if it's a really clean lines lap. I'm hoping for some cool footage and action pics from the media. You can see a drone hanging around a chicane in one section, Brad Frost my mate from here and prior Racewars events was part of the media team, had a GoPro and reckoned he got some good footage of me absolutely hooking too, so fingers crossed! Bonus bits Rain setting in after my last lap - not everyone got to do 4 runs! The venerable BARRA. It's stock, officer. Start line antics Racewars Sprint video from FB Simon's incredible machine and skillset on show (he came second by less than a tenth and only get 3 runs not 4 due to rain) Metal fingers while navigating a chicane one handed at 82km/h - pro skillz
    9 points
  16. Thought I'd share my new ride. Finally managed to pick her up after a long time looking. A huge thanks to the fordxr6turbo.com forums some great information on what to look out for! 2012 - Build 504 - Manual
    9 points
  17. Well have good news. Just worked with IMS and it is all working as expected. Just a few clean ups but there is now Flex Fuel in the Falcon One thing to fix is Stoich recalc but I was expected that could be a issue to resolve. I will do that and the WOT gear change over the weekend.
    9 points
  18. Did some yesterday and some this arvo. Pulled out the airbox, intake manifold, surge tank and a few more things. Put better stuff in.
    9 points
  19. Got the ute back just before Christmas. Sounds great, drives pretty well, but due to the ute having other issues it didn't get a power tune done. Had an accelerator issue causing it to cut power at approx 75% throttle and throw an etc code. Got it sorted now ready for a proper tune towards the end of January. Joe got a decent video of it idling on the dyno before I picked it up. https://www.facebook.com/cmssydney/videos/1772952946056592/ Its not really noticeable in the video but the ute has got a fair bit of shake going on from the cams, certainly turns a few heads at the traffic lights. Took it for a few runs through Mac pass and Jamberoo mountain road whilst I was down south for the break. Its definitely best handling falcon I've been in that for sure, doesn't have an issue with under or over steer with the tyres on it and the heavier coils in it work really well.
    9 points
  20. Still havevto make a console for the shifter
    9 points
  21. Hi guys, back in a new for me. Fg F6, I sold my last fg xr6t mk 11. As I wanted to concentrate a little more on my rx3 project. And drove a diesel navara around for a year as my sorta daily, as I have a company vehicle. But missed the big barra rush. So here is the new kinda daily. Fg F6 bought with a few mods already done,had kings springs and bilsteins fitted,walbro 460,hard pipe kit,xforce stainless 4''dump pipe,xforce cat and an autotech 98 tune.Ive replace the front ssl kings springs for sl kings springs.And started collecting a few bits and pieces so I could get CMS to give the car a decent tune. It came with 318rwkws from autotech at Granville,the tune I thought was average and the zf tune was horrible. So first mod I did was install a large trans cooler with a fan. And take the car off to CMS to service and flush the gearbox for me with liquid moly synthetic fluid and genuine zf filters and gaskets.And bin the stock ford zf cooler.Next I fitted a pw stage 2 cooler which fitted the pipes already fitted to the car, plaz 4'' turbo side airbox and battery relocation kit,3.5'' catback xforce exhaust mated to the 4'' dump and cat,kpm e85 10 micron fuel filter and kpm modified bosch fuel reg,and lastly I fitted some xspurt 1000cc injs and Joe from CMS loaded a tune into my sct device so I could get the car from home to his shop with the 1000cc injs. So next off I dropped the car off to CMS and they fitted new valve springs with new retainers and Joe tuned the car for 98,e85 and the zf tune. Still with the stock f6 turbo,it made 385rwkws on 98 and 410rwks on e85,with the michellin sport cup 2 s spinning a bit on the dyno.Done with a peak on 17/18psi on both fuels. And the zf is now great to drive again. Firm but nice. Future mods would be a built tailshaft,and a more extensive fuel pump setup.And maybe a 66mm billet wheel for the f6 turbo. Once again,a big thanks to the CMS crew. Great work.
