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sixfan

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  • Member For: 13y 3m 10d
  • Gender: Male

Christ! I've read we should be checking around the lug holes as well for cracks given the load we put on them by taking them on an off at the track all the time. By that's a different spot. Seen some pics of the imitation rota drifts doing that.

Edited by Bulletime
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  • Member For: 17y 3m 21d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Macksville NSW.

Jeeesus.....that's lucky you got on top of it before the worst happened.....

My car is very similar configaration to yours and I'm looking for a set of 18's that fit over 6 spot Brembos so I can fit up some semi slicks.....
Guess I know what NOT to buy now....:/

Edited by BionicXR6T
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I was shopping for track rims a while back and Koya didn't make the cut based on what I read. You're obviously pushing a heavy car very hard, but to see a wheel crack like that makes me question the quality of the cast. At least you got some warning!

I went with Enkei PF01, just under $1600 from Autotechnik, they fit over the 6/4 Brembos, fairly light weight but a strong looking spoke design. Yet to be tested though, first event is tomorrow so I'll see how they go.

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  • Member For: 15y 9m 24d
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  • Location: Sydney

Mate, that is CRAZY!

Glad you made it back to the pits safely.

Were you clipping more apexes on that particular day?

Same neg camber?

Was it downforce related?

How many extra kg does the splitter give you?

Thanks for posting this. I see a lot of Koya Drifteks at the circuit without issue.. The custom offset makes them attractive.

Wonder if David from Post #94 has had issues too. He runs Drifteks.

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My fastest run from last night's rallysprint, finished 29th outright in a field of 77, 10th in class, though partly assisted by the rain that swept in halfway through the night.

The only thing I could fault about the car was the support from the driver's seat, so that's next on the list. Otherwise I think I might be driving the ultimate all rounder!

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  • Member For: 14y 10m 17d
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Nothing out of the ordinary happen to the rim, never hit a curb or anything. I'm getting the other 3 x-rayed for cracks on Monday, Should be interesting to see the findings. I doubt it was downforce related, The splitter at best would generate about 80kg @ 200kph. The rear wing I think would around 200kg @ 200kph.

I've been looking at new wheels and there are so any options, I sort of leaning towards some Enkei NT03+M or T6S. I would love a set Of Volk ZE40 but $800 a rim is a bit much.

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  • Member For: 11y 7m 22d
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Nice one Furiousgibbon! I'd find it very hard to push on a road course.

How did the NT01 go?

If you put the seat base all the way back, then pull the waist tight using the shoulder strap, then quickly pull it the other way so it locks, then return your seat back to your normal position while holding the belt locked, this will then hold you locked very tight in the seat.

Your seat I believe is better than my XR seat.

Or you can use one of these http://www.cglock.com.au which Nelsonian told me about.

I looked into a dedicated seat but it was too hard for what I do with it. If you put a seat in and drive to the track and something was to happen and the airbags where disabled it wouldn't go down well. Then where do the belts go? Could get a removable harness bar made up to run between the belt anchor points, but like I said, was all way to expensive an exercise for what I do. Haha.

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  • Member For: 15y 9m 24d
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I recommend the CG lock as a first stage.

I used one for a year or 2 and was great for stability until wider slicks were used. Too much hanging onto the wheel then.

Next step was a simple 4 point harness mounted to the rear 2 seat base bolts for the hip section. Remove and replace with eye bolts.

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Rear, shoulder straps attached to the rear seat belt bolts under the rear seat which is very easy to remove. Just cant show you pics because I have 3 baby seats in the back at present and it's a bitch to remove them, but you get the idea.

Great thing is the 4 point is versatile. Works with the stock seat belt too. No stuffing with air bags. Get a quick release one as pictured.

You can also just use the hip section 2, I.e. 2 point harness with the stock seat belt.

You need padding if you run the rear straps too. Cut into your neck a bit as this set up isn't ideal as a race seat.

Works very well for me though.

Hard to strap in first time. Make sure it's the last thing you do. I.e. trn off AC, traction control first etc as you cant reach anything in a harness on the dash.

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awesome, thanks for the info guys. I did some reading on the CG Lock this morning and just ordered a couple of them, so I'll see how they go at round 2 on December 4.

I think the basic seat structure in the XR6 and the F6 is the same, but fabric would be a lot grippier than the 'leather' in the F6. I'll see how the CG Lock goes, if it keeps my hips in place I think I'll be much better off. The harness install looks great and easy, just wondering how the scrutineers will judge it the seat bolt mount points, they seem to get more fussy at every event and the CAMS schedule only mentions seat belt points as acceptable (but doesn't say what isn't).

The NT01s were excellent but in the F6 I only have the Sport Maxx to compare them to. I've driven R888s before (a swift sport on the ring, and my E21 bimmer), and these aren't much different, definitely not as soft/squidgy feeling but I was running 36psi cold as I got a fricken screw through the front right just after I put them on, so I was nervous about the fresh puncture repair and didn't want too much tyre deformation.

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