Jump to content

dsheps83

Member
  • Posts

    19
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

0 Neutral

Recent Profile Visitors

923 profile views
  1. yeah would have been a good idea, but I already put it back together and been driving it around, thought I would update, antoehr thing to check for anyone else that comes across this issue after changing thier cam
  2. well just to update this I feel like a complete idiot at the moment, I thought well I have some vct sprockets here I'll just swap em out. well, when I took the rocker cover off and went to undo the cam sprocket bolt I noticed it wasn't tight, so I pulled the bolt out cleaned it put loctite and did it back up, went for a drive now its all good!!!!! I assume it wasn't tight enough to seal the oil passageway. as I left the car sitting for a long time I don't remember how I didn't have it done up, whether the cam kept turning the motor or I got distracted and never checked the tension I dunno. Thanks for the suggestions
  3. yeah there seems to be two different lengths that bolt on, I changed from one to the other changing the caps that they mount in. I did change the oil not sure if it was straight after or down the track a bit, is this going somewhere cos I do believe when I changed the oil the issue wasn't as bad, running penrite 10w-50 I think which made it slighty better. the reason why I changed the actuators was after cleaning them they still didn't move much and had another set from the motor I was getting the cams off, which moved a lot better Haven't done the hold the accelerator part might go do that now. And no codes display with the surging going on, I have an old ford flash that I can install the software on the laptop and take it for a spin, but if im not getting any codes I probably wouldn't see any issue even looking at the right sensors would I?
  4. the cams were stock cams from a later version of the BA, an 04 model as I have found out they have different vct actuators but everything looked like it lined up the same, as the car wasnt running properly before I did all this I cant say it was or wasnt this But to answer your question, No as I beleive the cams have the same profile
  5. had a few issues with this poor car, BA Straight 6 My latest is when its cold runs fine has heaps of power, once it gets to operating temp it isn't as powerful, and surges can be felt above 60kph. when I had cam issues is swapped out the cams and the cradle caps with the vct actuators from a slightly later model, which where a slightly different design. the surge happens every 5 to 6 seconds when cruising at highway speed. Could the vct from a later model be the cause? stil had the same oil holes? Have Checked Fuel pump - New fuel pressure regulator - Swapped coils - Swapped spark plugs with diaelectric grease - 5000km old knock sensor - Swapped crank angle sensor - Swapped cam angle sensors - Swapped throttle body (tps) - Swapped fuel filter - New fuel pump relay - Swapped injectors - Swapped 02 sensor - New None of these changes made a difference and the swapped items work fine on my other running car Except the fuel related items I was confident that it wasn't any of these as it runs perfect until it gets to its operating temp, somewhere around the 70c to 75c mark it starts the surge. when it gets out of warm up mode does the timing with the cams change?
  6. I recently did this, had to change the tcm from my olf zf to the turbo zf, I assume the turbo tcm looks for a turbo ecu. everything bolted up fine and worked correctly after swapping the tcm
  7. oops wrong link https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_HOsbDbzM33ZlZ2ekpVRlpoVUE/view?usp=sharing
  8. just to add to this again, if bot cam sensors are plugged in, and I unplug the vct solenoids the car also runs fine, wel like a dog, but doesnt stall atelast. thought may be it could be the vct playing up. I have another set may swap them out and see what happens, but I didnt se a huge jump in cam angle when monitoring it I had my car plugged unto the computer and the camshafts are readable. something screwing going on.
  9. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_HOsbDbzM33NHlPQ0VqMThZMjQ/view?usp=sharing tried getting a better video but my phone just doesnt seem to get how high and the sharpness of the sound
  10. well I have a bf mkii ghia. and I had issues with the cam and head so I got a head package , port and polish stage 3 cams, now the exhaust. have extractors to 4" cat back to twin exhaust. now I got a new center pipe without the muffler. when I rev it and accelerate I get this higher "raspy note" among the growl, kinda reminds me of a 4 banger turbo or something. now if I were to add two hotdogs to the center pipe would it get rid of that raspy note? https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_HOsbDbzM33amdCdXJyLTV5WDg/view?usp=sharing
  11. nah it got worse before I swapped the cams, I thought the sluggishness was to do with the lobes being worn down. if I reset the computer and have it plugged in, it runs fine for a bit then just starts stalling again. the computer must go back to a base tune then start learning again? about two months ago I washed the engine bay out with degreaser and garden hose, and it ran like crap for days,is there anywhere other than the coils that water might affect? I have another wiring harness, when I get my other car sorted, I will use the other harness and try and connect it as close as I can back into the computer incase the wiring is dodgy
  12. When I plug the drivers side cam sensor in it stalls out . Idles fine. Revs in neutral fine. Put some load like drive off or stall it up in gear and it stalls. Unplug the sensor and it droves fine just runs really rich. Cos it idle and revs fine in neutral I would think the wiring was ok?
  13. not a turbo but doesn't matter, I have a 2003 ba fairmont straight six car was getting really sluggish and sounded like it was struggling under load, also running very rich. and now has gotten that bad that when it struggles under load it stalls, taking off from a standing start fast or slow it would die around 1500rpm then just stalls, takes a bit to crank over to start again. I pulled the rocker cover off noticed the cam lobes had been worn down, had a second hand set so dropped them in. changed the o2 sensor, changed both cam angle sensors and changed crank angle sensor cleaned throttle body. swapped out spark plugs and coils. and now the oly way I can drive it is by unplugging the cam angle sensor ion the intake side but it doesnt run well at all. the errors I get when I scan it are p0340 which shows as camshaft position sensor "a" p1340 which doesnt show but a google search shows it maybe be camshaft sensor "b" but I replaced these with working ones of another car. could my computer be screwed? is there a way to test wether the wiring to the sensors is ok cheers for any replys
  14. I have a pretty much factory motor and I get the same things but mine is around 2000rpm, I took the pump out as I thought there was an issue. there was a fraction of sideways movement in the pump gears, I wonder if that's enough movement to get a vibration sound.
  15. I recently discovered a rattle in my engine aroud 1500 to 2500 rpm. as it turned out my cams were damaged, and aswell as the damage you can see in the pic they were sliding backwards and forwards, mind you it was only about 1.6mm(from memory) but I noticed the timing chain links looked like they werent straight as they went over cam sprockets, my car is an 07 bf MKII non turbo , 120,000k , oil changed often always used penrite https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_H...ew?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_H...ew?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_H...ew?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_H...ew?usp=sharing
×
  • Create New...
'