    9 points
  22. Got the Ute finished today. Finished up all the wiring. Both the 044 and the walbro intank now have there own relays triggered from the stock pump wiring (inertia/roll-over switch will shut pumps off still). Going to put a cover over the relays eventually by won't really matter once the hardlid goes on. Gave it a much needed wash. Had 1 minor f*ck up. I was wondering why the Ute wasnt idling and 044 was making bulk noise and stuttering. After much confusion I ended up having the feed/return lines back to front on the chassis rails. So swapped em round and hooked it all back up and it ran perfect. Deleted the stock filter so now it just has the earls one in the tray. Used a male and a female 5/16th hardline adaptor. And most importantly took it for a spin! Been atleast a month since its seen boost. The shocks are much nicer now softened up. The swaybar makes a noticeable different, feels much more positive. Tramp rods work mint. No binding noises. No skids yet but gave it a stab in second and it just lit them up with no tramp what so ever. Beer time[emoji482]
    9 points
  23. Just a wee bit of poke....... Fronts will be right once rolled and camber is sorted. The rear rims sit flush with the guard but the pirrellis are pretty wide and I don't want to have the stretched look. I'll probably sort a b series axle to fix that, cant see the guards pumping out that much.
    9 points
  24. Having just serviced my ZF transmission and installed an air-to-oil transmission cooler with a fan, the following is a write up of how I approached it.Some of information out there was very scattered or hard to find, so I thought a full write up might help anyone else doing this. This should bring together the whole job of adding a cooler to replace the factory heat exchanger, adding a fan with a thermostatic switch to activate (plus a manual override), flushing the ZF, changing the filter and pan gasket and replacing the mechatronic sleeve. This was a first for me, so if there are things I could have done differently, feel free to point them out so someone else can avoid a mistake or save some time! While it is a reasonable size job, I don’t feel like anything was especially difficult.If you are confident with general servicing and basic wiring, you shouldn’t have any problems!Of course though it is your transmission which is expensive if you stuff it up! I pre-prepared as much of the wiring as I could so that it was already to go when I installed the cooler.You can of course not worry about the fan, as some people do, which significantly reduces this job.In my view, there is not heaps of airflow inside the bumper and while you are stationery, your airflow is zero.I figure if you are going to the effort, you may as well go the whole box and dice.I’ve noticed that the temps stabilise nicely once the fan kicks in, so I think your box will definitely run cooler with a fan installed which should help longevity. My car is a 2010 FG XR6 Turbo, but the principles will be the same for many other cars: -N/A you could mount in front of the air-con condenser and would have less need for a fan due to better airflow -BA/non-ZF BF with a BTR transmission – similar deal, but you are removing existing lines from the radiator, not the ZF’s heat exchanger. A big thank you to those of you who gave me advice and responses to various questions along the way!Also to a couple of BMW videos on YouTube that helped me out with the mechatronic sleeve. Parts list The following is the list of parts I used: Cooler – DC698 Davies Craig transmission cooler and fan kit (you can also get a slightly bigger cooler than this which would also fit but may be harder to fit the fan to). A length of aluminium bar (2x20mm.About 600mm will be plenty) to make cooler mounting brackets. 3/8” hose – 2x 2m lengths will do it.Some comes in the kit, but not enough. Hose clamps – I used EFI ones that don’t cut into the hose as much.4x clamps if you are not fitting a temp switch on the fan, 6x clamps if you are (some will come in the kit if you are using one, but I bought better ones). 1x relay (included in above kit if you go that route) 1x inline fuse (I got the mini blade type so that it was the same type as the car’s fuse box) 1x Narva add-a-circuit to add ignition power (needs to be micro-blade type to suit Falcon fusebox) – saves hacking into the factory wiring Some electrical wire Crimp-on spade connectors Stainless bolts, nylock buts and washers and a couple of self-tappers for attaching the cooler to the brackets you will make up. Raceworks ZF transmission adaptor (pack of 2) (RWF-922-ZF-08BK)– Aeroflow, Speedflow, Proflow all do these as well.