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  1. Thought it would be appropriate to thank the people most responsible for the successful completion of this project. * This bloke needs no introduction. Aaron aka JETURBO for all the engine and fabrication work. Words are not enough to express how grateful I am for the time and effort that Aaron put into this car. The result is something to behold. Thanks mate. * Paul @ PE Customs in Brisbane for the paint job which is perfection personified * Mike @ Mike Savage Custom Bonnets at Bargo in NSW. It’s a hybrid design we cooked up that actually works. It’s that heavy I had to get new bonnet struts to hold it up lol.
    3 points
  2. This thread is about my territory adventures so may as well do a consolidation post here. I bought another territory, 7 seater, cloth interior, non turbo 2009 model zf awd, 360xxxkm, lightning strike same as the turbo one, trans in limp home mode, clunks and bangs galore, busted tailgate, no oil showing on the dipstick, farked lifters, overheating, slightly missing, $1500. I probably paid too much for it but considering I can do all the work it ain't that bad. So far I've chucked a reco tailshaft in it, new rear shocks, new front diff bushes, new front wheel bearings, new front lower ball joints, front sway bar bushes and links, a second hand set of trans solenoids to fix the trans issue, an engine service, a trans service, fuel filter, thermostat, rocker cover gasket kit, external trans cooler, a front mount intercooler, 1500cc injectors, 255 fuel pump, drop in adjustable fuel reg, valve springs, anti pump up lifters, roller rockers, spark plugs, genuine coils, billet wheel gt3576 with flapper mod, stock dump and stock turbo territory exhaust, engine tune obviously, trans tune, a second hand tailgate to replace the trailer hit one, 4 tyres, brake pads all round and I reckon that's about it. No doubt I'll remember something else once I hit post. I've still got the rear sway bar bushes to install and also rear diff bushes. I'll get to that in 3 months when my arm is better. It started out at probably 130awkw as an na beast, probably went up to 145awkw with a tune and now is sitting at around 275awkw with the turbo stuff installed. Anyhow there is that, now people can read about it here instead of it being spread out through the forum.
    3 points
  3. Valve springs are going in, Plazmaman Pro
    3 points
  4. Bought it. Well, my wife did. I was still riding the porcelain bus.
    2 points
  5. morning all, happy Thursday 💡 happy to have got the gains... after winning the Grand Final by 1 solitary run
    2 points
  6. Quick update....the car still ran a little rough after the new battery...especially idle when cold, but has been like that for quite a while. It also had a very slight hesitation too. On the weekend, I changed both cam senors (Genuine), no burnt wiring on the exhaust side...but wrapped in shielding anyway. I also changed the MAP sensor(Genuine), and removed all injectors ( DEKA's) and gave them a good clean using the poor man method, battery and throttle body cleaner. I re-flashed the tune, started it up, and idled perfectly. Taken it for a few good drives, and I cannot believe how smooth it is. Hasn't been this smooth since I bought it. Feels like driving a new car, and all my power is back too. Spins the wheels at 80ks in third.....hasn't done that for a long long time. It's no longer running rich either. The injectors were pretty dirty with some slight carbon buildup. I noticed the drastic difference in the spray pattern as I cleaned them. Kinda reminded me of a dirty shower head with limescale. Anyway...car is running great.....finally.
    2 points
  7. Obviously, that is the first thing I tried. With modern elbows you can't just guess what the problem is, you have to plug in the scanner to see what codes they have.
