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not as good as a 710 cap.

Spray it both ends to be sure. I usually do this every 5000km with my oil change while I wear my tin foil hat for good luck.

I bet you notice it more now you've gotta pay for it too.

That's heart breaking. Hopefully that extended warranty covers it.

What about the rocket cover? That kills me every time. I reckon hes he's got an fg puff.

Howdy all, hows things? Hope you all had a top weekend. Working 1 day less now is awesome. Wonder if a can drop another day.........lol.

I've had a different experience tuning with 95 vs 98. Granted it was with a different engine but it had a very similar compression ratio (8.4:1 iirc), slightly higher dynamic compression (180 psi) and ran a gt35r, a 0.82 rear housing and a large external gate. 3 octane points was not insignificant and allowed for 20% more timing. If you see little to no gain using 98 over 95 then I suspect your car has been tuned for 95 or runs a super safe 98 tune that pulls timing regularly when run on less than 98. This is often the case when you pay for a tune. No sensible tuner wants a car at the ragged edge. Go look at jets tuning thread to see how he felt about taking a stock motor over 500rwkw despite his ability to control knock and fuel. Yes that example is timing vs mechanical but you get the drift. Baring faulty parts a misfire at idle is caused from either; running lean, a too small/insufficient plug gap, incorrect cam timing at idle or too much ignition timing at idle. Bad fuel will cause a misfire at idle too but that seems highly unlikely in your case. Oh I almost forgot, water out of suspension can create intermittent misfires. Fwiw I could run as lean as 15:1 at idle with about 7 degrees btdc but needed 13.7:1 to run 15-20 degrees btdc without misfiring in my other car. I tune my ford to the limits of 98 and would not consider using 95 unless 98 was not available. Sorry for the novel fellas but hey, it might come in handy for someone one day.

But seriously even with a 15 c/L difference it cost less than $10 per tank. I check the price but still fill it regardless.

Haha thanks mate. I was trying to give you a gentle ribbing but it didn't work. Back to the drawing board.

Today I learned k31th has so much money he doesn't notice his fuel bill. Hey k31th lend is 20 bucks will ya. I'll pay ya back next year sometime.

Thanks puffin! I know you're fishing for a compliment too... You go alright.

Please feel free to answer all my un answered PM guys hahaha I need all the help I can get sometimes

I hope yoda is coming back after that lambasting. If you're out there @TheFordIsStrongInThisOne Listen to Ralph. He's the falcon whisperer and knows his sh*t.

6 spot breaks

That's what this thread is for - while you're Jet (or anyone else) post here, post your normal name then log off (after replying to all @JETURBO PM's)

66.9 I paid today - and felt ripped off :(

Farken spewin. Hopefully the warranty covers it. Keep us informed mate.

The owner may be willing to let you take it for a safety inspection at pedders or ultratune for a cheap general check over. Fwiw I had to drive a 130km round trip to look at my car and test drive it then did the same trip a few days later to pick it up. Imo with your budget you should inspect every car that you are able to purchase. There will be sh*t boxes and there will be a gem out there waiting for you. Obviously saving more money would be ideal but that is up to you.

Like puff said it might be ok. But more than likely will need bushes front and rear, ball joints and shocks as a minimum. If it's been looked after it's a score. For a stock car they're fairly quick. They're not crazy but they get the job done. They're no rocket ship and the power is very linear. In the BA the auto is sh*t. They bang gears for no reason. The diff will more than likely whine like a taxi. If you're not far from it take it for a run and see how it goes.

The exhaust centre midvale. They have a lot of experience with ford turbo and V8 cars. Call Nick. 92748111

For that cash you'll find heaps of sh*tboxes or half arsed modified BA's. Keep saving and look for a BF2 or a BF with a build passed 06/2006. They came with the stronger rods so if you plan on modifying it they're the safer option. In saying that if you found a mint BA MK2 manual with full service history I would snap it up. Have a read around here before you go shopping also. There is heaps of info here. If you're unsure post up the cars you're looking at and we'll give you an opinion. Welcome.

sounds like it needs a big tube of glue and silicone to fix sh1t up and then some skids to make the weak parts show themselves so then you can get your car fixed.

Sooooo the owner of the rental I'm currently in got my letter and dropped by for a chat this morning. They'd happily sell the house to me, which is cool...but now it's trying to figure out if the price range he's suggested is fair and if I want to pay that much...

Sounds epic. Was his vehicle moving in a circular motion at the time?

A bit of an update for the Rolls software. As some of you know I am the one helping Rolls in the background hunting through the assembler and finding new parameters and have just completed initial testing on a new feature for this software. I have been able to track down the independent control of the exhaust cam for the XR6 turbo and yes we have control There is a bunch of tables missing from the other products that I have found and have them in for the first release (TBA). An interesting one based on vehicle speed but currently a constant. So now the fun will begin. IH8TOADS pointed out we could do ghost cams and we have someone testing this as well. So higher overlap cams may be controllable at idle as well as removing the stuff Ford put in to reduce back pressure in the higher rev range due to the factory exhaust. I believe this is a first for us. We have been told it is not in other products.

How does it take 2 days from my parcel to go from one side of America mainland to the other, to Hawaii then sydney.... but supposedly going to take 5 days to get it from Sydney to adelaide. Da fuq

Replace your mechanic. He's a lazy carnt!

Thanks man, sorry not sure what's up with the PMs, shouldn't be full. I usually go for the firmer shock settings, the first few rallysprints I drove in I had them set to just past halfway, but it still felt very soft. I gradually upped them until I hit max. The shockworks are pretty tame compared to something like Tein. On the street I used to run them about halfway and it had a good blend of ride quality and handling. Since the barbagallo track session where I had max front and 2-3 notches down at the rear, I haven't turned them down again. With the lighter Work wheels and now with 2-piece DBA5000 rotors on (which were massively lighter than the stock Brembo rotors), I find it to be perfect on the street. The way it goes around corners with the softer setting on the rear is just spot on. I don't think I'll change it again. As for those rallysprints, I had a few close calls where I would have rolled my car or seriously damaged it, so the F6 won't be driven there again anytime soon! I bought a Clio 182 specifically for rallysprints, poured lots of money into it to get it into the right spec, but then the engine let go. I'm just gonna stick with the casual track days from now on, way more fun and less stress.

Roku ultra. Streams PLEX 10 times better than my Telstra TV