(You need the ones for the ZF transmission, not the Ford 6R variant – outside diameter of the ZF fitting is 16.4mm) Aeroflow -8 AN to 3/8” barb right angle adaptors (x2) (AF413-08-06BLK) – again lots of equivalents in various brands ZF steel pan with drain plug (you can of course re-use your existing steel pan.I think the plastic pans are single use as the filter is integral) ZF pan gasket ZF filter ZF mechatronic sleeve 20L drum of Gulf Western Syn-TS (formerly SynTrans) If you want to have a thermo switch to kick the fan in: Derale thermostatic switch (13021) (gets plumbed inline to one of your new transmission lines, includes 3/8 barb adaptors) LED light (optional, but I like knowing when the fan has been triggered) Switch with an LED indicator if you want a manual override on the fan Scrivets for refitting bumper and shrouds afterwards Special tools Assuming you have all of the basic sockets, pliers, etc. the following will make your life easier: Decent wire crimpers and strippers Hose cutting pliers (these are cheap and do a much better job than stuffing around with pliers or a knife) A pump for filling the transmission – the type that fits a 20L drum works perfectly. OBD2 Bluetooth tool and Torque app to read transmission temperature when getting the level right. Part one – physical cooler and fan installation I installed the cooler in the space in front of the driver’s side front wheel, behind the horns. Place the car on ramps or stands (don’t tip it off and destroy your bumper like I did – goodbye savings from doing this job myself, but hello pristine new bar with no existing scuffs) Remove the front bar – lots of info out there on how to do this.But briefly: -Remove tray from underneath front bumper -Remove scrivets from intake, radiator cover, etc. and remove intake snorkel and grille -Remove scrivets inside both front wheel arches that connect to the bumper so that you can access bumper bolts (you can leave the lower wind defector section of the guard liner in place and these will just stay with the front bar when you remove it Remove two bolts (10mm) holding bumper in place behind grille Remove 2x bolts (10mm) each side at top corner of bumper (behind guard liners) Carefully pull each corner outwards from the bumper mounts and then pull bumper forward and remove from car.Have a sheet or something ready to carefully place it on, unless like me you had already murdered the bar and are fitting a new one. Assemble your cooler/fan assembly depending on the kit/instructions you have.I also attached the relay to the fan at this point You need to make up brackets to mount the cooler securely, but still have some flex.You don’t want to crack a cooler!I used the bolt under the bumper mounting bracket as my main bracket, and a right angle bracket to the chassis to stabilise it as per the picture. I made my main bracket by: -Drill some holes in the aluminium bar to suit the mounting holes on your cooler. -Use a vice and a shifter to put a 90 degree twist in the bar -Bolt the cooler/fan assembly to the aluminium bar -Measure the length the bar needs to be by holding it (with cooler attached) up next to the car, then cut the bar with an angle grinder or hack saw.Round off the top corner to make it sit nicely under the bumper mount and give you some rotation for adjustment.Make sure you allow for the cooler to clear the bumper when installed. Pics of main bracket: I made my secondary bracket by: -Bolting the cooler in place using the main bracket -Measuring the approx. size I needed for the secondary bracket -Cut and bend aluminium bar to suit. -Drill a hole in each end of the bracket -Bolt the bracket to the cooler, position the whole setup how you want it and use a centre punch to mark the chassis -Unbolt the main bracket and remove the whole assembly and then drill a hole (where you centre-punched) to suit your self-tapping screw -Re-install and add your self-tapping screw. Pics of secondary bracket: Note I had to fiddle around with the orientation of the horns a bit as they were hitting the fan shroud. Now is a good time to test fit your bumper and make any adjustments to your brackets if needed This is the whole mounting setup off the car: And installed in the car: Now route your new cooler lines: -Connect to your cooler, remembering to thread a hose clamp on to each hose first, then tighten down securely -I routed my hoses along the front K-frame cross-member (just cable-tied to the wiring loom running there – I will go back later and install p-clamps properly) making sure you are clear of the accessories belt and pulleys. If between the cooler and the K-frame your line is rubbing on any panels, protect by cutting open a small piece of hose and sticking/gluing to the panel to prevent gradual damage to your line that might cause an eventual leak, or using a grommet in the same way I have: (I’m planning to go back and check this later to make sure it all stayed in place OK) -Then go along the chassis rail under the inlet manifold towards the transmission -Cut one hose near your transmission and add in your thermo switch with hose clamps, then a new piece of hose long enough to reach the cooler ports on the transmission Thermo switch plumbed in (with wiring which I’ll cover next): -The other hose can just continue to the same location, but doesn’t need anything mounted inline. Secure the hose up out of the way and tape the hose ends if you aren’t finishing the job here – your car is still driveable but you have done the hard bit! Part two – wiring I won’t go into full detail here, as everyone likes to do this differently.But basically