Leaderboard

Hi all, it's been a while.. I couldn't get the VN ready in time for Rockynats, so I put some time in to the old girl and got her mobile again. As I had to pull the IRS to replace the outer diff support bushes, I decided to finally assemble the Try Trac that has been sitting in the shed for the past 4 years. While I was at it, I put a new set of Dana gears, so that I didn't have to cannibalise the centre that was being removed. Having missed all previous Rocky Nats due to work, I decided that I was not going to miss another. I have a great time, met many wonderful people and checked out some really cool rides. I didn't take any pics of the car, but I found some on the Nat page that I have shared below. I have also included a current pic of the bay. It has changed somewhat and looks a lot neater. The car was running really crappy, which is why I haven't really been interested in it. My tuna (Joke) installed the latest firmware update and utilised the new manifold pressure predication vs fuel table, car now runs like factory, no more hunting at idle, or stalling. For the first time in a while, I can honestly say that I really enjoy driving the car again. I have also started to make some carbon parts again, although it has been somewhat of a learning curve. I am currently toying with a new rocker garnish to suit the FG rocker cover (1st attempt failed due to air leak in the bagging, so I laid up a new one in the mould tonight) and will soon start on a modified version of the radiator sight cover. I will also have to find some time to remove the dash, as the dreaded mixer shaft failure has finally eventuated. FML Until next time... 🍺

Righto I did my thing and here's an update. I did a comp test and one of the cylinders was low with others being out of spec too. Turns out the head was leaking like a mofo out of the exhaust valves...so I rebuilt the engine. I used stock turbo pistons, Spool I beam rods, upgraded piston pins, Cometic 3 layer MLS, ARP head studs with OS washers, new hx bearings with 360 thrust, inconel high pressure oil pump spring with adjustable relief, oil pump gears and backing plate, Ross balancer, Plazmaman intake and maybe more I forgot. I got hectic with the valve grinding paste and the head is passable. I relocated my trans cooler under the car and wired in the fan with a relay and a switch. I painted the rocker cover with Black Velvet Cerakote, it was sh*t before and now is a bit less sh*t. Haha I still gotta fit the catch can, I'll do that later I suppose. I've had a successful test drive or 3 today, no leaks etc so happy days. It still runs the same boost, it makes 300awkw on about 14.7psi. This should tide me over until I can afford to rebuilt the actual turbo territory. The only thing I really want to do with it now is to have electronic boost control, the na pcm doesn't have that so I'm in the gutter using a boost tee. Here's a pic, hard to believe I did it all in the span of 1 week, in the driveway, while still having family commitments.

Thought it would be appropriate to thank the people most responsible for the successful completion of this project. * This bloke needs no introduction. Aaron aka JETURBO for all the engine and fabrication work. Words are not enough to express how grateful I am for the time and effort that Aaron put into this car. The result is something to behold. Thanks mate. * Paul @ PE Customs in Brisbane for the paint job which is perfection personified * Mike @ Mike Savage Custom Bonnets at Bargo in NSW. It’s a hybrid design we cooked up that actually works. It’s that heavy I had to get new bonnet struts to hold it up lol.

The cam timing is more retarded at idle and cruise by about 10 degrees which makes it quieter.

I dont think you can call it Na anymore. Its got more fruit than a turbo terry since you've been hard at work

Cheers, this is my cart... add hose, rad zip ties and gulf western atf, filter and gasket and I think im sorted. https://imgur.com/ZB15x18

I've increased the boost on the na+t territory and it makes a bit over 300awkw and 600nm on 15psi. As a result the trans needed an update to the tune, which I did this morning. Once again the shifts are quick and crisp and you wouldn't know it's an na trans in there. I think this is where I'll stop the increase in power, it is a na engine after all. When the time is right I'll do some minor engine work to it so it can handle all the boost, but for now it will do.

safe as houses

Seen this today

I'm exactly the same as you. I'm just going through the process of tidying my engine bay. Nexus R5 and new wiring loom etc...

So yeah nothing much exciting going on really, I fixed a wiring issue on the territory today that prevented being able to manually shift gears. Now I can stall it up in 2nd gear, 3500rpm, full boost which is around 16psi and let it rip. It goes ok but it's probably just as quick using first gear. Nothing a bit more power wouldn't fix though

Yes. NOS = New old stock. I have lots of parts. Bezels, inserts, undertrays, grill mount and top sections... I also collected a lot of other BA/BF parts- NOS dash pad, door rubbers, weather strips, headlights, boot lids, quarter panels etc. The way I see it, is if you want to drive it. you have to be able to fix it... BA/BF will be like all other cars. parts will very soon be hard to get and buyers will be forced to pay a premium to restore/repair their cars.. After all, my car is almost 20 years old. 10 years to go before it can be placed on club rego...

morning all, happy Saturday 📨

I've found "quilton" does the job no finger-through-the-paper problems haha morning all, happy Friday 📧

clearly the latter... only certain brands are acceptable and don't rip as soon as you go to grab a couple of squares

In other news the missus bought a different brand of tp recently. Do they actually test how strong the paper is or do they just cut down a tree, mush it up and call it good?

Super tidy engine bay. Love it

Yep mine has already been pre hammered. Here's a tip for making the car quieter, use an fgx sprint cam timing map and it'll be all kinds of quiet.

My first exhaust revision on my turbo terry was a decat and mid muffler remove, so it was just 3inch with the rear muffler. I hated it, only time it was acceptable was on load. annoyed me for cruse especially since being a family car. I fitted a fg turbo manifold and a 4inch xforce dump. I had to cut and reweld the bottom piece of the dump, I feel as it was touching something or pointing the wrong way I wanted. I cant remember now it was many years ago. But it goes into a 5inch cat, then 3.5inch pipe to a hot dog and still the standard 3inch rear as ive been to lazy to make one. but its on my list, but in current form it sounds good on noise and pretty close to stock on cruse.