    2 points
  8. Hi all First time post here, hopefully this one will be of interest. I was at a clearing auction in Country Vic and spotted 4 XR6 Turbo Crossover Manifolds in one lot. A close look left me in no doubt these were prototypes of some sort, and I ended up buying all 4 quite cheaply. When I picked these up after the auction ended the seller informed me these were indeed prototypes, rescued from a scrap bin by a guy in Ballarat who did a bit of work with Ford including helping out at Bathurst racing a Turbo Falcon in the production class. Here's what I believe to be the first prototype, note no fittings for PCV, BOV etc, different font and also the word "Intercooler" instead of "Intercooled" Also there is an indent in the top of the manifold for what surely must have been a Tickford badge. This is cast in. Here's what I think is the second version, with final font and spelling, but with a grafted in BOV fitting. Still has space for Tickford badge Version 3, more grafted in fittings including BOV, PCV, and a small fitting possibly for a boost gauge? Currently blocked off with pop rivet Final production version, with part number. Tickford badge now gone. I was thinking of bringing down to the Geelong All Ford day in Geelong this April if anyone was interested in having a look up close? I find these interesting but I'm a bit of a car nerd, what do you guys think? Cheers Kev
    1 point
  9. When I worked at a workshop, we would install a boost reference nipple into the front part of the exhaust to diagnose back pressure issues. If a car is making lots of boost and not much power, this is one of the first things to check.
    1 point
  10. 2.5 years you mean to reply to a thread no one was able to help with, which is why I took it in to a workshop.
    1 point
  11. Oh yeah that's right! I'd forgotten it was that bit!
    1 point
  12. Hey mate, I ended up taking it in to have it professionally looked over, they took two days to figure out the issue was, it wanst making any power 200rwkw so the tuner took off the back half and she picked up 111rwkw, ultimately was a blocked muffler. I had a few other things done and got the car back with 320rwkw.
    1 point
  13. Hey mate. I honestly can't remember exactly where the other hole was, but I remember just visually tracing how fuel flows through the module to identify any restrictions so I suspect it will be obvious once you are in there. Sold the car last Friday so I can't even have a look to confirm. I did also have to adjust the low slope a little to get LTFT spot on. As Puff says this is likely just due to aftermarket dump and cat so nothing unusual. Since the above, car behaved beautifully in the years following.
    1 point
  14. I'll take the blame turbo'ing every car that you buy should be mandatory
    1 point
  15. Indeed, I blame you lol. Car is much better now though, it's actually decent to drive.
    1 point
  16. Got it all finished a couple of hours ago, test drive successful and a new rocker cover gasket kit got rid of the spark plug hole leaks. As always when going from stock springs to beefy springs, the difference is night and day. It pulls hard to redline now and with decent springs and anti pump up lifters, there is no valve float whatsover. I'm gonna have to raise the rev limiter by 100rpm or so, cos it tagged it in auto mode on the 1>2 shift. Happy days
    1 point
  17. All the best with it mate! I anticipate you'll come back to an FG one day...
    1 point
  18. yeah, I'm not saying it's likely to happen, but it might, so budget for it then you won't be (as) disappointed if it happens.
    1 point
  19. If the motor is healthy and you are strapped for a budget, you should just go with the mods you have listed. Transmission rebuild again I'm not sure. Talk to your workshop and see if they are pointing you in the right direction or just wanting some extra cash. If you had more money, I'd get an FG XR6 turbo motor and drop that in or build a motor to much greater strength with aftermarket internals. Beauty of the barra motor is the bottom end is the same for all the series. I think the cylinder head changed designs slightly but someone can confirm. Main changes between these motors were pistons, camshafts and stronger rods from BF xr6 turbo onwards.
    1 point
  20. well, I hope you enjoy it as much if not more than the FG, I guess... would you bring it on a snowies cruise?
    1 point
  21. And don't forget a 460 will need upgraded wiring, I'm running a 320lph pump with stock wiring loom and fuel reg, 350 killer wasps, no probs. Will be going 460 in near future as I go for 400+ tune
    1 point
  22. That's one way of saying you're gonna buy a treadly
    1 point
  23. ready for some gains this evening, after a (hopefully) grand final win in my indoor cricket team tonight
    1 point
  24. For anyone that wants the Dark Argents Paint Code...for their bumber inserts on BF Typhoons or BF aggressor....the code is below...I had mine colour matched...and it's exact....😁 E2 2911 1000ml Mix E74 - 530.7 E10 - 278.7 E48 - 69.8 E36 - 53.8 E59 - 43.6 E61 - 18.3 E25 - 10.2 Take this code to Inspirations Paint, they'll mix it for you. Cheers.