what I did was: Used the add-a-circuit in the fuse box to add a new circuit off an existing circuit that powers on with accessories.From there I split into two circuits: -One wire headed off to a switch (if your switch has an indicator light you can ground back to the grounding point behind the fuse box) to be used for the manual override.I mounted my switch in the little pop-out panel in the steering column that is used for the adjustable pedals option.From the switch, head the wire through the firewall. -One wire headed to an LED (I mounted mine with my aftermarket gauges) and then on through the firewall.This wire will be for the thermo switch and the LED will tell you when the thermos switch has kicked in. My wiring was a bit more complex than that, as I did it as part of a larger boost, wideband and oil pressure gauge install.I pinned up a Deutsch connector just inside the firewall to take all of this wiring neatly through the firewall. The rubber grommet behind the carpet in the passenger footwell is a great place to take the wiring through.It is away from the exhaust and conveniently pops out near your transmission.Just cut or drill a small hole in the rubber plug to feed your wiring through.A touch of Innox spray or similar will help feed the wires through (especially if you are feeding a rubber hose through for a boost gauge). Run your thermo switch wire to the thermo switch (you will eventually plumb this into your transmission line) and then from the thermo switch it can be soldered or crimped to your wire coming from your manual switch.You now have two switches (manual and thermos) wired in parallel and can run a single wire through to your fan location (just run the wire along the transmission lines you have added).Crimp on a spade connector and connect to the trigger terminal on your relay (or your kit may have a relay connector that you need to join to). Here’s my relay mounted on the cooler: Run power and ground from your battery to your relay (include an inline fuse on the power), ground from battery to your fan (can share with the relay’s ground) and power from your relay to your fan. At this point, it is not a bad idea to get out a multimeter or test light and confirm everything is working eg your LED, your manual switch, etc. I’ll draw up a basic wiring diagram of all this and add soon. Part 3 – hooking up the cooler and de-commissioning the old heat exchanger The existing cooler lines are held in place on the transmission by a bracket with a 10mm bolt.Remove this and the lines just pull straight out of the transmission.Have a drain pan ready for whatever spills out.Congratulations, you are now officially milkshake-proof! On the heat exchanger end of the lines, the fittings are push lock.You need to push them further on to the ports on the heat exchanger, squeeze the tabs on the side in, and pull off.A set of multi-grips does this nicely.If you get stuck there is nothing wrong with being rough or cutting them – it is all going in the bin anyway. First line removed from heat exchanger: You can just leave the coolant lines as is, attached to the heat exchanger, if you don’t want to lose a bunch of coolant right now.Come back later with a 1/2" male-to-male barbed fitting to connect the two coolant hoses together.I left my heat exchanger coolant lines in place as my coolant is brand new – next time I have a need to open up the cooling system I’ll sort this out and have the fitting ready to go. There are three bolts holding the heat exchanger to the engine block (you can see the lower one in the pic above).If you have disconnected your coolant lines, remove the bolts and remove the heat exchanger.DON’T sell it on Gumtree – put it in the bin where it belongs! If you are leaving you coolant lines intact for now, still remove these bolts so you can tip the heat exchanger and drain the transmission fluid out of the bottom of the heat exchanger.You don’t want this coming out the ports and painting the underneath of your car every time you turn right for the next couple of weeks.Once you have tipped out as much fluid as you can, replace the bolts. Now connect your transmission to the new lines you ran earlier. -Assemble each ZF adaptor to the -8 to barbed right angle adaptor (tighten with two spanners to ensure no leaks) -Thread a clamp onto each line -Fit the hose to each barbed fitting and tighten the clamps -Push each line into the transmission ports.The lower port it the outlet from the transmission, so this should be the line with the thermos switch installed. -Re-fit the bracket and 10mm bolt you removed when uninstalling the factory lines New fittings and lines installed into box, with bracket re-attached: -Do any tidy up of lines with cable ties or P-clamps to keep everything tidy and safe from getting hit or caught under the car Part 4 – service the transmission- flush, filter, mechatronic sleeve, gasket Now that you have a new cooler with new lines, you are going to need to at least top up your fluid due to the longer lines and increased cooler capacity.Makes sense to do a full service then and replace all of the consumable stuff at once.Your box