I put a built trans into the na territory today. Holy sh*t it's a night and day difference!

and the motorbike I had to sell (hence buying myself a 'nice' car) due to personal tragedy. and finally the pos VW boring as hell econobox diesel that's about as exciting as a fridge without an ice maker.

I'm an Atheist haha so you can put the hail-mary's approximately here

swap the plastic connectors around, just push in the sides inside the holes and pull the connector off. Unclip the ear nose clamps, holding the existing hoses on and replace with an L shaped hose by Gates, Part number is 02-0025

Unsure what the coolant ID size is (19mm maybe)? I'd just use copper pipe as it's easily flared and bent but that's me. Pretty sure they sell a pipe to connect them and fits to the old mounting locations but unsure of the name...

Yeah man, 80/20 is the bare minimum for us too. Hopefully we get fibre over the next 10 years or less.

I have HFC here with FttN NBN. Had 100/40 for ages with a cheap ISP and it was a barely okay sort of service. Upgraded that to a more internet focused service provider more recently to 250/20 and it's a lot better.

I read the replies on the thread early on boys but didn't get a chance to reply until now. With the battery tray, because of the way ANTZ have the tray propped up just by one support in the centre and also because the metal tray can be flexed, the battery can be rocked with pressure forward and back. I worked out the easiest fix is to drill 2 bolt holes into the tray and make a support and drill that into the engine bay metal (small screws). Should work a charm. Just have to get a flat bar of metal and I should be set!

There's a huge list of "pros" like you've listed for the country-living, but a huge list of "cons" as well, same as for living nearer to the city... I'll weigh it all up and spend heaps of money either way haha.

You want to have it within an adaptation range so it can adjust the pressures if necessary. There are multiple types of adaptation and subsequently various temp ranges for them. Slipping adaptation starts at 70C, so it would be wise to wait until then before giving it the berries. To make things interesting there is a 3C hysteresis on the trans temp, so maybe wait until 73C lol.

Maybe I should have said "waste of time in a street car in Canberra". Mine turned on once in 6 years I reckon and even then the transmission was well within its safe range. The manual override was a more useful option - I used to flick that on when the trans was warmed up and I was working it hard.

Sure sounds like it.

nice work on squeezing that in for ACDT morning all, happy Friday 🔖

I've got something planned, I'll update when it's done.

I had to do mine recently. all the bottom ones were basically hand tight. I think its been about 40, 000 since I installed it. I had normal studs and norlock washers. but I dont think there verry good when the glue melts? anyway might have to buy something for it if it loosens again

I guess it might have to be another stock injector. Well I'm pretty positive it's the injector. I put new plugs in and gapped them to .7 still ran the same, swapped coils with cylinder 1 was still the same. Very noticeable on the graph when reving, holding 2000rpm levels out but some exaust popping, taking my foot off the throttle after holding revs the graph on number 5 goes crazy unless I got a bad plug ? Double checked fuel pressure and it's 4bar with out vacum connected. It's not picking up any codes except p0420 and that's cause my cats been taken out

gotta love an easy fix

I downloaded South Park, the fractured but whole, on the ps5. Apparently pressing the fart button repeatedly annoys the missus.

Hi guys, I'm installing a walbro 460 intank pump and I know I need to drill the return line out to 4.5mm. Is this the right one? Can anyone explain what the center one is for as it's blocked? Thanks,

Great job! I will have some pics of my fgx adventures soon, efr 9174, artec high mount, farmer made custom 4 inch dump etc.

Hey, probably not easily, unless you had a network log running while you did it. morning all, happy Good Friday (for those that follow that, otherwise just Friday) 📜

The lad has his 12th birthday today and he wants steak. Haha I taught him well

I would send noods but I don't think there is enough data on the internet to support the file size required for my magnum dong

THE END

what does the hot water do and if it’s stops the rough idling then how and what’s causing it I’ve changed coils,plugs,02sensor,I had only put on new keyless pads with keys and did it fords way press rear demister button for three times and when door locks open press each button on each pad so you know they are setup correctly First drive after doing these my car has been idling fine when cold as soon as it’s upto normal driving temperature the car idles very roughly when I put it into neutral it’s okay WHAT IS CAUSING THIS NIGHTMARE OF AN ISSUE SURELY MY CAMSHAFT HASNT GOT THIS LUMPY GRIND IT WOULD HAVE DONE IT PRIOR TO THIS IVE HAD CAR SEVEN YEARS NOW ONLY 112,300klms very good condition

take the front bumper off and move the headlight if you're having trouble.

Another pump question. BF xr6t - flash tuned and flowed injectors only (stock pump). After sitting for a couple of hours when starting you need to hold the key on for a few seconds before starting. Strait starting results in pre-ignition or backfire (which blows the PCV hose off). 1: Is this likley to be caused by fuel pressure dissipating when shut down? 2: If yes, are there a few likely causes. I can buy a guage and test but if there are other ways to diagnose the prob with my eyes, or if there is a common fault peeps know about I can save the money. Thanks in advance

for 320rwkw, a GSS340 is plenty for an in-pod pickup pump and provides the pickup abilities for surge-tank setups if you go that way for more power in the future.

You need this

is this part of the fuel tank setup? I was under the impression you needed to drill out the return hole in the fuel pressure regulator itself, or purchase the bolt in GFB one when installing high flow pumps.

no worries