    1 point
  25. yeah, it's a been a good day of sport watching and relaxing in the heat... going to the beach tomorrow because why not
    1 point
  26. aeropro do a plate and cooler. Would want to use AN8 lines and keep line run short. Derale make a thermostat block to help with warmup.
    1 point
  27. It's a good idea man. Not many people run them though. Falcons aren't meant to be tracked hard, especially not at 700kw. I was looking at a Setrab oil cooler, but haven't got around to it
    1 point
  28. Yeah it's dead easy to make the car idle higher. Only thing is it will want to push the car along so you'd be on the brakes a lot more often. Worth a try though.
    1 point
  29. Yep I had a 5 1/2 month break from drinking last year, I didn't feel noticeably better but I also didn't feel like sh*t either. Pretty sure I'm gonna stop again cos it doesn't fit in with my desired lifestyle. I only drink on weekends now, but even that is too much to fit in with working out and being productive etc.
    1 point
  30. no wonder why you're hungover I don't miss hangovers at all since I stopped drinking alcohol completely ~2016.
    1 point
  31. Makes sense though....even though it had enough power to start the engine, the sensors would have all been out of their voltage range, triggering limp mode. No wonder it threw 20 codes for just about everything. These are the codes that it threw...the complete list. PO21 Intake cam PO22 Cam not in position to crank PO124 TPS or PPS error PO172 System to rich PO221 Throttle Position Sensor PO223 Voltage output PPS or TPS to high PO224 PPS Sensor switch B PO351 Cylinder 1 Coil fault PO356 Ignition Coil F Circuit Malfunction PO1270 RPM Or Speed out of calibrated range PO2100 Throttle Actuator A Control Motor Circuit Out Of Range PO2105 Throttle Actuator Control System PO2110 Major Failure In Throttle Actuator PO2138 Throttle Position Sensor Or PPS Voltage Correlation Problem PO2139 TPS Or PPS Switch D And F Voltage Correlation Problem. I did have lots of starting issues and big voltage drops starting the car before this all happened.
    1 point
  32. I haven't forgotten again lol but I've been tied up most of the day and now it's dinner time and kids etc. Haha I will go out there and make some changes tomorrow morning and update then.
    1 point
  33. Fitting the actual intercooler itself is the same as a Falcon. There is some trimming of the inner crash bar, bending of the AC line, I used a rivnut gun to insert some threads for the top mounts and tec screwed some mounts into the lower rad support. I suppose I could rivnut the lower ones too but it was too hot and I cbf lol. FG upper piping fits to the hot side of the intercooler with an extra silicone and 90 degree bend while BA/BF piping fits on the cold side, with a slight change for the lower part of the piping as the terry cooler is flipped. I used the Raceport BOV as well, it needed a vacuum/boost source that I stole from the no longer used IMRC solenoid. It took me about 4 hours to remove the intercooler from the other car, find all the various bits of pipe and silicone, weld up a hole in one of the pipes, temporarily relocate the trans cooler and fark around removing the stock stuff and fitting it all to the car. I went for another drive and it has definitely made an improvement.
    1 point
  34. I haven't tried it yet, I forgot, I'll get onto it tomorrow.
    1 point
  35. I thought "There may also already be a product specifically for this application somewhere?" and found these https://aeroflowperformance.com/brake/brake-accessories/vacuum-pumps Then I found this for $147 BRAKE BOOSTER VACUUM PUMP FITS Expensive Daewoo Late model camira VE VF V6 V8 HOTROD GM 92227002
    1 point
  36. They put a vacuum canister in for my stage 5 crow cams...did the job and a very simple fix. Before that when the idle was low, pulling up to a car Infront of me was dangerous, braking suffered under the right conditions.