will last longer if you do this – I think the only reason you wouldn’t do this is if you had a very recent flush on your transmission) I went with: -New fluid – 20L drum so I could do a full flush -New filter, of course -New steel pan with a drain plug and new gasket – not essential (as I already had a steel pan) but well worth it - not just for this job but if you are planning to service the trans periodically.Once you remove the existing pan once you will understand why. -New mechatronic sleeve – the o-rings on these are prone to leaking and you need to remove the pan to replace the sleeve, so do it now. First step is to remove the fill plug on the driver’s side of the transmission, towards the back.Mine was a T50 although it sounds like some might be 8mm internal hex (Allen).Mine was ridiculously tight (ended up with a steel pipe over the handle of a breaker bar sticking out the front of the car) so make sure you can loosen this before you go dumping your transmission oil. Prepare the area by putting down a tarp and some cardboard and even have a couple of old towels on hand.It can get messy! Remove the bolts from the pan and lower the pan, tipping the fluid into a drain pan.I removed a bunch of bolts and left the corners in place, then gradually undid these and then removed the front ones so I could tip as much fluid out the front as possible.Even so, there will still be quite a bit in there when you remove the last of the bolts. (Note I think the plastic pans have an integrated filter, so you might need a whole new pan assembly anyway – I haven’t done this on any other cars so I don’t know for sure.) Once the pan is out of the way you will see the filter on the bottom of the transmission.Pull this out too.You might find the seal on the filter gets left behind – remove this from the transmission too using a small screwdriver or a pick, being careful not to scratch the metal surface. The orange seal left behind that needs removing: Use a blade to scrape any left over gasket off the bottom of the transmission. Now for the mechatronic sleeve: -The wiring connector is at the back of the transmission on the driver’s side.Push the locking tab up to release the wiring connector and pull it out of the way. Connector removed: -The sleeve the connector fitted into is what you are replacing.This is locked into place by the white locking mechanism INSIDE the transmission.I found this out on a YouTube video for a BMW ZF installation – if you didn’t know about the lock and just forced the sleeve, you could end up having a very bad day. Locking tab to pull downwards: -As you have already removed the pan, pull this lock downwards to release the sleeve -The sleeve slides out – it doesn’t unscrew.Grab it with multi-grips if it is stubborn and gently wriggle backwards. -Lubricate the o-rings on your new sleeve with Innox spray or a bit of fresh trans fluid to make the sleeve easier to fit. -Push the sleeve into place by hand as far as it will go.You can see that there is a cut-out on the sleeve which dictates the orientation – this points downward. -Close the locking mechanism by pushing upwards.You may need to apply some pressure to the sleeve (pushing it towards the front of the vehicle) while simultaneously closing the lock.You can do this with a pry bar with a big flat blade, or use a breaker bar against a small block of wood (slide the bar in above the trans cross-member). Applying pry bar to sleeve: -Refit the wiring connector and pull the locking tab back down.Again, tabs and cut-outs mean the connector can only go in a certain way.Be gentle so you don’t wreck anything. You can now install the new filter, gasket and pan (NOTE – I did a new gasket and filter here and then new again for the final fill.You could just re-use the old stuff here and then go new for the final fill.) -Push the filter into place – push firmly so that it goes all the way home New filter installed: -Place the gasket over the pan, lift the pan into position and add bolts to each corner by hand. -Add all remaining bolts by hand, making sure each bolt goes through the gasket and the gasket remains neatly in place without being folder or wrinkled. -For tightening, you want to make sure you don’t warp the pan as it may leak.I think there is a recommended order, but if you alternate side to side and work your way from the middle to the ends, and just tighten a bit at a time before repeating the process, you should be fine. -The bolts need to be tight enough to prevent leaking but certainly not over-tightened.Stripping the threads in your transmission would also be a bad day. You are now ready to fill your transmission and start flushing. -Double check that your drain plug is in place, your pan is securely fitted and your new transmission lines well-secured. -Remove the fill plug on the side which you loosened at the start of this part.Use a pump, and fill until fluid start to run out of the fill hole.(I didn’t worry about ensuring the car was completely level front-to-back at this point – you are only flushing at this stage.) -Loosely replace the fill plug -Start the engine, lift the revs to about 1200 RPM for a few seconds, then switch off.This should pump oil through your transmission and fill up your new cooler and lines. -Remove the fill plug and top up your transmission to the fill hole again – it may take quite a bit.Replace the fill plug. -Start the engine and with your foot on the brake, place the car into reverse, neutral, drive, etc. pausing for a few seconds in each.Do this cycle a couple of times. -In a perfect world (I.e. one with a hoist) you’d run the car up to speed and let the convertor lock, etc.Safety first though and I’m not doing that on axle stands thanks very much. Personally I don’t think it is a major problem to be near enough is good enough here. -Undo your drain and fill plugs, draining the fluid.Due to the amount of fluid held in the convertor, it will now be around a 50/50 mix of old and new fluid. -Repeat the fill, start, cycle through the gears, drain process another couple of times until the fluid you are draining looks like nice, fresh fluid – this indicates you have gotten rid of the vast majority of the old stuff. -I actually stopped here after two refills due to time and drove the car for a week before doing the third and then final dump and fill.This certainly meant all of the fluid in the convertor etc was mixed through! You can now undertake the final fill, which needs to be a bit more specific: -Ensure the transmission is level.I used a spirit level on the pan to confirm.My front wheels were on ramps, so I just jacked under the K-frame a touch to bring the trans to level – extending the suspension slightly while still having the wheels on the ramps (I have a bit of a slope on the driveway) -You need to check the level with the transmission at or very close to 35 degrees C.A heat gun or using the Torque app with a OBDII tool will do this.My Max Ellery manual says ‘transmission case should feel warm to the touch but not fully warmed up’ – pretty approximate but might do if you have no other option! (In the Torque app go to Settings, Manage custom PIDs, menu, Add a Predefined set, Ford.This will add a group of Ford-specific PIDs.You can now add a display using the [FORD] Transmission Fluid Temp option.There are several there, but when adding a display pick [FORD] Transmission Fluid Temp Method 2 for current temp in Celsius.) -With the car running and the fluid at 35 degrees, let the engine run and pump fluid in until fluid dribbles out the fill hole.Re-fit the fill plug. At this point you are done – clean around the drain, fill hole, etc., check everything for leaks and tighten as necessary.Refit your bumper, etc.Lower to the ground and go for a test drive.Go and get an actual chocolate milkshake rather than one made in your overflow bottle. After a week or so, get under the car again and check your connections for leaks. My final setup looks like this: From underneath to give you an idea of fitment inside bar:
    8 points
  25. So yerp pulled the 6r80 down today. Nothing looks too rooted in it, not that I'm a seasoned trans builder or anything. All of the steels are in good condition and all of the shafts/gears etc look and feel alright too. I'll get to measuring later in the week to confirm stuff. The car that the trans came out of had a torque converter failure and had put some metal into the trans which is why I only paid $50 for it. I pulled the trans pump apart to have a look, as that will be where the metal starts it's journey into the trans. Sure enough the small inner gear has some damage and the pump cover has some damage too. It's not so farked that it wouldn't work at all but I'd rather do things more proplyer so will address it. I reckon I'll swap out the stator shaft from the 6r80 into one of the zf pumps and use that, otherwise I can get a 6r80 pump for about $500, or there might be something else I can do with parts/gear swapping etc. The bushes in it need replacing so I'll go for a bronze bush kit, along with a couple of other bits to recon the zf valve body, replace needle roller bearings as one had fallen apart, and whatever else needs replacing apart from seals, as they will all get done anyway. So yeh that's about it really. Will drop off the input shaft and converter on Wednesday and see how we go from there. I was thinking about cryo treating the output shaft too just for more peace of mind. I'm leaning toward keeping the stock converter now as it has a better lockup than a single disc gm converter but I'll see what the trans guy reckons, as it might not be up to the power level I'm going to throw at it. Haha one part of me wants to just buy a built trans but I'll have a crack at it myself first and if I fark it up, I'll reevaluate then.
    8 points
  26. Here's the graph. I had to run it in 3rd to get a number as I was hitting a speed limiter in 4th and was too tardled to work out how to remove it. I disabled it in the vid block, changed it in the tune as well and zeroed out the ETC cut. Still didn't work but oh well. Also don't have the boost control dialled in so it's a bit wavy. Today was a fuel/sd map tuning day
    8 points
  27. ok here we go, finally got a before and after of the new kitchen all done.