    1 point
  37. Did another log to work still in open loop decided to check fault codes again, now I have a pcm fault. Reset the pcm car went back to closed loop for about 1min and then went back to open loop again, fault code hasn't shown up yet. https://www.instagram.com/p/CTPsdDqBzCw/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
    1 point
  38. Yeah checked, for codes nothing significant, and have also checked the CHT and it's nominal at 90c. The open loop occurred only after changing to this new O2 sensor. The LTFT are adjusting and after a while, cruising at about 80kph it'll sit. Notice in the last pic the STFT had improved significant also. However the voltage on the 02 sensor still is showing to high voltage when the car is coasting or at idle which is when fuel trims go out the window and the car starts using more fuel again. Hopefully the FPR will get here by the weekend and I'll install it to see how it goes.
    1 point
  39. Did another log on the way home from work, https://www.instagram.com/p/CTO1Wqah5S1/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link Drove alot better than it has for a while fuel trip still continues to come down, its only when on idle it's having the issue. I heard that the factory fuel rail can rust over years internally and gunk up the fpr, hopefully it'll be that or the return will see this week. Only thing I noticed is the whole time it stayed in the open loop which I'd think is odd as open loop is the ecu not taking reading from the 02 correct?.
    1 point
  40. Update installed the new o2 sensor. Now it seems to be running better around town went for a drive and got the fuel trip down from 19 to 16. Where it still seems to run rich and cause issue, is idling.
    1 point
  41. Custom dyno tune. Intercooler and injectors. No wideband installed, rich as in using not pulling fuel out. Just went for a drive and monitored the 02v and it's stays at .90v and only when blipping the throttle it'll dip down and then return back to .88-90v should be around .45v stoich correct?
    1 point
  42. Yeah I got it tuned I have 3 different settings but since the issue, reverted it back to stock map.
    1 point
  43. Finally got around to sorting this. Pulled the fuel module out, as last time I'd had to reuse some fuel hose and wanted to have both lines using the proper flexi stuff. Drilled out the fuel return thing in the bottom of the cradle to 4mm But I also noticed that the return port in the cradle was blocked. Not sure if there is meant to be something there or not, but either way it wasn't passing any fluid. So drilled that out too. Before and after pics below. I now have positive fuel trims (remembering that I fudged my low slopes to tune around the issue temporarily) so think I have resolved the fuel pressure issue. I'll do a few km to make sure the trims continue like that, then flash the correct low slopes back on.
    1 point
  44. Unfortunately this issue continues to hang around, even though at times it looks a bit better. I built a tune that basically got rid of any lambda corrections, kept the car in open loop and targeted a flat 0.95 everywhere so I could see easily what was going on. Car could happily hold commanded lambda with a bit of load, but was very rich at idle. Made me suspicious of fuel pressure and also I think eliminated things like an erratic O2 sensor. Had some rose joints replaced in the rear yeaterday so got them to test my fuel pressure while they had it. Had been tested before (reported back as "ok") so asked for the actual value. Good news is that it was 65psi at idle - I think I've found the cause of my negative fuel trims. Reckon step 1 is to disconnect the return line under the car and point it at the mower petrol tin. If the fuel trims settle down while idling, I know I've got an issue somewhere between there and the tank. Hard lines all look good so reckon checking the pump module would come after that.
    1 point
  45. Theorectly it should make no difference but if there is a problem with earthing (remember we are dealing with less than 1 volt) it can't hurt
    1 point
  46. Thanks 4321, I'll check it out over the weekend! Why would running an earth from battery to engine change anything? Is there a known farthing issue with these cats? Cheers again for the help!
    1 point
  47. I can agree that the xr6 5speed auto is sh*t my car will clunk every time I go from p to r into d when cruising gears won't change properly and even when u punt it hard seem for it to take a few seconds before it starts to move I wish I went for the 6speed zf even my ba mk2 turbo 4speed trans goes better and harder then the 5speed
    1 point
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