    8 points
  28. Got to the dyno today and it went pretty much as I expected. The exhaust showed to be a huge restriction but we all knew that anyway. The first run right off the bat showed 367awkw on 16psi and after a bit of fiddling it went 427awkw at 21psi. The wgdc was at 85% and briefly flicked to 100% a couple of times so didn't bother pushing it further. So yerp, zorst is needed and possibly a stiffer actuator but overall I'm pretty happy for now. Haha it's quite quick at 21psi but I reckon it'll get turned down until I do the zorst. Happy days
    8 points
  29. So bit bored decided I could write a thread on the build of my POS I bought this car in 2012 when I was 16 as my first car and its just got out of control since haha. I'll do a list of current specs plus pevious build specs. and probably copy most of the build from other forums.. Current pb is a 10.94@132 manual Specs 1996 Ef Xr6 Motor -Stock ef bottom end with ~300000km no rod bolts or new ring/bearing I popped one cap off to check bearings then put it back on because the motor had a blocked pickup and took 30secs to build oil pressure in the car I pulled it from haha -AU falcon head ported by me with pep-pro stainless valves seats all re cut by my mate at his machine shop. -Stock Au mls gasket with arp studs holding it down -Surecam custom hydraulic cam used the closest master profile he had to the specs I was looking for..basically about 220@50 540"lift its pretty angry for a baby cam... -Crow valve springs with stock Au rockers and lifters Intake and fuel system -Tunnel vision intake manifold -Fg fly by wire throttle body -2200cc injectors -Fuel cell in the boot, 100 micron filter>1400hp holley dominator pump>10 micron filter> AN8 feed to and from rail> proflow fuel reg. Exhaust and turbo -Turbo manifold I built at home. steam pipe 6 into 1 collector divided into the t4 flange 40m pipe off each side of the collector merged into a 60mm gate -Turbosmart 60mm power gate (14psi spring) -2.5" screamer vented behind the front tire -Garret gt3788r .89 rear housing -4" dump straight off the turbo into the 4" exhaust with one big muffler before the diff. Engine management -Link G4+ Extreme ecu running sequential ign/inj. -Racepak iq3 dash -6x ls1 coils mounted on a bracket off the intake manifold bolts -Fuel/oil/coolant pressure sensors all fed to the ecu -Fuel/oil/coolant/air temp sensors all fed to the ecu -Ethrolle controled by the G4 with a BA pedal in the car and FG throttle body. -Boost controlled by the G4 with a 4 port solenoid -Launch control/2step with a switch, speed and time control so it doesnt come on when shifting gears. Gearbox and diff -T56 converted from a ba turbo -Direct ceramic solid centre twin plate. (3100lb of clamp now) -Final drive built 3.5" chro moly tailshaft with strange billet yoke, 1350 series unis front and back. -ATM it has 3.45 borgwarner diff with a spool standard 28 spline axles. Getting a 9" built atm with 35spline axles 3.7 gears strange nodular iron carrier with a full spool. that's about it really the whole car is built by me from fab work,engine building to tuning so stuff only gets done when I can be I <3 Bananased doing it.. Will start with this and add some more in another post.
    8 points
  30. Got some time on the dyno yesterday. Had a few minor issues that held us up a bit, but managed to get most of the 98 ron tune sorted. We pulled up tuning early last night, as we ran out of time and fuel. We managed 733 rwhp (546 kw) @ 24 psi, on 98 ron fuel. We still have more left in it as it was still loving having timing added. It just wants to keep going, with no signs of falling off, even at the 7,800 rpm limiter. Given what we have learnt so far, especially in relation to cam timing, I cannot begin to understand how some of the cars out there are making the power that they are. we used a FG cam map as a baseline, as we were led to believe that they are the best. However, we found that the factory cams tables, effectively choke the crap out of the engine. We've only just started playing in this area and realised an additional 70 hp. We only have a few hours on the dyno today, as both the tuner and I have to leave fore work. So, we're going to put some E85 in it and see what it makes. Fingers crossed for no oil on the floor.... I do have some dyno graph pics and I shall endeavour to get some uploaded tonight.
    8 points
  31. Finally did it ! Bought a Brand new Tuff Lift 4 poster 3.6T with the optional 1.7 T jacking beam, dolly wheels, extended low vehicle ramps, drip trays and jacking tray and fully Australian certified with work safe cert delivered and installed on the 21st ! nailed a end of month bargain at $5,000 flat for nearly $6,000 worth
    8 points
  32. Had a pretty productive day. @Camo86T is a bloody legend. Got the new turbo front cover and hot side pipe welded up with plazmaclamp flanges. Got home, pulled the old turbo out, the manifold, dump and all the studs. Made a mess getting the heat wrap off which pretty much crumbled. New exhaust gaskets and studs, new turbo gasket and studs, fitted the new dump studs. Fitted a new turbosmart actuator, 14 Psi spring, set the preload and bolted it up. Will bolt the dump in tomorrow and top the coolant up. Will give it a week or so before wrapping the manifold again to make sure the nuts are tight after a few heat cycles.
    8 points
  33. A teaser, of recent progress. It's 95% complete, I just have to install some micro switches for the hazard lights and the dimming switches for the dash/Icc illumination.. Then it will be permanently installed.
    8 points
  34. A week or so ago my little (19yo) brother was being a pain in the arse to middle brother. Now LB is always leaving his sh*t lying around, wallet, keys, shoes, whatever. An hour or so later MB sees LB's wallet out on a bench in the workshop and gives the licence photo a texta p3nis upgrade, bit of a giggle at the chance of a HWP officer looking at it next... Today LB did a first aid course, ID required, he hands over the licence to the trainer without looking at it.... 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
    8 points
  35. Wiped over my new all black bay [emoji16] The thing is a dust magnet!!!
    8 points
  36. Only just finished getting everything cleaned up, plugged in and setup around 9pm last night - was a pretty busy weekend! Could really do with another weekend now to recover from the weekend and to actually just sit down and enjoy the new system. With covers on: And with covers off:
    8 points
  37. Portuguese style grilled chicken from corner lunch shop at work - wayyyyyy better than any other fast food effort I've tried eg. nandos etc
    8 points
  38. Bird flew over head and shat in me coffee this morning. Füçk Missus pissed herself laughing. Cafe is licenced, went in and got a beer. Good solution I reckon.
    8 points
  39. Watching someone slide a turbo falcon correctly 5/7 Would Bang !
    8 points
  40. WIDTMYC Fri night ~9.30 Decided after a few hefty scotches with family (2yo daughter's bday party) that the sooner my rear guards were given a trim the sooner I could fit the new rims. In the driveway with a work light, masking tape, 5" grinder and brotherly/brotherly-in-law (constructive-ish) criticism...result wasn't so pretty but oh well. Mossies were getting fierce and audience had disappeared inside so host's conscience got the better of me after doing one and I went back to scotch and cake. Sat Finished the other guard, fitted all 4 rims, tightened axle U-bolts & other rear bolts, then exhaust manifold, turbo & dump pipe bolts/nuts. Stuck some masking tape strips in the rear guards - half on the guard return edge and half free inside - then took it for a drive. Felt fine, didn't feel any scraping and marks on the tape shows there seems to be enough clearance now. Sun Washed it for first time this year. Had no tyre shine left but comes up alright for a 9.5yo work hack. Am convinced the usual film of dust & grime protects the paint lol Hope all pics show up for once. Will have to get some in a different light, colour of rims doesn't show up that great in the pics.
    8 points
  41. Millennium Fairmont is gone. Replacing it is the Paw Patrol (as my eldest son calls it) Zd30 patrol. 05 St-L Has had all the NADS mods done Including a rapid chip tuned by United Fuel Injection. 3" lift with drop boxes, superior engineering panhards and steering links and Fox shocks. It's a 7 seater but had custom rear drawers installed and a pretty banging stereo. Also has a full suite of Gauges to keep an eye on things.
    8 points
  42. Let the high mount setup begin [emoji41][emoji106]
    8 points
  43. 3bar, any lower than that the spray pattern goes to sh*t
    8 points
  44. First time in a long time that I've had a chance to give it a wash. The car gets a lot of looks since this IC went in, not necessarily what I was after but it's definitely cool as hell. For anyone considering the same IC/piping kit, the standard intake won't fit at all and the Herrod intake hits the top radiator mount (as it gets shifted back to fit the IC) and will need to be modified slightly to fit correctly. Still loving this power, I've switched tunes a few times but the 335kw track tune is definitely my favorite. Has the best throttle response and torque delivery. IMS diff had is going well too, I used OE side bushes so there is no increase in NVH.
    8 points
  45. Thought I would share some photos of the new look. Just added new wheels, brakes and suspension
    8 points
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